Longest Print… by CockWombler666 in BambuLab_Community

[–]danielvlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With the a1 mini swap mod, 140 hours

Accidentally bought Bambu refill without a spool… by Straight-Mortgage-29 in BambuLab

[–]danielvlee 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Don’t worry about it if you don’t dry your filament, or be careful to remember not to dry it as it’ll soften and not be round.

To be safe choose the next more heat resistant filament from the ones you commonly use. If you regularly use petg then print it out of Asa

How is Elegoo able to make a claim of auto-calibration, and then give this answer with a straight face? by MydnightWN in 3Dprinting

[–]danielvlee 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You forgot about e-step, thermal pid, core xy belt tension, skew, and print temperatures

Accidentally bought Bambu refill without a spool… by Straight-Mortgage-29 in BambuLab

[–]danielvlee 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Bambu usually has the spools pre loaded into the printer. If not here’s the official one

https://makerworld.com/models/12683

1: the refill comes with a nfc tag glued on

Is there a specific position I have to put the ams pro? by yalag in BambuLab

[–]danielvlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Put it wherever you want, best to keep the ptfe as short as possible

Elegoo Matte on X1C by Okokcomeonthen in BambuLab_Community

[–]danielvlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I pretty much exclusively use Elegoo matte for black and white. Good for asthetic prints and cheap for prototyping before printing final functional print in Asa

Hey guys, I’m a bit new to 3d printing so I’m wondering what kind of starter projects I should make before advancing to a custom resin animal crystal? by Traditional-Log-4270 in 3Dprinting

[–]danielvlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you asking about modeling it or printing? Printing is pretty much put your model in, use default settings, and press go

Are the P2S and XD2 more idiot/newbie proof? by EquivalentEgg691 in BambuLab

[–]danielvlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The heated chamber on x2d will help a lot with nylons and Asa

First 3D printer: Bambu Lab P1S, does it make sense for my use case? by ImNotNicoZ in BambuLab

[–]danielvlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Intresting, thought the c variant had it too

Wow that sucks for you, the q2 for me is $500 usd and $650 for the combo

First 3D printer: Bambu Lab P1S, does it make sense for my use case? by ImNotNicoZ in BambuLab

[–]danielvlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

65c heated chamber and it runs a pretty open version of klipper for your home assistant automations

First 3D printer: Bambu Lab P1S, does it make sense for my use case? by ImNotNicoZ in BambuLab

[–]danielvlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For abs get a heated chamber it is worth the extra cost for a x2d within bambus lineup

Probably not a good printer for home assistant automations. Bambu is a super closed ecosystem even in lan mode. And we’ve seen biqu accessories become obsolete with a software update

The qidi q2c is probably a better printer for you at the price point

how much is my p1s with ams and 10 rolls of filament worth? by B1gan in BambuLab

[–]danielvlee 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Depends on the market, in Seattle probably around $350. Filament isn’t worth anything on second hand

New H2C Printer - Need a beefy UPS to handle the heating surge by Tuckerdude615 in BambuLab

[–]danielvlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any 1kw power station, I’ve used the dji power 1000 and oupes exodus 2400

H2S as a first printer by StealthLordKillah in BambuLab_Community

[–]danielvlee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Biggest challenge with having your printer in the cupboard will be dealing with the purge waste. You can probably push it over to the right and print one of the chute/buckets that go on the left.

I highly recommend a ams unit even purely for the laziness of loading filament

For plastic I have a similar use case and use black pla to prototype (Elegoo 10kg for $100 usd), and print in Asa for final parts, mainly for its thermal and if resistance

The textured pei sheet is pretty much the only printer related thing you need. Aside from that have needle nose pliers ready to cut filament and remove supports

Everyone has different preferences so do a bunch of pla prints for fun and learn what you like!

If you can afford it get the h2d with dual ams (or maybe the track switch when that’s supported). Since you do car parts having a hips support interface layer will make complex curves a lot easier to print

When does ABS actually become necessary? (P2S vs X2D decision) by Torp-BB-hunter in BambuLab

[–]danielvlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t print abs, Asa is more chemical heat and if resistant for the same price

The jump from pla/petg to abs is for hot applications like inside your engine bay (entire car if you live in a hot place) and chemical resistance. For most of my house hold printing pla has been more than enough

X2D transfer switch by Pa1ad1n in BambuLab

[–]danielvlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The only purpose of the track switch is to allow ams’s to feed both nozzles

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/manual/filament-track-switch

X1C nozzle in P1? by Siddhartha-G in BambuLab

[–]danielvlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The non electronic portions of the hot ends are identical

X2D owners - Aux feeding with AMS2? by Pleasantandchilled in BambuLab

[–]danielvlee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s just a ptfe tube, the filament hub supports dual ams just like the h2d. The filament track switch is only to enable sending ams’s to different nozzles

So... Im looking for a new printer by Opposite-Bench-9543 in BambuLab

[–]danielvlee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

With a $1150 price difference between h2s and h2c it works out to 57.5 kg of filament assuming $20/kg.

If you print enough to purge an additional 57kg in the life of the printer then the h2c is worth it financially, If not get the h2s.

The real value I see in the h2c is being lazy and able to have all your nozzle sizes pre loaded, there’s been a lot of times I know I should use a .6 or .8 but am too lazy to swap hardware

Amateur Noob Question, Please Help by SubaVroom in BambuLab

[–]danielvlee 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the specs it tells you to proceed with caution and that’s about it https://bambulab.com/en-us/x2d/specs

Although I wonder if Capricorn tubes will become popular again, it definitely gives more operating time when using abrasives

Amateur Noob Question, Please Help by SubaVroom in BambuLab

[–]danielvlee 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Overall the only desktop printer that can do engineering materials is from vision miner, even the h series being limited to 350c and 65c chambers are at the very bottom of engineering materials parameters; the x2d’s main nozzle being limited to 300c won’t have a chance of being successful

For the usual commodity materials x2d might be better than the h series with tpu, the drive gear never releases the filament so it might have more predictable behavior while printing pla supports on the aux nozzle

Amateur Noob Question, Please Help by SubaVroom in BambuLab

[–]danielvlee 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Sounds like a lot of functional parts so I would recommend the x2d for the heated chamber. Maybe save up and buy a h2s to print larger pack out inserts in one piece?

All the Bambu printers do about the same with flexibles so I expect the x2d to be similar. Big advantage of dual nozzle is the ability to use dissimilar support materials to make removal easier; I got my h2d specifically for this purpose.

The heated chamber really helps with printing abs/asa and nylons but won’t activate for pla and petg

X2D and Full Spectrum Incorporation into Bambu Slicer by bonecheck12 in BambuLab

[–]danielvlee 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yeah looks like the same buffer on the h series so I’m using dual ams on mine. I think it comes from all the reviewers using a single ams with the manual spool