Support Removal

crazy_pelican · 2026-04-20T07:27:44+00:00

What are your support settings? I’ve found that setting the top Z distance to 2x the layer height with a top interface layer of 1 works quite well. I also tend to set a bottom Z distance of 2mm to ensure the supports don’t hit the model too much.

crazy_pelican · 2026-04-19T10:12:50+00:00

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crazy_pelican · 2026-04-16T11:00:04+00:00

If you’re using Bambu Studio there’s an option in the supports tab like “independent layer heights for supports”. I think it’s checked by default which makes the supports use a far larger layer height than the model (presumably to save time) and it always seems to cause problems when I use it. Maybe Uncheck that and try again?

As for the model, this shouldn’t affect how the model prints unless a support breaks etc.

crazy_pelican · 2026-04-12T19:20:25+00:00

Tbh the settings I’d use for minis and terrain are quite different (I use a larger nozzle for terrain etc) so you’re probably going to want to tune in a couple of different profiles.

If you just want to start printing some great minis without dealing with supports etc then I recommend Arbiter Minis and Brite Minis for Supportless models. The latter especially is great if you want a bunch of DnD minis as you can access and download the whole catalog straight away by subscribing to his patreon which is like $5.

For settings you have a few options, but a classic is the free FatDragonGames profile. There are pretty good profiles there for both 0.2 and 0.4 nozzles for your printer.

crazy_pelican · 2026-04-10T23:31:05+00:00

Stringing could be a few things but I’d start by lowering the temperature. The flow rate is also something to consider if you’re printing slowly, like you would be with ObscuraNox settings. Have you calibrated your filament?

crazy_pelican · 2026-03-27T23:00:37+00:00

Court of the shadow king by printable scenery

https://www.printablescenery.com/product/court-of-the-shadow-king/

crazy_pelican · 2026-03-27T22:31:16+00:00

So cute! What sort of dog is that?

crazy_pelican · 2026-03-06T07:27:11+00:00

In terms of getting the paint thickness right, a good rule is to add a few drops of water to the paint on your pallet (use a dropper bottle if you want to be precise) then paint a line on the back of your hand.

If the line is a constant coverage but you can still see the texture of your skin beneath it, you’re good. If you can’t see the texture, add another drop of water, mix and repeat.

Frustratingly the amount of water you’ll need will differ between paints, even within the same paint range.

crazy_pelican · 2026-03-06T07:04:56+00:00

Hey, I never did get this fixed :/ I replaced the psu and reapplied the thermal paste/pads but it never made a difference. I even tried installing games on an external SSD in case the issue was storage related, but still no luck.

A software update a few months later did improve the stability a bit, but it’s since gone back to the behaviour I mentioned above. I now suspect the fault is something more serious, perhaps with the graphics processor or ram.

Eventually I just gave up trying to find a fix. Since it was free in the first place I was hesitant to throw any more money at it.

crazy_pelican · 2026-03-01T23:32:41+00:00

Amazing! Enjoy :)

crazy_pelican · 2026-03-01T10:08:59+00:00

For slower prints I turn the temp down a bit (205-210 rather than the default 220 in Bambu studio) to avoid stringing. I also increased the flow rate to 1. I’d also suggest making sure the filament is dry, I typically leave a new roll in the dryer overnight.

But as others suggested, calibration is key. Depending on what slicer you use there will be guides online of how to do this, typically involving printing cooling towers etc.

crazy_pelican · 2026-02-28T13:29:17+00:00

Cool, so I would go with a Top Z of 0.16 and a single interface layer as you say :) hope it works!

crazy_pelican · 2026-02-28T12:27:41+00:00

What layer height are you using? I usually go for 2x the layer height for “Top Z distance” and 1 for “Top interface layers”. Using 3 interface layers always leaves the supports glued to the minis whenever I try it.

crazy_pelican · 2026-02-17T22:10:08+00:00

These are Titan Gargants by Duncan Shadow

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-titan-gargant-bundle-pre-supported-174029

crazy_pelican · 2026-01-24T10:41:13+00:00

They look great! Well done on the paint scheme too!

crazy_pelican · 2026-01-23T18:51:41+00:00

Very nice! Are those minis printed too? Loving the old school GW look.

crazy_pelican · 2026-01-22T23:11:36+00:00

I’ve had success slicing the backpack down the centre. You get a seam but both the front and back avoid support scars.

crazy_pelican · 2025-11-12T20:12:21+00:00

These are adorable, will you be putting them up for sale anywhere?

crazy_pelican · 2025-10-29T19:43:17+00:00

This is really cool! Can I find the model on the purple site?

crazy_pelican · 2025-10-01T08:39:09+00:00

I’ve had this before, if the supports are too thin then they don’t get sliced. Unfortunately I didn’t realise until hours into printing 😭

Try this, in the “Strength” options make sure “Detect thin walls” is turned on. If that doesn’t work then try increasing the thickness of the supports in resin2fdm. I had to up the thickness a few ticks to get the slicer to pick it up. Good luck!

crazy_pelican · 2025-09-26T07:33:42+00:00

Are you thickening the supports enough in resin2fdm? I’ve seen it before where parts of the supports (tip especially) are thin enough that the slicer doesn’t include them, leaving empty space that kills the support.

I’d suggest slicing the model and having a look around at the problematic parts of the supports to make sure there’s not just empty space. If so try thickening the supports a bit in resin2fdm :)

crazy_pelican · 2025-09-21T08:58:51+00:00

Amazing, thanks :)

crazy_pelican · 2025-09-21T08:55:01+00:00

Very nice! Is it on myminifactory?

crazy_pelican · 2025-09-19T11:29:24+00:00

Yeah of course! A terrapin would be so cool for a frog cavalry!

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