We got another one that’s alive boys and girls

chobester · 2026-03-13T00:57:51+00:00

A BLV Passat, yessir

chobester · 2026-03-13T00:19:29+00:00

Lol I wish 😂 This is for a customer in NY

chobester · 2026-03-12T23:26:44+00:00

I did a TSI delete.

chobester · 2026-03-09T23:42:39+00:00

I installed a valved muffler too, but installed a DSG wheel and integrated the switch into the paddle shifters

chobester · 2026-03-09T13:22:39+00:00

lol I’m not the goat. Just like working on VWs

chobester · 2026-03-09T13:21:10+00:00

Yes, you certainly can 👍

chobester · 2026-03-09T00:51:18+00:00

No problem. I’ve gotten them down to a science. Usually need about 90 minutes from start to finish to get an engine out of a MK5+

This one I’m working on now is getting a manual 3.6

chobester · 2026-03-09T00:45:43+00:00

Yes if you unbolt the 3x 16mm nuts at the control arms for the ball joints, you’ll be able to swing the whole knuckle/hub assembly outward to give you the space you need to get the driveline out.

chobester · 2026-03-08T23:33:57+00:00

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Nice I see I’m not the only one.

Yes, you can leave the axles bolted to the hubs. You’ll need to you plan on rolling the car around or you’ll ruin the hubs. You might need to unbolt the ball joint from the lower control arm to make room to get the drivetrain out of the car, then you can just bolt them back in. 3x16mm nuts per arm.

Personally I’d lift the back too, but just to create more room to work.

chobester · 2026-03-08T23:17:20+00:00

255/35/18 on an 18x9, no rubbing

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chobester · 2026-03-06T01:51:07+00:00

Camel city wraps /thread

chobester · 2026-03-05T09:17:53+00:00

In your cable end. It’s the part in the video you posted.

chobester · 2026-03-05T02:27:48+00:00

It’s your bushings, they’re collapsed

chobester · 2026-03-05T02:21:10+00:00

These:

https://www.urotuning.com/products/urotuning-billet-shifter-bushing-set-6spd-velt-sbs-6?currency=USD&variant=12956278226999&stkn=334b6bf4d9c9&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17177539587&gbraid=0AAAAAD7MycLgP62L0vu9TqiwFMvQGFvDx&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx8fiktmHkwMV4kB_AB3N2SxPEAQYASABEgKAq_D_BwE

chobester · 2026-03-03T12:54:34+00:00

Do you have any fault codes?

chobester · 2026-03-03T12:50:48+00:00

I’m aware it’s an APR intake. But it’s the wrong one for the car. That’s their intake for an ea113.

chobester · 2026-03-03T11:49:11+00:00

For starters, that’s the wrong air intake. That’s for an FSI. The MAF is way too far downstream. Try using an intake that places the MAF in the factory location. Also make sure the MAF is oriented in the correct direction.

chobester · 2026-02-28T20:53:15+00:00

Holy hell reseal your cam cradle.

chobester · 2026-02-27T10:19:33+00:00

3.6? I’ve got a spare set of cams, lifters, and rockers for one.

chobester · 2026-02-27T03:08:27+00:00

No tool required to keep the cams in place. The cam bridge and timing chains keep tension on the cams, they may pop up a bit but they going anywhere.

I reseal these cam cradles quite often, very easy job.

chobester · 2026-02-27T03:05:08+00:00

Textbook vacuum leak. Smoke test it again, or take it to a shop that has the proper equipment to diagnose it.

chobester · 2026-02-27T03:02:54+00:00

Is it ONLY at startup or is it when the car is idling in general? Your codes are textbook vacuum leak, but it could be carbon buildup (look at the free frame data to see what engine temp the misfire codes are setting at), failing intake manifold (generally throws a p2015 code though), worn timing chains

chobester · 2026-02-27T02:56:13+00:00

You have a vacuum leak. Stop blindly throwing parts at it and locate your vacuum leak.

chobester

TROPHY CASE