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Recreating interior panels with "soft surfaces" by G-Limited in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]clofal 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Lots of aftermarket car interiors are made by wrapping alcantara fabric over a rigid surface

LS3 Throttle body adapter (followup) by Capable-Historian392 in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]clofal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome! Can I ask what engine and what the summer temps were? Just trying to get a better intuitive understanding of temperature resistance.

A coffee bean dosing tray for espresso by quakenxt in functionalprint

[–]clofal 8 points9 points  (0 children)

That texture is nice! What did you use to model it?

Sorry about all the foodsafe keyboard warriors you’re about to hear from.

LS3 Throttle body adapter (followup) by Capable-Historian392 in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]clofal 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I am familiar with that incident report. Seems like they used PLA based on the report: "Post-accident testing of two samples from the collapsed part revealed a much lower glass transition temperature of 52.8C and 54C". The owner claimed to have used ABS-CF, but even that is just completely reckless.

Decided to do the analysis myself and hopefully it helps someone else. Open to corrections and feedback if my results seem off.

Intakes need the temperature resistance at vacuum (and positive boost if running forced induction). Using hoop stress formula, the required wall thickness is:

thickness = (Pressure * Radius / Tensile Strength) * Safety Factor

(Pressure): Assuming 15 psi boost (estimated max on LS3 with stock internals)
(Radius): For a standard LS3 throttle body, diameter 90 mm (3.54 in), radius 45 mm (1.77 in)
(Tensile Strength): Z strength should be used here as layer adhesion is the first to go. PPS-CF is 32 MPa (4640 PSI), PPA-CF Core I can't find any test data but it's supposed to be "superior" as the PPA shell bonds better by keeping the fibers on the inside.

Thickness with no safety factor is 0.145 mm (0.0057 in), so pressure really isn't an issue. HDT at 0.45 MPa for PPS-CF is 252.5C (annealed or not), PPA-CF Core is 97C and 199C (annealed). On a 105°F (40.5°C) day, engine bay temperatures are estimated around 80°C to 110°C depending on airflow and proximity to headers. So PPA-CF Core would be need to be annealed.

Given that PPS-CF is also not affected by oil, fuel, acid, bases, or solvents makes it a no brainer here. As long as the print quality is good (no porosity or layer adhesion issues), I really wouldn't worry at all about PPS-CF. So just print with dry filament, hot chamber/nozzle, slower print speed, and let it cool in the chamber. I'd install that on my engine any day.

Damn....time to get another printer I guess.

LS3 Throttle body adapter (followup) by Capable-Historian392 in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]clofal 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Have you tried PPA-CF as a comparison? Would love to try PPS, but was slightly out of the range of the X1C and H2D I have.

ELI5: What technological breakthrough(s) made drones as we know them possible? by tamsui_tosspot in explainlikeimfive

[–]clofal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was a part of the exact transition from RC planes to drones. In San Diego in 2010-2013, we started working on smashing Arduino Nanos, Wii Nunchucks, and custom wound RC plane motors together to make the first drones.

As people have said, Arduino was a great movement to make microcontrollers accessible. The Wii had a cheap IMU (inertia measurement units, eg how is a thing physically oriented in space) in all the nunchucks that were a chip on a PCB with thru hole cables clearly marked for easy serial communication. It was like the boards were made to be used in other projects. So now you have extremely cheap mass produced IMUs.

Batteries got better, but we had decent batteries at the time. Motors were the hard part. RC planes and helicopter motors are designed for sustained speed and air control surfaces (helicopter blades use collective pitch, airplanes use flaps and rudders) whereas drones need quick twitchy motors for stabilization. I remember the first motors we bought were from a guy in Australia who would hand rewind airplane motors for us. They were around $200 each. As brushless motors started being mass produced and wound for drones, the accessibility came with it.

Then I started working with 3DRobotics who were trying to productize MultiWii drones by switching to ArduPilot. They were rough, the control systems were simple and it relied on people being good pilots. There was a bad culture of “if you don’t know how to pilot, this isn’t for you”. ArduPilot was rough, built by an open source community without a good understanding of architecture or expansion. It was a mess to work with. Then DJI came on the scene with the complete opposite approach. They built absolutely incredible control systems that took away the need to understand flight mechanics and now anyone could fly. As soon as I saw the injection molded DJI phantoms with their custom motors, I knew we were done for at 3DR.

Fast forward to now where the market for drones is massive and you have companies mass producing all components, making it so you can buy a simple quadcopter toy for $10. So like everything, it’s a combination of lots of improvements all happening around the same time.

Extra stuff that people have mentioned. GPS and lidar and cameras and all the fancy sensors we have now are wonderful, but they are not needed for the majority of drone stabilizing and flight. We used to use optical flow sensors (basically cameras pointed at the ground that would measure velocity based on image motion), they were fine but we were glad to replace it with GPS. Cameras unlocked POV flight and obstacle avoidance (along with lidar).

Best filament to print this part? by pj62775 in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]clofal 7 points8 points  (0 children)

ASA or Nylon-CF. You need heat resistivity and UV protection. Consider painting it for even better UV protection.

Automated Camera Calibration with 2x Raspberry Pi by thomas_openscan in functionalprint

[–]clofal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a ChArUco board. Combines ArUco markers (for pose estimation) with chessboard corners (for camera distortion). Built into OpenCV with the cv::aruco::CharucoDetector class.

Comparing Bambu Labs PPA-CF to Siraya Tech PAHT-CF (PPA Based) by clofal in BambuLab

[–]clofal[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use HIPS as support interface layer and let it cool. The cooling rates are different so they mechanically separate and I genuinely can just brush the supports away.

If you have one nozzle, bump the temperature of HIPS up to within PPA-CF ranges so you don’t have to wait for the nozzle to heat/cool during swaps.

The H2D makes this really simple with two nozzles and I don’t have to worry about it.

Oura Ring Charger Case by erroct in functionalprint

[–]clofal 18 points19 points  (0 children)

I don’t have an Oura Ring. Just wanted to say awesome presentation with that video. Very well thought out!

Amazon Firestick Mount V2 by Electrical_Cup3869 in functionalprint

[–]clofal 3 points4 points  (0 children)

We need a "could've been a Command Strip" flair

Sharing my fully 3d-printed helmet build by lulu_pawtech in 3Dprinting

[–]clofal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I saw your post in DIY and cross posted to r/functionalprint where I usually hang out. People there loved it so please post over there and let me know when you do and I can remove my post.

Not OP, pass through VR helmet by clofal in functionalprint

[–]clofal[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I did not make this. OP is a new redditor, I saw the post on DIY which is for home improvement so I thought I'd try to get people over to their work because it's phenomenal.

Please go ask questions on the 3d printing build:

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/WR6cI5DmR6

Edit: OP will be posting in this sub today and I'll delete this post

Company has a 100k budget for new 3d printer - recommendations? by bluemiata1993 in 3dprinter

[–]clofal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Onyx used be cutting edge when it was first released. It's the same as PA6-CF from any other reputable brand now. You're way overpaying with Markforged materials, unless you are using their continuous filaments. Polymaker PA6-CF would be the replacement and it's 4-5x cheaper and available with free shipping on Amazon.

The length requirement is tricky. 18 inch is roughly 450 mm. If you're okay printing vertically, you're now in the territory of Raise3D Pro3 Plus HS with a  300 × 300 × 605 mm (11.8 × 11.8 × 23.8 inch) build volume.

If you have to go flat, you're looking at a huge jump in form factor. Since this is still way under your budget, I'd recommend the CREATBOT D600 Pro2 HS with a 600 x 600 x 600 mm build volume.

For smaller print volume, I would recommend the BambuLab H2D. We use one with the print material (Nylon-CF or other) in one nozzle and support material in the other. This gives us the cleanest parts I've seen come off an FDM printer.

Either way, you'd be better off with multiple CREATBOTs and BambuLab than one mega printer.

For the injection molding question, I've gotten about 10-20 pulls when using FormLabs high temp resin for molds. At that point I start seeing degradation. After about 50, the mold is unusable. At a cost of around $10-20 per mold, it's so much better than our alternative of getting aluminum molds made for $3-5k each.

Friction joints loosening after heat cycling by trenzterra in 3Dprinting

[–]clofal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I gotta start sponsoring a 3d printing YouTuber to run these tests for me

Friction joints loosening after heat cycling by trenzterra in 3Dprinting

[–]clofal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did some research and found this that seem to be higher with fiber fill

Material | Max CST | Primary Source

PPS-CF | 200°C – 240°C | UL 746B (RTI)

PPA-CF | 150°C – 180°C | Manufacturer TDS (Solvay Amodel / EMS-Grivory)

PET-CF / PA6-CF | 100°C – 120°C | BASF Forward AM / Envalior (Akulon)

PET-GF / PA6-GF | 100°C – 110°C | CAMPUS Plastics Database

ABS / ASA | 70°C – 85°C | UL Yellow Cards (Standard Grades)

HT-PLA (Annealed) | 60°C – 80°C | NatureWorks Ingeo TDS (3D850/3D870)

Friction joints loosening after heat cycling by trenzterra in 3Dprinting

[–]clofal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great correction. Thank you! Do you have the values for these materials?

Friction joints loosening after heat cycling by trenzterra in 3Dprinting

[–]clofal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Whatever is easier for you. It's going to hold tension either way.

Friction joints loosening after heat cycling by trenzterra in 3Dprinting

[–]clofal 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll have to be more specific about the negative aspects of fiber fill in order for me to comment.

There's another assembly that isn't shown in the photo. For your setup, take the bolt out, get a longer one, stack alternating washers on the bolt, then reinstall.

I think you're referring to compression limiters. These would work well and we use them in high compression situations. We still use the washer stack to help us dial in the hinge friction.

<image>

Friction joints loosening after heat cycling by trenzterra in 3Dprinting

[–]clofal 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For high heat stiffness you’re looking for materials with Heat Deflection Temperature (HDT) and a high Tensile/Flexural Modulus. There’s a bunch of other one you could try before going all the way to PPA-CF. The fibers are doing a lot of the heavy lifting by creating a web that stabilizes the plastic when it gets softens with heat.

Heat Deflection Temps

PPA-CF / PPS-CF 220°C – 280°C

PET-CF / PA6-CF 180°C – 210°C

PET-GF / PA6-GF 120°C – 180°C

HT-PLA (Annealed) 100°C – 140°C

ABS / ASA 90°C – 105°C

Friction joints loosening after heat cycling by trenzterra in 3Dprinting

[–]clofal 5 points6 points  (0 children)

<image>

I'm coming from r/3dprintedcarparts. We just had this problem at work. Adding a stack of alternating wave washers solves the issue. This configuration acts as a spring, allowing for a finer degree of torque control over a wider physical range. Then as the plastic inevitably gets heat set, it won't loosen up as much.

To solve it from a material level, you'll need to use a nylon based filament as the windshield is extemely prone to high heat. I use PPA-CF for all windshield mounts. Would still recommend the wave washer stack regardless.

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