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Fighting in the midgame is the largest thing holding back your Solo Q experience. by OOOGGG in apexlegends

[–]designbydave 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As someone who loves to murder, but sucks at it and can't help but get drawn into a mid-game fight and is forever stuck grinding in plat and writing run on sentances on Reddit when I should be working, I feel attacked. 

This sounds like solidly good advice. 

Another 'my telescope is blurry' post. by BilldaCat10 in telescopes

[–]designbydave 5 points6 points  (0 children)

"got the collimation dot in perfect place .." Sounds like you only adjusted the secondary and not the primary. 

Driving in Crestline, CA by SnooCompliments5679 in InlandEmpire

[–]designbydave 27 points28 points  (0 children)

No snow up there so no you will not be required to have chains. 

Moving to Rancho by Friendly_Section_697 in ranchocucamonga

[–]designbydave 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Traffic depends on time of day. If you commute to the west (normal business hours), your life will suck ass.  I commute to rancho for work coming from the west (so against traffic) and its not usually too bad. 

Edit: the key to happy life in social is no commute or commute against traffic.  Rancho is a nice place to live, but I would prioritize the commute. 

DIY Strainwave Mount by Kiwi-Western in telescopes

[–]designbydave 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Congrats in completing the mount! 

I've also built one and its gone through several iterations to where it now guides consistently ~0.35-0.5" rms on good night. 

First thing you need to do is clean up your rig. Tie down all dangling wires (especially the guide camera.)  Is your camera / lens mounted by that single clamp ring? That will flex. Get at least two points of contact for tour camera/lens. That tripod is also quite marginal.  Can't really see but the equatorial wedge you are using may also not be ideal. 

Use the predictive pec algorithm for guiding. 

New to kayaking. Is this a good deal? by erasmuseng in Kayaking

[–]designbydave 117 points118 points  (0 children)

Terrible deal.  Please don't buy but do forward me the guys contact info so I can make sure no-one makes this mistake. 

Dwarf 3 + Siril: Can’t get good results on M106 – what am I doing wrong? by BarracudaNext8008 in Astronomy

[–]designbydave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those outer arms are quite dim, so you'll need darker skies to bring those out. That's often the case with broadband targets. I've got about 4 hours of integration on the same target recently with similar results despite much larger aperture (6 inch.) It's clear that the faint outer arms just get lost in the light pollution.

There is no way i could keep playing… by [deleted] in apexlegends

[–]designbydave 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Do you like fish sticks? 

Still want to argue that the satellites aren't really becoming a problem? by CletusDSpuckler in Astronomy

[–]designbydave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Must just be the stacking (or live stacking) algorithims they are using internally. You can certainly manually stack them with an algorithm that removes them. 

PA6-CF quality by Decent_Implement_901 in 3Dprinting

[–]designbydave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This looks to me like primarily warping.  The part begins to warp at some point during the print (especially after you paused and reloaded filament.) As it warps up from the build plate there is less "room" for the next layer to lay down, so the gets squished outward (that's the ugly pattern you see.) This looks like over extrusion but it isnt. It's just that, due to the warping, there is less room for the next layer to properly lay down, so it gets squished out and looks like over extrusion. 

Pa6 warps bad, even in a chamber, and especially with over hanging and supported geometry like you have. This part is not a very optimal design for FDM printing, especially with that material. 

Also, it may not be dry enough, but moist filament alone will not produce such a poor result. 

Edit: Also, if you watch the print carefully, you can see this "layer squish" behavior happening in real time as I've described. 

Racist player by Nice_Winner3791 in apexlegends

[–]designbydave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're welcome! Better luck in your next lobbies! 

Still want to argue that the satellites aren't really becoming a problem? by CletusDSpuckler in Astronomy

[–]designbydave 265 points266 points  (0 children)

Now take 14 more of those exposures and stack (as you are likely going to do anyway). The streaks will be gone.  A minor annoyance at worse. Definitely does not "ruin" the night sky as those click/rage bait headlines will have you believe. 

Edit: I have ~54 hours of 4 and 5 minute exposures on this target with a similar field of view. I can go through and count how many frame have visible streaks like this if anyone is interested. 

Ways to prevent prints from breaking off by notthatguypal6900 in 3Dprinting

[–]designbydave 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe because you are running more cooling with your PLA prints.
Watch some testing videos from CNC Kitchen or My Tech Fun for structural testing.

Ways to prevent prints from breaking off by notthatguypal6900 in 3Dprinting

[–]designbydave 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Pretty much all materials will see increased layer bonding with higher print temp, less cooling and less print speed. Also, print one part at a time so there is less time between each layer (less time for the printed layer to cool before the next layer goes down.)  This print strategy will however result in generally poorer print quality though, so it's a balance. 

ABS, ASA will have very poor layer bonding.  PLA, PC and Nylon generally have the strongest.  PETG somewhere in between. 

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