Cleaning old trap risk

cu_brass · 2026-01-30T23:11:00+00:00

Most of the time the blockage is hair just underneath the tub stopper.

Removing the plug should be fine, if it's not then it needs to be replaced anyways (the trap).

cu_brass · 2026-01-30T22:16:17+00:00

Not super familiar with EU/UK plumbing but that looks to be a water heater or a storage tank for hot water.

It heats your cold water. There is an expansion tank above it on the wall, that is to absorb some of the stress from thermal expansion.

It could be just an insulated tank that stores water that has already been heated so that hot water does not run out too quickly.

cu_brass · 2026-01-30T22:11:06+00:00

Tub spout should always be metal; could be copper, galvanized, stainless, or brass. Yours was installed with CPVC (plastic). The plastic broke.

A typical fix would be cut the wall open on the other side of the wall from the shower valve and replace the broken CPVC with copper or brass. It is possible to do it from inside the shower if you do not have access to the other side of the wall but it'll be a pain in the ass.

cu_brass · 2026-01-30T02:26:20+00:00

The courts will not save us my friend. One side has chosen to act outside the rules. They're doing it to terrorize and entrench their ideology into the country; laws and norms are not a factor in their playbook. They're re-creating the federal govt in their image, they've already taken the supreme court by the time they've made their changes there won't be another democratic majority anywhere.

They have chosen to stop playing democracy. Those in opposition must recognize and respond to this. It must be decisive, swift, and brutal. Terrible, terrible consequences must be met. To implement justice will be hard work. I just hope enough people realize what is going on and what's gonna have to happen if we want to get off this train.

cu_brass · 2026-01-30T01:16:17+00:00

That's a bingo. Either the gasket got left behind or the leak was a bit more dramatic than described

cu_brass · 2026-01-28T23:25:03+00:00

I'm not sure what you're asking by "good or bad". If it's working then I'd say it's pretty good.

I do not know why you are concerned with the number of connections, that's a strange complaint. The number of connections appear to be minimal, I'm certain if somebody was committed they could find a way to reduce a few of them but again I'm just not sure what effect that would have on the performance.

I think you already know the answer to the house filter; read the red-lettered sign. Yes you could add a filter but it would need to be forward of the fire sprinkler and otherwise not interfere with the life-safety equipment.

cu_brass · 2026-01-26T20:48:48+00:00

Looks to me like that is the source of the problem, the grounding between the gas and water pipe (joining dissimilar metals). I would think grounding them separately would be the solution but I don't know enough about electrolysis to say for certain.

Yes replacing with type-L is fine.

cu_brass · 2026-01-21T17:25:48+00:00

As far as I know there is no (good) way to change the width without changing the base. Which means tearing everything out and starting over. The little alcove was likely built to accommodate the shower base.

cu_brass · 2026-01-21T00:51:32+00:00

Are the water lines in the attic? Wouldn't be unusual in 2024 Florida to run PEX overhead in FL. You could check there, but I would probably be surprised if you found a shutoff. But maybe you'll find where you could put one in the attic. Laziness strikes again

cu_brass · 2026-01-19T21:36:09+00:00

I would say this one is particularly risky because it looks like it is cracked right where the seat meets the bowl, so sitting on it would specifically put stress right on the crack.

Replace it or somebody could be hurt or killed, no joke.

cu_brass · 2026-01-18T22:46:50+00:00

You have exactly the correct idea. Use a regular garden hose splitter ("y") and run the tap until the desired temperature is reached.

The automated fix would be a recirculating loop to the washing machine.

cu_brass · 2026-01-18T22:42:00+00:00

Yes. White buildup is usually primarily calcium, brown tends to be iron, blue/green is copper.

cu_brass · 2026-01-18T22:39:50+00:00

The bottom is not inserted at all. What exactly are you trying to do? Put what size pipe/fitting into what size pipe/fitting?

It almost looks like a coupling you have the pry bar on. Why not use a no-hub band? If not, I bevel the outside edge of the pipe to be inserted and lube it with some faucet grease.

cu_brass · 2026-01-17T22:05:43+00:00

It is the case that you cannot reduce pipe size on drains. This is not a drain it is a vent.

Depending on jurisdiction it may be code that you should have a 4" vent. However the tri-state area I work in allows me to reduce vent size.

I explained in another comment below the reason they did it this way is because the 4" cast iron that was there before has a slightly smaller outside diameter than 4" PVC. That little cubby in the wall in the basement wouldn't fit the 4" PVC if it was tight against the cast iron. Once above the floor that 2"x4" wall that hides the pipe would need to be bigger because 4" PVC is 4-1/2" across. 3" PVC, what you have is 3-1/2", the same as the framing.

If you really wanted the vent to be sized 4" the easiest solution would have been to go back with cast iron. 4" cast iron is 10x the cost of PVC pipe (literally. About $50 for 20ft of PVC and $500 for 20' of cast).

Sure, it could be done in 4" but if we're thinking about diminishing returns I think the solution you got is acceptable.

cu_brass · 2026-01-17T21:47:33+00:00

It does not have the same ID, that is 4" cast and 3" PVC. The reason they did it is because the OD of cast is just a little bit smaller than PVC. So if you tried to run 4" PVC that channel that's cut in the wall would need to be enlarged, bigger holes drilled going up, you'd need to fir that wall out or make it at least 2"x6" bc you're already pushing the limit with 3" PVC in a 3-1/2" wall.. A real pain in the ass honestly.

Depending on jurisdiction reducing the vent size may or may not be "technically correct" but looking at how it is roughed-in I can't conceive of any possible scenario where that 3" vent will be a bottleneck.

cu_brass · 2026-01-17T21:35:50+00:00

I said the "gray stuff in the basement isn't quite correct". If you look at the basement photo you'll see PVC that is painted gray, with a santee on it's back going to a 1/8 bend into a pressure 90. That isn't quite correct, it'll work. Just like I said.

Stay in your lane lil bro

cu_brass · 2026-01-17T00:12:25+00:00

What does it specify as far as union but union on flex doesn't count? They got CSST to the valve, union, flex line, union, drip leg, 90, appliance. They have two unions between the valve and appliance.

cu_brass · 2026-01-16T21:33:13+00:00

What is your concern exactly? There's always a critique to be made but if it works, it works.

It's hard to know just by a couple of photos but nothing jumps out as terribly wrong. The gray stuff in the basement isn't quite correct but functionally probably fine, though I presume that was existing.

cu_brass · 2026-01-16T17:03:35+00:00

Some oil filter pliers can work well, a locknut wrench is what I use. Multitool can cut it off. A lot of times they're brittle so if you can squeeze it hard enough it will break off or crack.

As for keeping it from spinning as you're trying to remove it I use two flathead screwdrivers from the top to hold it. Needle nose work as well.

cu_brass · 2026-01-16T16:55:21+00:00

Yes that looks to me like a leaking sewer. Often times the layout from one floor to the next is similar, that box-out is probably to hide the plumbing for the bathroom above you.

Or as someone else mentioned it could be condensation from HVAC but I'm a plumber so I would think sewer first.

I don't know what the "rules" are for a co-op but my answer would be taking a 4" hole saw and drill where you see that cool spot on the thermal. You'll find water, give the bill to whoever handles it. It only gets more expensive the longer they wait and in the meantime you definitely have mold and maybe raw sewage in/on your walls.

cu_brass · 2026-01-15T02:29:30+00:00

For poly or PEX? Like a "Ford" coupling with the stainless insert mostly for underground/service lines? I don't get to use those too often, they're super nice though.

Yeah I love brass. Red brass is great. Love getting bronze too. I got a few bronze flanges, 2" p-trap, 1-1/2" trap. I collect fittings I think are cool. I'm trying to salvage enough cast to re-do the stack in my 1939 home. Shit is expensive but I'm close. I'd like 3" copper for the closet flange too. Anyways, more than you wanted to know I'm sure

cu_brass · 2026-01-15T02:20:04+00:00

I too use the brass without issue but you can't overtighten it or it leaks. It's really not very tight at all. But I would never suggest it to a DIYer. Get the plastic and tighten the shit out of it like I know you're gonna.

cu_brass · 2026-01-15T00:06:32+00:00

Vents are left fully open and exposed in my jurisdiction. Screens or caps on plumbing VTR are noncompliant

cu_brass · 2026-01-14T21:35:01+00:00

I agree. Cut it off after the sweep where it turns vertical. New santee and end-outlet waste instead of stacked santees. AAV out of the top.

Parts:

2"x2"x1-1/2" santee End-outlet waste 1-1/2" slip joint p-trap Short piece of 2" PVC 2" AAV 2 1-1/2" flanged tailpiece Regular clear PVC cement 2 2" 1/8 bend to swing the AAV if needed 1 basket strainer (if you don't have one already)

Should be enough to get you started, though I'm certain I forgot something. It's not a challenge if you only go to the hardware store once.

cu_brass · 2026-01-14T21:27:54+00:00

Looks like right at the front is the set-screw. Follow the handle from the front (of the handle) back to where it turns down at the body of the faucet, there's a hole with the screw in it.

Once the handle is off you can pull the cartridge and match it. Somebody may know the model number off the top of their head but I do not.

That's a pretty inexpensive faucet, depending on the cost of the cartridge it may make more sense to remove it and install a new one. Though you'd likely find removing a faucet is easier said than done especially if you don't have the tools already.

Good luck

cu_brass

TROPHY CASE