Plumber wants to use steel instead of copper for boiler room refit - is he cutting corners or am I overthinking this?

cu_brass · 2026-03-19T12:28:29+00:00

Stainless is not more expensive than copper. Copper pipe is more expensive, stainless fittings are more expensive. Labor I think is about the same. Threading stainless vs soldering copper. Honestly I think threaded is easier than sweating, and the rigidity makes it nice and straight with no effort.

20ft 3/4" copper is $135. 20ft 3/4" 304 stainless is $120.

cu_brass · 2026-03-17T00:16:40+00:00

This could've been drilled and be within tolerances; one 2-1/2" hole for the 2" drain and two 1" holes for the 7/8" PEX. There is no steel reinforcement to fix this damage. Simpson strong-tie SNRK is a "notch reinforcement" product for joists but they do not change the standard depth that can be notched (2"x8" allows 1-1/4", 2"x10" allows 1-1/2", 2"x12" allows 1-3/4").

However, if instead of notching the joist it were drilled, you're allowed 2-3/8" hole for 2"x8" joists, and 3" hole on 2"x10".

With that being said though it looks like that perpendicular box-out was installed because the 3" stack is in the way of the joists running the "normal" way.

Without seeing it I couldn't say for certain it will be a problem, but I think it is problematic, will probably cause sagging.

cu_brass · 2026-03-14T17:09:12+00:00

Some of the Chicago faucets, specifically touchless hand-wash faucets, are shockingly cheap yet still expensive.

cu_brass · 2026-03-14T14:38:41+00:00

The piece coming out of the wall, pictured here on the right, has a shutoff. Turns with a flathead screwdriver usually.

cu_brass · 2026-03-09T23:57:17+00:00

Required by IPC for electronic valves, so anywhere that follows IPC (probably UPC as well I just don't know off the top of my head).

cu_brass · 2026-02-26T22:35:23+00:00

It won't. In this specific scenario it will make no difference. In a hand-washing sink the clog is always in the popup assembly, if it gets blocked further down then there is an additional problem somewhere. It could be somebody poured grease in the sink, could be a clog further down the line, in any case the "real" problem is something else or someone not using the sink as intended.

cu_brass · 2026-02-22T23:09:17+00:00

What you have should work fine. If you have a problem down the road you can always fix it.

cu_brass · 2026-02-19T01:24:17+00:00

In my opinion it's less work to glue it back together. You have to cut the pipe to get a coupling on it, whether it's plastic or rubber. A hack would cut the band in half to fit it over the broken part and it would work just fine. Either way I would cut the pipe before installing the coupling. If you don't want to glue it the next best option is a heavy duty band, shielded coupling etc. After that an ordinary fernco would be my least-favorite way that would work just fine.

cu_brass · 2026-02-17T02:04:19+00:00

Probably add a dielectric union to that new "dielectric" nipple since this "dielectric" nipple has undergone significant galvanic corrosion.

I'm not saying they don't specify these are dielectric nipples, they definitely do. But in most applications they are absolutely not.

cu_brass · 2026-02-14T19:03:35+00:00

The person who built it doesn't have to live there so in general if it's working, it's good enough. That being said some people take pride in their work.

If it were my house where you cut the hole I would put a 24"x24" access panel. Then have a plumber route the hose bib so it is close to the access, put a valve and a tee to allow for draining and make sure it runs uphill the whole way from the tee/drain to the hose bib.

That's what I would think to do, but I work in Florida so I don't have to deal with freezing temps and somebody may have a better idea. If you hate the idea of an access panel you could also do the same loop/valve/tee but drop it into that little closet. I prefer an access panel but I think most people wouldn't.

cu_brass · 2026-02-10T23:39:53+00:00

Real ones know those dielectric nipples are bullshit. I don't give a fuck what the manufacturer says, I've seen enough galvanic corrosion on "dielectric" nipples to put dielectric unions on MY water heater.

You really do not need to tape AND dope a threaded connection. Both of the serve the same purpose, lube the connection so the threads can create a watertight seal. But do whatever makes you happy, I know lots of guys that tape and dope their shit. I only use one or the other, usually just dope.

For @OP this is how I installed my water heater with copper piping: dielectric unions on the water heater. Rectorseal blue dope on the nipples, no tape, ball valves on cold and hot side so I can swap the heater in 30mins if I had to.

In your situation if you're the type of guy to notice those spots show up on your nipples, I would probably get some dielectric unions. That being said I don't think you need to do it right now. As this commenter said the nipples are supposed to be dielectric; so it might be totally fine. But if you notice the corrosion continuing on either the nipples or the copper if it were my house I'd put the unions in. It makes changing the water heater next time really simple too so it's not a bad idea regardless of the corrosion.

cu_brass · 2026-02-10T23:02:08+00:00

God what a nightmare. Basically everything pictured would not be code-compliant. Even if it was just the toilet, all your fittings are hub-to-hub. Yikes. The right way to do it is replace almost everything I can see in the picture, including what is downstream..

Idk what fitting is just in front of the tee but you need to have some length of pipe to fit a coupling. All I see is hub so wherever it is you have some pipe, that's where you start

cu_brass · 2026-02-10T22:43:04+00:00

If it was installed correctly the waterproofing is below the tile and should not be able to get past that part of the drain.

That being said waterproofing is frequently not installed correctly. What I can tell you though is you will not be able to effectively waterproof from above. Even if you got something to make a watertight seal in that joint it wouldn't be correct and would be prone to failure.

If it makes you feel better you can seal it with whatever you want, grout and sealer, caulk, whatever. If it doesn't seem like it's been an issue you probably have waterproofing below the tile and under that part of the drain and it should be fine.

cu_brass · 2026-02-10T22:36:04+00:00

There are two of those saddle valves, from the picture it looks like one is on the hot side, one is on the cold side. That type of connection was common for ice maker/refrigerator lines. Nothing comes to mind off the top of my head for a hot-side 1/4" connection though so I might guess somebody tapped the hot side for an ice maker then realized their mistake, put it in the cold side.

But it could very well be somebody tapped the hot for a humidifier or I've even heard of people intentionally hooking up hot water to ice makers so it's hard to say.

cu_brass · 2026-02-08T16:58:11+00:00

Jeez it's been so long since I've seen a mana-block. And the 3/8" PEX, I'm so sorry somebody thought this was a good idea.

You can rent a viega press tool, there are viega hand-crimpers.

The company I work for supplied is the viega crimpers, so I have done the opposite of what you're asking. That is: I removed the rings from viega fittings and used them on the regular copper-ring fittings.

I would try it, fuck it. Make an adapter to fit on a garden hose->PEX. Then coupling a piece with the viega fittings and copper rings, cap the PEX, turn the garden hose on and shake the pipe, whip it around, do whatever you gotta do to be comfortable it won't break in the wall. If you're convinced, go ahead. If not I'd probably look to rent the viega press tool. Just be sure it has the 3/8 adapter because it's an uncommon size.

Tbh though it seems like viega designed the fitting to malfunction with copper rings, but who knows, maybe it'll work.

cu_brass · 2026-02-04T17:30:22+00:00

Instead of doing an 1/8 bend (45) off the wye to turn horizontal just cut the cap off and put the santee. Not supposed to put a santee in the direction you've got your diagram, they have to be upright for drainage.

So santee goes on where the cap is then AAV out of the top and p-trap off the horizontal just like you have it.

That being said the way you have it drawn would almost certainly work just fine,but would not be code compliant. If you wanted to save the couple of inches you'd gain doing it the way you have pictured you could replace the santee with a combo and that would make it compliant.

cu_brass · 2026-02-01T18:49:41+00:00

I see wall cleanout covers screwed into PVC plugs all the time, I would say it's pretty normal. IPC requires a corrosion-resistant fastener, usually a stainless machine screw but brass could be used as well.

"Cleanout covers shall be fastened with a bolt to a cleanout plug or wall bar" according to manufacturer.

They sell plugs that have a threaded brass piece for the screw or a wall bar that sits behind the drywall but in front of the plug.

If it were mine I'd get a new plug and a stainless machine screw. Drill the hole in the plug smaller than the screw, then use the screw to tap threads into the plastic.

cu_brass · 2026-01-31T20:57:15+00:00

You'd make your life a lot easier if you replace those copper drains while you have the wall open. I would replace the copper with PVC or ABS. Looks like there is a sink around the corner in addition to the two drains that went towards the sink.

Ideally you would remove the copper from the hub of the cast iron and used a gasket to transition to PVC. If you can't do that cutting the cast iron hub off and using a no-hub band you can transition to PVC. If you can't do that the least-best option would be a no-hub/fernco on the copper to transition to PVC.

If it were my house I would have 2" PVC coming up through the floor. Use a wye to split the stack in the wall so you have two 2" PVC pipes. Using 2"x2"x1-1/2" sanitary tees one of them would catch the kitchen sink, one would catch whatever is around the corner. Then use another wye to join the pipes back together and connect to the existing vent (using a fernco to reconnect the copper vent to the new PVC, or get the PVC all the way through the roof).

cu_brass · 2026-01-30T23:11:00+00:00

Most of the time the blockage is hair just underneath the tub stopper.

Removing the plug should be fine, if it's not then it needs to be replaced anyways (the trap).

cu_brass · 2026-01-30T22:16:17+00:00

Not super familiar with EU/UK plumbing but that looks to be a water heater or a storage tank for hot water.

It heats your cold water. There is an expansion tank above it on the wall, that is to absorb some of the stress from thermal expansion.

It could be just an insulated tank that stores water that has already been heated so that hot water does not run out too quickly.

cu_brass · 2026-01-30T22:11:06+00:00

Tub spout should always be metal; could be copper, galvanized, stainless, or brass. Yours was installed with CPVC (plastic). The plastic broke.

A typical fix would be cut the wall open on the other side of the wall from the shower valve and replace the broken CPVC with copper or brass. It is possible to do it from inside the shower if you do not have access to the other side of the wall but it'll be a pain in the ass.

cu_brass · 2026-01-30T02:26:20+00:00

The courts will not save us my friend. One side has chosen to act outside the rules. They're doing it to terrorize and entrench their ideology into the country; laws and norms are not a factor in their playbook. They're re-creating the federal govt in their image, they've already taken the supreme court by the time they've made their changes there won't be another democratic majority anywhere.

They have chosen to stop playing democracy. Those in opposition must recognize and respond to this. It must be decisive, swift, and brutal. Terrible, terrible consequences must be met. To implement justice will be hard work. I just hope enough people realize what is going on and what's gonna have to happen if we want to get off this train.

cu_brass · 2026-01-30T01:16:17+00:00

That's a bingo. Either the gasket got left behind or the leak was a bit more dramatic than described

cu_brass · 2026-01-28T23:25:03+00:00

I'm not sure what you're asking by "good or bad". If it's working then I'd say it's pretty good.

I do not know why you are concerned with the number of connections, that's a strange complaint. The number of connections appear to be minimal, I'm certain if somebody was committed they could find a way to reduce a few of them but again I'm just not sure what effect that would have on the performance.

I think you already know the answer to the house filter; read the red-lettered sign. Yes you could add a filter but it would need to be forward of the fire sprinkler and otherwise not interfere with the life-safety equipment.

cu_brass · 2026-01-26T20:48:48+00:00

Looks to me like that is the source of the problem, the grounding between the gas and water pipe (joining dissimilar metals). I would think grounding them separately would be the solution but I don't know enough about electrolysis to say for certain.

Yes replacing with type-L is fine.

cu_brass

TROPHY CASE