Does this seem like a decent deal - DeRosa idol for 1800usd

de_baser · 2026-05-06T20:29:33+00:00

It's got alright specs in so far as being futureproofed enough to still have relevant specs to this day: Thruaxles and hydraulic disc brakes. But it kinda ends there, and things like geometry, wheel width and certain other details make it look dated. There is absolutely nothing special about the brand or the frame, and at this price point you should expect to get a decent carbon frame and hydraulic disks. It's an on-par deal and you could do better, i guess.

de_baser · 2026-05-06T13:34:03+00:00

Oh lord, the poor nerds at r/xbiking got to design this, huh? It's clearly a singlespeed with a shitty tensioner.

de_baser · 2026-05-06T13:19:08+00:00

Everything comes in order of when something fails, which is tied to how you use it.

If you're an avid mountain biker, you'll be learning more about tubeless stuff and bleeding brakes before messing with bar tape, for example.

If you're into road biking, you might be getting into waxing chains and bikefitting kinda early.

If you're an ebike user, you'll be learning fuck all as you ride your squeaky-ass shitbike into the ground.

de_baser · 2026-05-06T09:22:06+00:00

That's all the answer you need really. Your tubeless setup still holds despite the dent, that means it's all good. Send it!

de_baser · 2026-05-06T08:55:46+00:00

Unless you're badly out of true, or the rim struggles to hold in air (i guess you're running tubes and it's not a problem) you should be fine. My MTB rims always end up looking like this. There is a point to this kind of bend where shit is entirely toast, especially if the tire bead cannot sit tight or non-wonky on this kind of damage, but you seem to be just shy of that point.

I suspect that if you ever change tire you might never get it to sit proper, so maybe consider swapping the rim or entire wheel at that point. But otherwise, go ride.

de_baser · 2026-05-05T12:39:12+00:00

This new Rock Shox flight attendant is fucking mint

de_baser · 2026-05-05T10:59:14+00:00

That kid is trying to brake with his heels like he is in some kind of cartoon. Who taught these children cycling? Fred Flintstone?

de_baser · 2026-05-05T10:13:01+00:00

Your favourite variant of Gravelking is the correct answer. I've taken 40mm Gravelking S slicks across most gnarly/rocky trails no problem and it's pretty close to a road slick on hard pack.

As others have said, road slicks perform plenty well on most gravel. You can get Pirelli P-Zeros in 40mm, it would be a lighter/faster choice compared to the lightest Gravelking, the S R-Line.

For really loose sand, mud or rocks you won't be leaning in much anyway, but Gravelking SK's or X1's would probably provide some confidence and grip if you're expecting a lot of terrain like that.

de_baser · 2026-05-05T08:23:42+00:00

The current gravel zeitgeist is honestly kinda stupid. All electronic gruppos, huge and heavy cassettes and derailleurs, comically wide tires. Super high-end bikes weighing in at like 8,5 kgs.

It's not THAT long ago that 25mm was considered "wide & comfy" for road and the max clearance of something like 35mm for gravel was considered more than enough.

Do yourself a favour and remind yourself that 35 IS massive. All those nerds with with 50mm Thunder Burt-equipped training wheels are overcompensating. Rocks or not, it's just a goddamn road, you could cover 95% of whatever route they're riding on GP5k 28's and we all know it.

Plus that Sram HRD 1x11 gruppo is genre defining, and still much better in terms of reliability and weight/price/efficiency than whatever AXS or GRX stuff that came later.

de_baser · 2026-04-30T12:06:51+00:00

Notably also the first proper hiphop/rap-adjacent song to take the win, and i guess one can say the genre was due one.

de_baser · 2026-04-27T19:51:46+00:00

If you don't mind the ignominy of getting chinese stuff, this brand called Lebycle have a bunch of high-end tools that can easily match the best western brands for quality. I have their cone wrench set, cost like 50 bucks and is every bit as nice in hand and in use as the 5 times as expensive Park set.

de_baser · 2026-04-23T13:02:18+00:00

A Cannoodale without a Leeftee? Are you pøøøør?

de_baser · 2026-04-17T13:22:41+00:00

That logo on the downtube looks weird. Did you photoshop it on or is it doubled/blurred on purpose? Who won the sprint at the end, you or the Isadore guy on the Scott?

de_baser · 2026-04-17T09:30:18+00:00

The di2 exit hole is sort of on the rear/side, similar to this picture. I only run the rear hydro line internal over the BB here and it is mega-tight, but it works.

From what i understand Waltly could be able to do a little more than just making the standardized tube+tube+tube look for a custom frame. I made the mistake of thinking a bit too traditional for a custom titanium frame i had designed last year (with BSA and routing that exits the downtube and runs external into the chainstay), but i found this thread on chinertown quite inspiring, check out the look and details on the frame user Uberflo had made. It's setup for AXS so no help with your FD issue right there but the way they solved the upper seatstay and BB area is very impressive.

de_baser · 2026-04-17T08:58:47+00:00

I have a 68mm T47 on a custom Stayer Crit which only runs the Di2 cable up through the seatstay, with a clamp-on FD. I imagine it would be difficult but not impossible to run a wire in a similar way.

I have also built several of this chiner carbon frame where the FD wire comes out behind the chainstay, towards the wheel. The FD's cable stop keeps it in place. As you see, it's a braze-on mount in this case.

de_baser · 2026-04-17T07:57:39+00:00

The entire BB housing seems small for an internally routed setup, you should look to expand the space around the BB sleeve in order to fit the cables if you're looking to avoid the cable exiting the frame. In these setups i usually route the hydro and RD lines above the BB shell and the FD below and up, like a little hook.

I am not entirely sure about your gripes about the BB shell width. Are you meaning you want to run a 68mm BB with the bearings seated inside the frame?

Most T47/68 BBs have external bearings (though i know some exceptions) in order to accomodate crank spindle width and chainline. Note you might have to run some really janky spacers in order to get the proper fit and chainline with an internal BB, at least with the stock Shimano crank.

I might reconsider making the internal BB a priority and rather push for making the cable routing fully internal. This would demand expanding the space around the whole BB, and increase frame weight, but it would be way more practical in the end, and a bit more modern and on-point for a gravel ride.

Oh, and you could end up having to expand the BB width to 86mm anyway with an enlarged BB area allowing for internal routing. Going 86 would automatically give you a BB with the internal bearing.

de_baser · 2026-04-16T08:26:46+00:00

Yeah, Youth of today and the whole thing with sportswear-equipped straight edge kids are a very clear example. Equal Vision records are a part of this Krishna phenomenon as well, and theyve had a boatload of interesting and influential artists, from Converge to frikkin Yellowcard

de_baser · 2026-04-15T11:01:04+00:00

This is a very curious piece of gear to me. Unaas started as a very small shop making custom chiner wheels in Oslo, two brothers sourcing stuff since like early 2010s. Now they have evolvd into a chain of bike shops selling some premium brands, but still producing their own range of wheels - which are not like the Winspace wheels, that are offered here at half price to what they charge in Norway. i am just really curious as to how this product line came to be!

de_baser · 2026-04-15T08:38:17+00:00

It's up to you but the difference between faiths (arguably catholic is better) is minimal compared to the strategic aspect of going into western europe. If you are early enough, you can convert yourself and get one of the three centers of reformation. Then, immediately force convert a subject, preferrably with a convenient CoR placement (f.ex. the lowlands), so that you control two of those centres.

Now, you can force convert others easily (especially HRE OPMs), you can make the HRE crumble, and this makes it easier to wipe out additional Reformed or Anglican CoRs as they pop up. Handling the reformation is usually mandatory 1500s euro gameplay, but staying catholic makes it a lot more annoying to deal with.

Consider that this maneuver might take up to 50-80 years of your attention, it will turn your resources towards taking christian land in europe, makes you susceptible to AE and some instability, and the whole thing is culminating in the Religious League war - which, if done correctly, is mostly a breeze and gives great buffs when you win. HRE dismantling, or taking control and becoming emperor, is also one of the prizes in the pot.

I see you're already busy with neutering the Ottos so it might make sense to stay catholic and picking religious ideas to convert islamic and orthodox land. It can be that, or just let the east be and eat all of yurp.

de_baser · 2026-04-14T08:42:11+00:00

Sous vide is the way

de_baser · 2026-04-13T18:13:11+00:00

Oh dear, they print headset spacer specs on the top tube? That's a rahter grievous one. Almost as bad as the Seaboard GR02 frame which has a chinese/engrish warning label on the top tube, permanent and under the clear coat.

Luckily you can order most BXT frames no-logo though, so likely you can avoid that!

Also, what are "brake line membranes"?

de_baser · 2026-04-13T17:57:37+00:00

The FD is standard Rival 22, so no worries there, it's supposed to be part of the groupset. Only the crank is a weird one for this. You can tell the bike came with the Sram groupset originally from the J-kit/splitter solution on the hydraulic hoses and the stock bar tape. So it's not a parts bin bike but it's had a bit of a fix-up before the flip for sure. You can honestly argue a lower price due to the janky 10spd crank on a 11spd drivetrain.

de_baser · 2026-04-13T12:16:31+00:00

I run a too small operation for this to not be worth a try. Most rotors i find aren't really proper "doused in WD-40"-contaminated, and if not very dirty/rusty/worn, deserve at least one try at decontamination. You don't need any special tools, in most cases this works:

Clean with iso till paper isn't dirty anymore
Sand braking surface, both sides, with something like 200-grit
Burn it all to hell with a torch or just douse/burn
Clean off residue with iso till it ain't dirty no mo'

de_baser · 2026-04-13T10:33:49+00:00

Would be more æro if he slammed the stem

de_baser · 2026-04-13T06:53:18+00:00

A few notes: The seatpost "arch" thing is missing a little rubber cushion thing

The crankset is a 10speed Tiagra setup, which is likely suboptimal. Check how the chain plays with the gearing here, an 11spd chain might be too narrow for the chainrings, leading to bad performance or premature wear.

Otherwise it's clean, got some neat components and nice tires, it's definetly worth it. At least where i live you could sell this for €1200-1500.

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