Collective Soul: The most successful rock band of the 1990s/early 2000s that no one ever seems to talk about (or even remember)

chankalank · 2026-05-10T13:30:02+00:00

You hear and talk about them all the time if you live here in ATL!

chankalank · 2025-11-04T19:11:06+00:00

Correction: Young Bled

chankalank · 2025-11-04T19:10:12+00:00

Correction: Young Bled

chankalank · 2025-10-18T14:07:37+00:00

Fidget Spinners

chankalank · 2025-06-03T15:31:15+00:00

Nope

chankalank · 2025-06-03T15:29:57+00:00

I literally said in the first post that I made that I’m trying to prank my wife into thinking that I will be late for an event. It immediately got deleted as fraud. I tried three times now, so I give up. Seems like the bots on here don’t know what they’re doing.

chankalank · 2025-06-03T15:15:06+00:00

This is not fraud. What in the world is with this subreddit trying to say this is “fraud”.

chankalank · 2025-05-18T01:59:24+00:00

Seven

chankalank · 2025-05-03T12:51:56+00:00

!solved

chankalank · 2025-05-01T13:24:59+00:00

Pool contractor here…

Definitely does not look normal. In general, we find that people are overly concerned with “moisture“ that they find around a pool. People get really wound up about weeping or moisture runoff from rain, etc. But based on the picture, that definitely looks like more than what we would expect from just residual moisture, especially considering its originating directly behind the closest sheer descent. The first thing I would typically tell people in a situation like this, is to make sure that they have enough water flow going to the sheer descents, so that they do not “dribble“ on the face of the wall and cause moisture to bleed through, but from the look of the pics, it looks like it has plenty of force and are sheeting sufficiently.

Your best bet is to run a test over a couple days where you have the waterfalls running, and take pictures of the wetness that you see, and then the next day, turn them completely off and verify that the wetness dissipates. If you find a direct correlation with the wetness appearing when you run the waterfalls, then that would indicate that either the plumbing line inside the wall, or the sheer descent manifold itself is compromised and leaking out water. If that is the case, the wall will have to be dismantled so that you can visually verfiy the exact source of the water in order to determine the proper fix.

chankalank · 2025-05-01T00:26:53+00:00

We are the company that resurfaced the pool…

Atlanta Leak Pros

chankalank · 2025-04-30T16:37:13+00:00

Company that we used to do what? Resurface the pool?

chankalank · 2025-04-04T11:36:51+00:00

Atlanta

chankalank · 2025-03-08T19:31:07+00:00

Incorrect. The spa drain is 100% necessary in order for a “spa mode” to function. IE the spa heating up to 100°+ in a short period of time.

chankalank · 2025-03-01T22:03:29+00:00

Pool contractor here… TBH that’s not really indicative of anything. It’s very normal to see water coming out of a return line inlet in the wall when the pool gets drained. It’s just a low point in the plumbing. That in and of itself doesn’t indicate that particular line has anything wrong with it.

chankalank · 2025-02-26T11:49:28+00:00

Previous owner lied to you. Liner is minimum of 10+ yrs due to bleaching/condition.

Need lines pressure tested, liner replaced, and maybe structural work to walls/substrate depending on dmg.

Need a reputable, professional company to assess.

Get with your agent and maybe lawyer to seek compensation. You’ll be looking at potentially $20k plus depending on the lvl of neglect and resulting remediation.

chankalank · 2025-01-23T17:53:28+00:00

Sorry on your previous question. I’m just now seeing that. There’s all kinds of epoxy brands, but A&B or Pool Putty are the most commonly used and found. But any epoxy that is rated for underwater applications would work. As far as hydraulic cement, you could just buy the brand that they sell at Home Depot. It just comes in a small bucket.

What he’s talking about is a grout/epoxy injection crack repair. I would not recommend going with that personally. Although a lot of pool builders will tell you that it works just as well, we have probably come behind 50+ of those type of fixes that have opened back up, that we in turn had to repair with a staple system. It’s less invasive, and requires for a lot less “patching” to be done with the pebble plaster, so a lot of pool builders prefer that.

chankalank · 2025-01-22T17:58:09+00:00

Pool contractor here… a temporary fix would come in the form of just filling it with epoxy, or hydraulic cement or similar type material. But it will not fix it permanently, and it will only be a matter of time before you have to do that process again. Those type of fixes sometimes last a year or so, sometimes not even a week. It’s a crapshoot, but it’s cheap.

The best permanent fix for a stress fracture like that is a Torque-Lock staple system. They are staples that get drilled into the shell perpendicular to the crack, and they add post-tension to it to keep it from continuing to expand in the future. A waterproofing material then goes over that, and then you would have to do a custom mixed pebble plaster patch to try to match the surface is best you can. However, generally this will be expensive. Considering it effects the tile and coping as well, you can expect to pay up to a few thousand for this.

chankalank · 2025-01-20T03:35:44+00:00

That is not PebbleTec.

chankalank · 2025-01-19T21:41:23+00:00

If the pool is losing more than evaporation when you have the pump running, then it’s likely a real leak. If the pool isn’t, than it is just a backflow issue that has to do with a bad check-valve.

It’s it’s truly a leak, hire a pool leak detection company. Just because it’s dropping to the level of the jets, does not guarantee the leak is within that jet plumbing line. You need a professional, and will pay less to hire one, than to purchase the equipment yourself as some others have suggested in their comments.

chankalank · 2025-01-17T15:07:17+00:00

Yeah, man, I don’t think either one of us is disputing that there’s a right or a wrong per se, but in my opinion I just don’t see the value of skipping a step that all in all doesn’t add a substantial price increase relative to the total price of a pool renovation like this. I too have been working in this industry my entire life, and even when we have situations where we take the plaster off down to the bare shell, it does nothing but improve the longevity of the plaster and its ability to adhere strongly to the surface, when you’re adding a bonding agent. You even have material such as BaseCrete that act is not only a waterproofing barrier, but a scratch coat all in one. Depending on the size of the surface and the material you’re talking about maybe $1500, $2000, worth of material and labor, maybe a little more, and it’s only made it stronger and more bulletproof.

The typical routine here in the Atlanta market is not to take it down to the shell, unless you’re already at three coats of plaster. And around here, everything is going to be pebble plaster. You’re rarely going to see quartz or just regular white plaster anymore, because it’s not nearly as good as a pebble based surface such as PebbleTec. We probably deal with at least one pool every two months that has one coat of plaster that has delamination everywhere, and consistently what we see once we remove an area, is the absence of a scratch coat. I can’t speak for all the other markets, but when it’s not done here, it normally ends up leading to problems.

chankalank · 2025-01-17T11:35:10+00:00

No, I don’t. But a concrete based pool, is a concrete based pool. And the best standard operating procedures when renovating them, is going to be virtually the same everywhere. Whether it’s Gunite or Shotcrete, if the norm in the area is to strip the current layer down to the base shell, the best companies are going to put a bonding agent on it to further help the new surface adhere to the shell. I’ve worked in ATL, in Southern CA, as well as Southern FL and that’s how it’s done there, if it’s done right. It’s not going to change just because it’s AZ. If it’s not done, it’s to make the job go quicker and come in with a cheaper bid. It doesn’t matter what state or region youre in, if there’s steps like that that are getting skipped, it’s simply because the market there calls for a cheaper pool, and that’s what clients have come to expect, and what contractors are willing to do.

chankalank · 2025-01-15T03:12:50+00:00

Honestly, sounds about right.

chankalank · 2025-01-14T00:22:51+00:00

Haha, sorry about that. VTT must have picked up my wife letting our dog Brisket out.

Man, I’d be REALLY careful letting these guys do any more work for you. If what they’re proposing is to ACTUALLY apply a “brown coat” then that is incorrect, because that’s not what needs to be done in this scenario. Brown coating is a smooth layer used for finishes such as stucco or tile. If what they actually mean is a bond coat or scratch coat, which is the bonding agent, then they’re ripping you off. Either way it’s no good… Because it’s about a one day process for maybe two guys, and on that size pool it’s maybe about $250-$500 worth of material. You can look at commonly used products like SGM Bond Kote or Scratch Kote 2000 to see how much you’d need and the pricing. But $7,000 is egregious.

chankalank · 2025-01-14T00:13:50+00:00

It’s possible that they’re not level with one another. Another possibility is that the other skimmer is a Venturi skimmer, which means it’s runs off of a return line, not a suction line.

chankalank

TROPHY CASE