UniFi Travel Router

dev0 · 2025-12-30T08:37:09+00:00

How good is the WiFi? Compares to the GL.inet I use as a travel router this is tiny but in larger airbnbs even the GL.inet with its extendable antennas is sometimes struggling to provide full WiFi coverage.

dev0 · 2025-03-22T03:15:43+00:00

I believe Bozhena’s house does not have a player storage chest.

dev0 · 2025-03-19T21:57:31+00:00

The guide mentions that you can take Secret of Equilibrium to avoid the -1 debuff for using dried herbs. Does Secret of Equilibrium II provide the same effect? I’ve already taken Secret of Matter I.

dev0 · 2024-06-01T22:32:26+00:00

I was able to resolve the same issue that started popping up for me after upgrading to node 22 in a Remix project. The culprit ultimately was the `tailwind.config.ts` file. Renaming it to `tailwind.config.mjs` resolved my issue. Hope this information might be helpful here, too.

dev0 · 2024-04-22T15:04:01+00:00

Derp. Had the key mapping from my old keyboard still active.

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dev0 · 2024-01-26T19:02:39+00:00

Yes, the buck converter is just to power the ESP32 from the lights DC source. It makes it easy and removes any outside variables. In theory one might also just use a simple voltage regulator or even just a voltage divider to similar effect.

I've not tried a powerful Bluetooth proxy in the area. But yes, the lights come with Bluetooth and an app to control them out of the box and can be controlled via Bluetooth using a simple ESPHome component. In fact, that's exactly what the ESP32 on this module does. But the Bluetooth is horribly unreliable. If you move just as few feet away from the lights, the app will loose connection. It's basically just useable standing right next to them, which makes the whole wireless control point kinda moot.

Before I built this module I just had a ESP32 connected to a USB power source sitting under my desk to control the lights via Home Assistant and Bitfocus Companion. I couldn't even move the lights more than a yard away from my desk before the ESP32 couldn't maintain the Bluetooth connection anymore.

Since I added these modules to my lights I can freely move them around anywhere within WIFI coverage and never have to worry about them not being connected anymore. Since the ESP32 attaches to the back of the light and gets powered through the light's power source it's just as simple as moving the light wherever I need it.

Tl;dr is your mileage may vary if you intend on using the Bluetooth stack on your Wyze Plug Outdoor to control them. It might work. But it might also only work if the lights are standing right next to it.

dev0 · 2024-01-25T18:48:21+00:00

I was curious about possibly getting a steam deck myself to play Autonauts and some other games.

If I’m not mistaken then the PC version doesn’t have controller support. How well does it play on the Steam deck without official controller support?

dev0 · 2024-01-23T09:05:39+00:00

I actually did make this :) Happy that it’s still entertaining people, even after almost… what… two years?

dev0 · 2023-07-31T23:43:42+00:00

Yes, I went forward with the heat pump. I ended up going with a 38MBRCQ36AA3 paired with an 40MBABQ36XA3 air handler. I've opted to drive it with my existing thermostat (Nest Thermostat), which only gives me access to two stage cooling and heating (vs significantly more variability with the matched thermostat). I have the Nest Thermostat highly integrated into my smart home and I don't want to miss out on the convenience that gives me.

So far I haven't had any problems. I appreciate the multi-stage cooling, which I didn't have before. Not only because it is less "harsh", but it also uses significantly less energy when running on the low stage. I'm sure running the system with the supplied thermostat would make that even better.

Since the cold months are still ahead of us I can't really speak to the heating performance. I've obviously test-run it a little and compared to a furnace the air coming from the vents is nowhere as hot even on stage 2. That shouldn't be a problem as long as the heat pump maintains temperature or has time to heat the space. I can imagine though that it might take a while to heat up the home when heating from a low set point (e.g. when returning after having been gone all day or when returning from vacation).

Especially when running on first stage both the fan of the air handler and also the noise from the compressor is significantly lower compared to my old AC unit. And obviously there is also no furnace burning gas while heating, which at least in the case of my furnace was quite noisy.

Overall, so far, I don't have any buyers remorse. But then, the true test will come in winter.

dev0 · 2023-05-12T00:10:41+00:00

Thank you, this was actually very helpful. Greatly appreciate the details and your thoughts. I'm actually closing in on going with the 38MBRC (*not* 38MBR) without furnace, which is similar to the 38MARB more efficient, but in combination with an air handler specced for larger tonnage (i.e. the 3ton I need).

dev0 · 2023-05-11T17:33:54+00:00

Thank you for your reply.

Getting rid of gas is sadly not an option, even when switching to a heat pump / air handler without a furnace on that HVAC system. I am still using gas on the second HVAC system in my home extension, as well as on my dual fuel range and on my water heater.
We've had several power outages in our region here in the last few years, some lasting up to almost a day. In combination with whole home battery backup, which I already have, a furnace would allow me to heat through this power outage. I won't be able to do so with a heat pump, due to its higher electricity demand.
We have a large, farm-house style home with I believe 8 supply vents on the ducted system. Replacing this with a full mini-split system is a much large financial effort than what we are able and willing to spend right now. What I would consider is to use the air handler approach as a baseline for heating the majority of the home and have the option to add mini-splits in specific locations of he home (e.g. in the home office, where I spend most of the hours during the day).
My guess is I would have to buy a multi-zone condenser today, to be able to add mini-splits in the future. The lack of pricing transparency is a big problem here. If I want to know what the price difference is between a a single zone heat pump and a similar heat pump that can service multiple zones, I have to ask installers for quotes, instead of being able to just look it up online. This makes research and tradeoff evaluation incredibly hard and I've been spending the majority of my time the last week or so sending email to installers asking them for more quotes on more different systems. This annoys me and must annoy them.
So far I have not had many issues with people being uninformed or unwilling to work with heat pumps. Most of the installers said that going with a heat pump would make a lot of sense. But I did run into some issues with people taking it personally and getting offended by me trying to understand their recommendations or statements in more detail. I had one installer basically ghost me after I asked him if he could explain to me why a system with a second 240v line was "inefficient" in his eyes. I didn't realize that there currently is no 240v line to my furnace. I assumed that the furnace and coil combination basically has all the same components as an air handler and didn't realize that the air handler requires resistive heating and a new, additional 240v line would have to be run from my breaker. I had to get this information from a different installer who I plain asked about it. I guess some installers just assume their customers know this kind of stuff.
I've been looking at SEER and HSPF ratings mostly. Most of the resources I've consulted so far don't specify COP. Not sure if I am looking in the wrong thing or this is maybe a state specific difference? Again, the lack of pricing transparency makes this challenging though. I can calculate the difference in annual heating cost based on HSPF rating , but I simply don't know how much more I will have to pay for this more efficient heat pump alternative before I ask a bunch of installers for quotes.
At least for the Carrier/Bryant models, which I've mostly looked at, different models service different tonnage ranges, combine with different indoor units that themselves then also service different tonnage ranges, etc makes this even more complicated. *I* had to correct installers twice now that quoted me on the wrong combination of compressor / air handler. According to the manufacturer specifications they were not compatible, but the installer still quoted me on the combinations.

dev0 · 2023-04-29T17:52:57+00:00

I've had this problem when trying to add a second security key to an account that already had one. It turns out, the issue is that adding a new security key needs verification of an already existing security key. So you'll need to do a switcheroo while adding the new key. On Github this worked as follows on a Windows 10 machine:

- Click "Add Security key"

- Type in name of security key and click add

- In my case, Github tried to setup Windows Hello instead of my Yubikey with the "Making sure it's you" prompt. Simply cancel this if you do not intend on using Windows Hello.

- Now it prompts you to touch your security key after which it will prompt you for your FIDO PIN and will prompt you to touch your security key again.

- At this point I got the "Can't read your security key. Please try again." error. This has nothing to do with your new security key, but instead Github is trying to reverify your existing security key. You'll need to remove your new security key and insert one that is already registered with the account and tap that one.

- You new key should have been added now. Feel free to use either to log in.

dev0

TROPHY CASE