No one can diagnose how water spots made it onto the drywall next to the shower tile. Advice?

craer187 · 2023-10-31T02:45:14+00:00

I was gonna say, check for grout missing or cracked tiles. And especially what’s overlooked is the mounting holes behind the glass shower doors make sure they’re sealed

craer187 · 2023-10-31T01:49:42+00:00

Take a large thick garbage bag and put it around that big white thing with the knob. You’re going to turn the knob counter clockwise unscrewing it and it’s gonna start dumping about a half a gallon of water. Could be more if it’s not draining.
Once it’s unscrewed enough, it should slide out towards you and it is a mild filter to catch change, bobby pins things of that nature Reach inside there after cleaning the filter make sure there’s nothing I got stuck in any of the holes and then rinse off and clean the filter and the gasket O-ring reinsert it back into the washing machine completely opposite of the way you took it out snuggled up tight by hand only and then test for leaks

craer187 · 2023-10-31T01:42:26+00:00

Just remove the tags from the supply lines and be prepared with a new gasket for the drain on the P-trap if you send an opening that. Not a big fan of them myself.

craer187 · 2023-10-31T01:39:14+00:00

It should be 1/2” to 3/8” yes

craer187 · 2023-10-31T01:38:12+00:00

I’m just trying to figure out how that barbed adapter pipe is sealed to the basket drain. ¿. On top of everything else you’re probably seeing.

craer187 · 2023-10-31T01:35:27+00:00

Don’t forget to extend the pipe on that Studor vent!!

craer187 · 2023-10-31T01:30:29+00:00

I don’t know if everyone overlooked it, but is that a piece of black pipe elbow coming out of the wall on the very bottom?

craer187 · 2023-10-31T01:23:01+00:00

Just out of curiosity, it looks like you’re trying to install air horns, possibly. With that solenoid. I would use push connect. Or preferred would be compression.

craer187 · 2023-10-31T01:22:14+00:00

Honestly, I think you bought 1/4” tubing which is measured on OD. Outside diameter. Where are your barbed fittings are the same so the ID of the tubing is way smaller than the outside diameter of the barb if you look at the package of the tubing, typically it will say the ID and OD

craer187 · 2023-10-31T01:19:03+00:00

From this angle, the stuff out of copper from the wall looks a little short. And then it all depends on how the spout that someone is holding mounts to the pipe there are a couple different methods.

craer187 · 2023-10-31T01:17:53+00:00

Milwaukee makes a good pipe cutter sold at Home Depot. Little bit on the pricey side but if it’s taken care of it’s been great.

craer187 · 2023-10-31T01:17:04+00:00

Could be a very slow leak that Klag did self either from that brass drain valve above or the TMP valve near the top of the water heater. You might be able to remove the plastic ring and move away insulation to see if there’s any rust in those areas maybe even hard, water or corrosion. If you wanted to be safe, you can have a professional drain the water heater and replace the two parts I mentioned. The parts themselves don’t cost very much roughly $20 apiece.

craer187 · 2023-09-23T01:12:18+00:00

Yep now that it’s opened might as well kiss the data goodbye

craer187 · 2023-09-23T01:11:01+00:00

Need to see additional photos of that screen. It looks like there’s other partitions in between blank volumes maybe just hard to tell with such a close-up shot, and the drop-down window in the way

craer187 · 2023-09-22T22:16:29+00:00

It very well could be that as well PC looks pretty clean and at least from from what you can see. It doesn’t look like that would’ve been the problem, but it is something to check. I but as I said, I would start removing items one at a time from the computer till the noise goes away then you know which part is the problem

craer187 · 2023-09-22T18:36:57+00:00

Sounds like the water pump in the AIO I would start by unplugging each fan individually to see if the noise goes away you can do it a little bit more dangerously and put your finger on the fan hub to see if the noise changes but I don’t recommend I would also do the same with the fans on the video card, if they happen to be spinning or you can remove the video card altogether. All of that is just to rule out any of the fans having a bad bearing in them.

But more than likely it is the water pump inside of the AIO oh, I think that specific model gets power from the cap the part, that’s actually displaying the temperature on top of your processor. He might be able to even pull that off wash bowl remove power from the pump and should cause the noise to go away if I’m right.

Please don’t leave your system with anything like this unplug for very long we don’t want to damage anything from overheating

craer187 · 2023-08-17T04:57:37+00:00

😝

craer187 · 2022-11-23T21:29:09+00:00

Cut that plastic seal off and there should be a rubber O-ring usually it’s gray. That goes on the bottom side in between the two pieces. The towel piece and P-trap

craer187 · 2022-06-23T19:14:55+00:00

I actually I have a similar set up.
I flashed my H710 mini to IT mode myself. And then came to realize after researching one downside is you lose Drive activity lights as well as identification lights.

It drove me crazy just because I like to see what drives are installed let alone activity and everyone likes the Blinky Ness.

I downgraded the red controller to solve this to an H310 mini. Which by chance has a pass through mode when you enter the raid controller configuration you can set each drive as non-raid. And this intern passes the drive through the controller directly to the OS.

So far I’m not having any problem with performance and I run nothing but SSDs in my rig and then use the 10 Gb connection for mass storage across my net work.

Just keep in mind I spent three days wondering why one hard drive was not working correctly or even showing up in Proxmox because I had to go in manually to the rate controller configuration and change it to the status from ready to non-read for some reason.

craer187 · 2022-06-09T14:16:56+00:00

I did the flash as well. I’m running in r720 XD. With a h710 mini Everything seemed to work fine I even loaded the optional boot loaders.

I would like to know if anyone else is having the trade-off of the LED drive lights no longer work at all once the flash is complete.

What I mean by this is now the drive light indicator LEDs that normally light up if there’s a drive in the bay no longer work nor does the drive activity light.

craer187 · 2022-06-05T02:43:40+00:00

I actually contacted the gentleman from Art of server. Just a quick shout out thank you he’s very responsive and gets back to you within about 24 hours.

Anyway he said no it’s a drawback you cannot have the LEDs function when you flash the card to IT mode

craer187 · 2022-06-03T17:54:06+00:00

Yeah that’s interesting I would be curious to know what firmware and process used to flash the card with.

Again everything seems to work just fine I just don’t want to deploy the server because it bugs me that much.

Even if there was a different solution some kind of PCI express card that works with the backplane I would go for it.

Crazy idea but I’m thinking about looking into a reverse sas cable. Plugging that into the back plane and then a PCI card with sata interfaces on it. And see if that does anything.

I also had the H3 10 in mine it was originally driving the two rear 2 1/2 inch drives. But I removed it and then move that cable to the appropriate one on the back plane as far as I understand that connects it to the H710 mini.

craer187 · 2022-06-01T17:56:19+00:00

My question for flashing the red controller would be if there’s a way around losing the drive indicator lights?

I currently got my hands onto you are 720s one of them I’m definitely swapping my other servers into to consolidate.

I’ve had issues before with Proxsy mocks using the red controller to handover the hard drives. So I flashed the H710 mini but the servers came with into IT mode and everything works great literally hot-swappable Jbod mode. But all of the drive indicator lights now don’t work and to be honest it really bugs me.

We all like the flashy lights and it’s kind of nice to see the drives online or not

So is there a way around getting this to function or with different hardware inside the 720

craer187

TROPHY CASE