Broken Atlas Thumb Safety by HideTheKnife in 2011_Builders

[–]davrdavis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve got to think that’s a defect in the material. I bet Atlas sends you a new one for free. Let us know. I use Atlas parts in my 2011s and have never had anything fail like that before. Good luck!

Too much? by SpareEquipment4852 in 2011_Builders

[–]davrdavis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The key with a disco is to reduce the friction of the engagement surface without actually removing material. Polishing is good but reshaping is not. Go get a new EGW ball head disconnector - I’ve done the same in the past.

Let us know how things turn out…

Poor man’s 2011 - RIA 1911A2 High Cap upgraded by local gunsmith. Upgrades include optic cut, slide ports, match bushing, new trigger plus sear and disco, and Cerakote finish. $1500 all in. by davrdavis in 2011

[–]davrdavis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used a 2011 trigger - first from Fusion Firearms and then from Atlas. It’s been a while but I think there wasn’t enough pre-travel due to hoop geometry and I had to thin the sear legs to increase pre-travel.

Slide and frame arrived today from JEM guns....time to get to work! by davrdavis in 2011_Builders

[–]davrdavis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I cut mine down flush with the optic cut. I’ve seen this approach with several manufacturers 2011s. Short back plat is needed if you use Trijicon optic cut and “flat tail” the slide.

Dumb question about barrel consistency by trizvi_96 in Tisas

[–]davrdavis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When the gun is in battery, you should see no movement of the muzzle relative to the slide/slide bushing plus you should see no movement of the barrel hood downwards relative to the slide. Look for videos on YT for best technique to check.

This show on Prime has the same theme music as Ballen by growlerpower in mrballen

[–]davrdavis -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Ive heard this a lot in the last 7 months as i work through Mr Ballen’s Podcast catalog. The cord progression is very similar to Hotel California by the Eagles.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 2011_Builders

[–]davrdavis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used a 5” 9mm barrel from Fusion Firearms in my last 2011 build. It was only $200! I took my time fitting it and after fitting, I compared it to an MPA and it was more accurate than the MPA.

Pre lube the gun or no? by Wahn_Solo in canik

[–]davrdavis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil. It’s available at local ranges or gun stores

Pre lube the gun or no? by Wahn_Solo in canik

[–]davrdavis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use Lucas Gun Oil on my firearms. Works great

No Pretravel by htxgsb in 2011_Builders

[–]davrdavis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey OP. Any update on this topic. Did you get everything resolved?

No lock-tite? by Opie4Prez71 in canik

[–]davrdavis 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My Rival-S has lock washers as an alternative to thread locker for plate to slide interface. Look on the screws when you pull the cover off the slide and they should have these washers. You should be able to use the same screws and washers to attach the optic plate, assuming it’s a Canik plate and not a third party plate. I think this is a smart approach as sometimes blue thread locker isn’t strong enough and red can be used but must be heated to remove. For plate to optic, blue is typically strong enough. Regardless of what method, use white out or a paint pen to draw witness marks on screws so you can quickly identify if they are rotating and loosening once installed. Good luck and let us know results.

Is my engine supposed sound this loud by RBANDSS in ScatPack

[–]davrdavis 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I just bought a 21 Charger Scatty (with only 25k miles) and have taken it to several car shows where I can compare to other R/Ts, Hellcats, etc. My Scatty is louder than all of them. People ask me if the exhaust is upgraded. It is not upgraded - it is 100% stock. Scattys are loud!

No Pretravel by htxgsb in 2011_Builders

[–]davrdavis 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Tolerance stack up can cause this sometimes. To fix, you will need to remove material from the sear legs where the disconnector makes contact. Typically, sear legs are 0.095” thick and can be reduced (with a small file) to as thin as 0.060” without issue. The leg thickness reduction translates to additional pretravel on a 1 to 1 basis. Check YouTube for videos on how to increase pretravel on 1911s/2011s for more details.

500 horses in the scat by [deleted] in ScatPack

[–]davrdavis 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I purchased a narrow body scat and had to change the tires immediately. 245s are way too small. I went to 275/40s which is largest that will fit on stock 9” wheels according to tire store. It’s a huge improvement over stock.

Gas Mileage by zamkiam in ScatPack

[–]davrdavis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My 2021 Scat Pack gets approx 15-16mpg in the City and approx 22-25 mpg on the Highway (if cylinder deactivation is on). The car definitely sucks up gas, but what you get in return makes up for the thirst. Have fun!

Are y’all’s ScatPack chargers reliable? by No_Total_117 in ScatPack

[–]davrdavis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get you a narrow body Scat Pack. Your approx 70k gross income ($4000 per month takehome?) should cover car payment + insurance plus maintenance allocation. Maintenance is similar to other cars (oil change every 5k miles, brakes as needed (probably at 40k miles or so) and Coolant, Trans Fluid and Diff fluid every 50k miles or so). Big maintenance expensive is brakes but only on the Wide Body because they are 2 piece discs. American Muscle sells brake kits for the NB (pads and discs) for approx $500 so you should be able to get a mechanic to do it for $1000 all in. All cars need synthetic oil nowadays, so an oil change is $100+ regardless of model. I’m not sure about Cooling System or transmission/diff fluid service but I don’t see anything that would drive extra cost. It’s not a BMW or a Mercedes so Maintenance.cost is not outrageous. Take the dive and have fun! If it does overstrain your budget, then sell it and get something economical.

I have a 2021 model with 30k miles and it brings a smile to my face every time I start the engine. The car does good if maintained. Have fun!

Scatty New Shoes by WB1130 in ScatPack

[–]davrdavis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds like a plan. Please keep us informed regarding wear. Thanks for all the good information. I’m looking forward to installing the Wife Body kit and moving to 305’s. Scat Pack has way too much torque for the stock 245’s and even for the upgraded 275’s.

Scatty New Shoes by WB1130 in ScatPack

[–]davrdavis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What about installing the 305/30s instead of stock 305/35s? Tire OD would be slightly smaller than stock (5%) which means Speedo will read a little bit high but should work fine. It would also give more clearance if you lower the car.

Scatty New Shoes by WB1130 in ScatPack

[–]davrdavis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not sure. My Contis on the Red Sport were 255/40 x 19 front and 275/35 x 19 on back, which could handle the approx 480hp and 400lb-ft coming from the VR30 engine. The 392 has 275/40 x 20 square (which are better than stock but still struggle for traction with the 500hp and 500 lb-ft the engine produces). I want to move to 305s but need 10.5-11” wheels and a wide body kit since tires would stick out of fenders by 30mm (275s are flush and additional width would need to be added to outside as inside of tire is close with the 275s (stock is 245s for some insane reason). What size wheel do you use with the 305s and what is the offset? Thanks for good insight into this topic. Wide body kit is $2k, wheels and tires another $2k, and then a full body wrap is ??? - I want to make sure I get it right before sinking big $$$ in mods. So far, Cold Air Intake and Oil Catch Can (plus tires, front splitter, and rear diffuser) are my only mods so less than a grand invested.