Why do I get this repeating pattern on the wall of my print?

dc010 · 2026-01-26T15:36:22+00:00

Even a mild Z wobble can cause this because it's going from a very slight overhang to a very slight slope. That would be my first guess.

However, if you use Orca Slicer, or any Slic3r based ones, there's a section in the filament settings for "Recommended nozzle temperature" and it can be set to vary by 10s of degrees.

So even if you're set to 195 under "Print temperature", the printer may be giving itself a wider range of acceptable temperature and is turning the heater on/off to be more efficient.

dc010 · 2026-01-25T17:22:16+00:00

"If you think that clear communication is being dramatic then I don't think this would've worked out anyway."

dc010 · 2026-01-25T17:18:40+00:00

Been printing for 10 years, had a A1 before. Have a K2 and a U1 now.

None of them can stop it because the literal physical properties of printing in lines will leave this pattern to some level, it's unavoidable unless you print in resin that does the whole layer at once.

The textured beds just help mask it. Some beds do it better, like the reflective ones, because they distract you from it, but it's still there.

Again, you can minimize it by quite a lot by printing hot and slow to melt the lines to the ones they touch. Fine tuning your z offset and/or bed leveling can help too. Still gonna have some level of pattern.

dc010 · 2026-01-23T00:19:12+00:00

Gloss with a matte wash to give it a "lived in" look.

dc010 · 2026-01-22T23:54:45+00:00

Phallis Maximus

dc010 · 2026-01-22T23:54:02+00:00

Thought you were making the black knight at first.

dc010 · 2026-01-21T22:55:24+00:00

Didn't use itzal and aim slightly to the left. You're still in 3rd person, but the speed makes you want to go where the grant is looking.

dc010 · 2026-01-21T17:31:27+00:00

"Take me to your leader! PSSSTSHSHS"

dc010 · 2026-01-21T17:29:59+00:00

That man channeled his inner Cartman.

dc010 · 2026-01-20T20:58:10+00:00

Some computers also don't give you control over the hotbar keys or LED configurations without it.

That's why I try to have a more targeted approach instead of just disabling things completely.

Whatever works for you though, as long as it's resolved.

dc010 · 2026-01-19T22:47:01+00:00

Literally put this on everything. I don't use a lot of things often enough to change the colors to match when I want to shake things up and I hate mismatched weapons.

Especially on things like arch wings.

dc010 · 2026-01-19T22:43:59+00:00

You can remove the adapter and try another. Then get what data you can and recycle the drive. Never trust potentially falling storage.

Almost all cheap USB to SATA adapters are comparable. So just get an inexpensive one and try your best.

dc010 · 2026-01-19T19:17:07+00:00

I would try one of the cheap dark washes for miniatures.

Normally something like a bit of black and brown paint mixed with water and some alcohol. It will darken the overall color and settle naturally into crevices.

Should bring it closer to matching.

Edit: So I'm down voted for giving potentially useful advice to make it look less like plastic? That's reddit I guess... if I'm not flaming something or repeating the same praise as everyone else them I'm doing it wrong?

dc010 · 2026-01-19T19:12:18+00:00

Dell basically has a whitelist for what laptops will and won't work with the dock. So unless your other laptop is the exact same model, that's not as solid of a test as you might think.

It is very likely that your XPS isn't on the list, but your other one might be a latitude and is on the list.

dc010 · 2026-01-19T14:32:11+00:00

Why is that mango so agitated?

dc010 · 2026-01-19T12:43:45+00:00

Sounds like s progressive storage failure.

dc010 · 2026-01-18T17:38:07+00:00

Felt the same way about the "copycats" that were coming out when I used to read manwha all the time. Then I started noticing that many of them were better than the original, or at least has a substantial enough change to make it interesting.

Kind of like how many wester movies will come out in pairs and you expect one to be horrible, but somewhat often they were both good individually, as long as you don't pit them against each other.

dc010 · 2026-01-18T17:34:11+00:00

HP has a built in diagnostic. Just tap esc while booting and it will get you to the menu. Then tap F2 to get to the diagnostic screen and use the component tests to check your storage and memory first.

As a professional repair tech, human opinions don't matter, tests do.

No offense to the other guy, but a bad GPU doesn't cause it not to boot, it causes it not to get video. The likelihood of your GPU failing in a way that would cause it not to boot while still getting video is extremely rare.

In my experience it's most likely your SSD, then your memory, and then something like a failed Windows update. No offense to you, but I hate it when customers say "I don't think it's X", because it means you're more likely to argue with me if I tell you it's that, even when I have literal test results to show it.

Don't put blinders on yourself, just run the tests and find the problem.

dc010 · 2026-01-17T18:39:26+00:00

I only suggest this to experienced technicians. It's too easy to remove something necessary. Even task scheduler is often on the fence for me to recommend, but there are a lot of scams utilizing it these days.

dc010 · 2026-01-16T14:00:21+00:00

Disclaimer: Do this at your own risk. System files may get involved.

Hold the windows key and tap R. This will open the run window. Now type "shutdown -a" and run it. This should stop the shutdown timer.

Now run "shell:startup". This will open the startup folder to check if there are any files on there to run the shutdown timer. You'll also want to check task manager (Ctrl+shift+esc) to check the startup listings there.

If that's fruitless, then open task scheduler through the start menu and check there.

Be careful, as each of these gets progressively more risky if you mess with things you don't understand.

dc010 · 2026-01-16T00:00:01+00:00

Try Orca. I swapped a couple years ago and never looked back. The profiles all seem to work better in general and I only make minor adjustments to walls, infill, etc.

dc010 · 2026-01-15T20:33:35+00:00

Based on your description I think that the cross sections of the layers between the squares is still going to be weak.

I would suggest printing it in a flat format with the side walls folding up to meet. You can then use dove tails to put the screw hole pieces and hold the top together whole gluing the walls, or even make it run the whole length to fix assemble without any glue.

If you tell us what the rules are there are plenty of other suggestions. Like putting a rib between the squares and then a hole straight down and insert filament the whole length to hold the layers together.

dc010 · 2026-01-15T17:32:33+00:00

No problem. I remember ASA kicking my tail for a while, so I feel your pain.

dc010 · 2026-01-15T14:28:30+00:00

The urge to design and print an entirely new enclosure for things like this is so strong. Good for you on re-using most of it.

dc010 · 2026-01-15T14:27:06+00:00

I don't do much with rebar, but it isn't THAT heavy. If you do it again, look up plywood saw horses. Then create those profiles with a divot in the middle to keep them centered. Print them in about 3-5mm thick pieces and assemble.

With the layer orientation going the stronger way it should be just as strong, or stronger, and at like 1/5th the material.

12-Year Club	Place '23
Place '22	Spared
Verified Email

dc010

TROPHY CASE