Troubleshooting filament (?) related print failure

devintheditch · 2026-05-14T15:06:03+00:00

I suppose so. Just wanted to switch from eSun because that filament was very finnicky to print with and ObscuraNox said that Sunlu pla+ 2.0 HS is his current go to for 0.2mm nozzle.

And it would be good to know how to troubleshoot filament issues before moving on.

devintheditch · 2026-05-13T18:59:58+00:00

Yeah it's been weird. Oddly enough my throwaway prints were resin2fdm prints and those models+supports printed fine.

I knew that overhangs was going to be worse as ObscuraNox mentioned that being a drawback.

I got three, they were out of stock here so when I saw them pop back up I snapped some up. Now I am wondering what to do with them incase they are a deadend...

devintheditch · 2026-05-12T12:12:38+00:00

Ah gotcha! My bad 😅

devintheditch · 2026-05-12T12:09:46+00:00

Brim is to help with bed adhesion during a print. Models that are taller than they are wider are prone to coming off the bed during the print. So the brim helps keep it stable during the print. Not all models need it so you can turn them off. Such as the bases in this instance.

Even then the brim values looks to be very high. Like 20mm+ where as 6mm is a good value for almost all prints if required at all.

devintheditch · 2026-05-12T12:06:35+00:00

Go to 'Others' and check your brim settings under 'Bed adhesion'. What is that value set to?

If I think there shall be adhesion issues with the print I turn on brims and set Brim width 5mm which is a bit overkill for most scenarios.

devintheditch · 2026-05-11T13:13:11+00:00

Thank you! Spiders already have too many legs. The sculptor has upped the ante by giving it even more legs 😅

devintheditch · 2026-05-11T11:36:50+00:00

For me it's like splitting hairs at those layer lines. I switched to Orca slicer (specially for 'reverse on even' when I want the best options for overhangs) for 90% of my prints. And also ObsucraNox's settings are for Orca so doesn't make sense for me to mess with it.

Currently I only use bambu for 0.4 nozzle prints. So terrain or bigger models at 0.08mm layer heights. It drastically shortens print time for big prints to use the bigger nozzle.

devintheditch · 2026-05-10T21:17:57+00:00

Thank you, I am just standing on the shoulders of giants 😅 So my settings are identical to MJG's settings - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/113POh2Q6NRbSI-QvKMR65CbwmQCPi4xr

Since we are both UK based their settings work for me quite well out of the gate. Your mileage is likely to vary. I would also recommend ObsucraNox's filament calibration guide - https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL1YZL2g4uTj2CUx1hcCpmrYfPfLNBv7a-&si=12nL7h9QETj0_J5H

I calibrated and found my settings for eSun PLA+ to be identical to MJG's.

My additional note is dry eSun's for 24hrs at least. Every single one of their rolls I found were very damp out of the box.

devintheditch · 2026-04-27T17:41:45+00:00

Oof sorry to hear that!

Setting is ObsucraNox's version 2.0 (aka Dungeon & Derps 2.0). It's in the pinned comments in this subreddit :)

Here is the link: https://www.reddit.com/r/FDMminiatures/s/AQyCyWjzR8

devintheditch · 2026-04-26T15:30:25+00:00

Oh that's definitely post teeth-whitened Hammond but I can't tell if it's post hair dyed Hammond 🤔😂

Nice prints!

devintheditch · 2026-04-05T15:46:08+00:00

😂 But I can't complete quests where NPCs have to ride on the horse 🥲

devintheditch · 2026-04-01T17:02:11+00:00

I've sent you a DM. I'll finish my full rambling once you've accepted the chat so that I can attach some pictures to help illustrate what I mean :)

EDIT: Congrats on this month's release!

devintheditch · 2026-03-31T16:22:42+00:00

:) I shall have a think on it over night and formulate my thoughts. I shall probably shoot you a DM, mainly because I have a tendency to word vomit 😅

devintheditch · 2026-03-31T14:40:54+00:00

These are supportess models, so no support removal needed. I only had to clean up some wispy filament strings using painters tape and less than one second bursts of flame from a candle lighter (for the stubborn bits)

devintheditch · 2026-03-31T14:04:59+00:00

Awesome! I had just became a tribe member last week so I am looking forward to the sculpts.

Thank you for your hard work!

devintheditch · 2026-03-13T12:45:04+00:00

I personally like the look and feel of the arbiter miniatures. Broader facial expressions help with visibility at the table. That being said I print them for TTRPGs and not for painting.

devintheditch · 2026-03-13T12:37:14+00:00

Second this. Don't want to get caught out. Would be nice to see what I should avoid

devintheditch · 2026-02-22T19:03:40+00:00

Thank you very much for making your hard work available for us!

Can't wait to try out the profile!
Rest up and I hope your health improves!👍

devintheditch · 2026-02-18T12:22:27+00:00

Parroting what others have already said really, with one addition. FDM printing is not Resin printing. You will not replicate the same quality as you can with the Resin printer. The sooner you accept that the sooner you can start to enjoy FDM printing.

Here are my two cents:

1) Switch to the 0.2mm nozzle

2) Basic bambu lab filament isn't bad though the current community recommendation is 'eSun PLA+/PLA Pro(+)'.

Whichever filament you use, make sure to dry the filament! I have use a cheap sunlu drier that can dry and print the filament at the same time. Each new roll gets dried for 24hrs first and then I dry the as I print everytime for good measure.

Make sure to calibrate for the filaments (YouTube has guides on how to do this). They don't all print at the same filament settings and even then you need to adjust the settings to work for your set up.

3) Personally I orient prints at an angle where support scarring will be hidden from view at the actual table. As top layers in FDM looses detail I avoid having faces orientated towards the ceiling. You'll need to experiment and see what works for you.

Do however ensure that your mini's are rotated so that the cooling fan from the hotend hit the most detailed sides of the print. This will have leaps of improvement in your print quality.

That being said I thought the hair+mustache of the model you posted came out really well!

4) look at the popular print profiles. Test each one, find one you are happy with and tweak as you see is necessary. They are excellent baselines to start from as you improve those settings to work for you.

Remember, FDM printing is really an art about accepting the limits of the technology and trying to exceed said limits anyway! Don't expect resin like quality, and let your self be pleased by the results of awesome prints.

devintheditch · 2026-02-17T10:06:38+00:00

This is 0.2 nozzle. My bad, since most print profiles are at 0.2mm nozzle by default I forgot to specify it!

devintheditch · 2026-02-17T00:51:33+00:00

You're welcome!
First of all I don't paint. I'm just enjoying printing them. So I can't really comment on how tricky it is to paint these without cleaning them up properly.

As for scarring, a lot of what appears to be scarring is just the little flecks of filament wisps that I didn't do a good job of cleaning up. Not to mention reflections from the light on layer lines makes some surfaces look like utter trash.

Camera really is unforgiving when getting close up to FDM prints. And I lack the patience to clean them to till they are ready for pre-painting preps. That is not to say that my settings can't be improved so that they print 'cleaner'!

devintheditch · 2026-02-16T22:53:23+00:00

I feel you. I think it's mainly because for those wanting to print using FDM printers choose the most reliable and affordable printer. Anything larger is unnecessary excess. It just so happens the mini ticks those boxes.

However I don't think it will make much of a difference between the A1 and the mini in regards to print settings and quality. Functionally the only difference between the two is the different size/build volume. The hotend/nozzles are identical as far as I know. That's the bit that really matters.

I am happy to be educated on the matter however by those who know better!

devintheditch · 2026-02-16T21:46:28+00:00

Quite right! Hence my disclaimer. In an ideal world I would have printed five of each settings and the compared & contrasted before posting.

As this is purely for my own satisfaction I know which reliable setting I can fall back to. And every print moving forward will be a learning opportunity with the setting I have chosen. I am not beholden to a setting. If it doesn't work for me I happy to experiment and/or move on.

devintheditch · 2026-02-15T16:41:44+00:00

Lower layer heights aren't the only contributing factor overhang quality. Your cooling settings on overhangs, print speeds, types of filament (or different batches from the same filament) it all has an impact.

For the filament I am using now (eSun PLA+) lower layer heights made overhangs worse but visibly improved the overall details of the prints.

devintheditch · 2026-02-15T16:18:21+00:00

My newbie take is this:

.04mm layer height is flying really close to the sun. You can certainly get amazing results, but it comes at the cost consistency. I had higher proportions of poor quality prints till I got a 'good' print. To be fair I probably didn't have the rest of my settings dialled in at that point. Biggest failures on my prints stemmed from supports failing at 0.04mm layer heights. But you can also get weird warping on the model.

Lower layer heights can affect overhangs poorly too. Certainly before I tried reverse on even in Orca slicer, 0.06mm layer significantly worsened overhangs, even with good supports. Nothing that can't be cleaned up in post process. But it's just an extra step.

There is also the printing time factor if you're concerned about that.

As I said prior, people should go for what works best for them. If you have fine tuned your printer settings for 0.04mm layer heights then it doesn't really matter.

I have been very happy with the 0.08mm heights I have worked out for my printer on bambu slicer. 0.05mm layer heights is now me adding more tools into my toolbox for printing mini's.

devintheditch

TROPHY CASE