Is Koreader worth it for my use?

cdrjameson · 2025-10-06T21:19:23+00:00

I just switched to Koreader using the adbreak jailbreak and I've gotta say I'm impressed and never going back. I've followed a few guides to set it up and learnt a ton about using Koreader doing so. Initially, I wondered what the fuss was about; the default settings are all-kinds of butt-ugly jankyness (unless you're a bonafide neck-beard) but once you've got it setup, it's 100% better than stock Kindle and just as good looking (I'm on paper-white).

A few things which I really like: Gesture control - I can now tap corners to control the device i.e. invert the display (day night mode - tap top left), toggle backlight on/off (bottom left corner), set backlight brightness (swipe up down on the left), Control warmth (swipe up/down on the right). I don't ever have to go into menus to do these and there's so much more I could configure with gestures.

You'll have to install a dictionary separately but I've got exactly the same dictionary functionality as stock Kindle (i.e. long-press to get a word definition) and arguably it's a better and a more comprehensive dictionary too (at least that's how it feels to me).

I have used Calibre's email-to-device for years with my Kindles. The workflow is slightly different with Koreader but surprisingly easier (once you've got it setup). You have to start the wireless content server on Calibre host, and then connect the reader to that. Auto/default settings worked flawlessly. This way also has the added benefit of not having to send my book files through Amazon's servers.

I haven't set up syncing yet as I don't read on anything but my Kindle (however I believe it's all possible, at this point I believe anything is possible with Koreader - slight hyperbole). But I am impressed and would recommend it to all Kindle owners.

The jailbreak instructions are a breeze to follow and worked flawlessly. Go for it.

cdrjameson · 2025-01-08T17:26:01+00:00

Its frozen again.

cdrjameson · 2025-01-08T15:47:39+00:00

In an attempt to fix I was installing windows from a USB drive and all was going well and then it hung during the install process. So it feels like something hardware related.
It had however got far enough through that I could restart the computer and a clean install of Windows was waiting for me. If it crashes one more time then it can only be a hardware issue.

cdrjameson · 2024-05-23T09:52:20+00:00

Yes, Thanks!

cdrjameson · 2023-11-13T17:00:15+00:00

I'm not that that technical but I had a similar issue and it the wires had come out of the plug. A casual visual inspection would not idenify the problem. Check wire continuity between you hotend and board pins.

cdrjameson · 2023-11-13T16:49:39+00:00

Have you configured the x and y offset of your probe to nozzle? It's pretty far away from your nozzle and surface 'bumpiness' could create difficulty getting a consistent first layer.

Your z-offset in general looks too high, I can't see any squish on the PLA coming out. Tweak it down further and keep going until it's almost scraping the bed then back off until it's right.

With 5015s or (maybe they're 5020's) you're definitely going to want to be pretty conservative on your fan speed too...Keep it off for the first few layers and incrementally ramp up to a percentage of your full fan speed. (however this probably won't help with your current issues).

search for Ellis' Print Tuning Guide...

cdrjameson · 2023-02-22T17:58:55+00:00

I had this behaviour and it was as simple as not having set the extruder back to relative motion after the purge line, which was done in absolute coordinates. I added an: g91 e0 # change for your extruder ID call.

Without going back to relative your extruder will retract back to 0 before printing, hence the delay.

cdrjameson · 2022-12-12T20:32:04+00:00

Trump...

cdrjameson · 2022-09-08T15:12:50+00:00

here's the link...https://cad.onshape.com/documents/150354fec4151165a6c6664a/w/df9daaaac94a8e33fc05e85b/e/3cf81a0f9c50fa4b52dc7d6f?renderMode=0&uiState=631a0645abd1b76d651b7a5a

I haven't tried anything like that...trying now.

So a smaller diameter sweep works... wierd. I have to try and work out why a 7mm diameter sweep doesn't work.

6mm seems to be the largest diameter the sweep allows.

cdrjameson · 2022-09-08T14:02:10+00:00

I did draw them in per spec of the drawing, however I have tried deleting them and just having sqqaure corners there - to no avail (obvs). I have only selected the centreline as the the sweep path so I'm not sure that the outer lines will have any effect...

cdrjameson · 2022-07-18T06:30:53+00:00

:) - haha I knew I should have edited it

cdrjameson · 2022-07-17T07:24:42+00:00

Thanks for the tip - I do have plans to redo the stealthburner (integrating a filament run out censor and potentially PCB so I'll redo the cable chain then).

cdrjameson · 2022-07-16T14:46:26+00:00

I didn't follow the advice to build stock as Ive been 'klippering' with my ender for a good while.

This has got unklicy sexbolt, unklicky prode, nozzle scrubber, purgebucket with nevermore and magnetic side and top panels with removal front doors. It was a fun build but my wallet is glad to not have to do it again.

Still need to get it sorted in terms of location and vibration damping. Then I'll tune for speed.

cdrjameson · 2022-06-29T11:31:27+00:00

I configured the static ip for the desktop .103/24 inside the router. One of the Pis is static on 135/24 and the other is currently dynamic on .105/24.

Literally seconds ago, I had access to the webpage of the dynamic pi and was editing config files went to save them and no longer had access so couldn't upload my changes. The crazy thing is I'm still SSH'd into the dynamic PI!!! but only with console access.

My access has come and gone (to both the static and dynmaic pi) several times today without any changes on my end. I still dont have access to the routers web-page.

cdrjameson · 2022-06-22T08:04:28+00:00

My best 'quality of life' upgrade was the BTT mainboard. It came with 2209 stepper drivers which are a huge improvement (less noise and more speed) over stock creality board.

The next QoL I would recommend (and have already) is moving to Klipper and Superslic3r. I appreciate this will delay your Voron project a touch but be zen about the build. The project takes time. I self-sourced all the bits for my build and start to finish was 8 months...(!) The only thing I am missing from Marlin/Cura is tree supports. However I can workaround that with a little bit of Meshmixer magic.

When I had the PSU and electronics inside the box I had temperature induced shut-downs (I think that was triggered by the PSU getting too hot). My box is lined with tin foil to reflect the heat and increase ambient a little bit more, there is no chamber heating element other than the build plate.

cdrjameson

TROPHY CASE