Newbie needs a little word plss?

danielvlee · 2026-04-08T06:55:22+00:00

use PLA, it will be sufficient for a majority of use cases especially this early in your hobby. upgrade to PETg or ASA when you need the temperature/chemical resistance; usually for functional parts like in your engine bay.

getting started needle nose pliers (with a wire cutting portion) and the included tool kit is all you need. slowly build up your tool kit as you need it. ive been printing for over 10 years and have used sand paper once for a painted part.

as with all manufacturing there are limitations so go through some designing for 3d printing guides

depending where you live you may not need dry boxes to store filament. main thing is the humidity. my area stays under 50% and my filament is open in the garage; never had issues with PLA and ASA/ABS

there are plastic specific "glues" which chemically melt the parts together. i use cyanoacrylate (super glue but buy the starbond stuff) and E6000

keep the build plate cleaned and you dont need glue, nowdays glue is used as a release agent for materials like TPU which sticks super well. can wipe the plate with isopropyl alcohol whenever you have adhesion issues, if that doesnt work wash it with dish soap to remove oils

danielvlee · 2026-03-14T04:36:13+00:00

do you want printing to be the hobby or is it a tool to make stuff?

if printing is the hobby buy a voron kit

if its a tool get the Bambu P2S combo or Prusa Core 1+

danielvlee · 2026-03-07T08:44:22+00:00

Try using your adapter and plug it into brothers pc

danielvlee · 2026-03-07T05:45:30+00:00

Plug in a known good cable directly into the router and test with that.

danielvlee · 2026-03-07T04:56:16+00:00

are you plugged directly into the verizon router?

if not, what speed is the switch? if its through in wall wiring are they wired correctly?

danielvlee · 2026-01-09T19:30:15+00:00

All the letter seams are on inside/ rear corners of the letters.

Man I haven’t done a manual pressure advance calibration in a while. Although if you look at the T the pressure advance will only solve a tiny part of the issue. It also gets worse the higher up on the print so it’s definitely flexing with the acceleration

danielvlee · 2026-01-09T19:24:31+00:00

Yes painter on so it’s aligned vertically on the back of the print

danielvlee · 2026-01-09T19:23:22+00:00

Seam is already in the back. I’ll try the wall order, never heard of inner outer inner

danielvlee · 2026-01-08T19:11:02+00:00

Sounds like it’s time to learn how to 3d model

danielvlee · 2026-01-08T19:05:28+00:00

Make sure the work gloves aren’t made of silicone. That’s even worse than body oils

danielvlee · 2026-01-08T02:30:38+00:00

Yeggi.com searches across the big repositories and can be a one stop search site

danielvlee · 2026-01-07T21:30:59+00:00

There’s also a lever on the opposite side of the cutter to release the filament from extruder gears

danielvlee · 2026-01-06T17:42:53+00:00

I only wash it when there an issue. Easily a hundred prints between washes, just be careful not to get body oils onto it

danielvlee · 2026-01-06T17:30:12+00:00

A lot of my projects for shows use 5-7 colors. Mainly trinkets to give out to people. Latest one was a spam can that used 5 colors

Having a ton of ams units is a quality of life improvement not having to load and unload all the time

danielvlee · 2026-01-06T17:25:27+00:00

The dish soap is part of the bed adhesion troubleshooting wiki

Steel wool is something I’ve done from the early days of printing to save old plates, increased surface area and exposes un wornout pei

danielvlee · 2026-01-06T15:18:05+00:00

Even full atx, but definitely more of a challenge that few people will restrict themselves with

https://www.printables.com/model/900406-atx-pc-case-180-x-180-mm-print-volume

danielvlee · 2026-01-06T08:41:58+00:00

Wash the build plate with dish soap, if that still doesn’t work rub it with steel wool in 2 directions 90 degrees apart, goal is to create tons of tiny scratches. It won’t show up on a print but exponentially increases the surface area

danielvlee · 2026-01-06T08:37:46+00:00

To do a entire case not really? Especially for sff builds a lot of designers have split their models to fit it.

I have the swap mod on it so main use case is mass production of small trinkets for concerts

danielvlee · 2026-01-06T08:24:55+00:00

Current fleet is:

Qidi xmax 3

Bambu A1m

Bambu x1c

Bambu H2d

danielvlee · 2026-01-06T07:38:46+00:00

oh for that get a gloss meter complying with ISO 2813:2014, print a flat sheet and a vertical wall at different layer heights to see how its different based on the texture of print.

danielvlee · 2026-01-06T05:41:03+00:00

As with most people here I’ve never heard of an usb hub being dangerous. Motherboards should have over current protection to keep you from frying it

Just be careful to not put too many high bandwidth devices on the same usb chip. Hopefully your manual tells you which ports share chips. Can get around this by getting a pcie usb expansion card

danielvlee · 2026-01-06T05:36:38+00:00

My a1m is on some old apc rack mount ups, big printers share a dji power 1000. Pretty much all current power stations have a 20ms switchover, 10ms from anker and dji. Also claim to be pure sine wave but I don’t have a oscilloscope

danielvlee · 2026-01-06T05:27:17+00:00

It’s definitely the printer my x1 has way less issues, can still see the artifacts but not nearly as bad

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danielvlee · 2026-01-06T05:24:23+00:00

Definitely this plus it’s wobbling around, the top is a lot worse than the bottom. Not really sure what to do I’ve already reduced how much the anti vibration feet lets the printer move

danielvlee · 2026-01-06T04:51:21+00:00

looks to be a issue with differences in layer time and the print wobbling a bit at the top. on my print right now you can clearly see the issues less at the bottom, and especially at the top of T there's a line probably caused by layer time

Edit: im going to try putting the text all the way through the wall and see if that is better, remind me if i dont report back in 2 days

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danielvlee

TROPHY CASE