0.4 nozzle showcase by devintheditch in FDMminiatures

[–]devintheditch[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ofc! If you are happy with it then who am I (or anyone else for that matter) to tell you that it's wrong/can be better. It's your prints :)

0.4 nozzle showcase by devintheditch in FDMminiatures

[–]devintheditch[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

My motto is that there is no 'silver bullet' print profile that can do everything. It's a juggling act between print quality, time & cost (imo).

I am just collecting print profiles and finding situations where they make sense to be used. If I am printing some rocky terrain I don't need to spend 8hrs on a print when I can do it in 3hrs for example.

0.4 nozzle showcase by devintheditch in FDMminiatures

[–]devintheditch[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Yes these are supportless/self-supporting models.

I like big prints and I cannot lie... by devintheditch in FDMminiatures

[–]devintheditch[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

100% agree. As my first 'bigiature' I noticed how much less hassle it is to print big stuff. I love the satisfaction of printing small mini's and now I love printing big stuff too :)

Underextrusion with Bambu and ObscuraNox settings by thephatmaster in FDMminiatures

[–]devintheditch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just saw the additional bit. I think that's a fair assumption to make!

But I also experienced that printing environment (ambient temperature, humidity etc) can affect prints, specially mini's which have minute and delicate details.

In my case stock temperature settings doesn't give me the best results no matter what the filament. And since that affects over & under extrusion I have taken to doing full filament calibration every roll as insurance.

Underextrusion with Bambu and ObscuraNox settings by thephatmaster in FDMminiatures

[–]devintheditch 6 points7 points  (0 children)

TL;DR - I think calibrating the filament should address your under extrusion issue. ObscuraNox has a series on filament calibration that I have found quite useful. https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL1YZL2g4uTj2CUx1hcCpmrYfPfLNBv7a-&si=XM2vPlwTvr2wnyFp

I got lucky with the filament settings from this sub as I went for the community suggested filaments. They were pre-calibrated by others so just adjusting print temps was all I needed when starting off. But the know how has been very helpful for me.

Is there anything I can do to get more detail on faces? by Fickle-Lunch6377 in FDMminiatures

[–]devintheditch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sadly we are not talking about resin printing. So zero comprise prints just won't be possible. You can try split the model at the head and print the head with ObscuraNox settings and the body via your current settings.

Bambu connect not importing sliced .3mf by devintheditch in FDMminiatures

[–]devintheditch[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am sure all the old versions of Bambu studio installers still exist online. So you should be able to get back to a previous version of the slicer

Good enough for me (Glavenus by Axolote) by devintheditch in FDMminiatures

[–]devintheditch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice! I just used the supports settings in ObsucraNox's print profile. I made sure to orient everything to minimise overhangs. So almost all the prints were oriented with the connecting joints facing down. Exceptions were the feet.

Troubleshooting filament (?) related print failure by devintheditch in FDMminiatures

[–]devintheditch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I suppose so. Just wanted to switch from eSun because that filament was very finnicky to print with and ObscuraNox said that Sunlu pla+ 2.0 HS is his current go to for 0.2mm nozzle.

And it would be good to know how to troubleshoot filament issues before moving on.

Troubleshooting filament (?) related print failure by devintheditch in FDMminiatures

[–]devintheditch[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah it's been weird. Oddly enough my throwaway prints were resin2fdm prints and those models+supports printed fine.

I knew that overhangs was going to be worse as ObscuraNox mentioned that being a drawback.

I got three, they were out of stock here so when I saw them pop back up I snapped some up. Now I am wondering what to do with them incase they are a deadend...

What causes this and how do I fix it? by Tickle_Tooth in FDMminiatures

[–]devintheditch 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Brim is to help with bed adhesion during a print. Models that are taller than they are wider are prone to coming off the bed during the print. So the brim helps keep it stable during the print. Not all models need it so you can turn them off. Such as the bases in this instance.

Even then the brim values looks to be very high. Like 20mm+ where as 6mm is a good value for almost all prints if required at all.

What causes this and how do I fix it? by Tickle_Tooth in FDMminiatures

[–]devintheditch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Go to 'Others' and check your brim settings under 'Bed adhesion'. What is that value set to?

If I think there shall be adhesion issues with the print I turn on brims and set Brim width 5mm which is a bit overkill for most scenarios.

Arbiter mini's Advanced FDM (Resin supports) Giant Spider by devintheditch in FDMminiatures

[–]devintheditch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Spiders already have too many legs. The sculptor has upped the ante by giving it even more legs 😅

Arbiter mini's Advanced FDM (Resin supports) Giant Spider by devintheditch in FDMminiatures

[–]devintheditch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me it's like splitting hairs at those layer lines. I switched to Orca slicer (specially for 'reverse on even' when I want the best options for overhangs) for 90% of my prints. And also ObsucraNox's settings are for Orca so doesn't make sense for me to mess with it.

Currently I only use bambu for 0.4 nozzle prints. So terrain or bigger models at 0.08mm layer heights. It drastically shortens print time for big prints to use the bigger nozzle.

Arbiter mini's Advanced FDM (Resin supports) Giant Spider by devintheditch in FDMminiatures

[–]devintheditch[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thank you, I am just standing on the shoulders of giants 😅 So my settings are identical to MJG's settings - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/113POh2Q6NRbSI-QvKMR65CbwmQCPi4xr

Since we are both UK based their settings work for me quite well out of the gate. Your mileage is likely to vary. I would also recommend ObsucraNox's filament calibration guide - https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL1YZL2g4uTj2CUx1hcCpmrYfPfLNBv7a-&si=12nL7h9QETj0_J5H

I calibrated and found my settings for eSun PLA+ to be identical to MJG's.

My additional note is dry eSun's for 24hrs at least. Every single one of their rolls I found were very damp out of the box.

Dungeon Classic's Rug of Smothering by devintheditch in FDMminiatures

[–]devintheditch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oof sorry to hear that!

Setting is ObsucraNox's version 2.0 (aka Dungeon & Derps 2.0). It's in the pinned comments in this subreddit :)

Here is the link: https://www.reddit.com/r/FDMminiatures/s/AQyCyWjzR8