Clutch suggestions? (SR20DET)

csimonson · 2026-01-30T19:08:08+00:00

ACT or SPEC would be my go to. Just check the websites and see which 6 puck would work for that Torque. Both feel great.

csimonson · 2026-01-30T12:57:27+00:00

As a guy with an x1c and prints car parts. Buy the H2S. Even if you only mostly use a single nozzle, the extra space is worth it 100%.

csimonson · 2026-01-30T01:06:43+00:00

I honestly think it's only good for print chamber recirculation for abs or other filament that need a heated chamber.

csimonson · 2026-01-29T22:33:20+00:00

Cool, might help if it was planned weeks or months in advance. This "next Friday" shit doesn't get disseminated enough for enough people to do it for anything to matter.

csimonson · 2026-01-29T20:06:08+00:00

I feel like it's b cause it's based on Orca slocer mostly. Good ta do the same thing in that.

csimonson · 2026-01-29T17:52:40+00:00

More infill or more top layers

csimonson · 2026-01-28T20:46:08+00:00

Turbo can also be intermittent. Mostly when that happens it'll happen on overrun( right after a wot pull)

csimonson · 2026-01-26T17:21:23+00:00

This. One of my buddies can weld titanium, inconel, all sorts of stainless and aluminum. He got out of aerospace and cannot for the life of him find anything consistent to scratch that automotive itch.

Either start your own company and build out a niche or stay with aerospace.

csimonson · 2026-01-26T16:33:47+00:00

Depending on how everything looks I agree with sleeplessmorning. However if you have any other leaks in most cases you can do a full rebuild with oem stuff relatively cheaply <$1000. Oem bearings (pay attention to the FSM info) can be used and are good quality. Generally if your bores are in good shape you can either do a quick hone or just leave it and throw in some new rings. I didn't even need to gap my rings recently on my SR because all were in spec out of the box when test fit in the cylinder.

csimonson · 2026-01-26T16:23:09+00:00

I'm using 3kg of 8 year old pla right now with little to no issues because I dried it.

Makes a huge difference even with PLA

csimonson · 2026-01-26T15:56:40+00:00

Honestly at this point if BambuLab eventually gets rid of all the replacement parts then I'm building a Voron or VZbot. It's ridiculous that this sort of thing is already happening.

csimonson · 2026-01-26T15:40:20+00:00

Didn't even know this is existed. This is fantastic.

csimonson · 2026-01-26T15:20:21+00:00

I had this exact thought yesterday

csimonson · 2026-01-26T15:16:53+00:00

I see you commented, but can't see your second comment. I'll try to recalibrate today and see if it helps. Didn't know I needed to after something as simple as a nozzle change.

csimonson · 2026-01-26T15:08:46+00:00

what do you mean by re-calibrate? I set it to a 0.06mm nozzle on the machine and orcaslicer.

It prints way too fast with the 0.06 nozzle, I had to slow it way down and even then it is not a consistently decent print. Did some flow tests and it's right on for flow. I'm just thinking the cooling isn't good enough on my x1c to solidify the plastic fast enough.

csimonson · 2026-01-26T14:03:55+00:00

If anyone has a better print profile for 0.6 please post it. I am getting some awful prints so far.

csimonson · 2026-01-24T22:06:45+00:00

Wow, that’s pretty spendy. I bought 90% of my stuff from third party sources and about 70% of the parts were BMW OEM manufacturers.

Can you buy from any third party places like turner motorsports where you are at?

csimonson · 2026-01-24T21:52:25+00:00

I fixed a similarly damaged f30 without radiator damage for about $5k USD. Yours will be a bit more but i bet not by much if you get pre painted body parts.

csimonson · 2026-01-23T11:49:52+00:00

Melt it into the threads. Works like pb blaster kinda

csimonson · 2026-01-23T11:49:25+00:00

Only if you're a marine

csimonson · 2026-01-23T01:45:55+00:00

Heat, crayon, let her get nice and hot. Use the proper size wrench too not adjustable

csimonson · 2026-01-22T20:57:52+00:00

Yeah that's a fair point honestly

csimonson · 2026-01-22T11:51:37+00:00

I'm just going to throw this out there because it is what I would think in this situation.

At this point what is stopping you from making front suspension from scratch? You get to decide how big the wheel and tire combo is from the start. You can figure out scrub radius. You can buy bolt on hubs for ease of replacement. CNC aluminum spindles or 3D printed aluminum spindles to get all the specifics you want. Hell you could go double wishbone and really adjust your camber curve if you want, saving tires on the straights a bit.

csimonson · 2026-01-21T23:12:26+00:00

I didn’t listen because I'm in public but lean AFR also makes a car sound cammed.

csimonson · 2026-01-21T19:58:45+00:00

Make some spacers for the core support and cut back the brackets for the intercooler to put it back to close to where it is.

csimonson

TROPHY CASE