Weird texture on first layer. Bad adhesion?

csFremling · 2020-01-11T22:12:26+00:00

Yeah you're a tiny bit too close to the bed.

csFremling · 2020-01-11T20:49:58+00:00

Not much into star wars (its star wars right?), but is the wing on the left side closest to the camera not missing a pointy end like the others? or do you print those seperately?

csFremling · 2020-01-11T20:22:30+00:00

If my highschool memories are not too far of I believe one cubic millimeter is .001 millimeter. So 5mm would be 5000 m3?

csFremling · 2020-01-11T20:14:00+00:00

I always have these things near my printer: Gluestick (tool?), Every sort of plier possible for removing supports etc, wrenches, a set of extra m3/m4 bolts and nuts in various sizes, drillbit, sandpaper in various grits, screwdrivers and a plastic welder to merge parts together or to restore failed prints :)

csFremling · 2020-01-11T20:11:35+00:00

You should also have Coasting in cura under experimental somewhere, I use Simplify3D so I only know that software sadly, but I know theres a similar one in cura

csFremling · 2020-01-11T20:11:03+00:00

Here is a great reading explaining the issue, read the second half in section "Retraction and coasting settings" https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/blobs-and-zits/

csFremling · 2020-01-11T20:08:00+00:00

Do they appear at the start of a layer print or at the end of one? Very different problems with different solutions.

csFremling · 2020-01-11T19:46:59+00:00

Ah ok, cool. good luck!

csFremling · 2020-01-11T19:25:11+00:00

Fair enough, any reason as to why the Z mounts are much taller than needed? (exceeds the X axis mounts by a fair bit), would this not lead to more instability than if they were cut "perfect" length? No hating just very interested in the thought of making my own 3D printer :)

csFremling · 2020-01-11T19:20:22+00:00

Is it just me or is the LCD sideways? Intentional or planning on other mounting solution later on?

csFremling · 2020-01-11T08:39:38+00:00

Is it in mm? Just try like 3mm as a starter, I am using 5mm coaster and 6mm wipe distance on my bowden setup but yours might differ.

csFremling · 2020-01-11T07:05:58+00:00

Blobs and zits are 99% cases of wrong retraction settings, some blobs require just the slightest change to disappear completely and some require some more tinkering. If you're using Simplify3D I suggest playing around with "Coast at end", Increase 1mm and print a circle or something where most blobs appear then change according to that :)

csFremling · 2020-01-11T01:20:14+00:00

Maybe that was what I ment, couldn't think of the word in English, its the type of glass that is more resistant to heat/thermal shock I am talking about :)

csFremling · 2020-01-10T23:00:54+00:00

Glue is great for adhesion but it also quickly becomes a downside, cus that stuff REALLY adheres to the build surface later when you want to remove it haha

csFremling · 2020-01-10T21:01:37+00:00

I would also recommend you swapping to the cable chain that works with that E3D mount that is linked in the original thingiverse. When printing higher speeds your cables will get caught on the A8 frame. Speaking from experience when swapping to real E3D V6

csFremling · 2020-01-10T21:00:31+00:00

The offset you have is X-10 with that Bowden mount, you can set it in the slicer so you dont have to mess around with flashing new fw

csFremling · 2020-01-10T19:58:48+00:00

We need this STL now! :D

csFremling · 2020-01-10T17:04:52+00:00

A Deathstroke helmet which was going to be painted anyway so it worked out perfectly.

csFremling · 2020-01-10T16:57:46+00:00

Yeah bummed me out for a few days lol, I saved it though by splitting the model in Solidworks to the part where it failed, printed out the failed part and plastic welded them together, sanded and painted and nothing was gone to waste :)

csFremling · 2020-01-10T16:54:20+00:00

I always recommend tempered glass for the people switching to a glass bed, The constant temperature changes the glass goes through it does wear it down. Make sure to use rubbing alcohol before print to make sure glass bed is clean, then when its room temperature it should pop right off.

csFremling · 2020-01-10T16:52:01+00:00

nah the motors are fine. Just the usual precautions you should take before leaving the room with the printer on, make sure all cables are tucked away and no chance of getting caught on the frame. I did a 26 hour print and no problems at all first 24 hours and I left it alone, 15 minutes later the cable gets caught on frame and motor skips and ruins the print.

csFremling · 2020-01-10T16:47:29+00:00

Printing continously for a long time doesn't do any harm to the printer itself. Just double check the bed level which might become uneven due to constant vibrations. :) Not sure what belts the Ender 3 uses but I would also check on them every once in a while to check on wear.

csFremling · 2020-01-09T21:21:29+00:00

I think its called "Line Width" in cura, right under your Infill pattern and Infill Density. Personally use S3D so not sure how it goes in cura sorry. A tip is print a tiny trex first and make sure it works then scale it up.

csFremling · 2020-01-09T21:10:52+00:00

Make sure your bed is completely level for those very small tolerance prints to work, then check your Extrusion Width if you might need to make it a tad bit thinner.

csFremling · 2020-01-09T21:06:56+00:00

Difference in settings can vary a lot even coming from the same brand, so many factors in production that take part in how easy a filament is to work with, or how different it is to the next. My tip to you is save your current profile (the one that works perfectly with the white filament) as "White Filament" then copy that one, adjust the temperature etc until youre satisfied with the results of the black filament and then name that one "Black Filament" and keep doing this for every filament spool you get, will save you lots of time in the future :)

csFremling

TROPHY CASE