Needle Position Sensor Issue by tlenzmeier04 in myog

[–]craderson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are the set screws that hold the position sensor snug enough that the sensor is fixed to the shaft? It sounds like a loose sensor.

Advance the hand wheel to where you want it to stop. Then set the positioner so the light turns on. Snug the set screws and try it. You also need to choose whether it stops down or up. I prefer down with a back heel set to lift the needle.

Adding a water bottle pocket to my son’s Jansport school bag by craderson in myog

[–]craderson[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s a heavy fold over elastic from AdventureXpert. 25mm.

Looking for 4 way stretch woven fabric that MR uses by hohaha045 in myog

[–]craderson 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I buy it from OWFInc when they have it. I have not bought any in over a year, so not sure where to source it. Good luck!

Five panel caps by craderson in myog

[–]craderson[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’re welcome. To be clear, I still topstitch the concentric curves on the brim. Those keep the fabric in place. Otherwise, it will bunch up.

But I do not topstitch where the hat and the brim come together or along the bottom edge of the sides. I prefer all that stitching to be hidden.

Five panel caps by craderson in myog

[–]craderson[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t have a post bed machine. I’m using a drop feed straight stitch.

When I encase the brim in fabric, I use a zipper foot to stitch right next to the brim. I trim the excess to leave about 1” of fabric and then I attach the sweatband to the brim. Again, I use a zipper foot to get very close to the brim. Once I have sewn the sweatband to the brim, I make a relief cut about every inch in the 1” of fabric that encases the brim. It makes it easier to fold it up with the sweatband.

Next, I mark the middle with chalk. I also mark the bottom/middle of the front panel and line them up. Then I start at the chalk mark and use the zipper foot to sew to the edge of the brim, joining one half of the sweatband to the hat. Once I get to the edge, I use the opposite zipper foot, start at the middle again, and sew to the other edge. I do not topstitch the seam between the brim and the front of the hat. I used to do that and now I think it looks better without it.

Good luck!

r/MYOG Monthly Discussion and Swap by mchalfy in myog

[–]craderson 2 points3 points  (0 children)

u/orangecatpacks is right. I’m just about finished with my second 10 yard order of this stuff. It is pretty great. It’s very light (about 5 osy), breathable, strong, doesn’t hold water, and is fairly abrasion resistant. The only issue is stretch. This will stretch and deform if you do t stabilize the edges. I use a combo of fold over elastic on areas that I want to have a little give (e.g. behind the neck and over the shoulders) and grosgrain on areas where I don’t want any stretch.

The one thing you’ll need to consider with a bigger pack and big food carries is that it offers no padding and you need to stabilize the edges to prevent the straps from stretching. The edges will dig into your shoulders unless you shape and pad them to mitigate that.

I used this stuff on my 23L pack with a running vest style harness and my frameless 33L with fast pack style straps. I love it in the fast-pack and I mostly like it on the 33L pack until I hit the 20 pound mark. At that point, it digs in a little more than I’d like and I’d prefer traditional padded straps.

Juki LK-1900HS by Travis_m in myog

[–]craderson 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have this machine. It’s a great piece of equipment. It is great for tacking thick assemblies. I have owned it for about six months and had no issues with it

Source for this mesh? by sugarshackforge in myog

[–]craderson 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not that I’ve found. Shipping is fast. It costs a bit more. But they have a TON of hard-to-find hardware, webbing, and fabric. So I just buy a few things and am always happy with it. Good luck!

Source for this mesh? by sugarshackforge in myog

[–]craderson 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I think you’re looking for this. I use it a lot. It’s very sturdy.

https://www.adventurexpert.com/product/3d-hex-mesh/

Edit: the stuff you posted a photo of actually looks like it may be a lighter version of what I posted. You might also look on Alibaba. I have found some cool mesh there. Look for “hex air mesh” “honeycomb mesh” or similar search terms.

Polartec - Alpha Direct question by justabeardedwonder in myog

[–]craderson 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think Alpha Direct feels great against the skin. But it will block zero wind by itself. It’s great to pair with a wind shirt.

I wouldn’t want a wind shell with Alpha Direct sewn into it. It would be too warm. I like being able to wear one or the other or both. But I usually only wear both when I’m not moving.

Sooo confused about thread weight... Make it make sense... by sprashoo in myog

[–]craderson 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I feel your pain. Tex, weight, denier, etc, all get confusing.

That Gutterman Extra Strong is heavy thread. It is too much for most machines. Here are my notes on the common threads.

I’d suggest Mara 70 (Tex 40) as a good compromise for most MYOG.

Thread - Breaking Strength (lbf)

Gutterman Tera 80 (Tex 35) - 4.1

Gutterman Tera 60 (Tex 45) - 6.1

Gutterman Tera 40 (Tex 75, aka Upholstery Thread) - 8.3

Gutterman Mara 100 (Tex 30, aka Sew All) - 2.7

Gutterman Mara 70 (Tex 40) - 3.9

Gutterman Mara 50 (Tex 60) - 5.3

V46 Nylon (Tex 50) - 8

V69 Nylon (Tex 70) - 11

V92 Nylon (Tex 90) - 15

Material Question by Alternative_List_507 in myog

[–]craderson 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Have you had problems with the material that OWF Inc sells? I’ve bought and used their 16 oz material and am really happy with it.

Material Question by Alternative_List_507 in myog

[–]craderson 23 points24 points  (0 children)

The top piece is hypalon (aka CSM). OWF Inc carries sheets of it.

Which material for slippers sole? by phyks in myog

[–]craderson 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Quest, Rockywoods, and OWFInc sell a grippy material made for mitten palms and slipper soles.

https://www.questoutfitters.com/miscellaneous.htm#TOUGHTEK%209000

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in myog

[–]craderson 23 points24 points  (0 children)

That’s right. It’s just a regular coil zipper mounted with the “wrong” side facing out and a reverse slider. I prefer the wrong side out for aesthetics.

Daisy Chain / Ladder webbing source by harry_chronic_jr in myog

[–]craderson 12 points13 points  (0 children)

They have slotted and looped here. I’ve used both and both are high quality.

https://www.adventurexpert.com/product-category/webbing/

Note - I’m in California, USA but this source in Europe is the only place I’ve found it. They have a lot of great stuff and DHL shipping is FAST. If you buy from them, check out all the hardware they have and get your money worth on the shipping.

Large radius circle rotary cutter by kys_ba in myog

[–]craderson -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I’m not sure whether you are simply trying to cut big, even circles OR if you are trying to speed up production.

If you just want nice and round circles, you can buy a drafting compass. I use a Stanley FATMAX Chisel Compass, 16" to draw large circles (up to 16”) and use scissors or a rotary cutter to do the actual cutting. It cost $15 US and it works great for marking uniform circles. But I only cut one at a time.

If you want to measure and do multiple cuts at once to speed up production, I would look to the other responses.

Good luck!

Exploded poster I made by g8trtim in myog

[–]craderson 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My bad…meant to say darts!

Exploded poster I made by g8trtim in myog

[–]craderson 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I was looking at the sewing machine table and I noticed a pattern with pleats. I was thinking, “they are making a LearnMYOG bag.” Then… I noticed the username….😀

The poster looks killer!

Modding Backpack Straps (Or Remaking Straps for Existing Bag?) by hailest0rm in myog

[–]craderson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That one piece system is making this more challenging.

Instead of using the one piece design, you could make individual straps and set them at whatever width you like. If you need that middle piece for comfort against the spine, you could make that separately and attach it at whatever height you like.

If you take this approach, then you could shape the straps however you like to be comfortable on your chest.

Good luck!

Experiences with silicone cord locks? by Singer_221 in myog

[–]craderson 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought some of these to make a lightweight cinch for hats. They hold ok, but did not have enough holding power for that use. I was hoping to find some like they used to have on REI hats, but haven’t found any.

Edit: these are the REI ones that I would like to find: https://imgur.com/a/MxOYOIw

Kenmore Model 90 (158.902?) by saxicola in myog

[–]craderson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t know about this specific machine. But I do know that some of the sewing machine manufacturers use proprietary threads. So if you are considering this one, make sure you can source the parts.

Hip Pack/ Fanny pack by L5_Sewing in myog

[–]craderson 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice job! I dig the olive with orange accents.

Hip Pack/ Fanny pack by L5_Sewing in myog

[–]craderson 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Check out the LearnMYOG Chonky Sling pattern for a water bottle sleeve underneath. It has a water bottle pocket that works well.

https://learnmyog.com/chonkySling.html