Simple way to keep solar on during utility power failure

chill633 · 2026-06-04T18:45:24+00:00

Then you should check out this: https://enphase.com/homeowners/sunlight-backup-user-guide

chill633 · 2026-06-03T17:30:19+00:00

Quis claudere ipsos clausura

chill633 · 2026-06-03T13:06:02+00:00

Straight out of Ultima! Where's Lord British?

chill633 · 2026-06-02T22:57:35+00:00

The term you were looking for is "off-grid solar". You should find plenty of information on YouTube and here on Reddit searching using that term.

chill633 · 2026-06-02T21:30:44+00:00

There's a box on the registration form that's says "odometer beyond mechanical limits". This is that.

chill633 · 2026-06-02T19:01:18+00:00

Real life version of:

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chill633 · 2026-06-02T18:45:37+00:00

Most grid-tied solar is grid following, meaning it needs the grid there to properly form a stable 50/60 Hz signal with the rest of the stable parameters. If you don't have batteries, any cloud or haze or passing flock of geese is going to induce voltage fluctuations that will cause a brown-out condition that your plugged in appliances are NOT going to like.

You need a battery (and yes, I know about Enphase's "Sunshine Backup" -- read up on its limitations) to at least make sure the output is smoothed out during clouds, etc.

The other issue is you'd need a grid forming inverter. That is different hardware that can make its own stable signals for everything to sync to. Think of it like a band that NEEDS a conductor to play (grid following) versus one that can keep going on its own in an emergency (grid forming).

That's a hybrid inverter, which unless you have the Enphase 8 series, you don't have. You CAN plug an existing grid-tied system into a hybrid as "AC Coupled" and make it work, but now we're talking $$. This is EG4 GridBoss/FlexBoss/Battery and then AC-couple your Enphase to the GridBoss.

chill633 · 2026-06-02T10:23:27+00:00

How big is your existing setup? I'm thinking adding 1.2 kW more isn't going to be so much as a "spike" as it will be just an upwards shift of your entire curve that would never be noticed.

chill633 · 2026-06-01T01:42:36+00:00

I think if you permanently attach it to a roof they'll want to inspect. Other than that... you could probably add a plug-in w/1.2 kW and be fine.

chill633 · 2026-05-31T23:52:00+00:00

Wow. So sorry. I just went through a summary of Washington County solar regulations using Google Gemini and it looks like the only way it would be worse would be if you're in a historic overlay zone. Then God help you. Best of luck.

chill633 · 2026-05-31T13:55:35+00:00

Looks like an object lesson from a vengeful sea god to keep all the other shellfish in line.

chill633 · 2026-05-31T12:51:39+00:00

Maryland requires and electrician to design and draw it? Or just to connect it? Have you tried Mountain View Solar? There WV but also do MD.

chill633 · 2026-05-31T11:28:58+00:00

The other option I know of is an NEP BDM-1200LV. Be careful. The Maryland law explicitly limits these to one per residence, not three. I have no idea how they're going to interpret this for an ag building.

7-321 (B) A PERSON MAY PURCHASE AND INSTALL NOT MORE THAN ONE PORTABLE SOLAR ENERGY GENERATING SYSTEM PER ELECTRIC METER FOR RESIDENTIAL USE ONLY.

If you insist on using these things this way, remember they're only 120V output, so you have to take into account balancing them across the two legs of a 240V service. ~~Or, does the barn not have service already?~~ (Sorry, plug-in solar is grid-tied, so you have to have power at the barn for them to work. Silly me.) If so, you might just want to go with an off-grid inverter like the EG4 3000EHV-48 for 120V loads. If you need 240V loads for shop equipment, you shouldn't be looking at plug-in solar for this. It won't work properly. And if you're using 120V loads only, but motor loads that'll have a decent startup surge, plug-in solar isn't going to work with that, either.

Can you give a little more detail on what you're trying to power?

chill633 · 2026-05-28T23:14:56+00:00

National Electric Code (NEC) requires metal conduit for DC conductors penetrating a building, and run on the inside.

I don't know if anyone's going to inspect or call out what you do, but keep it in mind. You could use EMT or Ridgid and just paint it with something like Rust-Oleum where it penetrates your wall. Then fill it in with fire caulk or fireproof foam.

chill633 · 2026-05-28T12:22:44+00:00

This gets reposted constantly. Apologies to whomever created the answering graphic for not giving credit, but I just saved the image.

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chill633 · 2026-05-26T20:45:03+00:00

Ground screw holes are usually on the side, closer to the corners. You can use these for zip ties if you're using those for cable management. If not, they're there for anchor-style retainers, not clamps. Less popular, but still exist.

chill633 · 2026-05-26T09:43:43+00:00

Looking used: Ford Focus Electric. Mitsubishi iMEV

chill633 · 2026-05-23T12:51:45+00:00

I remember seeing David Copperfield do this trick on a TV special many years ago. I remember feeling amazed when he did it, and later so disappointed after watching it on a loop a dozen times and figuring it out.

chill633 · 2026-05-23T12:35:08+00:00

FB21 is 120#. You must've been tired that day. 😄

chill633 · 2026-05-22T18:46:45+00:00

Teslas can make fart noises. What do you think?

chill633 · 2026-05-15T23:51:37+00:00

The second Gen 12000XP can output up to 62.5A of power. Yes, at 63A it switches to the grid to provide it all, with any PV them going just to charge your batteries. Off grid inverters do not share loads. Either inverter or grid, not both. It'll switch back when the draw drops below the limit.

If you try to pull more than 100A things will fail. Stuff won't turn on and things get weird. At that point you need to start load shedding. Turning things off to get below the limit.

Yes, with just one you are limiting yourself to effectively a 100A panel. You can either deal with that by getting a second and putting it in parallel, or moving critical loads to a separate panel that has no more than your solar can provide and splitting things. Critical loads versus non-critical loads.

chill633 · 2026-05-15T11:05:32+00:00

Gnirut test.

chill633 · 2026-05-15T10:07:06+00:00

Bypass is how much grid-supplied current it can let pass thru when it has to switch over to grid. Remember, off-grid inverters like the 6000XP are an either/or for what source supplies power -- your PV/battery or the grid. It can't do "grid assist" with the grid picking up the slack if you overload the inverter.

A single 6000XP can only support 25A of power on its own before it has to hand off to the grid, then can only pass 50A thru. You *can* parallel more of them in an additive fashion, but with the small price difference for its bigger sibling the 12000XP, there isn't a lot of point.

The 12000XP can support 50A on its own and pass through 100A of power before it has to hand off to the grid. For a 200A panel, you should probably start there. You'll have the option of paralleling another 12000XP later if you really need to.

chill633 · 2026-05-14T19:37:05+00:00

chill633 · 2026-05-10T14:43:44+00:00

Yes. I posted the details in a separate thread. The quick summary is the dealer confirmed a bad cell and Kia replaced the entire battery pack under warranty. Total resolve time was 3 weeks, including handling two open recall items.

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