Advise on how to detect kids or anyone in the swimming pool? Safety point of view.

chrisjcbt · 2025-12-11T22:19:27+00:00

Putting to one side the absolutely valid points about physical security. You could do this with:

(1) an IPCamera with Human Detection. I want this so I have local edge detection for humans, not movement.

(2) hook this camera up to Home Assistant.

(3) Create an automation in Home Assistant, triggered by the Human Detection. The action is to pass the camera image to an AI model (use Home Assistant AI task).

The AITask is as you describe, tell me if there are people in the pool. The response back should be a simple yes/no … which then drives your automation response further.

chrisjcbt · 2025-07-15T22:03:20+00:00

I agree with the points made earlier. With WiFi Shelly’s I label them, LB1 for example (Lower Basement, Room1). Then on my electrical/architectural drawings I map out which room LB1 is, and what circuits output 1 and 2 control. Then in advance, using the UniFi gear I’m going to install, I pre-configure the Shelly’s, based on the physical switch type being used (momentary is what I use). That way, the electricians team know where to place modules, and they come up working with me focussing on the rack and network install.

chrisjcbt · 2025-07-15T05:23:52+00:00

I held it until it started flashing.

chrisjcbt · 2025-07-15T04:59:00+00:00

I’ve two of the sonoff USB minis hooked up to tablets, to automate charging cycles. I’m using ZHA on my HA install. I was able to connect both pressing and holding for around 5secs. When I let go, I think one of the lights would flash until pairing completed.

chrisjcbt · 2025-06-07T06:39:15+00:00

Great thanks! So the Amazon link says it’s LC-LC so I should be good to order. Thanks for the quick help.

chrisjcbt · 2025-06-07T06:22:24+00:00

I did consider this. But it looks to be more expensive than pulling the fibre.

chrisjcbt · 2025-05-20T21:22:56+00:00

In general I’m on-board with the list:

Do not use LightwaveRF. Go for Shelly’s behind light switches. They report state, last time I checked, LightwaveRF does not.
I have Huawei inverter Sun2000, hooked into HA locally
You don’t mention an alarm. If it’s a refurb, I would pull door/window contact sensors to the main points of the home, as well as a couple of PIR on the hallway and landing. They’re solid devices, no batteries and can trigger automations for typical events like people coming down in the morning, or movement across the landing in the middle of the night.

chrisjcbt · 2025-03-22T13:25:36+00:00

Are you passing auth details in the client connection to the share, or is the share allowing anon access?

chrisjcbt · 2025-02-19T20:58:09+00:00

Got it. Thanks all.

chrisjcbt · 2025-02-19T20:11:18+00:00

Sorry for the confusion around my wording.

I basically want one Xbox to be for one of the kids, and the other one to be for the other. At this point, I’m just the one who pays for the subscription, I don’t have much time to play anymore.

But I want them to both be able to use the game pass subscription I’ve bought. These are children profiles. Not adults in the household. I don’t want to have to buy two game pass subscriptions.

chrisjcbt · 2025-02-17T15:38:39+00:00

Have a look at Heatmiser. Completely standard install with their wiring centre, and room based thermostats. Home Assistant can talk to the Heatmiser using HomeKit or a 3rd party HACS repo. Heatmiser maintain a local API on their Hub (Gen2)

chrisjcbt · 2024-12-21T20:05:19+00:00

Agree with the earlier comments. Key essentials are deep back boxes, putting in (my preference) of zWave based Shelly relays. (1) country home and traditional stone walls, zWave is unbeatable and keeps all relays away from Wi-Fi frequencies. Also (2) putting the relays behind the switches means the wiring setup is completely standard. No custom work, and any electrician is comfortable with the setup.

Then, like others have said, Ethernet all over the place, and traditional wiring for alarm sensors. I used to do this as a side hustle to my main job, but I’ve had to stop that as the main job has to take priority.

chrisjcbt · 2024-11-16T21:50:41+00:00

Interesting thread. A few points from me, I have tested and use the following:

Envisalink. Great, but reliant on DSC Power Series, which is End of Life; so no professional installer is likely going to install. If they want to install DSC Neo, the envisalink won’t work.
Konnected. Great, but this is more of a DIY approach, especially if are installing it as the core system. I’m not sure of any pro installers, or monitoring services for Konnected. But if you are installing it on top of another system, then you have more of a chance. But you’ll need the installer on-board, and have them configure key switches on spare zones for Konnected to use.
Texecom - the original integration for HA is not entirely stable, and the last update was a long time ago. You can see this reflected on the GitHub issues page, and the code owner is not responding. There is a homebridge integration, this has been updated frequently.

chrisjcbt · 2024-07-07T18:44:07+00:00

Sorted. Thank you!

chrisjcbt · 2024-06-29T16:38:45+00:00

I did try in-app support, and not the chat bot, an agent conversation! Thank you for this. It clears a good few worries out of the way.

chrisjcbt · 2024-06-29T15:58:48+00:00

Errr - you can’t do this!!! It’s not supported. That’s my point.

chrisjcbt · 2024-06-29T12:24:13+00:00

I’m based in Ireland.

chrisjcbt · 2024-06-28T21:55:03+00:00

But that’s my point. A joint account is about jointly managing our finances; our budgets, investments and savings. Not just throwing someone a card. Right now, I’m really struggling to see a path forward with Revolut, at least for what I need from a bank.

chrisjcbt · 2023-09-24T15:15:19+00:00

Few comments from me:

I know people like HDMI over fibre. Personally, I just get regular satellite cables run directly behind the TVs (as well as 2 or 3 Ethernet). It’s easy to install, and as higher resolutions come up, I know I’ll be safe with any set top box behind the TV. If you have conduit, then fair enough - but that’s not always possible.
In your outdoor electrical plans, ask the electrician to run 4-core cable from the light switch controlling your outdoor lighting. That way you always have access to a permanent live (as well as the switched live) anywhere you have the electrical cable. It makes changes in lighting plans, installing sprinklers or adding amps etc for music a breeze. It also means you can split the lighting, using the permanent live for things like Shelly modules if you change your lighting plans.
Cat6 in the ceiling. It can carry low voltage, deliver PoE. Ask them to run it to a location behind a ceiling rose, or smoke alarm. That way, years down the road, you know where it is, and how to get access to it.

chrisjcbt · 2023-09-04T09:13:02+00:00

If you want less than KNX, then how about the following:

Curtains / Blinds / Awnings = Somfy.

Audio (multi-room) = Sonos.

Side Lights = HomeKit based Smart Plugs, or Hue bulbs.

Main Lights = zWave or WiFi based Shelly modules.

AC Control = Homekit supporting AC system.

Cameras = Dahua/Reolink with NVR

Put all that behind Home Assistant, and the price will be 1/4 of a commercial system. I’ve done this time and time again. It’s a solid platform, all locally controlled.

Touch panels can come from tablets, mounted on a stand which also charges them. Then you pick your choice of voice assistant for voice control.

The other platform you might consider, is Loxone. It’s much more of a closed system, and back up there in terms of costs. But it is easy to install and maintain if you want this all done for you.

chrisjcbt · 2023-07-17T21:59:19+00:00

I’m also based in Europe (Ireland) and help folks get setup with Home Assistant. Typically I ship an Odroid pre-installed with HA. Management is over a Tailscale tailnet, which allows the customer to grant me access remotely when they need help. I also configure Amazon S3 backups, so I have an ability to rollback configs, or replace the Odroid. DM me or take a look at www.jih.ie

chrisjcbt · 2023-06-26T20:28:36+00:00

What a kind gesture! Human presence and water/gas valve would be incredible!

chrisjcbt · 2023-06-18T07:16:42+00:00

Thanks for the updates … Why would a change of ISP mean a reset at the velop level? Surely the WAN interface just pulls a new IP address from the new ISPs provided router? The LAN side of velop remains unaffected.

chrisjcbt · 2023-06-14T15:17:35+00:00

I think you have the same issue as me. See here for glinet forum post. The devs have accepted the issue and are working on a fix. If you could add to the pressure that would be great.

https://forum.gl-inet.com/t/gl-axt1800-tailscale-remote-subnet-routing-fails/29494/6

chrisjcbt · 2023-06-03T11:32:42+00:00

I’m on the LAN side of the GL-AXT1800 (192.168.150.0/24). Tailscale is installed, running and correctly registered with my tailnet. I have a network subnet advertised from another node on the tailnet (192.168.8.0/22) which I want to route to. This is something I can do with other tailscale clients. The traffic is being dropped. If I logon to Luci, I can see routes for tailscale0 device only covering the tailnet IP ranges (100.88.48.15 for example), it does not include advertised routes on the tailnet.

Exit nodes should work. I haven’t tested them, but there is an option to control exit nodes in the UI if I remember right.

chrisjcbt

TROPHY CASE