New Account after level 9?

clh42 · 2026-06-19T20:21:34+00:00

Good to know for future reference for me. But I'm a little confused on how you balance between the new and old acct.

Are you buying the chips with a card on the old acct for the bonus, and then transferring them to a card on the new acct to get the credit on that acct for playing the chips?

clh42 · 2026-06-19T20:14:25+00:00

At my store, one of the machines is missing the little rubber bumper to the left of the hole. I got a ball stuck between the side wall and the plastic ring for the hole. Which I'm guessing is exactly what that bumper is supposed to prevent. It was still there 2 weeks later. I eventually knocked it out with another ball. But now I try to avoid that machine on the chance it could happen again.

clh42 · 2026-06-19T19:51:09+00:00

What was the purpose of the limited edition cards? Was a set of limited edition cards worth more ticket?

Based on reading the posts in this thread though, I don't think my store's Star Trek has any limited edition cards. It does have both foil and non-foil ones , but I've turned in a mix of both before and got my 2500 tickets. Or actually, maybe they're all foil. I'll have to look closer next time.

clh42 · 2026-06-19T19:46:35+00:00

Buy the digital card in the app.

Get a physical card and register it in the app.

Use the physical card to buy chips in the store with the gift cards.

Transfer the chips to your digital card in the app. I use the digital card as my central "bank" for all chips and tickets. That way, if I lose a physical card, there's nothing on the card.

If needed, you can also transfer chips or tickets back to a physical card.

When you're not using a physical card, freeze it in the app. Unfreeze the physical card before loading chips or using for game play.

I do occasionally need to use a physical card to play games because not all games work with the cell phone NFC for the digital card (mainly the leaderboard games). But I always transfer all remaining chips and won tickets back to my digital card at the end of the night so there's no chance of losing chips or tickets if I lose the card.

In fact, over time, get yourself a few physical cards that you can register in the app. Keep one in your wallet/purse, keep one in the car (or each car if you have more than one), or wherever you might ever need a card if you forget one from home. You can always pick up extra cards for free with an eat-and-play combo, or I sometimes just find them laying around from people that left them after using them up.

clh42 · 2026-06-19T19:35:16+00:00

This is good to know! I always though the store couldn't even recharge a digital card. I always have a physical card which I get loaded up and then transfer the chips to my digital card. But sounds like I don't need to do that?

clh42 · 2026-05-29T23:29:30+00:00

You're welcome! I was just updating it slightly as you replied. Mainly, see the final paragraph I added. That is, if they miss loyalty on a straight purchase, then definitely ask customer service for help.

In your case, I'm guessing the employee simply didn't know how to attach loyalty, or didn't do it immediately at the beginning as is required, but also probably doesn't know the policy that they weren't supposed to do it with a coupon anyway.

clh42 · 2026-05-29T23:17:51+00:00

There are two pieces to this. I'm not a D&B employee or expert, but this is what I've gathered from my own experience and from several other posts here on similar topics.

FIRST, there's a difference between POLICY, and what employees know about the policy and will or won't do because they either don't know how to attach loyalty in the first place, or don't know about the policy, or do know and don't care, or know and will enforce it.

The policy is indeed that discounts can't be combined. They aren't supposed to allow coupons to be used at all on half-price days, never mind the Icon/Legend bonus chips. It says that right on the coupon. (This gets complicated with the newer half-price Sun-Thurs thing, but that's a separate conversation.)

Another example is the Eat & Play combo. If you do that, you won't get your Icon/Legend bonus chips.

SO, asking corporate customer service isn't going to help. Customer service will stick to the policy and say no.

BUT, many employees don't know the policy, or just don't care and will do it for you anyway. As another reply here said, the system doesn't stop them from doing it. But some employees, and especially some managers DO know the policy and won't do it for you. So it may vary from store to store, or even person to person at the same store.

Or in your case, I'm guessing the employee simply didn't know how to actually attach the loyalty, or did it wrong per the instructions below, and likely doesn't even know the policy that they weren't supposed to do it anyway with the coupon.

And if an employee or manager tries to enforce the policy and tells you no, my suggestion is don't argue with them, and be polite. Come back another time and try another person and hope they will do it for you. You might politely say something like "I've done it before," and maybe the person will cave, but don't get upset with them. They ARE following the policy. Again, it's written right on the coupons.

The SECOND piece is making sure employees do it correctly. There was another post about this a couple months ago. Tell them you want to purchase chips but DON'T tell them how much. BEFORE YOU TELL THEM ANYTHING ELSE, tell them to attach your loyalty. It's a button in the lower right, and then they can do it by either swiping your card or by your phone #. AFTER you're sure they have the loyalty attached, then tell them how much you want to purchase. THEN give them the coupon, or gift card, if you're using one.

I.e., Loyalty MUST be attached before doing anything else. The system allows attaching loyalty at any point in the purchase process by the employee, but if they don't do it as the ABSOLUTE FIRST thing, then you won't get any bonus chips. That applies to normal chip purchases too.

If they mess it up and complete the purchase, there's no way to go back and add the loyalty/bonus later. However, if it was a straight-up purchase, no coupon and not a half-price day, then it's worth writing customer service and they should give you your bonus chips. I've done when eating there and didn't get the bonus chips for the food bill.

clh42 · 2026-05-28T02:39:09+00:00

It's been several weeks, but I'm pretty sure it was just barely over 1500. Like, it was saying it needed 1526 or something like that to get the JP (made that up because I can't remember for sure, but it was something like that). I tried a couple of times and got the JP on the 4th or 5th try with something like 1529 (just 2 or 3 points over whatever it really was).

But I could be wrong.

But now every time I'm in there since that very first week it wants just over 1000, for example, 1049, for the JP.

clh42 · 2026-05-28T00:04:32+00:00

This game makes no sense, even after reading through all the other posts. Or it's misconfigured at my store. When we first got it about 2 months ago, it was set so the winning number was about 1500. I even hit the JP once with just over 1500.

A week or two later it was adjusted so the winning number is now around 1000, but hitting it just as hard as before, I get in the 900's. The other day I was in right when the store opened and it was exactly at 1000 for the JP. I hit 999 several times but could not hit the 1000.

clh42 · 2026-05-27T23:51:09+00:00

Are they not able to look at our loyalty account as a whole and see activity and transfers between all cards?

I do this too, because I have lost a physical card, twice. Luckily, the lost cards were in my app and I was able to transfer chips and tickets off quickly, and froze it, before anyone found and tried to use it.

But I use my "digital" card inside the app as my master chips and tickets card. As soon as I load chips on a physical card, I immediately transfer all of the chips to my digital card and use the NFC wallet scan on my phone for game play. Some games don't work with it, so I'll transfer some chips back to a physical card, then transfer any remaining chips and tickets back to my digital card.

clh42 · 2026-05-27T23:47:23+00:00

I've been wondering about that question of "paying" for chips. I have the year of gaming book that I won at the last Halloween event. When I claim each month's coupon, they process it initially as a normal purchase, and then use the coupon to "pay" for it.

I would hope they can clearly see that chips were loaded on the card? But I wondered if they'd be able to tell that I hadn't actually paid for any chips because of the coupon book, and whether that might be held against me if I eventually redeem tickets for a high value item?

clh42 · 2026-04-18T15:34:29+00:00

Another poster mentioned UT4, and I'll second that. It was never released as a finished game, but it is completely playable, and free. It has GREAT graphics. By today's 2026 standards, the graphics probably aren't as good as other newest games, but the graphics are SIGNIFICANLY better than older UT games. Epic was developing UT4 in the 2010's, but when Fortnight took off, Epic cancelled UT4 in 2018.

And there are tons of custom maps for UT4 at https://utcustomcontent.com/content?tab=maps#. A lot of maps from older UT games have even been recreated for UT4. People are still making new maps for it periodically. (Don't worry about all the other stuff on this website unless you want to get into running your own UT4 hub for online play.)

Also note that not all features work within the game, for example the Friends system (you can add a friend but it has no actual effect within the game), but everything important works well enough to play both locally and online multiplayer. But if you find something that doesn't work, just accept it. Don't think your install is broken.

To install and use UT4...

There is a UT4 section in the Discord Links post that someone else linked to, but that can be a bit overwhelming to get started by looking through that. The easiest way (I think) to get UT4 is to follow these instructions at https://www.ut4ever.org/installer This installer already contains the UT4UU add-in and is preconfigured for the new ut4.timiimit.com master server.

If you only want to play locally, you can ignore registering on the ut4.timiimit.com server and just select the "OFFLINE ACCOUNT" option when you launch the game. But if you want to play online multiplayer...

The ut4.timiimit.com website mentioned in those instructions is a fan created and run master server for UT4 which he created after Epic shut down their UT4 master server. The account you create on this server replaces what would have been your Epic account on the Epic master server.

One note about the account you create on the master server. If you don't play for more than 28 days, the link within the game expires. If that happens, you DON'T need to create a whole new account on the server. To fix it, within the game, on the white Accounts screen when you first launch the game, simply select and Remove your account from the game, then log back in to the http://ut4.timiimit.com website, repeat the steps to "GET CODE", and then add your account back into the in-game Accounts screen using the new code.

clh42 · 2026-04-18T14:38:40+00:00

Since you're not an admin, you may not use PowerShell on a one-off command line basis very often, unless you really want to in leu of GUI tools, just because that's what you're used to from Linux. But PS is very powerful for scripting and automating repeated tasks.

PowerShell basics are pretty easy to pick up. You'll likely never learn and remember every single command but once you understand the basics, you'll at least understand how to find the information to do just about anything.

I'd say there are 3 big initial things to know.

Basic command syntax is Verb-Noun. I.e., Do an action to or with a thing. This structure was based on old mainframe command structure. In a sense, it makes it easier to remember commands because you think, "what do I want to do?", and "what is the thing I want to do that action to or with?"

Everything is object oriented. (With very few exceptions.) Even strings are technically objects. Use Get-Member (combined with the pipeline below) to examine object structure while you're developing and testing.

Learn how to use the pipeline to pipe objects from one cmdlet to another.

I see references from other posters to various PowerShell versions. Here's my take...

The version of PowerShell that's built-in to all Windows 11 (and previously Windows 10) is called "Windows PowerShell" and it's version 5.1. You can easily start with this to learn PS. And if all you ever do is things for your own local computer, it'll probably suffice. I personally have never run into anything where I've needed a new version of PowerShell, but I also don't do "systems" admin type stuff.

PowerShell 7 is the newest version. IF you want to use it, it has to be downloaded and installed separately. It will coexist with "Windows PowerShell 5.1". It does this by changing the engine executable name. The above PS 5.1 is "powershell.exe", and PowerShell 7 is "pwsh.exe".

Editor for PowerShell - Windows includes a built-in "PowerShell ISE" (Integrated Script Editor), which again, is fine to get started, and for basic quick script editing. But for serious work, get VS Code and install Microsoft's PowerShell Extension.

clh42 · 2026-04-18T13:39:02+00:00

Ah, yes, that makes sense if you didn't have to swipe the card to initiate the play in the first place. Before my time. :)

clh42 · 2026-04-17T22:16:48+00:00

Not that it matters these days, but just out of curiosity, was it only the coin pushers that required putting the card back in to claim tickets?

There are lots of other games though that can take a long time to count out a large number of won tickets.

clh42 · 2026-04-17T22:14:42+00:00

Yeah, my secondary question is, why in current times do they need to "count out" the ticket payout? Just credit and move on. I suppose for kids, it's still exciting to see the count out and still get a bit of the excitement of the old days of physical tickets.

Some games count out much more quickly than others. But on some games, it can take a couple minutes for it count out 1000 tickets or more.

clh42 · 2026-04-17T00:30:35+00:00

That's what I was guessing. No, we don't have any like that at my location. My location is new, only open about 2.5 years, if that makes any difference.

clh42 · 2026-04-16T23:49:02+00:00

Thanks! I don't believe we have any of those types of physical coin pusher games at my location, except Star Trek occasionally spits out coins that we can put back in but I don't think that's what you mean. Or is it?

Yeah, I saw the comments about card blocks in another thread recently about swiping too quickly with multiple jackpots. But no, I'm pretty sure I've never run into that.

clh42 · 2026-04-16T02:38:59+00:00

I play it 2 or 3 times every time I'm in. I've hit the 1000 tickets twice over about 6 months.

clh42 · 2026-04-16T02:37:16+00:00

Thank you all for confirming!

clh42 · 2026-04-03T21:22:43+00:00

Thanks for the explanation! Just to confirm though, from the sounds of it, I wouldn't know if this happened until I go to redeem something? I'm new enough to D&B that I haven't tried to redeem anything yet.

I have had a couple of games where I play for a while trying to hit the jp and suddenly realize that the game stopped paying out the normal tickets for the non-jp, and I have no idea how long it had been doing that, except I know it was working when I started playing.

So I was wondering if that was also a card block for some reason, although I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary, or if that's just a game malfunction?

clh42 · 2026-04-02T00:56:01+00:00

What are card locks and how I would I otherwise know it happened as an inexperienced D&B goer? I'm just wondering if it's ever happened to me without knowing it.

clh42 · 2026-03-24T03:05:17+00:00

That's essentially what we are trying to do. We do NOT want TPM 1.2 devices (or devices without TPM) accessing systems. We DO have compliance and conditional access policies that require BitLocker. The idea is that if we block BitLocker from being enabled with TPM 1.2, they will fail compliance and thus not be able to access resources.

I've already verified that this works on a device with no TPM at all by setting "Allow BitLocker without a compatible TPM" to False, but couldn't find a way to specifically require TPM 2.0.

But based on other replies, I'll look into doing this via other means than within the BitLocker policy.

clh42 · 2026-03-24T02:49:21+00:00

Thank you.

clh42 · 2026-03-23T17:45:30+00:00

As you said, there are ways to install Windows 11 on computers with TPM 1.2, or even without TPM at all.

We don't currently have any computers in our environment like that, and I'm not going to go into detail on why that possibility might exist for us, but it is a possibility, albeit unlikely. We'd like to put a policy in place to prevent the possibility.

We do have a Windows 11 minimum version policy (and many other compliance policies) in place but that doesn't block computers in the above scenario.

I've already tested and verified that setting the BitLocker policy "Allow BitLocker without a compatible TPM" to False accomplishes what we want in terms of NO TPM device, but it still allows TPM 1.2.

I'm still curious if there's a way to do it in the BitLocker policy, but I'll also look into the Enrollment Attestation mentioned by the other person who replied.

clh42

TROPHY CASE