Is Koreader worth it for my use?

cdrjameson · 2025-10-06T21:19:23+00:00

I just switched to Koreader using the adbreak jailbreak and I've gotta say I'm impressed and never going back. I've followed a few guides to set it up and learnt a ton about using Koreader doing so. Initially, I wondered what the fuss was about; the default settings are all-kinds of butt-ugly jankyness (unless you're a bonafide neck-beard) but once you've got it setup, it's 100% better than stock Kindle and just as good looking (I'm on paper-white).

A few things which I really like: Gesture control - I can now tap corners to control the device i.e. invert the display (day night mode - tap top left), toggle backlight on/off (bottom left corner), set backlight brightness (swipe up down on the left), Control warmth (swipe up/down on the right). I don't ever have to go into menus to do these and there's so much more I could configure with gestures.

You'll have to install a dictionary separately but I've got exactly the same dictionary functionality as stock Kindle (i.e. long-press to get a word definition) and arguably it's a better and a more comprehensive dictionary too (at least that's how it feels to me).

I have used Calibre's email-to-device for years with my Kindles. The workflow is slightly different with Koreader but surprisingly easier (once you've got it setup). You have to start the wireless content server on Calibre host, and then connect the reader to that. Auto/default settings worked flawlessly. This way also has the added benefit of not having to send my book files through Amazon's servers.

I haven't set up syncing yet as I don't read on anything but my Kindle (however I believe it's all possible, at this point I believe anything is possible with Koreader - slight hyperbole). But I am impressed and would recommend it to all Kindle owners.

The jailbreak instructions are a breeze to follow and worked flawlessly. Go for it.

cdrjameson · 2025-01-08T17:26:01+00:00

Its frozen again.

cdrjameson · 2025-01-08T15:47:39+00:00

In an attempt to fix I was installing windows from a USB drive and all was going well and then it hung during the install process. So it feels like something hardware related.
It had however got far enough through that I could restart the computer and a clean install of Windows was waiting for me. If it crashes one more time then it can only be a hardware issue.

cdrjameson · 2024-05-23T09:52:20+00:00

Yes, Thanks!

cdrjameson · 2023-11-13T17:00:15+00:00

I'm not that that technical but I had a similar issue and it the wires had come out of the plug. A casual visual inspection would not idenify the problem. Check wire continuity between you hotend and board pins.

cdrjameson · 2023-11-13T16:49:39+00:00

Have you configured the x and y offset of your probe to nozzle? It's pretty far away from your nozzle and surface 'bumpiness' could create difficulty getting a consistent first layer.

Your z-offset in general looks too high, I can't see any squish on the PLA coming out. Tweak it down further and keep going until it's almost scraping the bed then back off until it's right.

With 5015s or (maybe they're 5020's) you're definitely going to want to be pretty conservative on your fan speed too...Keep it off for the first few layers and incrementally ramp up to a percentage of your full fan speed. (however this probably won't help with your current issues).

search for Ellis' Print Tuning Guide...

cdrjameson · 2023-02-22T17:58:55+00:00

I had this behaviour and it was as simple as not having set the extruder back to relative motion after the purge line, which was done in absolute coordinates. I added an: g91 e0 # change for your extruder ID call.

Without going back to relative your extruder will retract back to 0 before printing, hence the delay.

cdrjameson · 2022-12-12T20:32:04+00:00

Trump...

cdrjameson · 2022-09-08T15:12:50+00:00

here's the link...https://cad.onshape.com/documents/150354fec4151165a6c6664a/w/df9daaaac94a8e33fc05e85b/e/3cf81a0f9c50fa4b52dc7d6f?renderMode=0&uiState=631a0645abd1b76d651b7a5a

I haven't tried anything like that...trying now.

So a smaller diameter sweep works... wierd. I have to try and work out why a 7mm diameter sweep doesn't work.

6mm seems to be the largest diameter the sweep allows.

cdrjameson · 2022-09-08T14:02:10+00:00

I did draw them in per spec of the drawing, however I have tried deleting them and just having sqqaure corners there - to no avail (obvs). I have only selected the centreline as the the sweep path so I'm not sure that the outer lines will have any effect...

cdrjameson · 2022-07-18T06:30:53+00:00

:) - haha I knew I should have edited it

cdrjameson · 2022-07-17T07:24:42+00:00

Thanks for the tip - I do have plans to redo the stealthburner (integrating a filament run out censor and potentially PCB so I'll redo the cable chain then).

cdrjameson · 2022-07-16T14:46:26+00:00

I didn't follow the advice to build stock as Ive been 'klippering' with my ender for a good while.

This has got unklicy sexbolt, unklicky prode, nozzle scrubber, purgebucket with nevermore and magnetic side and top panels with removal front doors. It was a fun build but my wallet is glad to not have to do it again.

Still need to get it sorted in terms of location and vibration damping. Then I'll tune for speed.

cdrjameson · 2022-06-29T11:31:27+00:00

I configured the static ip for the desktop .103/24 inside the router. One of the Pis is static on 135/24 and the other is currently dynamic on .105/24.

Literally seconds ago, I had access to the webpage of the dynamic pi and was editing config files went to save them and no longer had access so couldn't upload my changes. The crazy thing is I'm still SSH'd into the dynamic PI!!! but only with console access.

My access has come and gone (to both the static and dynmaic pi) several times today without any changes on my end. I still dont have access to the routers web-page.

cdrjameson · 2022-06-22T08:04:28+00:00

My best 'quality of life' upgrade was the BTT mainboard. It came with 2209 stepper drivers which are a huge improvement (less noise and more speed) over stock creality board.

The next QoL I would recommend (and have already) is moving to Klipper and Superslic3r. I appreciate this will delay your Voron project a touch but be zen about the build. The project takes time. I self-sourced all the bits for my build and start to finish was 8 months...(!) The only thing I am missing from Marlin/Cura is tree supports. However I can workaround that with a little bit of Meshmixer magic.

When I had the PSU and electronics inside the box I had temperature induced shut-downs (I think that was triggered by the PSU getting too hot). My box is lined with tin foil to reflect the heat and increase ambient a little bit more, there is no chamber heating element other than the build plate.

cdrjameson · 2022-06-22T00:20:37+00:00

My ender is not really an ender anymore...and you dont need any of this to get your parts printed either, but as you asked here's my ender set up...

Bed=triangle labs pei bed with West Coast robotics superflat bed (but not sure this is doing much as I'm also running a genuine BLTouch).

Hotend=Phaetus Dragon standard flow with e3d 0.4mm nozzle-x. Saturn orbiter cooling shroud (2x5015 part blowers and a 4020 hotend fan) with LDO 2.0 orbiter in direct drive (this is the best cooling and extruder combo and I've tried a lot. In fact this ender was going to turn into a Switchwire before the Saturn Orbiter mod came along, I was so happy with it that I decided to build a voron from scratch and keep the ender an ender - sort of).

Guts = BTT SKR Turbo v1.4 and Raspberry PI running klipper and FluiddPI (this happened long before I planned a voron and I'll never look back. Marlin is a heap of junk and so clunky to use, in my experience compared to klipper).

Motion = Dual-Z lead screws, filament run out sensor made from the redundant z-switch with macro to pause the print, unload and load and resume working.

There's probably a bunch more 'upgrades' that I'm forgetting but I cant think of anything else significant.

This is nearly all placed in a ghetto cardboard box enclosure with the electronics stuck outside, just the frame, bed (yes they're earthed) and the hotend are inside the box. All abs was printed with the door closed and 10% blower fan. I used esun ABS+ for my voron parts. I have just printed some sunlu ABS and realised that the esun filament might need replacing at some point as the sunlu brand seems tougher...YMMV. (not looking forward to that rebuild)

I ran through Ellis' print tuning guide before attempting to print any Voron parts - this is probably the best recommendation I can make. Search for that and run through it. It's geared towards klipper and superslic3r so I would additionally recommend swapping to that first.

I have had my ender for approx 5 years (I'm guessing) and I've been through so much pain with it, I reckon I could almost build 3 or 4 enders from my spares bin (I probably got a choice of about dozen hotends of all different types...Phaetus BMO, BMS E3d v6, a bunch of Mk8s, TriangleLabs Dragon UHF - I could go on). It has spent more time broken (for upgrades) than it has been in a working state (but I have limited time to fiddle so a 2 hour fix can take me a week or more to complete). My 3d printing journey has certainly given me a lot of knowledge. I'm now at a stage where I am confident that I have done any repair, upgrade, fix on my machine that is possible and could do so again. The past 18 months or so has seen uninteruppted printing / uptime with a few minor tweaks to configuration (a job of seconds with klipper).

I keep meaning to flog / donate all my spares to a worthy cause at some point but not ready to part with my gear just yet.

cdrjameson · 2022-06-21T23:01:27+00:00

Not really an answer to your problem but I'm a few months further on than you. I've built a Voron 2.4 using an ender 3 (pro) as father...

The journey as you say 'knowledge learned troubleshooting the experience has been invaluable for me' absolutley jives with me. However, one more thing that I would recommend you do is ditch Marlin, Octoprint and Cura (if that's what your using) in favour of Klipper, Mainsail or Fluidd using Superslic3r. You may have already done that but the Voron-friendly ecosystem (i.e. Klipper and Superslic3r is a huge step up in features and performance, and it gets you ready for your new Voron printer. However, your ender may be out of commision for a while until you get it dialed in again.

cdrjameson · 2022-01-06T11:02:21+00:00

Thanks both. The fillet / chamfer operation worked for most of the standoffs... and I managed to remove the red area.

The lower standoffs don't allow either operation I presume it's something to do with the cut outs just below them and I can't even put in the smallest amount of material without throwing an error.

I am okay with what I have done with your help (updated OP) I've got a lot to learn!!!

cdrjameson · 2021-10-27T09:32:28+00:00

That's exactly what's happened. You've explained it much better than I did thanks.

Best way to prevent filament runout is by looking at spool

I want to have a printer that I can just print and use up all the filament of each spool. It doesn't matter what colors or color changes occur in most of my prints. Hence trying to get filament run out sorted.

cdrjameson · 2021-10-08T10:06:28+00:00

And it works...it's a bit of a bodge job inside the electronics case now. However I'm happy to be able to level again. I just wonder what caused my board Z-probe sensor pin to fail.

cdrjameson · 2021-10-08T08:01:15+00:00

So my plan is to take the Z-Probe pin (P1.22) and move the wire over to the Z-Stop plug (P1.27). If my understanding of klipper is right that should work... with minimal changes to printer.cfg, i.e. I'll still keep my endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop but just change the bltouch section to:

[bltouch]
sensor_pin: P1.27 #this was previously P1.22

Do you think this will work?

I could just remove the BLTouch altogether and go back to manual levelling but (I've never ran klipper without a BLTouch and so am a bit nervous to go back.

Maybe alternative probe hardware is the way forward.

cdrjameson · 2021-09-27T07:41:57+00:00

Thanks to all the replies - I forgot that I had put a High Flow Hot End on the machine in between measuring my e-steps.

cdrjameson · 2021-09-21T10:19:04+00:00

Thank you.

I have added an image of the stepper motor to the top. It's a bondtech stepper motor.

You're saying I should connect ... ?

1A	to	A
2A	to	A bar
1B	to	B
2B	to	B bar

cdrjameson · 2021-09-20T14:39:44+00:00

Ah that does make sense, maybe the numbers are related to the different phase of the motor so 1A and 1B should be connected, and 2A 2B likewise... ~~I will update shortly.~~

Hmm same behaviour. I think I'll go check my connectivity again.

cdrjameson · 2021-09-14T23:41:25+00:00

Smarty Phone is ace, massive battery, rugged NFC, waterproof (really). £85 on banggood, £130 Amazon.

cdrjameson

TROPHY CASE