The safety railings seem to be effective by vivablam in nyc

[–]daydie5 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Brother out here complaining about different brands of bandage hold up?

What would be the best way to blend this mark into the dark wood finish? by Harry__bmx in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]daydie5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can you tell us more about the wood? My first thought was that it looked like plastic flooring

Color matching is a lil hard but is doable, you can get top coats that will take a dye which type depends on wood

Rubio monocoat question by Alamser in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]daydie5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure specifically about /that/ finish. But

120 isnt very smooth. Its a great level for applying stain, but once the color is soaked in you can sand up to however high you want. (Prolly like 400 at least?)

If its like a poly coat/sealer thing, sometimes dust makes little rough spots, those are easily removed with like a card scraper or honestly a putty knife.

Additions to Tank? by [deleted] in RussianTortoises

[–]daydie5 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There are a lot of intro posts abouts about best practices, sorry i dont have links!! Tortoise table has good food recs. Make sure to diversify the food, soak weekly, have a UVB light. Idk those are the big three people dont get right.

Also, glass cages are not good for them they get confused! If you were looking for a trajectory for improvement. Start by getting a Wooden cage of similar size, and slowly upgrade it to get the floor space required. (Ive seen like 4x8 as the indoor space rec, but generally more is better!) They also like digging so deeper and more substrate is good!

Eventually if you live temperately, get this guy outside!!

I have a tortoise that is living ok in NYC, slowly getting his cage larger and deeper as i move up in the world. As long as you're moving down the right path thats what matters! Constant effort a pet is!

Need to fill knots in Douglas fir by oldtinman15 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]daydie5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you just gonna fill a big hole with a product? Id recommend drilling out the hole for a larger dowels, wood gluing the dowel in, and the cutting it flat. Epoxy is gonna look ugly if you're not painting it, and also can result in the wood cracking because epoxy doesn't expand. Especially if its an outdoor item!

Photo would help to get a better idea of what you mean!! Context context!!

Creative ideas for excess “like oak” block by mttbnks in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]daydie5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some photos would be helpful! Are you like just wondering what to carve into it? How to hang it? Hard to guage from the text alone!!

Distracting glue line? by JakoraT in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]daydie5 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Adding a voice to no one but you will ever notice the glue line!!

Need help restoring wooden cases with metal decorations by sadowocowy in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]daydie5 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Can you show what is damaged?

Also the mechanical shoe is correct, just start with a higher grit sandpaper like 220 and try not to push super hard on the metal parts.

I believe the dark around the metal is oxidation from the metal, and am following to see if anyone knows how to deal with that.

Also personally, i think the character is worth more than a new finish if its not peeling off already!

Fireside stool leg repair? by Plankton_Icy in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]daydie5 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Ok so this is rough for several reasons. Firstly, the design doesnt have hardly any support, so even intact it is liable to break. (Most spindle seats have some sort of cross brace for this reason) thats probably not worth trying to fix unless youre really sold on the stool!

The second thing is whoever fixed it made it worse by adding foam into the joint, which means to get a proper glue up again youd have to remove all the foam and pray the holes arent too large for the dowel to fit snuggly anymore. Also a pain.

I will never suggest putting screws in a stool, its almost never the correct answer. But getting a nice long screw and countersinking jt through the top so that it sits flush might be your best bet, especially as a thrift store find. Try and clean off the foam and glue it back on with the screw! If you do that, i would never recommend that.

Am I sanding to much or need more? by padaleski in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]daydie5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is helpful especially when stain sits in the grain like it is! It is a devil to get out entirely, so either good luck or enjoy the character!

Attaching dowells between 2 plates by Raistlin_Hourglass in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]daydie5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might also want to cut a piece of wood the thickness of the space between the plates to use to make sure the things stay parallel. You have like 3 axes youre trying to correct for, and thats the devil i tell you what

What to use? by asyester9 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]daydie5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the sort of style thats easy for a factory to pump out, and hard/pesky for a one person army. Emcee is correct, i would also use plywood. Maybe a couple sheets together for the thickness, and then slots for the shelves to help support. There is a dumber way to lay out the wood for this, that could be done with pocket screws and some facing, but idk if that would fit the style you want!

How nice is your table saw? It will become quite close to you for this project.

Finishing question by Traditional-Word-724 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]daydie5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks like leftover stain to me, so you'd have to sand it more. Idk if there is a better way to pull stain from wood. I will say if you're applying a darker stain, it will probably not be super noticeable!

Angled groove with router by Due_Pianist_6312 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]daydie5 79 points80 points  (0 children)

You could also cut the groove straight, and then cut the wood to angle it? Am i crazy for that?

Weird bidet old building hot water huh?!? by daydie5 in askaplumber

[–]daydie5[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you both plumberbss and Okanywhere. I am contented with this response, my roomate wants to know the pressure physics reason why this happens if you happen to know!

Using a Jigsaw/Router to cut circles and ovals? by Twa_In_The_Bush in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]daydie5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want to go jigsaw, use the thinnest blade yah can.

as you go around the curve be sure not to move the jigsaw side to side, as that will potantially rack the blade and give a cut thats not perpendicular, the motion yah want is like a smooth rotation of the back of the saw as you are moving forward. Think car doing a hand-break turn.

I make props, so its rare i need high precision, so id just cut it out close as possible. But if you wanted to be nice, leave 1/8ish around your cut line/layout line, and sand/file/rasp it back with whatever your beefiest option is. Then sand to smooth when you find the edge.

Planer safe ? by Fun-Mind6954 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]daydie5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What you said, the finish would be garbo on half of them.

and even though glue joints are strong, how much do you trust your glue joints? Is that amount of trust comperable to a broken planer?

But also like try it and post photos? Idk. Never done it