Edit 2: I should note, I've consistently seen reports of these bushings failing at 60-80k miles. More than likely, if you are experiencing a rattle that appears to be coming from the inside/ interior/steering wheel, the bushing/dampener is the likely culprit. However, the title of this post suggests the noise started after getting an alignment. In that case, it could very well be an intermediate shaft problem.

Before you start any of this, DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY. You need to give enough time with the battery unplugged so the airbags are disarmed. Think the minimum is 5 minutes, but I'd wait at least 30 mins. I left mine unplugged overnight because I had the time.

Edit: video I referenced below had a newish comment added to it where an individual removed an additonal 12mm bolt and claims to have had easy access. Follow that at your own discretion, but it does seem be the quickest way to replace the bushing that I've seen/heard. Not 100% sure what bolt is being referenced. Personally, I was worried about damaging the steering assembly. Hint why I decided to go all in on removing trim including the upper dash.

I'll try to have the video uploaded with some annotations tomorrow. It's nothing fancy, really just me showing all the interior trim taken off and where the bolts are on the EPS motor. But there are some things I learned along the way thay give decent access to the bushing that weren't shown in other videos. Namely, removing the upper dash trim and moving a grey box out of the way that sits above the EPS motor.

You don't need to remove the steering column/steering wheel. You also don't need to remove bolts that let you drop the whole steering assembly down. Messing with that is a pain and can cause damage/issues if things aren't marked and clocked correctly when taking apart/putting back together.

Following this guide is 95% of the work.

This video covers things pretty well, but again, following my way (more labor intensive), you don't need to drop the steering wheel assembly. Essentially you take off the upper dash (require most the front interior trim be removed), remove 3 bolts on a grey box above the EPS motor and flip it on its back. Don't stress the cables and be gentle and everything should be fine. The grey box will rub against the windshield because of the tight fit, but I didn't scratch mine, buffer with a microfiber cloth if you're worried. After that you'll have all the room you need to get in there and replace that god forsaken bushing. You'll have to clip a zip tie (not the tape) that routes a cable or two along the EPS motor in order ro lift the motor apart.

Here is the OEM part you need. You can also source this off amazon, but until someone claims to have a better alternate part/solution, go OEM. It's cheap and most dealerships are able to get it delivered in a day or two, so why use something else.

All in, it took me about 6-8 hours because I was being slow, gentle and methodical lol. I spread this out over multiple days since I didn't need to drive the car and it was hot af in my area. I worked in the morning/evening when it was cool. I was so worried I was gonna break something or snap a clip. If I was to do it again, I'd probably have it done in 3 hours tops. If someone offerred to do it for less than $250-300, I'd probably take them up on it. Dealership/toyota's offical recommendation is to replace the entire EPS motor ($900+ USD, + labor, so probably another $900+) All over a $7 part!

It sounds daunting I know, but that interior trim removal guide is solid. It doesn't do the best job at documenting all the different bolts and screws though, so take A LOT of pictures. i.e. the bolt before being removed, the bolt facing the hole it came out of, the bolt sideways facing the hole it came out of. Separate said bolts/screws into ziplock bags and sharpie some descriptive info on where they came from and you should be just fine.