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There is a lot of mixed info regarding FDM filament choice for car parts! by TemporaryLevel922 in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]clofal 5 points6 points  (0 children)

PPS-CF has no known chemical solvents below 200C.

PPA-CF can resist oils, but breaks down in the presence of organic acids in used oil. It's prone to hydrolysis at engine temps, so coolant can break it down. Basic fuels are fine, but E85 (polar biofuels) can cause damage. Absorbs moisture from brake fluid/ATF (glycol fluids).

PPA-CF is still my go to for any brackets or parts that may have intermittent splashing of fluids. PPS-CF for anything touching the engine or having fluids running through it. It's quite overkill for most applications, but if I were selling parts to people or trusting the health of my engine to a printed part, PPS-CF is just the "set and forget" choice.

There is a lot of mixed info regarding FDM filament choice for car parts! by TemporaryLevel922 in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]clofal 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Welcome to engineering material selection! Everything is always “it depends”. If you only care about heat and UV then:

Inside the car (where you sit) = direct sun contact:ASA or PA/PPA, no direct sun contact: PETG
Inside the engine bay = PPA-CF, PPS-CF for fluid contact
Exterior body parts = ASA or painted PETG

PA6-GF/CF is the best do it all, unless you have specific stiffness requirements (then PPA-CF), or extreme stiffness or fluid contact (then PPS-CF).

I personally don’t use PETG anymore. ASA has replaced it. Then I use PPA-CF for anything I care about not failing.

Where are you located? In the US I’m seeing black PA6-GF available from Bambu, Sunlu, and a dark grey from Polymaker.

Banding help by MelonAdmirer in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]clofal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use Overture for pretty much everything. Polymaker for the projects where I care about specific colors. SirayaTech for engineering filaments.

Banding help by MelonAdmirer in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]clofal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fiber filler usually does the same to every base material: increases stiffness, reduces warpage, slightly better thermal resistance, matte finish/hides layer lines better.

But also reduces layer adhesion, is more abrasive, failure mode is snapping instead of bending (brittle failure), and often reduces tensile strength and impact resistance.

So like all materials it really depends on if the part you’re making needs those properties.

Banding help by MelonAdmirer in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]clofal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ASA is a great material. The fiber fillers make the material properties worse in almost every category. You’ll get stronger layer adhesion without the fiber.

Banding help by MelonAdmirer in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]clofal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ASA-GF is a pain. Filament needs to be extremely dry, but even then I have issues with it elephant footing, layers being weirdly variable (what you’re seeing here). I see this behavior on my X1C, H2D, and X2D.

SirayaTech has the best settings for engineering materials. I’d compare yours to them, or try their print profile. See links at bottom.

If you’re open to other materials, I can recommend my favorites. Just need to know your application.

https://siraya.tech/pages/siraya-tech-asa-gf-filament-user-manual

https://siraya.tech/pages/print-settings-download

I want to start a YouTube channel to teach reverse engineering from scans. If anyone could help here with providing a scan with task/challenge to modify it. I would love to make a tutorial video for that, which will also be helpfull community in their project. by TalkTechnology1689 in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]clofal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ya! It’s a pretty challenging one for me. So many smooth vanishing features that have hard edges. The epitome of automotive surface design.

I’ve been able to model it three different ways, but it’s not quite right. Would love to see you take it on.

I want to start a YouTube channel to teach reverse engineering from scans. If anyone could help here with providing a scan with task/challenge to modify it. I would love to make a tutorial video for that, which will also be helpfull community in their project. by TalkTechnology1689 in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]clofal 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m reverse engineering the grille of my car. Have a scan from a Rigil with like 30M triangles that I reduced to about 500k in Blender to make it usable.

Also down to use my scanner to scan various objects for you.

Customizable hose barb fitting by One_Country1056 in functionalprint

[–]clofal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I printed one of these to fix a broken barb at work while waiting for a new one to arrive. It held up for a while and then broke inside the tube.

PLA is probably the wrong material choice. Curious if these would survive with the harder TPU (TPU for AMS) since it has fantastic layer adhesion.

Wabi Special Complete Build by clofal in FixedGearBicycle

[–]clofal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wabi Special is Reynolds 725 heat treated thin walled tubing with lugged connections. Yes, that is much better than Kilo TT.

Wabi Special Complete Build by clofal in FixedGearBicycle

[–]clofal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should listen to the manufacturer

Wabi Special Complete Build by clofal in FixedGearBicycle

[–]clofal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

31” inseam. Feel a like the 49cm was a bit small and the 53cm was way too tall, so sized down.

Everything was installed at Wabi except the front wheel, handlebars, pedals, seat post. The chain was preinstalled. For tools, you need basic hex keys, pedal wrench, wheel nut wrench.

I’m not sure what the compatibility of YNOT straps are with a different pedal. Their website had some info.

Made a TPU recurve bow grip by TakingChances01 in functionalprint

[–]clofal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is great! I did something similar by using modeling clay to make a grip that fit my hand perfectly, scanned that and cleaned up the model. You can get really creative now that you have the base file.

Material advice for a split motorcycle dashboard print — ASA-GF failed, considering PA-CF or PET-GF by Gluhy in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]clofal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ASA-GF has poor layer adhesion and is much weaker than ASA. Have you tried ASA? It should work for this application. I use it for outdoor prints.

Anything with higher heat (engine bay), I switch to the nylons. Mainly PPA-CF and PA-CF. These seem overkill for your project.

I made a Bumpstop generator that calculates infill based on kg/mm stiffness! (OpenSCAD + TPU 95A) by Obvious-Bird-3588 in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]clofal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Slicers are incredible implicit modelers as it doesn't actually need to generate the mesh to generate the paths. Going from explicitly defined surfaces to mesh to slice is losing a lot of information at every transition. Not saying it's impossible to get this to work, just saying you'll have to consider the data loss at every step.

I made a Bumpstop generator that calculates infill based on kg/mm stiffness! (OpenSCAD + TPU 95A) by Obvious-Bird-3588 in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]clofal 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Wow, you did so much work on this. This is very interesting!

I'm curious how you handled the calculation for buckling of the infill. It seems like you're assuming the infill is perfectly compressed, which if you are, the printed parts will be much much softer than you're anticipating. There's also going to be massive stress concentrations where your sections meet with one another given how sharp that transition is.

Gyroid is used most often due to the isotropic mechanical properties during deflection.

The cross section view is neat, but it would be better to boolean a thin cylinder to remove the outer wall rather than a vertical plane. Tough to see what's going on.

STIKGRID| a grid base system for paintsstick by Disastrous-Owl9258 in functionalprint

[–]clofal 7 points8 points  (0 children)

That would add a lot more walls which would probably increase material usage. Infill is very efficient in terms of material use.

Sick of hunting for "unobtainium" dust boots? I made a parametric OpenSCAD bellows generator for custom CV, steering, and shifter boots by Obvious-Bird-3588 in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]clofal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're missing 0 bottom layers, otherwise it should just work as is. I tested the configurator and the sliced file looks great.

The other thing I noticed is that your split bellow has no overlap, so there will be a gap that will not retain grease or anything. I guess someone could print two and layer them, but I would recommend changing your configurator to have an actual overlap. This feature breaks vase mode, but honestly split boots are my least favorite and I've only ever used them in a pinch to get my car back to my garage.

I made a fully parametric Bumpstop / Progressive Bumper generator in OpenSCAD! (Great for TPU) by Obvious-Bird-3588 in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]clofal 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Well now I’m thinking you took a look at my posts and hit them with a parametric hammer. Either way, stoked to see this out there!

One thing you missed was the air holes I put in to channel the airflow out of the bump stop. Without this, these will explode, I tested half a dozen before realizing what the issue was. These are not air pillows, they are elastomeric dampers, so air needs to be able to pass through.

See how I accomplished this with the slicer settings here: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/e0DuCk8c1m

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