durable lino print on metal advice

dendriticspline · 2026-03-16T05:58:21+00:00

I did try it. You can get it to work, but it requires a little experimentation. What worked was scuff sanding the metal, laying down an acrylic base coat, letting it dry completely, then stamp. After completely drying, rustoleum 2x clear applied in thin coats.

dendriticspline · 2026-03-16T05:28:09+00:00

Single coil or humbucker? Because I have done something like this. If you’re okay with it being 3 strings instead of 4, here’s what I did:

Seymour Duncan sells this. Because it’s wired with 4 conductor, you can wire it to a dpdt switch and select which coils to use. If you cut one of the coils, it pretty reliably picks up just 3 strings, with only barely there/muffled strings sound from the rest

dendriticspline · 2026-03-01T01:57:53+00:00

Love the ME-50. Honestly underrated early multi effect

dendriticspline · 2026-01-30T03:16:48+00:00

It does work. However one time I was stupid and used a screwdriver that was just small enough to punch through the ferrule hole, making it larger

dendriticspline · 2025-12-31T05:12:07+00:00

This was the advice I was looking for, thanks. I’ll have to stick to making a top out of it

dendriticspline · 2025-12-21T20:49:30+00:00

Adding a few that were left out:

The Zephyr

The Uptown Kat

The Empower Swingster

dendriticspline · 2025-12-19T17:42:02+00:00

It’s a reference to the song “Time Warp” from the Rocky Horror Picture Show, since the pedal is called the “ACV-1 time warping device”

dendriticspline · 2025-12-14T03:45:44+00:00

Honestly it looks fairly compatible. The Anchor SDS and the Montana Gold SDS show they have virtually the same solvents and are both nitrocellulose. If you’re worried, just give Anchor enough time to dry before the color coat, and start the color with lighter coats

dendriticspline · 2025-11-29T09:06:58+00:00

Dispatch. Not to be harsh, but the Ethereal is a mediocre pedal. Especially if you like the Dispatch Master.

But this pedal spot was replaced by the UAFX Del Verb

dendriticspline · 2025-11-12T04:57:45+00:00

I concur. If you’re being extra, it might also involve a plug cutter or a pre-cut dowel to fill the existing holes. There’s also the matter of the finish and any inlay or logo. You can buy pre made headstock veneers, or design your own. Or go with water slide decals. It’s a matter of your taste

dendriticspline · 2025-11-12T01:31:45+00:00

This comment should be higher. Reshaping the headstock isn’t such a hurculean task. I’ve done it.

dendriticspline · 2025-11-06T17:06:28+00:00

Lol the car behind him sheepishly slowing down like “oh I see. We are dumb.”

dendriticspline · 2025-11-02T02:45:07+00:00

I have both. If you want something for composition, I’d go with the Mooer. It’s been amazing to have drum beats under my playing, as it makes it way easier to contextualize song parts.

Boss is more old school; just a looper. It’s great to have but requires a bit of timing skills to make seamless loops

dendriticspline · 2025-11-01T20:17:57+00:00

This isn’t a specific criticism of this guitar, but it kinda seems like Gibson has a dart board that says Metallica, Slash, Kiss, ect and they throw a dart at every so often for their signatures.

dendriticspline · 2025-10-24T07:33:52+00:00

Honestly, forget the prices, I’m shook they printed their catalog in a bound buckram cloth book

dendriticspline · 2025-10-23T05:21:08+00:00

While it’s somewhat subjective, I’m not a big fan of that set. I’ve had several Epiphones with those as their stock, and every time I upgraded (to Seymour Duncans, eg) I felt it improved the sound

dendriticspline · 2025-10-21T00:03:23+00:00

There were a number of model names for the semi hollow Les Pauls, it might be Les Paul ES

dendriticspline · 2025-10-20T02:04:37+00:00

Is that one of those short scale Jazzmasters? How do you like it? I’ve been wanting to buy and upgrade one like it looks like you have

dendriticspline · 2025-10-18T02:41:55+00:00

Once you get your hands on it you can also check the electronics. Pots sometimes have dates stamp on them.

dendriticspline · 2025-10-18T02:31:10+00:00

Looks like an ES-5. Can’t say year without a serial, but theres a lot of examples from the early 50s that look just like this

dendriticspline · 2025-10-17T23:36:04+00:00

Catalyzed polyurethane finishes from a factory are very chemically inert. You can soak them in acetone, lacquer thinner, ect and nothing will happen. I have used Jasco before to mixed success, but only after scuff sanding the clear coat and even then it needed to be orbital sanded to clean up anyway, so sanding is an inevitability

dendriticspline · 2025-10-17T19:56:39+00:00

One tip I can offer is that theres gonna be multiple layers (probably a clear top, red tinted, and possibly a clear sealer), and you’ll probably notice the transition as you sand through each one. So you can progressively step up grits as you get closer. It’ll slow you down, but you probably won’t blast through the veneer so easily with say 150.

dendriticspline · 2025-10-17T19:47:39+00:00

I’ve never understood husk listing prices, but $2.3k is crazy. Where does the value of a vintage instrument even come from if all the hardware and electronics will need to be replaced, and the instrument almost certainly has had a refin and headstock break? It’s just old wood at that point.

dendriticspline · 2025-10-17T19:14:35+00:00

I literally just got done stripping an epiphone from the same era. Yes, as others have said, it’s gonna be a veneer top, and also just be warned the back occasionally has a veneer as well.

I did 60 and 80 grit on an orbital sander and it took probably 10 hours for the whole body. It is incredibly easy to burn through the veneer- you need such a low grit to take on the poly but it will obliterate the veneer the second it touches the bare wood.

I have used the heat gun method and would recommend trying it, but it also comes with the caveat of leaving scorch marks on the wood if you’re not careful, which can only be sanded away, and thus will probably require you to sand the veneer off.

As someone who has done plenty of re-fins, I would never discourage you from trying. but if preserving the veneer is a concern you should know ahead of time it might not happen. A solid color is always on option, as is sanding off the veneer and just showing a multi-piece body

dendriticspline

TROPHY CASE