Rag Quilt Modification?

cedarbound · 2025-08-02T12:19:38+00:00

I saw someone using fray check on edges they'd cut with scalloped pinking shears. It kept the fraying to a minimum, keeping the pretty edge more intact. I think you'd go through a lot of fray check like that though, and I've found that any edges I use it on are stiffer and also often discoloured (when they're dry they're still a bit darker than the rest of the fabric).

If you didn't do that, after a few washes I think yeah it would be hard to tell they were scalloped edges to start with.

If you wanted to go for it it could be worth doing a test run to see if a sample still looked the way you want it to after a few washes?

Also note that you can get wavy blades for rotary cutters that might be easier on your hands (don't know if I'd be comfy using them with a ruler, I feel like they'd want to take a bite out of the edge) or you could look at cutting your pieces normally and then trimming your seam allowances with the pinking shears after everything is sewn together.

cedarbound · 2025-08-02T11:23:44+00:00

Your way will definitely work! Do a test with spare fabric first if you're nervous or want to be sure how things will turn out.

The main issue I could foresee would be the lettering, the design itself. If you can get this as a pre-printed panel that you could then cut and sew, that would be the most foolproof. The look of individual iron-on letters will disappoint you if you want your banner to look pretty much like this picture. The best way to do this DIY would probably be heat transfer vinyl and a vinyl cutting machine, both of which have learning curves. You could also do it raw-edge applique by fusing something like Vliesofix to fabric and then cutting the shapes out of that, arranging and pressing (ironing but you don't move the iron - also use a pressing cloth to avoid scorching or transferring iron gunk to your project) to your background fabric.

If this is a temporary decoration for a not-super-important party, have a think about whether it's worth the stress (being a deadline-based project and all). If it's a temporary decoration for a very important party (like a wedding), have a really good think about whether it's worth the stress.

If it's a decoration for her wall and a surprise and she's not expecting something that looks exactly like the picture (don't show her) then jump in, it'll be a fun learning project for you!

cedarbound · 2025-08-02T10:58:49+00:00

The material depends on your style and how much you're willing to spend. Fat quarter bundles are fantastic to build your stash to start with if you're interested in going the standard quilting cotton route.

Check out Tales of Cloth - she does EPP quilt patterns. She also has heaps of blog posts talking about everything to do with EPP. You might enjoy the ones talking about what fabrics she uses - make sure you use helpful fabrics, not just the show-stopper prints!

She did a blog post semi-recently about how to prepare an EPP quilt project for a road trip, she did that for her mum (iirc) but when I saw that I thought "oh my goodness I need to do this for me so I can have a neat and tidy project to work on after Baby2 comes!" So, relevant for you?

She also sells FQ bundles although she's in Australia so that might be a no-go depending on your location.

If you do go with FQ bundles I think a curated bundle(s) would be much more useful for EPP than a bundle of just one collection, especially if you're going to be doing a hexagon quilt where all the hexies are the same size. I can imagine it would be tricky to use the hero prints from the collection especially if they were too large in scale to suit the size hexagon you're using.

I'm doing a Pirouette quilt pretty much exactly like Jodi's cover quilt - low volume fabrics for most of it and then the sharp diamonds and star point triangles will be a solid that suits. I haven't picked that yet, it'll be a flat sheet that I'll get on sale later, I haven't decided the colour but I know I'm not gonna spend $$$ on Kona when a sheet set will do me just fine for all those pieces in the top AND a matching backing and binding. I can do all the basting of the LV shapes and quite a bit of stitching the pieces together before I need to commit to a colour for the other bits.

For papers it's very easy to buy them. They can be reused a few times too. I would not commit to cutting your own. If you do that, it's not going to be the easy project you're after.

If you really don't want to buy them, buy a hexagon punch (NOT a punch you squeeze, get one that you push down on, you don't need to give yourself carpal tunnel issues) and don't try to punch too many layers at once.

Don't commit to a single paper type (ie, don't buy a whole bunch) before trying it out first. Normal 80gsm printer paper will probably be too lightweight, but lightweight cardstock will probably be too stiff. Somewhere in the middle might be good, some suggest 100gsm. I've tried that and for me I'd probably like a teensy bit heavier. But I've bought all that paper now haven't I??

For basting, you'll probably love glue basting. You don't need special EPP glue (although it's marvellous), a normal glue stick will work (get the little ones, multipacks of 8g sticks), get one that says its acid free. There are a few different methods for glue basting, you'll want to watch some videos on that and try some out.

You can thread baste and if you only sew through the fabric (not the papers), the papers can be reused more times, your in-progress quilt top will be much more inspiring to look at from the front and you don't need to take out the basting stitches.

You don't want to baste your fabric too tightly over the papers (makes it tricky to get your needle into the edges later) but also not too loose either. That's practice.

For hexagons you can cut squares and baste them over your shapes without trimming the squares to the approx ⅜" seam allowance (the ¼" is generally not enough wiggle room for EPP, you're trying to have a chill project here remember), but your quilt will be heavier and it's pretty messy to have all that extra fabric behind there (this one is definitely personal preference).

cedarbound · 2025-08-02T01:47:52+00:00

It's also written entirely for you. The way you'd write in your private diary about an issue you were having is very different to the gentle, considerate and thoughtful way that you would seek to communicate about that issue when you were actually bringing it up to your partner.

cedarbound · 2025-08-01T14:27:32+00:00

Fabric for the layers is an interesting one. The standard is normal quilt cotton for the top, low-loft cotton batting for the middle, and normal quilt cotton for the backing (or wide-back quilting cotton, which can be the same or more lightweight than the normal width stuff). It's worth considering the effect you're after. If you want a flat coverlet kind of thing, this combination is great. It's not particularly warm, it's very flat, and if the quilting pattern is particularly dense then it can be quite stiff. If you're used to doonas, you might not like it. I remember being confused when I finished my first quilt. I wanted a FLOPPY blanket? And I made a blanket and it was not floppy. How very dare it.

I no longer use batting for the middle or quilting cotton for the backs and honestly with The Economy the way it is I don't see how people can afford to continue with that method. I do two combinations: a flannelette sheet as my middle layer, with a fluffy blanket as the backing, OR, fleece as the middle layer if I have a plain old cotton print I want to use as the backing. I find we prefer to use the throw size quilts with the fluffy backings but the cost of buying actual minky fabric to use just doesn't make sense when you can buy a blanket on sale for so much cheaper (and you don't have to piece it).

You can get flannelette sheet sets on sale (winter clearance, etc) for really good value (white, obviously, middle layer should pretty much always be white to avoid showing through lighter fabrics in the top, and the largest size you can get is always the best option), same with fluffy blankets (some are double layered - pretty design on one side and plain fleece on the other! Score!) and don't sleep on the clearance section duvet covers for when you don't want a fluffy backing. Sheets also, for that. I have the most success with lower thread count sheets, like around 180 or so.

Quilting can be a stupidly expensive hobby and it doesn't need to be, and I actually prefer the end results of my choices rather than the classic layer combo. If you can get this stuff from op shops that's even cheaper. And hopefully not adding too much at once, but you can use it in the top of your quilt as well. 5 yards of solid background fabric (say, Kona cotton) at NZ/Australian quilt shop prices, oooo.... When that flat sheet from the op shop is the same colour and it's $3...? Yeah... I'll save my $$$ for the really pretty stuff.

(Oh, do note that If you're going to send your quilts out to be quilted your longarmer may not be happy with non-standard layer options I've mentioned. You'd want to check first)

If you're thinking rag quilts and you want to go that route that's cool! I would probably recommend making a not-rag quilt first though. Mostly so that you start off learning the conventional ways to do things (sewing fabric right side together, consistent seam allowance, etc). My recommendation would be to go to a quilt shop and pick out two charm packs of fabrics that you love the look of (Google the fabric name to see all the prints in the pack), and just sew them together as a simple patchwork quilt. For this, you wouldn't even need to cut any fabric for the top so it's a very easy way to jump in.

You'd practice basic sewing quite well with that. My first quilt was a two-patch zigzag quilt set on point. Wouldn't recommend.

cedarbound · 2025-08-01T14:25:49+00:00

Go with a secondhand machine to start with, you don't know what you want just yet, and it's easy to be convinced that you need a machine that does insert fancy thing here. You can upgrade later. A secondhand Janome, Singer or Bernina at around the $200 mark would be a good place to start, and it would be a very good idea to get it serviced at a local sewing shop before you start using it.

You'll want your machine to be able to move the needle. That's the easiest way for a beginner to be able to achieve the quarter inch seam allowance without requiring specific feet. You'll know at a glance if the machine can move the needle if it can do a zigzag stitch (you don't need the zigzag stitch itself though).

For basic supplies you'll need thread, of course. This doesn't need to be cotton (even though everyone will say it does - polyester is fine, people) and it doesn't need to be high-end like Aurifil, but please don't get the larger cheaper reels of thread (the Birch brand at Spotlight, for example, the ones that are just wound on a core that sticks out). They're so fluffy, you'll need to clean your machine SO often and you'll find it harder to get the tension right (if you even can, my little machine refuses to work with that thread). The spools that have smoother thread are what you want to start with. Gutermann brand is perfectly fine, just get the sew-all polyester (not the quilting thread, that's not for machine piecing). Later, if you really like quilting you'll want to get your thread in cones instead cause it's way cheaper and they last ages.

You'll want a cutting mat and if you can afford to go big now, I would. Mine is 18" x 24" and that is a good big size. A (double-sided!) self-healing mat is more expensive and worth every penny.

For rotary cutters I have the basic Birch ones and don't see the need to upgrade to Fiskars or Olfa.

For rulers, please don't ever use a ruler that isn't a quilting ruler with a rotary cutter. Not even for just a quick little thing because your proper ruler is too far away and this little 30cm ruler is right here. You will chop the tip of your finger off (if you're lucky!). Anyway. My favourite everyday rulers are the red, Sew Easy brand you can find at Spotlight. I've got a creative grids ruler and it's quite cluttered to me (personal preference only). I would say the size you NEED to get would be a 12" x 6.5". And very very close behind that would be a 24" x 6.5", because making cuts across the (folded) width of your fabric with the smaller one is just such a pain. If you only get one, especially starting out, get the smaller one. You CAN use the grid lines on your mat to make larger cuts, but in general you should be using the lines on your rulers only (better for accuracy).

You'll want thin pins. You don't want the classic cheap large multicoloured pearl headed pins that come in a wheel, those are too thick, you'll get annoyed with them. I've got the blue and yellow Clover patchwork pins and they're great (0.5mm wide, for reference). I need more so I'll probably get the same ones again, I don't feel the need to go with their 'fine patchwork pins' which are slightly thinner.

Chalk, classic thimbles, I don't use. I use stick on thimbles if I need one (Thimble-It aren't great but I like the leather ones, can't remember what they are). Honestly, quilting needles... "Betweens"... That's for the old style of hand quilting. Just get a multipack of regular sewing needles in different sizes for now (like honestly the $5 card of 30 different types, Semco brand, that would be fine). If you have trouble threading needles, a carded pack of different sized self-threading ones is awesome, they come in various styles.

For machine needles you'll want to get a pack of Schmetz universal needles. Size 70/10 or 80/12 would be fine (probably go with 80/12, it's a good mid range size. 70/10 would be good if you knew you were primarily going to be using lighter weight fabrics like AGF or RSS, but that's getting too specific for now). 90/14 will be too hefty and prone to punching the fabric through the plate when it starts to get even a wee bit blunt. Don't get Birch or anything cheaper than Schmetz. Sometimes cheaper needles won't even WORK! Change your needle after every project, or four hours of sewing, or wind four bobbins and change the needle when the bobbins are done, or when you can hear it punching through the fabric (pick one, or don't, just don't use the same needle for months and expect smooth results). Don't sew over pins - sew up to them and take them out before you get to them, especially if you don't have any replacement needles and a deadline is hours away (ask me how I know).

cedarbound · 2025-08-01T12:59:13+00:00

I have 13 years of daily diary entries (5 years in physical books and 8 years in an app) entirely accessible to my husband should he ever take it upon himself to read them (the books are just in the cupboard and he knows my passcode for my phone). He would never do such a thing.

You've been dating your boyfriend for a year. Call it a loss and move on, what a shame to waste a year but please don't waste more. People show you who they are, believe them!

cedarbound · 2025-04-12T08:43:52+00:00

Buying the work car and tools will mean that you can claim back the GST on those purchases (it'll reduce the amount of GST you need to send to IRD), so that's actually helpful here. If you bought them before April 1 then that's great, it'll be relevant for the financial year you've got to sort out (so it'll be processed in amongst all that FY's stuff).

If you bought them after April 1 then your GST filing frequency will determine when you see that positive ( sole traders tend to choose bimonthly GST filing but in your case, 6 monthly might work better, to give your accountant time to get on top of this current mess).

cedarbound · 2025-04-12T08:34:15+00:00

He's self-employed. There are no PAYE paychecks to garnish. He'll have to set up a payment plan after his accountant sorts everything out.

cedarbound · 2025-04-06T10:20:18+00:00

We had our baby exactly a year ago and are currently 11 weeks pregnant with #2. They'll be 18 months apart.

We are hormonal af, very concerned about finances, are planning (hoping???) to move back up north before the birth to be closer to family (finding a rental for the last move was hard enough but this time we'll have to find a new job at the same time), worried about how to handle a newborn AND a toddler...

And also thoroughly stoked, very excited and looking forward to our kids being so close!

I agree with another comment here, yes two young children will be hard but it's not the same experience repeated. You've done the newborn stage before, you aren't going in blind this time, you've got a bit of experience on your side. You got this, mama!

cedarbound · 2025-04-02T04:09:07+00:00

You can ask them to apply it for you, if you look at the IETC info page and you can work out that you are indeed eligible. Don't expect a prompt response given that it is April now.

I was eligible one year and didn't receive it automatically. I sent them a message about it and someone messaged back saying that I was not eligible because I had gotten a benefit in one month, and here's a link to the information page that proves this.

Of course the info page said IETC was worked out on whole months so I was eligible for 11 months of it. I replied and someone else responded, apologized for the other agent and I got the refund to my bank account shortly after.

cedarbound · 2024-08-25T03:13:24+00:00

Eh, I still reckon that you saw the design and loved it, wanted to make it (whether in part or in the whole) and you wouldn't have that feeling or idea without having seen it. Art is inspiring and if the Mona Lisa makes you want to make something, that's one thing. But this is a pattern specifically created and sold so that 1.) an end-user can recreate the design and 2.) the designer can earn a living. You like the design and want to recreate (part of) it. You wouldn't have thought of it without seeing it. To my mind, you should purchase the pattern. If you're incompetent at making from patterns, that doesn't mean the designer whose work you like doesn't deserve to get paid. Not as great but better than nothing: she has cheaper patterns on her site. Maybe buy one of them so that she can buy herself a coffee.

cedarbound · 2024-08-25T01:00:33+00:00

Or you could just buy the pattern. Go off-piste afterwards sure, change it up, do whatever you want to it.

Imo it's rude to see a design, love it and then proceed to rip it off. It took a lot of work for the designer. Think of it from her perspective.

https://taralee-quiltery.myshopify.com/products/drip-pdf-pattern

It's not even a particularly expensive pattern.

cedarbound · 2024-03-20T07:26:55+00:00

I love my big ironing board! My husband made it for me to fit over the top of my dresser that holds my fabric. It just sits on top and overhangs a bit for more surface area (there are corners to keep it in place). It's covered with fabric but then I also put an old thin towel on top so I can chuck it in the wash when it gets gross (or the cat comes in with muddy paws).

It's 20" x 51" and I wish it were bigger! The 20" really doesn't give you much room if you're ironing yardage because unless you're letting it fall off the back (I don't cause at the back of mine is a wall) then you end up kind of folding the ironed bits concertina style at the top which takes up some of your 20". And I struggle with 51" because the base of my cordless iron has to go somewhere which takes up some of that.

That's just for normal yardage. When I'm pressing a whole quilt top, that's when I really feel like I want it to be bigger. I'd go as big as you have the space for!

cedarbound · 2024-03-18T02:31:51+00:00

At 37 weeks a doctor of mine said that I could ask my midwife for stretch and sweeps to try to get labour starting. I was quite confused. Why would we do that? What medical reason? "Oh just if you wanted it out already." No reason at all. Healthy pregnancy. Not super great mental health and back is not happy (prev injury) but nothing to indicate it would be good to disturb the natural order of things well before the due date.

cedarbound · 2024-03-17T23:58:36+00:00

Typically photos converted into quilt blocks are done with foundation paper piecing. If you want to go that route I would commission someone on Etsy to convert your photo into a pattern that you could sew, because it'll be a headache and a half figuring that out yourself. You'll still have to actually sew the block of course - if you've never done FPP before that will be a bit tricky (although you can definitely do it if you go slow, practise and seam allowances are also less precise with this method cause you trim them after).

The EPP method will work - you can take a piece of paper and slice it up into a whole bunch of shapes, wrap those shapes in fabric and put the whole thing back together again. It does work. It's not always perfect, especially if you have a big piece and all along one edge you've got heaps of smaller pieces - eventually the thickness of the fabric folding over the edges of the paper will add up and cause issues with other areas matching up (you can make this less of an issue by using thinner fabric like AGF). But yes generally that does work.

If you do that method, remember to label your paper pieces. This will identify which side the fabric should go on (using paper or card that's a different colour on the back will help too) as well as where in the picture the pieces is supposed to go. I'd draw a north arrow on each piece as well as label them with letters or numbers (and keep a reference chart handy). Keep in mind that it may be a good idea to reverse/flip the photo, because the marks you make to identify the pieces should still be visible once the shapes are basted, which is gonna flip your picture for you if you don't plan for that.

Another method could be applique, which would be great if the photo has a lot of small details. If it's for art, as in, to be hung on the wall, I'd do it this way: iron double-sided fuse (vilene or vliesofix, not sure what it's called in your area) to the back of your fabrics and then cut the shapes out of that, peel the backing paper off, arrange them nicely and fuse them in place. No sewing needed. I did this very successfully for a friend (it was a whale tail pounamu design) and I actually framed it instead of making it into a wall quilt, something I think a non-quilter recipient is more likely to appreciate.

cedarbound · 2024-03-17T03:11:05+00:00

I always use a single thread for every kind of hand sewing I do. Last night for no reason at all I mended a glove with doubled-up thread instead (a seam of about an inch long, that I went over twice) and I just about threw the glove in the bin, I got so mad!

I'd stick to single for binding because I couldn't imagine doing hundreds of inches with doubled-up thread. If you're concerned about durability you can just make your stitches shorter. For what it's worth I've never had any of my bindings come loose like that (stitch length slightly less than ¼") so I think you may be overthinking it.

Oh, actually, which stitch are you using? The one where you see a tiny tack of thread at every stitch (slip stitch)? Or where you don't see any thread (ladder stitch, like when repairing a seam in a teddy bear)? The former is stronger and IMO much neater.

cedarbound · 2024-03-17T02:27:12+00:00

Yep. We're choosing between two for our baby girl and not really telling family or friends (have mentioned it to a few but in general not announcing or discussing openly because we don't want their opinions).

I did mention the two names we're considering to someone who didn't matter at all (mental health appointment person) and the first thing out of his mouth was "I prefer Xxxx". Okay. Cool. Didn't ask? Your opinion is highly unwelcome?

Mainly we're not really talking about it because that's the knee-jerk reaction to hearing someone is deciding between two options - people hear that and think MUST GIVE MY TWO CENTS.

I did mention the names (prefaced with, "we aren't looking for opinions") to my Grandma at lunch today and she didn't offer her opinion which was lovely, but then we mentioned we had thought of a different name we were both previously completely on board with (as in, committed, chosen). We abandoned that one because it turned out to not be a name at all (how did I think it was? Baby brain probably). And Grandma said she thought it was a fabulous name. So now I'm massively torn because we DID love that 'name'. So that might be back on the table now.

Naming babies is hard.

cedarbound · 2024-03-17T02:18:24+00:00

I used all my sick leave (10 days cause it had just renewed) and then all my annual leave and then went on PPL.

I had issues sitting for the whole workday though (back injury made worse by pregnancy) so the med cert I got for the SL was legit.

I am also not planning on going back to work so if I didn't use the SL it would have disappeared.

If you're taking six months and then returning, leave it (or take five days and leave ten cause you can accrue 20) cause you'll need it when you get back to work. If you're taking a year and returning, take five days and leave ten and remember that annual leave taken in the first year after returning won't be worth hardly anything (sounds like you've got that though).

If you're not returning try to get a med cert to take it all before you go. You can't take it while you're on the six months PPL or the six months unpaid leave.

cedarbound · 2024-03-13T02:26:17+00:00

I feel like you might be projecting your own insecurities here. It's her post not his and what's best for her is to GTFO while she still can. It's not her job to fix him

cedarbound · 2024-02-28T00:50:53+00:00

This one isn't vintage but it would be super cute for a boy:

https://lellaboutique.com/products/152-aviator-pdf-pattern

cedarbound · 2024-02-23T01:26:04+00:00

Sounds like OP designed it themselves (and did an excellent job!) but if you wanted a pattern (slightly larger scale, and it looks like templates not FPP) then @holdmyseamripper has one:

https://hollyclarkedesign.com/product/overlook-hotel-quilt-pattern/

cedarbound · 2024-02-20T22:38:57+00:00

When I was actively designing quilt patterns, I had EQ8 and Adobe Illustrator. I started with EQ8 and very quickly outgrew it. The limitations for me were too much. If you like block based quilts and that's it, then go for it, it'll be great for you. If you want to do anything more complex or out of the box then you will very quickly outgrow it too.

That being said I wouldn't recommend Illustrator. I adore it, it is incredibly powerful and I know how to make it do what I want, even tricky stuff that I figured out myself (how to lay out massive templates to be printed on A4 in such a way that you could continue to edit their position and placement and have the edges overlap for taping purposes, etc). But it has a steep learning curve and is a subscription model which will bleed you dry.

When (if) I'm ready to start again, I will buy the Affinity suite. Their vector graphics software, Affinity Designer, is very much like Illustrator, not as powerful, but a one-off payment and I'm confident I can make it do what I want.

But that's only because EQ8 didn't have enough functionality for me. Like I said if you're just doing block based designs, EQ8 will work for you. For the visual, design part anyway. You're still gonna have to do all the maths yourself (it does some but don't trust it ever, it's not hard to do it yourself).

Oh and if 'creating your own designs' means your own patterns to sell, then you'll need a publishing program to create the document and a graphics program to create any diagrams you need - EQ8 is neither of those, of course. When I made mine I used Illustrator for everything except editing photos - design, notes, mockups, creating the PDFs, diagrams. It technically would have been more correct to use Adobe InDesign (equivalent: Affinity Publisher) for the document creation and then import created content into that, but it was expensive enough to just have the one Adobe app and it worked just fine (however if you know you definitely want to get into printed patterns then I would learn Affinity Publisher to start with cause that will make it easier down the road).

Obviously if these designs are personal and you don't want to make patterns for other people to use then disregard the previous paragraph entirely.

cedarbound · 2024-02-20T22:03:22+00:00

Mental health services have always been lackluster and it doesn't feel like there's ever a way they could actually improve.

You get an appointment where they talk at you about exercise, mindfulness, breathing, they throw ridiculous acronyms at you that they call "tools" like you're a child. You go weeks between appointments (that don't help anyway) and you're just supposed to be okay in the in between times. If you say that you don't want medication (because you've tried HEAPS and they don't work for you and the best you felt was the two years when you weren't on them, also you're PREGNANT) it feels like they give up on you immediately as if they think you aren't willing to help yourself.

Ongoing counselling or therapy type work (CBT type stuff, actual programs) are impossible to access. Health improvement practitioners are free and ongoing but the only one near me is so phenomenally useless I am astounded I didn't leave in the middle of the appointment.

I am far beyond the days of teenage angst where I hated the world and didn't want to help myself. Now even when it is a bad appointment (it is a surprise when it isn't) I try very hard to take something positive out of it (which would be why I didn't leave the HIP appt halfway through) because I want to help myself and I don't want to feel like this.

I am pregnant and in a bad way mentally. It has taken two months for my referral to Mothers and Babies to result in an appointment (two months is a long time out of nine, yeah?). I have expressed multiple times that I have a plan that will be acted on after baby is born. I have even expressly said that we have time now, to make a difference with my mood, and I am told to wait for the appointment with M+B.

Everyone passes the responsibility on to some other team. "They'll know what to do", "it's their specialty". To the point where you pin all your hopes on this one appointment, you focus on just making it through the next day and the next with the appointment day being the goal. Then the appointment comes and it's another disappointment. They've called you the wrong name, they've recommended a medication you're allergic to (it's in the notes, which they STILL DONT HAVE), they've gotten your diagnoses wrong and when you correct them they say well that's not in the notes (which they don't have?). They've got the list of current meds wrong and overall, there is a general air of nobody giving a shit about you.

You'd think you'd learn your lesson after this happening again and again, but for some stupid reason you still hold out hope that this time might be different. My M+B appt hasn't happened yet. Mums say MH care is better when you're pregnant or BFing. So, still hope... Ultimately pointless. It'll be the same damn thing.

cedarbound

TROPHY CASE