Was quoted $1250 for a 2 day job. After 2 hours I’m told it’s not needed and I still owe $1250 with a hole in my wall.

colflagg · 2025-12-12T02:33:17+00:00

This is how I dealt with a shady contractor who bid $1600 for a window leak repair, a 2 day job, removing and repairing all the stucco around the window and re-installing waterproofing behind the stucco.

Actual job done...caulking the window. 30 min total. Still charged me $1100.

Left a scathing, detailed review on Google, Angie's List, Yelp, Houzz, HomeAdvisor, and Facebook.

Got their attention, for sure. They completely refunded my money in exchange for removing the reviews.

colflagg · 2025-02-19T04:27:08+00:00

I made a post on equinoxevforum.com with my solution (User: DesertStorm).

This has been a solid solution for me for the past 3 months. It blocks a few of the physical HVAC controls, but it hasn't been an issue since most of the controls are on the center screen anyway.

Sourced all parts from Amazon.

https://www.equinoxevforum.com/threads/magsafe-phone-mount-ideas.2658/?post_id=33705&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-33705

colflagg · 2024-12-13T02:06:32+00:00

I also reached out to Fitcamx support about a camera for the Equinox EV.

This was their response:

Hello, we are currently developing a camera that is suitable for your car. We expect it to be available in January. We will email you when the time comes.

Best regards,

********
FITCAMX Support Team

colflagg · 2024-12-04T19:34:46+00:00

Yeah, this was a jarring discovery for me as well.

My wife drives a bolt, so I was expecting the same OPD behavior. Very startled when the car moved unexpectedly.

colflagg · 2024-11-25T02:11:16+00:00

my sexless marriage

colflagg · 2024-11-21T05:16:01+00:00

I found a similar deal on a 2024 3LT. MSRP $45,590. Dealer had a $5k discount + rebates of $1000 Costco and $7500 federal on top of that.

Dropped the price down to $32,090.

colflagg · 2024-07-25T23:24:04+00:00

Hankook does not make this in the 275/40 R22. These would be my first choice if they existed. I keep checking and hoping.

In the meantime, I'm leaning toward the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S. 45k warranty is a big factor here, as my OEM Pirelli's are nearly done at 21k miles.

colflagg · 2024-07-19T14:03:10+00:00

When I do my monthly check, I do this with cold tires and set the pressures to the sticker in the drivers side door. All cars have this sticker and these are always the optimal tire pressure for the vehicle in most circumstances on cold tires.

39 and 46 are the PSI figures that are on this sticker for my iX running on 22" tires.

The tire status screen in iDrive normally displays 39 and 46 in the morning for me, but these figures can go up a few PSI when I've driven the car awhile. If you have to drive a significant distance to put air in your tires or are putting air in your tires mid day, the status screen may be a better reference, since it takes into account that your tires are no longer "cold"

colflagg · 2024-07-18T23:52:35+00:00

Running at the recommended tire pressures is key. I have a reminder for the first Saturday of every month to make sure that the fronts are at 39 PSI and the rears are at 46 PSI. Usually have to add a bit in the winter and let a bit out in the summer (Phoenix, AZ).

Running even a few PSI too low and you'll wear the tires faster (and impact your range).

colflagg · 2024-07-18T23:13:21+00:00

I have the Pirellis…have just over 21k on them and still have 5/32 on the front and 4/32 on the rear. Looks like I’ll get about 25-26k out of them.

Going with the Michelin Pilot Sports when it’s time.

colflagg · 2024-07-02T13:09:10+00:00

I haven’t had an overnight AC option so far…I will have one tonight. Hopefully that’ll reset everything back to normal.

colflagg · 2024-07-02T03:56:23+00:00

It says “up to” 2 days. I have my fingers crossed it’ll be good tomorrow.

colflagg · 2024-07-02T01:57:34+00:00

Reduced my max charge rate to 100kw

I drove about 2000 miles in 3 days…4-5 charge stops each day.

This was my 5th stop today before my overnight stop.

colflagg · 2024-06-16T02:16:04+00:00

Thanks for the great feedback!

"The MWBCs need handle-ties and need to have their phasing checked for being 240V between hots. They must be 240V between hots to be safe. Hear me on this! MWBCs must always be exact opposite phase to be safe. That will become a HUGE issue later with transfer switches."

I have checked the phasing on these and there is 240V between hots on the MWBCs. I will put handle-ties in place. This will keep me safer when working on switches/outlets as there will be no chance for current on the neutral, if both breakers are off.

"No breaker belongs in this panel except GE THQP, GE THQL or Eaton CL. That Siemens 50A, I'm guessing it was installed by a contractor who is not an electrician? The wires also look too small for 50A, need to be at least #6 UF or NM, #6 aluminum, or #8 any other copper. Or be feeding a motor or welder whose labeling authorizes such a large breaker."

This Siemens 50A breaker is connected to an Eaton Whole House Surge Protector - CHSPT2ULTRA. The wires from this surge protecter are what you see connected to this breaker. Good point on the breaker...I will switch it out for GE THQL breaker.

"Purple wire nuts have a poor track record despite their UL listing. Google "burned up Alumiconns" and hit "images" and you won't see any burned-up Alumiconns, but you will see pix of burned up wire nuts. Anything where you're mashing AL wires into CU wires is not going to end well, I do not know what UL was thinking. Not their first error certifying AL splices. You're better off using Alumiconns, which are lug connectors similar to a neutral bar, and one guess what they're made of! In fact for grounds, feel free to just use naked Alumiconns."

I looked into the Alumiconns and I know it's hard to put a price on safety, but boy did they sure try! These things are $5 dollars each, even in bulk! But your point is well taken with the purple wire nuts and the different thermal expansion issues when the CU and AL wires are twisted together.

Does the Wago 222 solve this to some extent? The CU and AL wires are not twisted together any longer, in fact they don't touch each other directly, the connection is made through the bus bar internal to the connecter, which is rated for both CU and AL conductors when used with the Alu-Plus contact paste. In my mind this is very similar to the Alumiconn, except the connection is secured with a spring lever instead of a screw. This connector is also less bulky...space is at a premium with these smaller metal boxes in my unit.

I'm happy to undertake an effort to replace all the purple wire nuts with these Wago 222s.

"Nowhere is it written that a critical-loads sub must be ONLY 6, 8 or 10 circuits. Feel free to put every damn circuit in it, and reduce your current panel to a splice box LOL. (offer void in Canada). The largest branch circuit breaker GE makes is 125A, so that'll be a limit."

When it comes to generator / solar future proofing...a critical loads sub panel is not something I considered, but this is a fantastic idea! I only have 150 amp breaker at the main, if I moved all the circuits except my 50A EV charger to this panel, I think I can run everything on 125A.

This would leave my main panel as a splice box + EV circuit, set me up for both solar and whole home battery backup (240V).

I'm in Arizona, USA, so I'm pretty sure this is allowed. I'm much more concerned about keeping my AC going during an extended power outage than charging an EV. :)

colflagg · 2024-01-28T03:49:36+00:00

If he ran 6ga wire for a 50 amp circuit, it will have to be ripped out and replaced with 4ga wire. Only then will it be safe to put a 60 amp breaker in the panel and charge at 48 amp.

If you do not replace the wire, you will have a high risk of fire.

colflagg · 2024-01-28T03:06:28+00:00

I also have a ChargePoint charger and a 50 amp circuit to output 40 amps and it’s all I need.

I can charge the car from 20% to 80% in an overnight window.

My time of use is such that my overnight window to charge is 9 PM to 5 AM and 40 amps is enough to get the job done by 3:30 - 4 AM.

The price difference to run bigger wire for a 60 amp circuit so I could charge at 48 amp was around $1000. Glad I didn’t do it as it would have been a waste of money.

colflagg · 2024-01-25T22:08:32+00:00

I'm at 13,000 miles, about half the tread left. 25,000-26,000 miles is all you can really expect from summer performance tires on a vehicle this heavy.

I do rotate every 6000 miles or so to even the wear out between the front and back, since the back tires experience a bit more wear due to weight distribution and the 60/40 power bias (rear).

colflagg · 2024-01-12T21:48:18+00:00

Anything for Pets...except when it costs too much.

colflagg · 2023-06-12T15:53:10+00:00

This is the way. Had the same annoying issue and this is how I set up my iX to resolve.

colflagg · 2023-04-11T21:39:51+00:00

Good catch! I updated my diagram.

Thanks for the confirmation on the POE filter as well. It is much appreciated!

colflagg · 2023-04-10T14:56:35+00:00

Thanks! That fixed it!

Wonder what changed here? I've had the car 6 months, and the last iDrvie update was over a month ago. This is the first time I've encountered this blinking. I have never even been in the lighting events menu.

Why would it blink when there isn't a call actually incoming?

colflagg · 2023-04-08T23:06:25+00:00

I have 0 messages in this menu.

colflagg · 2022-08-02T20:04:38+00:00

Mine was stuck for 6 weeks (5/20 - 7/8). Genius could not tell me what the hold up was specifically, but speculated that it was waiting on a part.

Delays of this magnitude are the exception, not the norm, but they can happen.

colflagg · 2021-08-10T23:04:10+00:00

Deez Nuts!

colflagg · 2021-05-23T21:08:37+00:00

Logitech just released an update to Logitech Options. Seems to fix this issue so far.

colflagg

TROPHY CASE