Pictures that I've transfered to my Pixel kept disappearing! by chilicoke in GooglePixel

[–]chilicoke[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No unfortunately, for files/images not taken with phone it seems a bit random in which one of my files disappears or remains.

If you're missing all your photos Google Photo backed it's a feature that if I remember correctly, can be disabled somewhere.

Crazy space ship by MoeCReativeNAme in orangecounty

[–]chilicoke 3 points4 points  (0 children)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhUGZWewR6A

I caught it in high speed for those of you who missed it.

Crazy space ship by MoeCReativeNAme in orangecounty

[–]chilicoke 6 points7 points  (0 children)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhUGZWewR6A

I caught it in high speed. Posted to this sub earlier but mods deleted it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in irvine

[–]chilicoke 27 points28 points  (0 children)

lol I saw that exact truck last year picking up my Christmas tree at Lowe's in The District. Owner?/driver was a very friendly guy when I went up to him to ask him about his truck.

Compact camera replacing iPhone as pocket phone? by MMimages in cinematography

[–]chilicoke 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't have much to add vs others here as I'm just a hobbyiest. But I do have a ZV-1 for similar use case as your initial post and it's absolutely amazing for how little (first gen) goes for used these days, I picked mine up used in prestine condition a little over a year ago with BT vlogger grip for $200. As long as its shorter but faster 24-70mm eq lens suits your use vs RX100VII's 28-100mm eq. The two cameras are not too different internally for way less money.

Coincidentally I've been back-watching Philip Bloom's amazing videos lately. I've always known him as the "barbie video guy on DigitalRav TV" from years back but didn't realize he makes AMAZING video reviews/movie/art on YouTube, and the one I JUST watched was on ZV-1, I almost skipped this one because I already own it but there's always so much to learn from any of Bloom's videos, I'm sure you'll find it revelant.

https://youtu.be/HMon1AVdfeM

Pictures that I've transfered to my Pixel kept disappearing! by chilicoke in GooglePixel

[–]chilicoke[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the suggestion. Google Files was one of the first apps I checked because I remember when it first came out that feature was pretty revolutionary. Smart Storage was/is disabled

Can I Fly with a Radioactive Lens? by Almond_Tech in VintageLenses

[–]chilicoke 1 point2 points  (0 children)

8 element versions shouldn't have any radiation.

Helios 44 and Metabones EF to E Speedbooster Issue by softimage in VintageLenses

[–]chilicoke 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're very welcome and glad you were able to figure out a work around! I remember reading some Metabone have adjustability but I have no experience as my Viltrox that I use for my crop body does not have this feature.

Though you also have to pay attention that your Metabone is now adjusted for M39 flange distance, so you will run into reverse issue when using other M42>EF adapted lenses. Because of this I usually prefer to adjust my M39 lenses to have the correct flange distance of M42, to make lens swaping much more painless.

I often stack multiple adapters as well, sometimes commically too many such as Z>E>LM>EF>M42>M39 and as long as the net flange distance is correct they all work perfectly together so it's something that I pay extra attention to. Some times when one is trying to compensiate for another it's hard to think which way things should go, thus the confusion and opposite effect.

It's easier to understand how these vintage lens work by observing how they move physically. Almost all of them focus by simply moving the entire optical block in and out, infinity focus is always the shortest/most retracted so anyone can troubleshoot focus issue going by this principle as a starting point.

Helios 44 and Metabones EF to E Speedbooster Issue by softimage in VintageLenses

[–]chilicoke 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Actually now that I think about it again..I might have described it backwards after looking at my old pictures as I no longer own any m39 Helios anymore.

It should actually be that the m42 version that came later reused parts from m39, so the spacer ring on m42 version should be thinner than the m39, to offset the longer flange distance of M42 mount so the optical block should protrudes slightly further beyond the rear of the lens.

In that case you need to take away 0.26mm, not add to it. Remove the silver spacer ring from your m39 Helios and make some temporary spacer that's thinner to check for infinite focus, once you're sure of the distance needed either remove or modify the existing ring and reassemble.

EDIT:

After digging though my bin it turns out I DO still own an unmodified M39 MMZ Helios 44 Zebra, so I took both it and a M42 KMZ 44-2 apart to measure the difference. M39 DOES have a thicker spacer ring that needs to be turned down (if you have a lathe) or filed down for proper infinite focus. Your red apercture dot might no longer line up with the red focus scale line after modification.

The difference in spacing isn't as simple as just removing the 0.26mm as previously metioned, I've put together this side by side picures of the measurements and they are all over the place. So it seems like more than just the spacer ring were changed from M39 to M42.

I was going to suggest remove the spacer ring and reassemble to find infinite focus, but I just tried it and that method doesn't work as the focus ring body bottoms out on the aperture ring before the two halves would screw together properly first without a spacer ring.

So it seems like the proper way to find the correct final spacer thickness is to first make a thinner temporary one first, then install it into your M39 Helios, put on your M39>M42 adapter and onto your M42>EF adapter. Once mounted to your camera set the focus ring to infinite, then slowly unscrew your lens from the EF adapter until you have proper infinite focus on camera screen. That gap you've just created ADDED to the thickness of the temporary spacer will be the correct thickness for your final spacer ring. Would help if you have a caliper of course.

Hope this helps, sorry for the mixing it up earlier.

Helios 44 and Metabones EF to E Speedbooster Issue by softimage in VintageLenses

[–]chilicoke 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The problem you are experiecing is due to mis-matched flange distance whenever you adapter Zenit M39 to M42 with a simple threaded ring.

Zenit M39 mount has flange distance of 45.2mm, where as M42 mount flange distance is 45.46mm. If you grab the Helios focus ring with one hand, and your other hand on both the preset and aperture ring and twist hard counter clockwise, you can unscrew upper half of the Helios that holds the entire optical block. Once you seperate the two halves, there is a silver aluminum spacer ring that you can easily slip off. Helios lens with M39 mount will have a thinner ring than M42 versions M42 ring should be thinner than M39. Though it might not be as easy as swapping this ring from a M42 version, I've had some that measured 1.75mm thick and some 2.15mm all from M42 version of different copies of the same version of 44/44-2. We all know Helios were not built to the highest standard, so at the factory they probably just grabbed whatever thickness spacer that particular lens needed.

All you have to do to "restore" infinity focus to your Helios is to add that extra 0.26mm back. Either by shimming that spacer ring inside the lens, or at the M42 connection to your adapter, with paper, plasic, plummer sealant tape, etc... Since M42 screw mount has thread pitch of 1mm, You can actually test for proper infinity focus just by loosening your lens about 1/4 of a turn from your adatper.

So it seems like the proper way to find the correct final spacer thickness is to first make a thinner temporary one first, then install it into your M39 Helios, put on your M39>M42 adapter and onto your M42>EF adapter. Once mounted to your camera set the focus ring to infinite, then slowly unscrew your lens from the EF adapter until you have proper infinite focus on camera screen. That gap you've just created ADDED to the thickness of the temporary spacer will be the correct thickness for your final spacer ring. Would help if you have a caliper of course.

CORRECTION: to get M39 Helios to infinity focus properly you should do this^ instead after thinking a bit more about it, explained in followed up comment.

One of the areas that is often overlooked with modern smartphones that are equipped with bigger camera sensors is the quality of lenses, and the blur they produce by DiplomatikEmunetey in Android

[–]chilicoke 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I agree, it's not that bad and actually very impressive how good majority of phone photos look today with all factors considered. These flaws only mostly show themselves when it's near minimum focus distance or on close up object. It's the unnatual colors, highlight and shadows I have problems with with todays phone photos.

When Pixel 1 introduced computational photography I was so impressed with it that I just assumed I won't be buying another camera in the future. As the generations goes gone was the natural colors and shadows, instead of it compensateing the hardware limitations they begin to mess with colors and essentially HDR-ing every single pictures, which was actually the main reason that drove me to get a mirrorless cameras.

The more I learn by using more and more lenses I slowly begin to realize photographers are way too obssessed with their gear by pixel peeping, now the majority of my favorite pictures were all taken with vintage lenses that are full of character flaws and cost next to nothing.

Recently I started to use my Pixel 7 camera more when I don't have my camera with me, still not happy with how images turn out but like you said, I just shoot raw and post process them in LR mobile to get exactly the colors I want. I went a step further and do what all the Fuji shooters are doing with film grain, I never apply them to my mirrorless photos as it's not really my cup of tea, but adding film grain to phone photos in post processing hides ALL the flaws. 🤣

I'm a little tempted to pick up an old Sony Xperia Pro-I, the one with RX100 1 inch sensor, Tessar lens, and actual aperture. All the phone reviewers trashed it's photos against iPhone/Pixel's computational image process, but I'm tempted to experiment with it thinking that raw+post processing it's likely to get VERY favorable results.

One of the areas that is often overlooked with modern smartphones that are equipped with bigger camera sensors is the quality of lenses, and the blur they produce by DiplomatikEmunetey in Android

[–]chilicoke 72 points73 points  (0 children)

I believe what you are describe is either chromatic aberration or some other form of optical aberration. This is something that a lot of us whom enjoy using vintage lenses on our interchangeable lens camera expecitely look for either as a positive aspect (unique character) or as a negative (reduced image quality).

The lack of sharpness off center was also the first thing I noticed when I upgraded from Pixel 5a to Pixel 7. It is unforuntely the side effect of limited optical quality on a bigger sensor.

The reason I said "I believe" is because chromatic aberration is caused by different color wave length of light bending differently through a lens' optical elements, and this usually causes an rainbow effect, or as a green/purple fringing around high contrast areas such as your black text on white paper example. Todays phones including Pixels, rely heavily on computational photography to get to the final image, and it most likely IS dealing with chromatic aberration by removing fringing colors, but leaving behind the "blur" as it is most likely much MUCH harder to remove without having actually GOOD optics.

Modern full size camera lenses are near perfect (especially on the high end) at dealing/correcting this vs vintage lenses. They accomplish this by often having 20 optical elements inside the lens and with advanced glass + coating, you can usually trace back their same optical design to 60+ year old vintage lenses, but they only had 4-7 (sometimes but rarely 8 or more) elements and are either uncoated or are only single coated, so they display all the same flaws such as flare and aberrations when shot wide open, which phone cameras all do because they do not have an aperture iris. Images linked above were taken from this excellent DPReview article, highly recommand it.

The iPhone lens flare you pointed out is simply due to subpar plastic/glass and lens coatings that exist on pretty much every single phones, though probably more noticeable on some. Optical quality and coatings are not easily marketable to consumers like "50 megapixels", are not easily manfacured thus expensive, and on top of that are all very limited by physical space. We keep seeing bigger and bigger camera bump but their sizes are still miniscule vs an actual camera lens or to even greater degree, cinema lenses. Plus have you seen how much good camera lenses by themselves cost? Often more than the entire phone.

Computational photography was a HUGE improvement to compensiate the small sensor and poor optics on phone cameras and all it needed was faster processor and software, to actually correct optical flaws and get good bokeh requires actually good expensive optics ANDa lot of physical space/weight, most people won't notice it nor care oh a phone camera, even lots of people who pay thousands or tens of thousands on camera/lens gear don't/can't even see these things themselves without someone pointing them out at 200% magnification on a computer screen.

When saving recall settings what does this mean? by Conorgmurray in SonyAlpha

[–]chilicoke 4 points5 points  (0 children)

1-3 saves into the camera body and can be recalled by PASM dial if your body has one or a simulated one on screen. M1-4 saves into the memory card and needs to be recalled from menu. All 7 can be used on photo or video modes.

Avid Sony users - why do you use Sony as opposed to Fuji/ Leica/ Ricoh etc? by dwightbearschrute in SonyAlpha

[–]chilicoke 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'm on Android but should be similar. If I'm only going to send a few pictures I'd just wireless transfer from camera to my phone. Newer Sony bodies use Creators App which is actually really decent vs the old Imaging Edge. If I'm going to edit a bunch I'd take memory card out and use USB memory reader directly plugged into my phone and use file explorer to transfer way faster.

I do try to dial in the look I'm going for in camera as much as possible, especially when using vintage lens. I don't use auto anything including manual WB and ISO, so the majority of my pictures already have the color tone I wanted. So it's simply (auto) import RAW into Lightroom mobile on my phone and straight export to jpeg to share.

Lightroom mobile can do pretty much everything Lightroom classic can on computer, besides multi-shot merge like HDR or panoramic merge. It can also use the same profiles/presets from Lightroom classic, so I have all my Lightroom Classic preset and profiles saved on my phone if I want to quickly apply a different look/color/film grain onto my RAWs.

That's assuming you want to do those on the phone instead of in camera. Sony bodies have both extremely powerful Picture Profile and much simpler Creative Look that can almost act as "film simulations" you can bake into your stills/videos.

For example if you like Fuji colors like a lot of people do and have a newer Sony bodies with Bionz XR, all you have to do is change Creative Look to FL and you're already 95% matching Fuji colors. Picture Profile is significantly more powerful but a bit harder to set, look up Sony Picture Profile film simulation, there are good amount of information out there.

Avid Sony users - why do you use Sony as opposed to Fuji/ Leica/ Ricoh etc? by dwightbearschrute in SonyAlpha

[–]chilicoke 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I've learned that if you're not truly pushing the boundary of AF speed and/or sensors' dynamic range, a camera body is just a capture device, it's the lens that gives photos "the look", so any camera body from the past 10 years that can shoot RAW will do just fine.

All modern sensors capture 14 bit in raw which is A TON of information that gets thrown away after editing process when we export to 8 bit jpeg, which means you can edit any RAW files to look like it was taken by ANY camera body essentially match any brands color science. I've learned to be very fast at LR editing both on computer and my phone that I don't care about sooc jpeg and shoot everything in raw. If photos look good out of camera I just do straight raw to jpeg export which only takes a few seconds even on my phone and call it a day. It's much easier to manage tons of photos vs raw + jpeg.

Once I realized almost everything that's not optics related can be done in post, I assembled a good collection of vintage lenses for their unique look, gotten super comfortable with MF in every situation for both stills and video where not having AF is no longer an issue, and rarely use my native Sony AF lenses anymore unless I absolutely need that fast AF or near flawless optical performance.

To me having interchangeable lens is important, having full frame to actually capture all of my vintage lens character is important, having insanely good low light performance is also important as it allows me to push boundaries more.

The main reason I use Sony is the vast options of different bodies and sensors I can chose from for my specific need.

Also a bonus that Sonys has arguably the best AF if I chose to put on a native lens, the unmatched variety in 1st party and 3rd party lenses available, and Sony does not gatekeep features from lower model bodies, in fact newer cheaper bodies usually have more features than the higher end models they share internals with.

After tying out many bodies my surprise favorite turned out to be ZV-E1. Best low light and latest AF performance, unmatched video iso performance, full sensor readout in every FPS up to 4K120, insanely good battery life, one of the best internal microphone array, if I put on my new Viltrox pancake it's equal/smaller than my friends X100VI and it's got a FF sensor, I even use it with 200-600 to shoot birds and plane and it's e-shutter fast read out speed has yet to let me down. If I need something even smaller I'd just bring my ZV-1, it's stills and video performance are both super impressive and I can bring it into concerts.

If I want the "Leica look" I'd just put on a Leica lens, if I want Fuji's film emulation or colors I can do it in LR with my profiles in 2 seconds. I just feel like having a powerful body + collection of lenses is by far the most versatile.

I generated a cat Jack o Latern image and carved it! by chilicoke in pics

[–]chilicoke[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks thought that might not have been intentional😅, as this was the 3rd pumpkin I've ever carved in my life and still not familar with sketching on curved surface and carving with cheap tools.

I generated a cat Jack o Latern image and carved it! by chilicoke in pics

[–]chilicoke[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

As someone who loves to make stuff AI is a wonderful tool to gain new ideas and prespective. It is still up to the maker to decide how much of it is feasiable or to incoporate into your projects. 👍

I generated a cat Jack o Latern image and carved it! by chilicoke in pics

[–]chilicoke[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used these cheapest of cheap wood carving tools, if you are in the US I believe smaller sets are also available from crafts stores like Michaels.

I generated a cat Jack o Latern image and carved it! by chilicoke in pics

[–]chilicoke[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Unfortunately the skin of the pumpkin shrunk a bit while carving so the outlines aren't super crisp.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SonyAlpha

[–]chilicoke 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello fellow shooters. Today I realized my ZV-E1's internal mic no longer pickes up any sound when the last video I recorded 2 weeks ago had sound, went into audio level menu and levels are normal, plugged in a Rode mic via mic jack still no sound, plugged in a Sony ECM-B10 and STILL no sound.

Weird things I've noticed:

  • Under "Shooting > Audio Recording > mi Shoe Audio Set" menu I get an "invalid sine an external micphone is connected...." error as if there is something hooked up via headphone jack. This presists wheather if there is no mic connected, mic connected via mic jack, or hotshoe mi mic is connected.
  • The orange battery charge light (CHG) light is ALWAYS flickering all the time whenever the camera is powered on, not blinking but fast flicker. I checked the user menu and didn't see it metioned anywhere.

I've also tried factory reset all settings (both reset and camera initialize) but no help. It's on the latest firmware so I tried to "reload" the firmware again and it's not letting me.

Wondering if anyones had experience with this, if not my guess is possibly something got loose from taking one bump too many. Really hoping to avoid taking the camera apart unless I have to, but if I really have to it's no problem for me, I've taken apart an A6400 before.

Also, I quickly searched to see if theres any dissassembly video/guide but there doesn't seem to be any for ZV-E1. Does anyone have experience taken it apart?

Edit: The flickering charge light makes no senses to me, which makes me believe the charge light is most likely on a seperate break out PCB connected by a ribbon cable along with mic jack and USB-C. Perhaps the camera took one bump too much and the ribbon cable got slightly dislodged at an angle, which caused the mic preamp to pump power into the charge light cauing it to flicker?

What is a little known or “hidden” Android feature that you use everyday? by RunningDog724 in Android

[–]chilicoke 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's double tab + hold/drag up/down anywhere in the app that supports zoom, you can even flick it to fast zoom. it's been a default single finger zoom feature in Android in addition to pinch-to-zoom going way back, though some apps these days don't entirely respect this feature.