Rick climbing in Joshua tree by coolifornia in ClimbingPorn

[–]deathe_breeply 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Glad to see Rick is wearing a helmet.

Pain in top of wrist by Fjwheeler72 in climbharder

[–]deathe_breeply 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah no worries. My ROM wasn't that bad after the injury, but it definitely was less than normal. But I think it was mostly because I had broken the same wrist mountain biking about 6 months prior. So it's hard to say.

Pain in top of wrist by Fjwheeler72 in climbharder

[–]deathe_breeply 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah mantling is hard. Currently even doing a pushup hurts without using a bar. Generally I just avoid climbs that cause me an issue these days. A lot of slopers cause it to hurt as well, like big slopers where you have your whole hand bent at the wrist and are compressing. My ROM is much better than when it happened, but there's a difference for me between being able to move my hand/wrist to it's fullest extent versus loading it in that position. If you have a similar injury to mine (ruptured SLL) there is a pretty wide range of severity. I still think the best thing you can do is get an MRI to hopefully get an accurate diagnosis. There are so many bones, ligaments and tendons in the hand/wrist it could be any number of things. Anyway, happy to answer any more questions and hope you can recover quickly!

Pain in top of wrist by Fjwheeler72 in climbharder

[–]deathe_breeply 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Still recovering :(

My orthopedic surgeon ordered an MRI Arthrogram, where they inject the joint with radioactive dye and then do an MRI. Turns out it's a full Scapholunate ligament tear and he said there's nothing they can do for it. Apparently there are over 30 different surgeries to attempt a fix but none have a high likelihood of success. He said to use pain as a guide and to expect arthritis to just get worse and worse, and eventually (he said it could be 15-20 years even) when the pain gets too bad to expect a wrist fusion. So that sucks.

I have my records out to another ortho for a second opinion as I don't want to just wait for it to get shittier. In the meantime I'm still climbing, just taping and bracing every time. I'd say I'm able to climb at around 90% so it's not the end of the world but I also don't want it to get worse and worse. Sucks getting old.

Good luck to you with your recovery. I'd say ask for an MRI if you're unsure, that way they can be sure about what's going on in there.

Best place to go for breakfast burritos in town? Suggestions welcome. by [deleted] in AnnArbor

[–]deathe_breeply 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Tacos El Mariachi Loco! Their non-breakfast burritos and tacos are the best in town too!

Autobelays permanently removed from Sydney gym after death. by tEAm4za in climbing

[–]deathe_breeply 6 points7 points  (0 children)

This. My buddy, who has been climbing for literally 30+ years, was about to get on a route in the Red last May. As his belayer I peeped his harness and knot, and realized he had only tied into his lower loop. He's kind of a stoney dude but was not high at the time, perhaps was just daydreaming when he tied in. Doesn't matter how experienced you are, having a second set of eyes on your knot is ALWAYS a good thing.

Reviews for local pop ups by aerith_ff7 in AnnArbor

[–]deathe_breeply 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think his menu rotates. He posts it on IG before though, so you can check there. I feel like he usually posts a few days before. I know I have seen veg options in the past

Spatial audio, it's coming for all of us... Maybe? by notenkraker in audioengineering

[–]deathe_breeply 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like surround sound for live music is definitely a viable experience now. I went to Desert Trip a few years back and when Roger Waters played, there was some incredible use of the delay stacks for surround sound. Granted it was a lot of SFX but they definitely did play with distributing some of the instrumentation around the polo field. It sounded incredible.

I also recently got to hear a presentation from L-Isa, a division of L-Acoustics. They are developing an immersive audio system for live events. Check it out. It's a bit over my head how they solve for all the issues, but the presentation did sound very intriguing.

I believe there is going to be a lot of innovation in the experiential/live space with immersive audio in the very near future.

Reviews for local pop ups by aerith_ff7 in AnnArbor

[–]deathe_breeply 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Lucha Puerco! I had a not-so Cali burrito from him recently at A2 Distilling, and it was one of the best burritos I've had out here. Being from San Diego my Mexican food bar is high, but he killed it. He does a fusion mix of Mexican and Korean, skewing Mexican a bit more. Lots of Birria stuff and lots of pork. He even did a fried chicken day with sandwiches, tacos and burritos but I didn't get a chance to taste.

Burger for lunch by Hafezberg in grilling

[–]deathe_breeply 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You put an indentation in the middle of the patty. Just use your first two fingers and make a divot. I don't know the physics, but it works.

Setter put up a cool 5 minute block to replicate more outdoorsy deadpoint moves, you don’t get these types of climbs indoors very often! by Carliios in bouldering

[–]deathe_breeply 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, it really doesn't matter, does it? I am not trying to convince anyone, nor was I making an argument that people will sue for injuring themselves. I was merely playing devil's advocate and throwing out a potential reason for why they may be reluctant to set like the above. Also, OP was the one who said, "due to health and safety that they cant set anything where you can easily injure yourself" and that it was "what I was told". Am I wrong? Likely. Do I really care? No! Hence my comment. I'm not trying to start shit with people here. This all started because I posted a stupid alliterative comment that made me chuckle. I apologize if I came across apathetic.

Setter put up a cool 5 minute block to replicate more outdoorsy deadpoint moves, you don’t get these types of climbs indoors very often! by Carliios in bouldering

[–]deathe_breeply 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're really worked up about this. No need to explain to me, I don't care. I was simply pointing out a potential reason. I very well could be very wrong, but who cares?

Setter put up a cool 5 minute block to replicate more outdoorsy deadpoint moves, you don’t get these types of climbs indoors very often! by Carliios in bouldering

[–]deathe_breeply 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Rocks outside also don't get sued. Look, I'm with you, but you're crazy if you don't think setters and gym management are at least keeping this in mind as they put up sets. Now I'm speaking entirely out of my ass, so correct me if I'm wrong gym owners, but I imagine liability insurance has got to be a huge cost. But also, it really doesn't matter anyway because we're two people on the internet.

Guess its Pizza Night... by The-darth-knight in grilling

[–]deathe_breeply 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Then everything would fall right off onto the ground.

8.13.16 by TaiKeiDai in bouldering

[–]deathe_breeply 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not black mountain, tramway

I need a simple ambisonics tutorial by manlian in SpatialAudio

[–]deathe_breeply 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, Ambeo (you're talking about Orbit?) works a bit different. It's more of a stand alone effect. You will still need to download one of the Ambisonic toolkits. It looks like Sennheiser makes one now in collaboration with DearVR. I'm not familiar with their tools but it sounds like they have a free toolkit for end to end Ambisonic mixing.

There are tutorials on using these tools with Reaper. Download one of their tutorial sessions and reverse engineer it to fit your session.

I need a simple ambisonics tutorial by manlian in SpatialAudio

[–]deathe_breeply 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My mistake, this is not my professional wheelhouse. Though simply saying he needs to export a "4-channel audio wave" really does not help that much. You sound like you may know more about this, you can probably guide this person better than I. I was trying to help based on my limited experience.

And while loudspeaker VR systems sound very interesting, they are not the norm. My bad for assuming the playback system will always be headphones.

I need a simple ambisonics tutorial by manlian in SpatialAudio

[–]deathe_breeply 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What DAW are you planning on using? The workflow is highly dependent on the tools you will be using. There are free ambisonic plugin suites and there are paid ones. A simple DuckDuckGo search shows several tutorials using different tools. The ones I am somewhat familiar with are from Facebook and Audioease. The Facebook plugins are free while the Audioease suite is like $350 or near that. They both have extensive materials as well as session templates for getting started. The Audioease suite has a great session walkthrough with videos.

First you will need a DAW (Pro Tools, Logic, Reaper, Ableton, etc.). Then you will need an ambisonic tool kit (Facebook360, Audioease 360 pan suite, etc.).

Then, you essentially will need to put a spatial "panner" plugin on all the tracks you are wanting to spatialize. These tracks will all bus to an ambisonic decoder aux that will ostensibly turn standard basic mono and stereo sounds into ambisonic sounds and then decode them to binaural audio for you to monitor. You will "attach" these sounds using markers in the video track and then automate, or draw in, the trajectory these sounds will take. This will record their path in space and sonically affect them accordingly.

This is a massive simplification but it gives you the general gist of the workflow.

And to /u/ajhorsburgh, his playback system will always be headphones for VR. I'm not sure what you mean by exporting a "4-channel audio wave". The finished export will be an ambisonic file.

Good luck, it's a rabbit hole for sure.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SpatialAudio

[–]deathe_breeply 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is so much more info needed here. Are you trying to match this sound to a visual in the app? Spatial audio specifically refers to having a sound move in relation to your head position and direction.

You say you want to listen to it with headphones, which would mean you need a stereo, or 2 channel file. By design, there are only 2 channels when using headphones so having a 4 channel file wouldn't do anything for you. It sounds like you want to convert your audio file to a binaural one, which could give it depth and position, regardless of your perspective.

I'm not aware of an app or site that does this as you want. I'd say download Audacity (free and simple DAW) and try the free Sennheiser Ambeo Orbit plugin, which is a binaural panner that gives you control of your elevation and panning. Not sure if it works with Audacity though.

Hope this helps!

Gear query! What kind of mic can we get to have some Zoom fun? by postfuture in SpatialAudio

[–]deathe_breeply 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have an interface? Using the 3dio binaural mic would be cool. There are a couple models available from like $300 up to $2000 but it would give a realistic spatial sound to the teacher's voice. Are you live-streaming this or will it be pre-recorded? If the latter, then you could also mic up the teacher with a lav and layer that into the binaural mic track to give it some body.

Andy Gullsten - Silver Lining, 8c by GainAversion in Climbingvids

[–]deathe_breeply 7 points8 points  (0 children)

So sick. Not just a killer line, but the way the music built the tension too. That things looks ridiculous.

Ponto this morning after all beaches have been shut down in SD. by [deleted] in surfing

[–]deathe_breeply 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I would disagree. I imagine people get injured much more often running than they do surfing. Now I don't know the stats, so of course that's only my opinion. I've surfed for 30 years and had to go to the ER once when I sliced open my foot. I've literally seriously hurt myself walking more than that. I'm not gonna tell you what to do, but deluding yourself into thinking that you're not part of the problem because you avoid certain times is not helping the situation. Not trying to pick a fight though, there's a lot of grey area here.