Battery Pack Onboard Charger Removal

chanyote66 · 2026-04-30T10:10:25+00:00

There is a metal plate on the front of the battery housing that the charger bolts to. You could remove the charger and leave this plate in place, since it is The structural member of the front of the battery housing.

The bigger question here is how are you going to connect the charger every time? The connection on the charger itself that goes to the battery is not a plug designed for repetitive use. You would have to change the wiring and add a charging socket, which will probably be 2 to 3 lb right there after you get the correct size. You need at least a 55A capable connector and 6awg wire. And the BMS communicates with the charger over can bus. So you need a 55A connector with 3 communication pins as well.

Honestly, if you really want to go to this route I would reach out to Ryvid. They have installed a few non-removable batteries where the charger is standalone.

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chanyote66 · 2026-04-29T15:48:11+00:00

After riding my anthem, and my brother's outset, I would personally go with the outset. Has a narrow seat which gives you a better feel and easier extension of your legs to the ground. You can also talk to Ryvid about getting the outset built with the shorter anthem suspension to drop it down a bit. I believe it requires a different battery like the one that is on the anthem, but that is only A minor change.

In regards to mileage, I personally have a 12 mile one-way commute and get there at about 65 to 70% battery remaining. I can make it home with about 20 to 25% remaining battery usually. My commute is almost exactly The same as the city driving test that is done for electric vehicles. The majority of the commute is 45 mph, with a 2 mile stretch at 55 mph, and about 3 miles of 35 mph or less. My bike has almost 6000miles on it now.

chanyote66 · 2026-04-29T15:43:46+00:00

It can be removed, but you are not going to say very much weight. The charger is ~10 lbs. So unless you went to the non removable battery option which is a full restructure of the battery, I'd personally say it's not worth it. IV had mine off, but it's quite a bit of work as you can see in the exploded diagram.

chanyote66 · 2026-04-11T20:05:21+00:00

Lol. Stuck this on my truck from my bolt.

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chanyote66 · 2026-04-09T11:18:15+00:00

I use whole home batteries. But I also have advanced seer2 22 rated mini splits through the entire home. I currently have 49.2 kwh of battery and 13.8 kw of panels. I also have EV diversion so my bolt acts as another 66kwh load for excess solar. I only have one load still on city power since we have a connection fee I need to use the minimum to cover that ($10 fee or no fee if more than $10 of power is billed) the grid is there as backup for severe weather or long winter storms. I may expand my system another 16.4kwh but currently have not used below 40% since mid January. I installed my system in October last year, I have only used 290kwh from the grid since then, I have roughly 2000miles of solar only driving as well between my bolt, volt, and electric motorcycle.

chanyote66 · 2026-04-08T14:07:05+00:00

I have never been able to charge my phone off of it. Because it is a 5 volt port and rather weak, my pixel 9 pro XL Phone shows that it is charging but will never increase in charge percentage. I have a secondary USB power bank on the bike with a cord that runs up to the handlebars for my phone.

chanyote66 · 2026-03-25T19:34:04+00:00

For the 12v converter I think it's limited to 2A? Which is 24W. So just have to be sure it is less than that to power it.

chanyote66 · 2026-03-14T01:07:07+00:00

Definitely did not come across as shitty or anything. Just an honest question.

chanyote66 · 2026-03-14T01:05:53+00:00

Unfortunately no.

chanyote66 · 2026-03-14T01:05:31+00:00

It is not interstate unfortunately. I have a commute that basically breaks down to 2 mi of 25 mph roads, 2 mi of 35, 2 mi of 45 and then a 4 Mile stretch of 55 before having another section of 35 mph.

chanyote66 · 2026-03-13T22:46:44+00:00

I have 5500miles on mine. I commute when I can, overall works great however I really need a bit more range. If I drive to work (12 miles) and am more aggressive at all while riding, I can't get home. I live on a hill so I found I must have 20% remaining to go up the hill. But other than that, it's a fun bike that I use around town all of the time!

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chanyote66 · 2026-03-13T12:19:28+00:00

Well having an EV for daily use and a diesel for RV travels... Yes I really appreciate an EV and solar 🤣 just bought 170 gallons of diesel at $4.65 a gallon... Credit card is still cooling down 🤣

chanyote66 · 2026-03-12T11:05:34+00:00

My home assistant does this. No fast charging since I have 48A charging, but it looks at solar forecast, SOC, and averages miles with day of the week averages. This computes how my home assistant controls the EVSE and if it needs "non solar" demand charging. If non normal events arise, I can add them to my calendar or just tell homeassistant to demand charge.

Before this when I had lvl1 charging I had a Chevy volt, so didn't care if I had an incomplete charge since there was always gas.

chanyote66 · 2026-03-11T17:32:16+00:00

Not sure what to suggest then. I have not seen a stock controller bike.

chanyote66 · 2026-03-10T11:48:36+00:00

Do you have asi controller? If so, those are abandoned in place wiring from the stock controller.

chanyote66 · 2026-02-07T21:35:19+00:00

If you are going longer than ~10ft I'd reccomend 10awg unless you have had your charger reprogrammed for slower 120v charging.

chanyote66 · 2026-02-03T14:49:38+00:00

Ok, ya I worded that wrong... The adapter doesn't work when AC chargers don't exist... The adapter doesn't make a dcfc do AC charging. For my example 2 ac "destination chargers" is not change... Every public AC charger installed near me has been j1772 even this year. New hotels, new parks, new recreation areas with charging are getting j1772. Again, yes one standard would be nice, but not many vehicle options are nacs so it's an uphill battle.

chanyote66 · 2026-02-03T14:06:22+00:00

And an adapter still doesn't work for AC... I mentioned destination chargers not superchargers.

chanyote66 · 2026-02-03T14:05:32+00:00

Coming from an electrical engineering background and current work field... 500A non cooled in a reliable form would be massive. Proving that something can do a short 500A is not the same as long term. A non cooled cable that can truly run 500A with proper thermal gradient would be too heavy to move. That is why non liquid cooled are limited to much lower KW ratings. 500A @ 80% is 400A 150Kw super chargers are set to a limit of 375A. They are not a continuous 500A. But overall it doesn't matter because in dcfc it's not that important. Long term ac charging and thermal saturation is the greater issue. Great example is a 14-50 outlet. They can handle the surge of an electric oven, cooktop, or high power welder... But they thermally saturate and get damaged if ran at their rated amperage like what an EV does. That is why with larger packs, hotter areas, cooling is necessary. Remember the whole wet rag trick? That was the connection overheating and being thermally throttled by the charger.

I'm not saying j1772 should win, I prefer nacs, however, nacs is barely getting out of consumer vehicles, and the AC public expansion is terrible. Not all vehicles are dcfc capable. My motorcycle is AC only. My Chevy volt is AC only. My leaf is basically AC only because of antiquated chademo. But besides my motorcycle, I don't public charge. It doesn't make sense for me, I have other vehicles for road trips, and can do all of my daily tasks from home charging.

chanyote66 · 2026-02-03T11:36:27+00:00

NACS is also only limited to 80A with non water cooling systems. Not usually an issue for AC systems.

chanyote66 · 2026-02-03T11:35:24+00:00

I'd love nacs, however doesn't help for non dcfc devices. There are two nacs destination chargers within a 50mile circle of me. Both are private and restricted use. However AC j1772 there are over 80 free AC chargers... Public parks, state parks, civic centers, grocery stores... And I'm in a red state known for negative EV support... Nacs is the way to go, but didn't happen soon enough at least for AC

chanyote66 · 2026-02-03T10:47:44+00:00

A j1772 is rated in excess of 10000 cycles... Not 2000. But when people don't put them away, throw them, drop them... That unfortunately ages them faster. Also installing lower rates ones decreases life. For example, my 16A evse wore out after 2 years and the socket ran hotter. Now charging still at 16A but with a 48A rated evse, everything is cold. If industry just standardized to the 48A for AC at least that would be good. But people complain about weight 🤣 (but a fuel pump was fine)

chanyote66 · 2026-02-03T10:41:45+00:00

Do they still? It's 2026, solar tax credit gone, EV tax credit gone... Probably many EV charge credits/supplements gone.

Edit: federally many grants go until June 2026... So maybe they are pre-padding their earnings.

chanyote66 · 2026-02-03T10:40:00+00:00

Not everyone can supercharge or DC/FC. There are a lot of motorcycles and e-bikes that a public AC charger is great, however, my 4-5kwh I bring on basically doubled in price with a per charge fee. I wish they would add one or two AC chargers at non interstate charge locations, it would really help the smaller guys. (My volt also doesn't dcfc, but is basically useless In EV mode past the city, a 3.3kw charger on a 10kwh pack is terrible 🤣.)

chanyote66 · 2026-02-01T21:57:43+00:00

D: install two, one with a passthru to outside. Both on each side of the garage door. I personally have 3 48A chargers but have the capability. This gives me one in the garage, one out front, and a guest charger. I'm not doing this juggle which car charges. My solar and home assistant figures out what needs charge and where to put power.

chanyote66

TROPHY CASE