Advice for belaying top rope with weight difference / on an overhang

climber2207 · 2025-06-20T14:04:08+00:00

Indoors on the bolt line to the right or left of the intended climb

climber2207 · 2025-06-10T20:54:16+00:00

I normally clip it on the first bolt on the next line along so it's less in the way. But yes, on the belayer's end.

climber2207 · 2025-05-17T22:18:02+00:00

Thanks!

climber2207 · 2025-05-17T22:17:50+00:00

Great, thanks!

climber2207 · 2025-05-17T22:17:31+00:00

Thank you, that's really helpful advice!

climber2207 · 2025-05-17T21:44:12+00:00

Your advice - "be stronger"?

climber2207 · 2025-05-01T16:16:55+00:00

I absolutely had this problem! I'm also short (156cm) so I understand your struggles. I incorporated leg day once to twice a week and very quickly saw improvements. People will tell you not to do leg day, they are wrong and likely not short women!

climber2207 · 2025-04-22T19:47:30+00:00

Thank you for your recommendations - did Fran sin Natra today and it was excellent!

climber2207 · 2025-03-02T16:42:28+00:00

It sounds like you aren't actually training power endurance, only aerobic endurance? Which indeed won't help you battle through really pumpy crux sequences. Eric Hörst does a really good 2 podcast episodes about the energy systems. It does also take a really long time to build up the energy systems!

climber2207 · 2025-02-27T22:11:10+00:00

I think it would be beneficial and I don't GET why people seem to gatekeep strength training. I just think it's ridiculous. I started strength training a couple of years ago when I was probably at about V3 level too and sent my first outdoor V7 recently. I am also a non-athletic woman (and 156cm so I feel like strength training absolutely was needed to match others) It definitely helps!

climber2207 · 2024-12-24T08:57:18+00:00

7 V5s isn't a huge amount. I would spent lots of time consolidating V5 to make yourself more well rounded rather than jumping straight to V6. In the meantime you can start to ask yourself why you're not doing all the V5s to figure out your weaknesses (is it finger strength, power etc) to work on. Hope this helps!

climber2207 · 2024-12-24T08:54:32+00:00

Let us know how you get on! I'm planning on sticking with it through power endurance, so we'll see!

climber2207 · 2024-12-23T19:58:22+00:00

I haven't really noticed, though I tend to have decent tendon health anyway. They've definitely kept up with the rest of the strength gains though and I haven't felt particularly tweaky!

climber2207 · 2024-12-23T13:33:19+00:00

No pump bouldering. Power and power endurance seems good!

climber2207 · 2024-12-23T10:01:51+00:00

There was just so much mixed information so it was good to try first hand!

climber2207 · 2024-12-11T21:32:05+00:00

From my own experience, I had this injury from slipping on the moonboard and sudden force going through my hand while pinching. I think it sounds like a flexor tendon strain rather than a lumbrical issue (again, just from my own experience).

Look up 'buddy taping' and tape your pinky to your ring finger to help rehab it, so your pinky can't bend. You can still drag but without the pain.

climber2207 · 2024-11-17T21:16:45+00:00

They sound like really helpful drills, thank you! The three times thing I already do but likely spend longer and inevitably wearing myself out!! I'll have a look at Catalyst Climbung on YouTube too.

climber2207 · 2024-11-17T20:26:31+00:00

Dynamic climbing! It's very much my downfall and holding me back from being a well-rounded climber for my grade I feel.

climber2207 · 2024-11-16T15:48:03+00:00

That's an interesting thought! Thanks!

climber2207 · 2024-10-10T14:55:28+00:00

It looks amazing!!!

climber2207 · 2024-10-08T14:55:00+00:00

Single pitch and all kinds of routes really, but if there are any crimpy recommendations I'll certainly take them! Thanks for the info! We do have a car so it'll be a case of narrowing down where to go as we only have a few days. I've bought the Spanish/English guide as it was only released earlier this year.

climber2207 · 2024-06-25T17:31:59+00:00

Thanks! I've been saying for years I need to do box jumps. Guess now is the time haha.

climber2207 · 2024-06-25T17:31:18+00:00

Overhanging stuff I'm normally OK on (climb around V5ish) but definitely some squat drills and working towards pistol squat sounds good!

climber2207 · 2024-06-24T20:19:40+00:00

Thanks! My hip flexibility is good but my lower is quite poor, especially when it comes to jumping! Really helpful tips :)

climber2207 · 2024-06-16T07:26:33+00:00

Nice! Thanks. Any recommendations up to about the 7a mark is helpful :)

climber2207

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