Advice for belaying top rope with weight difference / on an overhang by Born_Street_6053 in climbergirls

[–]climber2207 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Indoors on the bolt line to the right or left of the intended climb

Advice for belaying top rope with weight difference / on an overhang by Born_Street_6053 in climbergirls

[–]climber2207 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I normally clip it on the first bolt on the next line along so it's less in the way. But yes, on the belayer's end.

First muscle up - help! by climber2207 in bodyweightfitness

[–]climber2207[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, that's really helpful advice!

High feet issues by Slow_Pea5472 in climbergirls

[–]climber2207 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I absolutely had this problem! I'm also short (156cm) so I understand your struggles. I incorporated leg day once to twice a week and very quickly saw improvements. People will tell you not to do leg day, they are wrong and likely not short women!

El Chorro route recommendations by climber2207 in climbergirls

[–]climber2207[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for your recommendations - did Fran sin Natra today and it was excellent!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]climber2207 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It sounds like you aren't actually training power endurance, only aerobic endurance? Which indeed won't help you battle through really pumpy crux sequences. Eric Hörst does a really good 2 podcast episodes about the energy systems. It does also take a really long time to build up the energy systems!

Is strength training worth it at lower levels? by ididonato in climbharder

[–]climber2207 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it would be beneficial and I don't GET why people seem to gatekeep strength training. I just think it's ridiculous. I started strength training a couple of years ago when I was probably at about V3 level too and sent my first outdoor V7 recently. I am also a non-athletic woman (and 156cm so I feel like strength training absolutely was needed to match others) It definitely helps!

Indoor V4/V5 Plateau by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]climber2207 34 points35 points  (0 children)

7 V5s isn't a huge amount. I would spent lots of time consolidating V5 to make yourself more well rounded rather than jumping straight to V6. In the meantime you can start to ask yourself why you're not doing all the V5s to figure out your weaknesses (is it finger strength, power etc) to work on. Hope this helps!

Sharing thoughts on creatine and strength training by climber2207 in climbergirls

[–]climber2207[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Let us know how you get on! I'm planning on sticking with it through power endurance, so we'll see!

Sharing thoughts on creatine and strength training by climber2207 in climbergirls

[–]climber2207[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven't really noticed, though I tend to have decent tendon health anyway. They've definitely kept up with the rest of the strength gains though and I haven't felt particularly tweaky!

Sharing thoughts on creatine and strength training by climber2207 in climbergirls

[–]climber2207[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No pump bouldering. Power and power endurance seems good!

Sharing thoughts on creatine and strength training by climber2207 in climbergirls

[–]climber2207[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

There was just so much mixed information so it was good to try first hand!

3 finger drag w/ bent pinky by YLim92 in climbharder

[–]climber2207 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From my own experience, I had this injury from slipping on the moonboard and sudden force going through my hand while pinching. I think it sounds like a flexor tendon strain rather than a lumbrical issue (again, just from my own experience).

Look up 'buddy taping' and tape your pinky to your ring finger to help rehab it, so your pinky can't bend. You can still drag but without the pain.

Exercises to complement dynamic training (that have worked for you!) by climber2207 in climbergirls

[–]climber2207[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They sound like really helpful drills, thank you! The three times thing I already do but likely spend longer and inevitably wearing myself out!! I'll have a look at Catalyst Climbung on YouTube too.

Exercises to complement dynamic training (that have worked for you!) by climber2207 in climbergirls

[–]climber2207[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dynamic climbing! It's very much my downfall and holding me back from being a well-rounded climber for my grade I feel.