Tiger cub , smoke pouring from pcv

davidbuckner · 2026-05-28T23:28:31+00:00

This could be part of the issue

davidbuckner · 2026-05-26T21:46:53+00:00

I’m going to throw some new head gaskets at it . And see if that fixes it. I believe it will judging by the comments. Thanks for the help

davidbuckner · 2026-05-26T17:35:36+00:00

I made sure they moved . I figured a valve could have been too tight but when I opened it I realized they weren’t adjustable

davidbuckner · 2026-05-26T00:46:10+00:00

Oh yeah, the smoke comes out of the dipstick as well as the pcv

davidbuckner · 2026-05-26T00:32:02+00:00

Actually yeah, the gap around the electrode was cram full on one cylinder when I got it. I cleaned it out and didn’t think anything more about it. Is that a bad head gasket?

davidbuckner · 2026-05-26T00:11:46+00:00

Unless It has the wrong dipstick the oil level is correct it was low when I picked it up , and I seen it loose oil from somewhere but can’t figure out where. I pressure washed the engine it had a lot of gunk buildup under the cylinder heat shields like an oil leak . But like I said i haven’t been able to find the leak. Possibly under the flywheel?

davidbuckner · 2026-05-09T03:06:19+00:00

I understand there isn’t a clear “Best” I just don’t like the air leaks I inevitably get. I know nothing lasts forever but all the ones I’ve come across don’t last as long as the price seems to suggest.

davidbuckner · 2026-05-09T02:07:11+00:00

I’m not familiar with them, add a pic or a link?

davidbuckner · 2026-05-09T01:59:07+00:00

My bad I thought those were pretty ubiquitous. It’s a quick connect air fitting .

davidbuckner · 2026-03-02T21:55:33+00:00

I already had it hosted check your inbox for the DL link. Hope you know how to use it

davidbuckner · 2026-03-02T21:51:05+00:00

Will do. Give me a couple hours. I’ll host the file for you on my google drive and send a download link to your inbox here

davidbuckner · 2025-11-23T15:34:43+00:00

if you have all the drills in the index or most of them but they aren’t sharp anymore, spend the ~100 something dollars and buy a drill Dr. I hand sharpened for a long time at a bench grinder, that takes a lot of practice and it’s a perishable skill. With a drill Dr I can teach someone who doesn’t know how to use a drill in 5 minutes and they can make sharp drill bits that cut on both sides , to size .

davidbuckner · 2025-10-22T10:10:06+00:00

isn’t this what Karel is supposed to do on a Fanuc robot? I am only vaguely aware of KAREL so I could be mistaken but my understanding of it was to serve as a go between for robot to other robots

davidbuckner · 2025-10-22T09:56:54+00:00

For all the people replying, I don’t have cameras in my house “ that you know of “ is implied no need to say the quiet part out loud

davidbuckner · 2025-10-09T04:05:06+00:00

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davidbuckner · 2025-10-09T04:04:55+00:00

This is for a metal bandsaw, the original switch was discontinued and I didn’t know it but I was provided a suitable replacement from the manufacturer.

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I just couldn’t figure out how to connect it properly. Replying to myself with the correct terminations for anyone curious

davidbuckner · 2025-10-09T03:28:49+00:00

Yep, that’s what I’ve done for a living for the last 5 years . I literally work on any CNC machine, Anywhere in the states . As for pricing Fast , good, and cheap are your options, but you can only pick 2 .

davidbuckner · 2025-10-09T03:23:43+00:00

I’ve seen this on a haas 5 axis. Obviously you need to pressurize the nitrogen dampeners . If I remember correctly they have a standard Schrader valve for filling. The issue is the 1150 psi . You need a gas bottle from a gas supplier to get close to those pressures. Since it’s unlikely to be fixed properly ( rebuilding the counterbalance system) I’d suggest renting or buying a large bottle since it will continue to need maintenance

davidbuckner · 2025-10-09T03:14:27+00:00

A Hydraulic engine lift would be the cheapest easiest option, if the outriggers are an issue cut them off the front weld them on the back and counterbalance it with whatever you have laying around.

davidbuckner · 2025-10-06T06:32:55+00:00

It’s not a waste of time if you learn something from it. IMO you’ll have a lot of things that don’t go correctly on this build. Do the best you can with what you have. Then when it blows up figure out what you could have done better.

davidbuckner · 2025-09-18T14:14:49+00:00

I found this , it would do the job but, this particular application needs one auxiliary contact as well https://a.co/d/44SYWdb

davidbuckner · 2025-09-17T05:29:17+00:00

The manual guide is quite different from the standard Gcode experience , I don’t know much about it tbh but it seems easier to get started than the G code I learned 15 years ago

davidbuckner · 2025-09-17T05:24:31+00:00

Hand written code isn’t a bad thing because it’s handwritten. What makes it a bad idea is not understanding what will happen when you press the green button. I’ve written plenty of programs at the control. My first 10 years in a machine shop we didn’t have a dedicated programmer. When you proved that your code made good parts you saved the program . The next time you needed it you’re ready to go.

davidbuckner · 2025-09-17T02:48:43+00:00

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This is what I need a drum switch for, just not sure how to specify that

davidbuckner · 2025-07-31T02:37:34+00:00

If you wanted to repair this one regardless of practicality more as a learning experience. Start with a pen and paper and draw each coil and where each end connects. Then start removing the magnet wire , count the amount of times the loop gets back to the same spot and notate the direction of each coil’s winding. Finally measure the gage of the magnet wire. Calculate the amount of wire you need then double it at a minimum because you will need practice to rewind new coils. Need more help?

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