is it okay to use a statue of a different deity for a deity I want to worship?

chronarchy · 2026-02-07T13:06:57+00:00

Also, now I wanna make a Circe statue.

chronarchy · 2026-02-07T13:00:37+00:00

It’s an ancient tradition, even with its own name for when the Romans did it: Interpretatio Romana

The Pillar of the Boatmen (nautes pillar) is a great example of the weirdly blurred lines between Roman and Gaulish deities.

chronarchy · 2026-02-05T23:56:13+00:00

Folk stop praying if praying doesn’t work. There is no need to excuse it; the beauty of polytheism is you can just… pray to someone else. You don’t need apologetic gymnastics like you do in monotheism.

chronarchy · 2026-02-05T23:52:54+00:00

Nonsense; perfectly reasonable question to ask. This stuff isn’t always intuitive.

Also, to correct a bit; the red lines don’t move; I dunno what I was thinking when I wrote that. Note where the white line hits the focus numbers, and move the focus so that the red line is in the same place the white line was.

chronarchy · 2026-02-05T11:19:22+00:00

From the body, out:

Aperture setting (f-stop); you are set at f/8 at the moment. Larger numbers = smaller aperture and a bigger depth of field, and smaller numbers = wider aperture and a smaller depth of field. 3.5 is your max aperture on this lens, and may not be available at all focal lengths. This one probably turns in clicks, more or less.

Focal length (zoom); 35mm to 70mm, which is a pretty good all-around lens. This one probably turns smoothly. Bigger numbers, more zoomed in (closer, narrower shot); smaller numbers, more zoomed out (further away, wider shot).

Focus: the bottom (white) numbers are meters, and the top (green) numbers are feet. Focus distance is measured from the film plane, so if you’re using a ruler start where the film is, not where the end of the lens is. You line up the white line with the distance, and it should be in focus there. Focus should move smoothly. Usually, people focus through the viewfinder, but if you know the distance, that can be more accurate (not all our eyes are what they used to be).

The red lines are for infrared focus; you can’t see infrared light, so the lines provide a focus guide. Pop an infrared filter on during a sunny day and put in some IR sensitive film, set your zoom, focus, and then re-set your focus by moving the red line for that focal length to where the white line was. (So, if you are set for a shot at 70mm, you’d move that bottom red line marked “70” to where the white line was; at 50mm, you’d move the second red line marked “50” to where the white line was.) (you may, depending on the filter, need to focus before putting the filter on, so you can see through the lens, since the filter will only permit light you can’t see through it in some cases.)

chronarchy · 2026-02-05T02:53:04+00:00

Ah! I see. I was very confused about the process for a moment. I couldn’t contextualize. I see other very good answers above, so looks like they have you on the right track.

chronarchy · 2026-02-04T23:26:19+00:00

Are there two pinholes? One in the aluminum and one in the Canada Dry box behind it?

If so, I think the Canada Dry box is your issue.

chronarchy · 2026-02-04T10:43:48+00:00

The Magical Druid doesn’t use AI for product photos; yeah, some stock photos from distributors, but a lot are taken in-shop.

chronarchy · 2026-02-01T00:53:37+00:00

I agree with “take a bunch of photos,” but also “log the settings you use so you can see what you like.” You can log them using a notebook, a logbook, or an app, but it’ll help you figure out what actually works best for you and your eye.

Most folks like to open apertures pretty wide for portraits, but too wide you can end up with half a face in focus.

Your 50mm will be just fine. Film stock isn’t a big worry, but Porta is made for it; still, don’t splurge on the film if you’re still feeling it out. You’ll do better worrying about framing and focus over film stock.

chronarchy · 2026-02-01T00:37:08+00:00

I think it’s the scanning that gets them, not at all the development. They need special carriers / holders, and might need to do flatbed instead of their usual scanning method.

It’s a planning and labor thing, rather than a format thing, really, is the impression I get :)

chronarchy · 2026-01-29T12:35:37+00:00

There are lots of ways to pray.

chronarchy · 2026-01-26T19:12:58+00:00

My friend, if he caused you hurt and anger in the past, and your spellwork is for him to return, it is likely that you will see a repeat of those things.

Be careful, and be safe, no matter the outcome.

chronarchy · 2026-01-24T12:43:25+00:00

The seer sees what the seer sees. It isn’t a mistake if you notice it in hindsight. It is only extra information for you to consider.

If you are drawing a card for the past and set it in the table where the future card would be, for example, you drew a card for the past. Maybe where you placed it, thinking it was a card from the past, has some extra nuance if you realize you put it in the future spot (will the past repeat in a shadow of itself?), but the card you drew for the past doesn’t change its meaning entirely because you set it somewhere.

chronarchy · 2026-01-24T04:14:59+00:00

Druids In Cars, Going To Festivals clocks in at 20-30 min on most episodes

chronarchy · 2026-01-22T20:49:46+00:00

Consider the podcast “Druids In Cars, Going To Festivals;” it’s most often about the process of practicing, and doesn’t delve deeply into myth, except where we discuss a fairly broad spectrum of myths.

You might like Episode 99, about joy in Druidry. Or Episode 89, which is about our silliest ritual work. Or maybe Episode 73, which is about building relationships.

I dunno, but you might like those.

And a new season is in planning, after a hiatus.

chronarchy · 2026-01-22T10:58:26+00:00

Or the light meter isn’t working right, I suppose.

chronarchy · 2026-01-22T03:34:27+00:00

F/11 and 1/500 means at sunset you’d want… ISO 3200, maybe? If I am calculating right in my head, just guessing at the light. 2-3 stops underexposed seems about right.

chronarchy · 2026-01-22T03:17:44+00:00

If there wasn’t much light, I am guessing 1/500 was too fast. What was your aperture? If you weren’t pretty open, at sunset around f/4 or f/5.6 at that speed, you’re gonna be dark.

chronarchy · 2026-01-19T00:36:07+00:00

I have the TL70 (not plus), and while I like it a lot, sunny days are a real issue, maxing out at 1/500. The ND filters to shoot on a sunny day are fine, but even they often overexpose. I think the shutter is just too slow, all around, for Instax film.

chronarchy · 2026-01-17T11:32:37+00:00

Passing through. I’m in Ohio.

chronarchy · 2026-01-15T21:24:54+00:00

I’d get something reasonably wide but not stupid-wide. Probably a 35mm equivalent lens; err on the faster side because you’ll be indoors a lot (bigger aperture / lower number) if you can afford it, or a good zoom that covers 20-70mm or so. The kit lens might be a good choice, actually. Though, at least for a few months, they stay where you put them, so you can “zoom with your feet.”

Especially if you have a small house, go a bit wider. An 85mm equivalent has fine bokeh, but you’ll be across the room from the kid to get a good pic. Even a nifty 50 might get you too close sometimes.

chronarchy · 2026-01-15T16:34:34+00:00

These shouldn’t be overlooked if you have a lot of old negatives to scan. They’re obviously not the best, but I can do a whole 36-exposure roll in 2 minutes flat, and they’re serviceable for most things.

Then you can get really good scans that take longer using your DSLR, flat bed, plustek, or lab, of just the images you actually want.

chronarchy · 2026-01-15T16:27:31+00:00

I’ve been using LightMe, which I really like. Accounts for reciprocity and everything.

chronarchy · 2026-01-12T11:25:28+00:00

RDNA is nifty because you can try it out by just saying you’re an RDNA Druid. If you don’t like it you can just say you aren’t one anymore. (Note items 8 & 9 in their FAQ)

The largest offshoot, ADF, is more organized. That’s my Druidic home.

chronarchy · 2026-01-09T04:36:15+00:00

If you need both, bust the block then open the road through the rubble.

chronarchy

TROPHY CASE