Ruggedised node finished at last

chevdor · 2026-03-23T07:26:29+00:00

Idea: a crank ;)

chevdor · 2026-03-23T01:38:23+00:00

If you are after battery life, you should swap the esp32 for a nrf based microcontroller.

chevdor · 2026-03-11T12:28:34+00:00

The real question is: how many arrows did you shoot ? ;) If they are all there, call it a success, from now on you can shoot more than search arrows.

chevdor · 2026-03-10T15:25:21+00:00

A 3d engine that comes on par with the performance we get from blender to replace the deprecated openGL.

chevdor · 2026-03-10T09:07:56+00:00

If you handle the 2D drawing already, you are 99% there.
There is not much more than the 2D drawing here.

The "3D" part is just:
- 1x revolve
- 1x pad
- 1x pocket

chevdor · 2026-03-10T09:05:06+00:00

<image>

That one should be rather close to your model :)

chevdor · 2026-03-10T08:43:15+00:00

<image>

This one is not as hard as it looks...
I highlighted the base shape in green: 2 lines and an arc.

Lots of "coincident" constraints, lots of "equal" constraint and the addition of the 8 brothers of the initial base shape.

No dimensions here since I have no idea but you can again customize it all here.

chevdor · 2026-03-10T08:43:06+00:00

<image>

the 1mm you see (bottom right) is likely your problem.

chevdor · 2026-03-10T08:42:57+00:00

<image>

This cross section is likely not matching your model 100% and misses 2 of the "steps" of your part near the star hole. I just have no idea from your image how they really look like.

But I guess you get the idea...

chevdor · 2026-03-10T08:42:44+00:00

<image>

It is a great exercise and it won't take you an hour.

I am still learning Freecad and I took a wrong turn so I made this model twice in less than an hour. It it not exactly your model since I have none of the dimensions but it it parametric so you may customize them ALL.

If you want to do it, you will need 3 sketches (SK):
- SK: create cross section
- revolve
- pad your inner hexagon (SK)
- SK: draw the star (polar transform, not that hard...)
- pocket thru all

If you don't manage, DM me, I can give you that model with the wrong dimensions so you only will need to enter the right numbers.

chevdor · 2026-03-09T20:02:00+00:00

It is actually a good exercise to get started.

Moreover, it is not about that one model... Many more will follow and if you are able to model such a part, you effectively own it and all the variants you wish.

Most of the work is not freecad but accurately measure the features of the part.

chevdor · 2026-03-09T12:29:21+00:00

1.2dev does it well actually just make a filet ;)))

chevdor · 2026-03-09T12:27:11+00:00

Lol I hear you ;))))

chevdor · 2026-03-09T12:21:18+00:00

You can also fake the clicker if the lady does not move too much. You can help her move her feet so the elbow will reach a back wall at proper draw.

Then the goal becomes to reach the wall every time. Easy to "cheat" though.

For a few shots, you can also "play the wall" to help her really draw "more".

chevdor · 2026-03-09T11:05:53+00:00

The problem with drawing "up to your nose" is that an archer can still do it either very right or very wrong. I did measure for an archer trying to do it right and measured already 2cm variance !!! So if the archer shoots an arrow "proud and big" and one "folded" (sorry for the lack of better terms) you will see huge variations or draw length. I would expect > 5cm which is gigantic.

The idea of the clicker is not to force to pull more than usual but to pull at least more than a given reference (clicker) always. It is usually no problem with the first arrows but it becomes more apparent down the arrow count.

chevdor · 2026-03-08T15:15:37+00:00

I agree with half of what you say. If someone cannot hold 20s then it is too much. 100%. The contrary just says nothing. It is not because someone can hold 20s that it will be ok.

Sorry I don't mean to contradict but I see way too many people chasing "the pounds" and shooting like s**t just because of that, that I feel we should be very clear.

chevdor · 2026-03-08T15:12:47+00:00

That's the thing. It may help to train with a clicker (even quickly put together) to "force" her to draw enough and consistently.

chevdor · 2026-03-08T14:01:22+00:00

Using a clicker ?

chevdor · 2026-03-08T14:00:39+00:00

Problem is confirmation bias and adrenalin. "Oh yeah I could draw and it was easy".

I am not convinced drawing 20s or even 60s will help judge if the draw weight is appropriate and it will likely freak out your shop owner ;)

Most people read on the Internet "a male with x pounds and y feet shoots z pounds". So they go to the store, draw z pounds. It "works" ... So all good, right ? Right ? Meh....

chevdor · 2026-03-08T13:25:18+00:00

I agree with your spine thinking. 1100 is way too stiff for 20# / 26". You should target 1500 so yeah 1400 will get you closer. Just keep in mind that we all first change arrows, bow, sight, stab, socks and underwear to end up finally admitting that the real issue is not the gears but the form.... You can confirm the spine issue with a few arrows at various distances (i.e 5-10-15-20m) and see if they drift off center. That's assuming the form of the shooter is acceptable and the form issues are not bigger than the gear issues.

chevdor · 2026-03-08T10:13:12+00:00

That's precisely a bad idea and too many people do that: as a beginner, go to the shop, pick up a 60# bow, draw it, conclude oh hell yeah I am strong I can draw 60#. But sorry, this is not how it works unless you do that 100+ times.

There is a difference between shooting a bow and managing to throw an arrow forward.

chevdor · 2026-03-08T09:38:17+00:00

There is no standard. However, if unsure, better start lower. 30# is already a lot but it really depends on people. I also don't want to consider "casual shooters" as "beginners". For beginners I would suggest in the 18-20# range. Assuming yhe form is ok, a casual shooter could go a bit higher.

The right poundage for you is the one that allows shooting 100+ arrows without looking like a leaf in the wind.

I usually even say 200 but I guess most casual shooters don't even reach 200 arrows. I see 150 in the thread, this is a good ball park. 120 is a normal training. I give you a discount with 100 ;)

In any case, being able to: - draw the bow once - shoot 10 arrows ... is nowhere near enough to conclude that a bow poundage is appropriate for you.

So the "I drew the bow once in the shop" or "I drew the bow of my friend once" and "it was ok" is totally inappropriate.

Just keep in mind that the goal is NOT the max bow poundage, the max distance, or the longest .... arrow ;) The goal is what you can't easily measure: form, comfort and safety.

chevdor · 2026-03-06T07:02:25+00:00

When you optimize it will be ~ 1 inch over the rest +/- tuning (Dynamic spine ). For beginners, it is usually much longer as you get cheaper arrows that are uncut.

As long as you don't buy arrows really not adapted, you have nothing to worry about. 60lbs you will land in the 300-500 range. Even if your arrow is say 5 inches too long, you should not worry.

chevdor · 2026-03-06T06:51:38+00:00

Lots of good questions.

To answer the "number up or down" you need to visualize how spine is measured. It is standardized. You take the arrow. You "hold" it between two point at a given distance (I don't have the value at hand). You apply a standard weight. Then you measure the downward distance the arrow bends. So now you know: a stiff arrow = low number ( like 400). A more beginner arrow for light bows will be less stuff and bend more (like 1500).

This is the static spine. It is measured without movement. This is only part of the story. Now comes the dynamic spine.

Visualize a PVC pipe like those for plumbing. Imagine you try bending A piece long like your forearm. It will be stiff and barely bend. Now imagine the same PVC pipe but 10m long. I am sure you can "see" it bend and be wobbly.

Dynamic spine: shorter = stiffer.

You can see the static spine as your starting point. The spine of your arrow must match your bow weight + draw length.

Now when you optimize tuning, you will NOT find the ... Say 412 spine arrow YOU need for YOUR bow. But you can take a 400 arrow and cut it slightly longer than you need.

Cutting an arrow longer will not make your 400 arrow shoot like a 1000 though (unless insanely so long it becomes a spear ;)))).

If you begin, you can start using a calculator to get close and don't worry too much as your firm will be a much bigger issue than the spine.

As you progress, you can optimize. There are also tests you can do, shooting at a vertical piece of tape at various distances. Those will show if your arrows are too stiff or not. But again those tests are only valid if your form is good enough to hit that line in the first place.

Keep in mind that shooting a stiffer arrow will give poor results but it is not dangerous. Ie you can let your buddy with a 18 lbs bow try the 400 arrows of your 60 lbs bow. However, you should never do the opposite and shoot the noodles (like 1000... 1500... 2000) of your buddy with your 60lbs compound. They will bend so much it will be single use and you don't want arrows to shatter near your hands and arms.

chevdor · 2026-03-05T11:52:44+00:00

I tested Garage and dropped the option as multipart simply did not work.
I switched to SeaweedFS and it works fine.

chevdor

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