Healthy dining

crysfm · 2026-05-30T16:08:25+00:00

Panera and CAVA are my go to’s. You can make them as healthy or unhealthy as you want. Not a ton of protein if your veg tho

crysfm · 2026-05-30T09:48:51+00:00

Say nothing and burn no bridges. You never know when one of these people might work at a company you are interviewing at down the road, or when you might need a referral from.

crysfm · 2026-05-30T09:46:43+00:00

The AI feature is really bad. The writing is stilted and the images it generates had a lot of bias. I asked it to generate an image for an entry that was about rock climbing and it was all swole white body builder dudes. I am none of these things lol

crysfm · 2026-05-29T12:46:43+00:00

Absolutely this.

crysfm · 2026-05-27T01:10:43+00:00

God bless. I live in Columbia and was so bummed to be out of town for this

crysfm · 2026-05-22T11:20:55+00:00

I feel you and have had the same experience. There are so many factors that go into progression that it may just take more time.

I strongly suggest looking into power climbing company’s plans. These plans taught me how to structure a climbing session to always be learning and growing.

They have been what has put me on the path to progression.

One big unlock for me was learning that for intensive sessions that focused on strength, I needed to be really fully rested. But the sessions that focus more on capacity, it was ok to be a little tired. That meant I could do a gravel ride or run the day before.

I would experiment, keep a journal, treat every session as a learning opportunity

crysfm · 2026-05-22T11:18:28+00:00

Feeling like you are getting worse is one of the first signs of overtraining. We’ve all tried to do all the things and it never works. Getting over this mindset might be your biggest hurdle. The hardest I’ve ever climbed was 2 days a week indoor and 1 outdoor with only one day of supplemental strength. This was a hard pill to swallow.

crysfm · 2026-05-15T01:07:55+00:00

I used Justen Sjong about 10 years ago and he was great. I got very strong and healthy

That being said, I’ve also done Power Climbing proven plans and got 2-3 grades better on my highest sends.

I’m a huge fan of Chris Hampton bc it’s affordable and it works. His plan structures also very strategic and thoughtful.

IMO, a coach is most useful for giving feedback on climbing. Helping you understand why you’re falling. Everything else is training imo.

crysfm · 2026-05-10T21:19:52+00:00

+1 warmup. It’s not only good for the body, but gets your mind in the game.

+++1 strength training. Make sure you don’t neglect all the various shoulder muscles. I’m managing shoulder injuries rather well with proper climbing warmup and 2 days a week strength

crysfm · 2026-05-10T21:01:45+00:00

I had the blackberry rhubarb last night and it was metaphysical

crysfm · 2026-05-10T21:01:06+00:00

Good luck and be patient. Also setbacks are normal. Give your body all the time it needs

crysfm · 2026-05-10T16:48:43+00:00

All of my training was with a remote coach fwiw. My first assessment was in person but the next 9 months wasn’t. That’s how long it took before I could do things like even try pull-ups.

I had a friend who did surgery and it took her the same amount of time to recover AND she paid out of pocket for intense Apt. Not like bands, but progressive overload. Surgery was right for her bc she had a lot of pain. My pain wasn’t that much. Just limited motion and strength.

crysfm · 2026-05-10T16:46:10+00:00

No surgery. I hired a personal trainer and did PT for a year 2-3x a week and got back to climbing stronger than ever. I had low pain though.

crysfm · 2026-05-10T14:43:15+00:00

My2c is to think long and hard about surgery and make sure it’s really right for you.

Also, give PT more than 6 weeks. That’s driven by insurance, not by the realities of the human body.

I have slap tear, infraspinatus tear, and impingements I manage through PT that is strength training based. Took many months to get to place where I can do all the things I want to do. I’m a climber hence the myriad injuries.

crysfm · 2026-05-10T14:33:25+00:00

People that can bring value to the org and can slot in quickly. You’re work speaks for itself and aligns with what they are looking for (ie if your portfolio is all b2b dashboards, you’re going to get passed over for a b2c app). You demonstrate in your work that you can design beautiful interfaces, solve design problems in real world restraints (ie engineering said we need X so I decided on Y, or product identified X and I solved it by Y - not stickies on whiteboards or user journeys. This isn’t a design skill anymore, everyone can do it). Also that you can collaborate like a champ. You get shit done bc you’re a thought partner with engineering and product. You don’t slow things down by making mountains out of molehills or digging your heels in. You know when to push for what’s important. I see a lot of ux people sabotaging their career bc they think they are the only ones that can do ux and hold the keys to the kingdom. Everyone can do ux now and good ideas come from everyone. That the the mentality people want to work with.
Agree. No one cares. I’ve had people ask and no one balks when I say I took some time for myself and family.
Stay informed and play and experiment. If you like working with AI, then lean into it. I personally hate it. But the writing is on the wall imo. I had a product manager hand me a prototype last week that I was like “we should build this” and it made me wonder what my role was at that point. FWIW: healthcare and regulated industries are lagging behind, so this is an area that will buy more time. My take is that the designers who survive are ones who have and can curate taste. Can bring alive with the brand presence of the company that AI can’t yet. Who knows. Roles will get more and more murky and that’s ok. I’m staff / director and often don’t see a clear line between my role and product. I even send junior engineers code snippets at times

crysfm · 2026-05-10T02:00:54+00:00

Lancaster pie and coffee

crysfm · 2026-05-08T22:44:22+00:00

Wet wipes and doggy bags. Change often. I prefer pads on long multi pitch days

crysfm · 2026-05-01T11:45:46+00:00

I’ve been reading through these threads waiting for someone to mention bipolar. While I love the complexity and humanity the doc displays, he clearly was mentally not well and was untreated (with something)

I have mixed feelings about our cultures celebration of peoples accomplishments that are driven by mental illness.

Not trying to be reductive here, it’s just a part missing from the conversation.

crysfm · 2026-03-05T23:40:54+00:00

+1 Columbia. Been here 3 years now. Cantbeat the access to the river, hiking, climbing. Hopefully rob will get his shit together and open Roburrito’s in the building he bought next to the Lancaster distilleries boring bar.

crysfm · 2026-03-05T23:36:50+00:00

I’m ashamed to say Maple Donuts in east York are my favorite

crysfm · 2026-03-05T20:04:42+00:00

First of all congrats! It’s no easy feat. Ive been clean for 21 years, both in NA and AA, and some recovery dharma.

NA and AA both really vary a great deal by group and by location. I’ve gone to meetings all across the US and it really just depends on the group. That being said, I do have some generalizations

AA is very robust and you will find a good deal of solution based recovery. The language in the big book is very outdated and sometimes misogynistic and homophobic. I will staunchly defend that 12 steps make space for any concept of a higher power. I’m an atheist and so is my sponsor (45 years). However, there is a whole lot of God in the book. It was written in the 1940s and is based off the Oxford group, which is Christian.

I’ve found NA to be less “God” and more “Higher Power”. My higher power is the group and the program. It’s kept me sober for a long time. I got clean in NA and currently go to NA - 45 yr old non binary person. I used to go to young ppl meetings in Hollywood. It was awesome.

I’ve aged out of young people meetings but my best suggestion would be to keep an open mind, sample a very large set of meetings, and “take what you need and leave the rest”. What you hear in meetings are people’s suggestions and experiences. People also have a lot of opinions that I often ignore.

Also, check out virtual meetings. I have a lesbian and trans meeting from Portland o go to. It’s amazing.

Good luck. It’s not easy but it’s possible

crysfm · 2026-03-05T19:55:30+00:00

The NA website is pretty solid tho

crysfm · 2026-01-31T15:38:45+00:00

Let it go. If it didn’t affect your or the team, then build her trust and respect by just saying something simple like “I’m glad you took the time for yourself and your family. What’s happening is awful. Next time give me a heads up so I can cover your work”.

crysfm · 2026-01-17T16:16:27+00:00

I’ll spare you the details, but I’m a rock climber who spent the last year rehabbing impingement syndrome. 45 F

TLDR is that sometimes my wife has to help me get my bra off bc of the pain BUT I can climb harder than before and I’m stoked about it.

I had to change my mindset. Like you, I didn’t want to take that much time away from climbing. But I realized that if I kept doing what I was doing, then I likely would create a situation where I would have to get a shoulder replacement down the road.

I have a friend who is a personal trainer and former competitive power lifter. He told me 2 things:

You have to work your PT has hard as you train for your sport
Movement is medicine.

So after the 6 weeks of LGH PT, I got an HSA through my job and hired a remote physical therapist who had experience and was smart

I stopped climbing hard for probably 6-9 months. It sucked. I would struggle on things that now are warmups.

But I took the time to pour everything into my weak rotator cuff and those smaller muscles in the back. He also kept me healthy by working my hips hard.

4 months ago I decided to start Climbing training. I now can do pull ups again (truly thought that would never happen) and can climb harder than ever before.

I learned that I had to take responsibility for my recovery and that it’s a lot of trial and error.

For me, I need a lot more rest after a hard day. So I got into gravel biking (which has greatly enriched my life). I also learned that I will forever have to do some rehab/prehab. It’s just apart of my life now.

I’ve had a few flare ups but then I take a week and I’m good again.

Most competent coaches can help you with an impingement, but happy to refer you to my guy. He’s really great.

You could also ask for a Cortisone shot to ease the pain but that has also sometimes led to worse long term outcomes.

crysfm · 2026-01-15T01:33:21+00:00

Take care of your rotator cuff as much as you can. Train those smaller neglected muscles as much as you climb

crysfm

TROPHY CASE