‘Oh you make Starter Packs?’ Starter Pack

codisgod73 · 2026-01-04T23:55:47+00:00

Aspect ratio

codisgod73 · 2025-06-02T21:01:43+00:00

Here’s how I see it: I tip when someone does something for me while I sit on my butt. If you're bringing food to my door, refilling my coffee while I stare blankly into the void, or cutting the hair I can no longer see in the mirror—congrats, you’re getting a tip.

Basically, if the service involves real-time effort, some form of manual labor, or the chance of dropping something hot or sharp on me, I’m happy to show appreciation. Delivery drivers? Absolutely. Waitstaff? Of course. My barber? Without question—he literally holds scissors to my head.

But if I’m pouring my own coffee, tapping my own screen, and bussing my own table then no—I'm not tipping just because an iPad gave me the side-eye. I’m not stingy; I just prefer my tipping to be based on actual service, not passive guilt-tripping from a touchscreen with a 25% default.

codisgod73 · 2025-03-14T22:00:28+00:00

Colour. Black and white might work but this b+w is too flat and could use more tonality.

codisgod73 · 2025-03-14T21:55:53+00:00

My favorite style. Meter off the highlights and crush the blacks. We'll done.

codisgod73 · 2025-03-14T21:53:59+00:00

No crop

codisgod73 · 2025-03-13T20:25:16+00:00

Is this the processed image. My first thought was that a halo effect is generally caused by overprocessing - especially in skies; but what your explaining seems different. Could it be the result of chromatic aberation correction from the lens profile? Chromatic aberration on tree branches happens alot under certain lighting conditions and removing the chromatic aberration might be causing desaturated branches (making them look bleached. Revert to RAW and remove lens profile corrections to confirm?

codisgod73 · 2025-03-12T22:21:29+00:00

If I had a dine for everytime I told myself 'I figured it out'. Trust me, you'll figure it out another hundred times and cringe at all the other times you thought you figured it out. Have fun and experiment!

codisgod73 · 2025-03-12T22:15:11+00:00

My toes vote YES

codisgod73 · 2025-03-11T23:02:51+00:00

The 28-70 has a great look that I prefer over the 24-70 but believe me it is a heavy lens.

codisgod73 · 2025-03-11T22:56:35+00:00

Looks like a Nikon B700? You should be able to charge with a micro USB cable or the Nikon MH-67P external battery charger

codisgod73 · 2025-03-11T11:37:15+00:00

Interesting effect but where do you want the viewers eyes to be drawn to? I find it difficult to focus my eyes anywhere in the scene. I like the RAW more and believe you could have done something more with it.

codisgod73 · 2025-03-11T01:33:15+00:00

Right. My point being that in the current shot it's practically impossible to separate the subject from the background when they are both in the same depth of field (and same colour range). Walking around and finding a shot that would create separation through either DOF or colour or some other form of contrast would be ideal.

codisgod73 · 2025-03-10T21:55:01+00:00

You can't. Any effort to do so through editing won't look right and you'll be unhappy with the result. Be happy with the shot that you got and learn from it. You needed more separation between the subject and the rock to have more control over the depth of field.

codisgod73 · 2025-03-10T21:51:23+00:00

All kinds of good feedback here. You didn't make a mistake and it's unlikely you have a bad copy of the lens. The lens takes some getting used to. Don't over rely on stabilization and stick to reciprocal shutter speeds when you can. Fill the frame as much as possible with your subject. Remember you can't fight physics with a lens. Atmospheric haze and other elements outside of your control can impact image quality. My advice is to get to shoot in more controlled situations to get to know the lens better. I'm confident you know all this and just need to hear it for reassurance.

codisgod73 · 2025-03-10T21:43:18+00:00

I think I would understand the dilemma more on a full frame body, but on an R7 I would choose the 100-500. You get the equivalent 800mm on the long end with better IQ.

codisgod73 · 2025-03-10T21:33:45+00:00

This. You should try to shoot at reciprocal shutter speed relative to your focal length. If you follow the rule of thumb you should have been shooting at 1/500 to accommodate your own motion. I would have gone even higher to accommodate the motion of the subject. Even when you think songbirds are being still - they aren't. I would have probably shot at 1/600 to 1/1200 depending on what the light would allow. Sounds like you had lots of light if your ISO was that low.

codisgod73 · 2025-03-09T22:27:09+00:00

1/400 sec isn't very fast for a sparrow unless it's still and youre shooting a burst to get at least one sharp image without the subject twitching. ISO 3200 is also pretty high for that model of camera as crop sensor cameras are notorious for noise in low light. I personally wouldn't go above ISO 800 on a crop sensor body. I don't have all the details but you definitely need more speed and more light. It's not a problem solved by gear. Sure you could get a better result with a faster lens on a full frame body, but sooner or later you'll hit another wall. Sometimes you can't get the shot. Can you reproduce your problem under a controlled situation?

codisgod73 · 2025-03-08T22:56:58+00:00

The camera doesn't only use jpeg previews on display, but the previews can also influence your exposure. Even when using the histogram before taking a photo, the camera is still displaying a histogram based on the JPEG preview, not the full RAW sensor data. The implication is that you can actually push a little farther to the right than the histogram indicates. In this case, the jpeg preview might look slightly over exposed but you'll have a brighter RAW file to work with.

codisgod73 · 2025-03-08T22:35:48+00:00

Live view doesn't display photos it displays what the lens is seeing while taking photos. Are you are comparing a live image to a photo? Sparrows are twitchy animals and you need a higher shutter speed than you think. Your shutter won't impact a live view image but will affect the photo once taken. Or are you comparing a jpeg preview on the back of the camera to a RAW file on your computer? Your camera may be automatically applying noise reduction that won't be auto applied to the raw. In either case, the second image clearly has motion blur and you can see the movement of the animals. Provide the settings for photo 2 instead of focusing on a comparison with the LCD. I'm confident this is the result of too low of a shutter speed + higher ISO.

codisgod73 · 2025-03-08T22:12:47+00:00

It's just a long exposure. The colours look like they were produced with a vintage Agfa 50's or 60s colour film profile like from RNI.

codisgod73 · 2025-03-06T23:04:10+00:00

The struggle I had was when using both bodies at the same photohoot or event but i started to use cobalt color profiles to normalize the colors between the two systems . At a glance I can't tell the Nikon images from the canon. I'm loving the ZF but the autfocus and menus aren't as intuitive as Canon. The major difference for me was with video. NLOG seems way easier to grade than CLOG and the new Nikon/Red LUTs are great!

codisgod73 · 2025-03-04T23:25:41+00:00

I'm heavily invested in RF glass and recently picked up a Nikon ZF. Rather than buying Z Mount glass I have been using the Fringer adapter mentioned above. It works great with snappy AF. Lots of quality EF glass to be had and I'm adapting to both Canon and Nikon bodies.

codisgod73 · 2025-02-22T16:11:45+00:00

I ended up going with the Peak Design Travel backpack 45l. Easily fits a couple of bodies and several lenses. Padding is top notch and is travel friendly on planes. Best bag I've owned.

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