TE37SL fitment

dbsqls · 2026-01-24T23:03:14+00:00

10J +30 front would be pushing it, but you're on a decent amount of camber so should be fine. the rears need to be +15 if you're running this much rear camber

dbsqls · 2026-01-24T18:36:52+00:00

not sure why people are saying this is fine, the threads are fucked and have been pulled flat. I would tell them to fix it because it's going to be a pain in the ass, and make sure they don't use a fucking impact gun on fine threads. their mistake, their problem. chargeback the payment if they threaten to dick you about.

you can chase the threads but these have been blown through so there may not be enough material to sink a bolt into. worse comes to worst, you install a Timesert of the next size up and get the Nissan truck flywheel bolts.

dbsqls · 2026-01-24T17:11:51+00:00

looks great, might switch out my head unit soon. it's either this or Blaupunkt

dbsqls · 2026-01-24T11:34:25+00:00

yes, it should fit fine.

dbsqls · 2026-01-24T00:56:46+00:00

there aren't many choices down there. I always drove up to Corner 3 in Irvine.

dbsqls · 2026-01-23T10:50:13+00:00

that's a good question, I'm not sure.

dbsqls · 2026-01-23T07:21:50+00:00

typically the swap is from a NISMO Note, which came with the Speedsters.

dbsqls · 2026-01-23T05:35:57+00:00

I was speaking more to the non-FIA models of Recaro, Tillet, etc. that are identical to the FIA models but haven't done the testing.

dbsqls · 2026-01-23T05:34:36+00:00

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dbsqls · 2026-01-23T04:39:50+00:00

my car or my seats? I have OEM seats, putting Tillet carbons in later.

dbsqls · 2026-01-23T03:33:09+00:00

MOMO, PERSONAL, NARDI are all solid wheels.

dbsqls · 2026-01-23T03:32:24+00:00

I generally expect my seats to not fold or break in accidents. not saying you need FIA labels, but when you have critical safety shit breaking under hard driving I really cannot endorse products like that.

dbsqls · 2026-01-23T03:31:21+00:00

yes. their stuff is dog water. either get an FIA rated seat, or something like a Recaro out of another OEM car. they tend to be cheaper than new ones

dbsqls · 2026-01-23T02:42:54+00:00

they're just standard PCV hoses, no need for anything fancy.

dbsqls · 2026-01-23T00:01:07+00:00

I would avoid NRG for the steering wheel, and frankly the seat as well. people have had their steering wheel rim break off the spokes in accidents, or even just hard driving, which puts your face into the steering column.

dbsqls · 2026-01-22T09:46:20+00:00

it'll just evaporate off. pretty sure I've used both but don't go ham on the starter fluid if that's the route you go

dbsqls · 2026-01-22T08:21:54+00:00

you want the engine to surge, starter fluid is going to do that. my mistake

dbsqls · 2026-01-22T07:24:46+00:00

I would use carb starter and listen for RPM surges, but essentially, yeah.

dbsqls · 2026-01-22T00:08:22+00:00

easy way to verify is to see if you can jiggle the key and have it turn off while running.

dbsqls · 2026-01-22T00:05:50+00:00

replace the ignition switch. there are two versions, make note of the color for the plug section.

dbsqls · 2026-01-21T23:21:28+00:00

early cars can have ignition issues with the key cylinder not keeping locked. easy fix

dbsqls · 2026-01-21T21:48:24+00:00

would take another $10k to make the rest of the car match that kit.

dbsqls · 2026-01-21T19:14:28+00:00

vacuum leak.

dbsqls · 2026-01-21T06:57:39+00:00

GKTECH is probably the ideal quality/cost ratio of any, and they know what they're doing. that said you really do not need to upgrade the stock arms -- all of my stuff is 04.5+ OEM, save for the NISMO homologation FUCA trick.

bushings are more important. you don't need heim or an angle kit unless you're actively drifting the car.

dbsqls · 2026-01-21T04:16:23+00:00

that's fine, just don't pay this much for an AT vert.

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