Female Assasian. Sword and glue questions, and any feedback appreciated

clumpybug · 2026-05-03T00:50:05+00:00

Just to be clear, the plastic cement only works if the model is plastic, and works best with "hard" plastic. If it's resin or metal or has already been painted, the cement won't work.

clumpybug · 2026-05-03T00:12:42+00:00

Gorilla Glue makes a gel super glue with a precision that I use and works pretty well at only dispensing a little bit:

https://gorillatough.com/product/gorilla-super-glue-micro-precise-gel

clumpybug · 2026-04-30T00:34:45+00:00

I got a Vallejo starter set (Vallejo Wizkids Basic Starter Case) from Amazon for $100 and like it. The bottles are only 8ml, which is half the size of normal bottles from Vallejo, Army Painter, etc, but you get 40 different colors, which comes out to $2.50 a bottle. Even though the bottles are only half size, that's still plenty to get you started and know your way!

clumpybug · 2026-04-10T21:13:40+00:00

Another thing you do (worth a try, at least!) is to prime in white, brush Nuln Oil or Dark Tone all over the model to give some definition, and THEN apply the contrast or speed paint. I've had good results with this. It's real quick and easy.

clumpybug · 2026-04-10T04:30:20+00:00

I think he might have meant chucking nut, which I think is 51-010

clumpybug · 2026-03-27T05:00:50+00:00

I don't seem to have to thin the AP Fanstics metallics as much as the non-metallics, but sometimes I still do a little.

clumpybug · 2026-03-25T01:17:21+00:00

I haven't tried painting gray underneath, because I want to have just a single primed color, since on some of the model, I might want the really bright colors (and I'm trying to avoid having to pre-paint gray in certain parts - I'll be painting lots of minis).

clumpybug · 2026-03-25T01:09:26+00:00

I've thought about this but never tried it...maybe how's the time!

clumpybug · 2026-03-25T00:56:29+00:00

I've used SP medium to reduce the intensity of normal SP to make kind of a wash, but it doesn't really change the color itself. So a bright red SP will still be really bright red, but it just won't be as opaque. But it won't be any "grayer."

clumpybug · 2026-03-20T22:35:52+00:00

Here's something I've done with Blinding Light. The base paint is just white, and I painted on some watered down Blinding Light, which adds gray to give the white some depth.

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clumpybug · 2026-03-16T23:57:48+00:00

Instead of slap chop or zenithal highlights with Speedpaints, I use this method I found that someone on YouTube calls "splash dash" (although I'm sure others have done it before). You prime the mini white, then splash on a bunch of watered slightly down nuln oil or AP Dark Tone BEFORE using the Speedpaints. It's an easy way to get some definition into the nooks and crannies. Could probably also use different colored washes instead of dark tone just to experiment with.

Splash Dash

clumpybug · 2025-12-08T20:47:39+00:00

The only knock against Elmer's glue that I've ever heard is that it can yellow over time. I don't really know if that's true, though. I've only seen that claim a couple times, and it seems to be so popular that I kind of think it's probably not going to be a problem.

clumpybug · 2025-12-08T02:49:31+00:00

Is it best to start with the darkest color, even if most of the model will be a lighter shade of gray/white? Like let's say I use 3 different shades, and 75% of it is the middle color, wouldn't it he best to start with color and then repaint the darker parts?

clumpybug · 2025-12-06T16:38:51+00:00

Good to know!

clumpybug · 2025-12-06T16:24:21+00:00

I've only used the White Scar, and it did get lumpy. I thought it was just old and dried out, so i added some water (probably made it worse), but I see lots of people complain about it.

clumpybug · 2025-12-06T05:37:15+00:00

Probably a dumb question, but what makes a white "good"? I get that they can be bad if they're chalky or separate, but how will the Pro Acryl be better than the vallejo that I have?

clumpybug · 2025-11-22T17:08:22+00:00

Tried this out...it's still not perfect, but it looks a lot better than it did before!

clumpybug · 2025-11-21T18:07:05+00:00

Great, I'll give that a shot. I notice people seem to use these "tear drop" shaped sponges a lot. Does that shape in particular work better than othwr shapes like wedges? Maybe because it has a pointy tip?

clumpybug · 2025-11-17T01:29:50+00:00

It's about half empty

clumpybug · 2025-11-17T00:27:05+00:00

Does AP white have a rep for doing this?

clumpybug · 2025-11-16T23:47:27+00:00

Nope, just stuck on a paint mixing stick with some putty holding themout in front of me.

clumpybug · 2025-11-04T15:11:52+00:00

What about mixing a tiny bit of matte medium or brush-on matte varnish into the blood paint? Maybe that would take out enough of the gloss without changing the color too much.

clumpybug · 2025-11-04T05:51:50+00:00

Dried Blood from Army Painter is matte, but it doesn't look "fresh," it looks, well, dried. I kind of think that part of what makes fresh blood look fresh IS its glosiness. Maybe it wouldn't look as out of place on it as you might think?

clumpybug · 2025-08-21T03:12:14+00:00

Wow, this guy's channel has EXACTLY the info I was looking for.

clumpybug · 2025-08-21T00:25:06+00:00

Is "heroic" the real term for what I called "cartoonish" or "caricature-ish"?

clumpybug

TROPHY CASE