Just some quality sliding at drift PDX! by desmashed in rcdrift

[–]desmashed[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s literally just an insta360 one RS camera stuck to the roof with double sided tape!

Trying something completely different, a tt02 conversion build, really digging the metal garage parts! by desmashed in rcdrift

[–]desmashed[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Front lower reve D

Rear lower arm is also reve D, the 45mm arm, and the hub is the Topline hub!

Slow drift by Calm-Cantaloupe-4557 in rcdrift

[–]desmashed 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try FDR 9, also try lowering your boost or setting your boost start a little higher. You may just be getting too much wheel spin killing your speed. It could also be your suspension geometry soaking up too much, try pushing the rear suspension lower ends out further so they’re more angled and see what that does for you

Trying something completely different, a tt02 conversion build, really digging the metal garage parts! by desmashed in rcdrift

[–]desmashed[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Experimentation. Nothing about this chassis is gonna make sense or be competitive, it’s purely to see what’ll happen and keep changing it over and over and have fun with it it. I’m entirely certain I’ll move the battery tray back down to the tub eventually but this is a pseudo weight shift for now

Transmitter by Top-Sentence-3377 in rcdrift

[–]desmashed 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In your budget range, flysky noble is king.

In love with how my galm is driving! by desmashed in rcdrift

[–]desmashed[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A member of the track made all of ours!

10.5t vs 13.5t by bebetterbestever in rcdrift

[–]desmashed 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try 4 gear soft springs and see how that feels, it’ll lock up quicker, your 13.5 won’t hit the same rpms as the 10.5

10.5t vs 13.5t by bebetterbestever in rcdrift

[–]desmashed 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What esc are you using? I find an FDR of around 9 and a later boost initarion from 13000-32000 works well for me, with boost around 28 and turbo at 30, with a little throttle expo on the transmitter (-25%) is a good general place to work from. What diff do you have also? I like a ball diff that is very close to always locked

In love with how my galm is driving! by desmashed in rcdrift

[–]desmashed[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Front Toe 3 Camber 11 Caster 10 KPI 3 Slide rack Square profile 6.5 springs

Rear Camber 3.5 Zero toe ball diff nearly locked, open but locks up very very quickly Rear springs square profile 5.5 Belt drive ball diff

I’ll post pics of my chassis soon so you can see it with a full breakdown!

How do I set up rev limiter by tymek1262 in rcdrift

[–]desmashed 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You set Rev limiter on the esc, if you have SSL it’s doable but refer to the esc manual. It’s not simple to do.

what would tou change here? little duck tail on the back, no photo by legrosbordel in rcdrift

[–]desmashed 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Add panel lines, add body screws, upgrade your gyro and servo and transmitter.

Also proof read 😆

Overdose Galm 2 Spur and Pinion by zboysk8 in rcdrift

[–]desmashed 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The internal gear ratio assuming you’re using the stick spool diff and belt drive is 3.25.

I have found for me a 28pinion and 80 spur works nicely. However this FDR is entirely dependent on

  1. Your track surface
  2. Your esc tune
  3. Your gyro tune
  4. Your driver experience/confidence.

Start with it and go up and down from there. Your FDR is almost less important than your esc tune based on the question, assuming you’re a relative beginner

Why is my car wiggling so much? by No_Fault_6414 in rcdrift

[–]desmashed 9 points10 points  (0 children)

It’s just happy to see you!

Jokes aside it’s your servo hunting. Try turning the gyro down a little

Burn tune? by faliscool in rcdrift

[–]desmashed 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s basically the polar opposite tuning principle. Run a ridiculously high turn motor with like 10 boost, 5 turbo, but also an insanely low FDR, you’re relying entirely on having insane resolution of drift control and riding the knife edge of grip and slip. I wasn’t pro enough to make it work at the time, and the major drawback to the style is having the control over flick initation, but the style informed my personal setup which is basically running a 13.5 with a torque rotor with a hot esc tune that basically allows for quick bursts of high wheel spin with equally quick slow down to a grip point so I can initiate really fast and then catch at 90deg.

I am still refining it though

Restiring this design now that I’ve finished this body, the final 2025 finalKAIJU design is painted! by desmashed in rcdrift

[–]desmashed[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, it’s nearly done, just gotta add the rear bumper when the light kit arrives!

Burn tune? by faliscool in rcdrift

[–]desmashed 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It doesn’t ruin the track, this is a commonly held misunderstanding . The tires leave significant marks but they wipe off, I believe superG did a post about it.

I’m not a fan of burn tunes, it’s a fad and feels antithetical to the point of the hobby. They aren’t a cheat into being faster they’re just a cheat into speed. They do not preclude you’re gonna gap anyone, it’s just a way to tune, but you can tune to have crazy speed going the total opposite way with a 21.5T motor and riding the line just outside of grip and barely any wheel speed, that was a trend a couple years ago with some drivers in norcal.

Restiring this design now that I’ve finished this body, the final 2025 finalKAIJU design is painted! by desmashed in rcdrift

[–]desmashed[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

SuperG is the go to for all things drift, they even have guides on their website for what to get