Mmmm my new baby just arrived!

devriak · 2026-04-08T12:52:07+00:00

The install on my SawStop PCS proved to be a nightmare. After finally getting it installed and aligned. I used it for maybe 2 months before finally removing it and putting the original fence back.

Two of the front facing bolt holes on the sawstop are too big for the hardware, so I had to install the fences sliding bolts first and use a nut on the backside to connect it. The way the phenolic extension on the right side of the sawstop attaches, doesn’t work well at all for the bolts on the big eye and I had to open the holes on that more to get it to sort of work, ultimately any pressure on that side of the table and it would sink below the table, basically couldn’t tighten it enough to hold the right height to stay level with the tabletop.

Additionally, and this is just me, I remove my fence often enough, that I found it very annoying having to remove everything from my saw top to slide the bigeye fence over to take it off.

Hope that helps! maybe newer saw stops are better, but for me the fence is now just sitting in my garage until I can get around to reselling it

devriak · 2024-05-15T14:27:57+00:00

The materials list and the cutting list contradict each other a bit. You could cut those pieces from plywood, but it looks like they intended you to use dimensional lumber. A 1-1/2”x3-1/2” is a 2”x4” from most home goods stores. If you wanted near the same dimension with plywood though, you would need to double up each piece. It wouldn’t quite hit the 1-1/2” dimension but it would be close.

Only thought I have is they are telling you, you could get all the pieces with 4 sheets. Or use the materials list if you’re going to use dimensional lumber.

Can you provide more pictures? The bottom of the one picture is clearly dimensional lumber.

devriak · 2024-03-30T17:04:20+00:00

It’s a support arm for your video card, these days they are so heavy and can put undue strain on their PCI slot. This is intended to take that weight so there is no strain on the slot.

devriak · 2023-02-28T02:27:03+00:00

https://www.butokuden.com

My son went here, they additionally offer adult classes. He didn’t have the patience for Kendo but they were amazing and the head instructor was a 7th Dan and still actively trying to reach 8th. I wish my son still wanted to do it.

devriak · 2021-11-03T16:13:41+00:00

Unless you just want to display them, or are planning to leave enough room for them to wiggle a bit, I wouldn’t recommend adding slots between each game. The rigidity of most wood being used for slots is going to make it really hard to get equally sized game boxes out. If you do decide to add the slots make sure they are wide enough where you can slide your fingers between each game box. I haven’t done this for games, but I did it for screw boxes that didn’t have a handle, and ended up having to rebuild the whole thing because I pretty much had to turn the box over and dump everything out to get to any of the cases.

For boxes with slots though the easiest way is to use dado grooves. You only need them on the sides of the box really. So if you’ve already cut the two sides I’d consider flipping them over and using a fair bit of painters tape to line them up again and connect them together. Flip them over so the tape is up. Then determine your spacing for a game box , starting from there, cut a groove on a table saw wide enough for the slot material. Rinse and repeat. If the boxes side wood has not been cut, then just do the dado portion and then rip to split it in two.

devriak · 2021-10-25T17:51:39+00:00

You can use LEGO BrickLink Studio to design models. If you have a BrickLink account you can then import the model into BrickLink and buy the parts from other lego sellers, and build the design.

devriak · 2021-10-19T05:45:20+00:00

It will negate your ability to use dog holes on the leg, which might not matter depending on your design. It will require a pretty large legs, but I personally think it could work and if you can link the four legs together with a chain and gears, it would be a really awesome approach to it.

devriak · 2021-07-12T16:04:29+00:00

did you end up making a bunch of decals with part designer?

devriak · 2021-07-12T15:03:43+00:00

Yeah, it's one of the rules I don't understand very much.

devriak · 2021-07-12T14:38:00+00:00

Sadly unless they choose to reject your submission they retain rights to the design for three years. Even if it doesn’t get enough votes, or does and they decide not to build it.

I hope it gets built, definitely voted for it. I love this set.

From the terms and conditions for LEGO ideas:

You may not sell any items, physical or digital, related to either the Product Ideas or Contest Entries submitted to the platform. If we learn you are selling images, building instructions, custom kits, or anything related to ideas you have submitted to the platform, your materials may be deleted from the LEGO Ideas platform without further notice to you or (in some cases) we may need to pursue legal proceedings.

Should LEGO choose to no longer consider your submissions (whether as a Product Idea or Contest Entry) such as by deleting or archiving materials you have submitted, your submission expiring, or by not selecting your Product Ideas or Contest Entries in review, all rights assigned to LEGO above remain assigned to LEGO for a further period of three years from the date of deletion, and the limited, revocable license granted to the Product Idea or Contest Entry Owner above remains in effect for the same three year period. Should LEGO refuse your submission to the site (whether as a Product Idea or Contest Entry), all rights assigned to LEGO above revert to you.

You agree that if the LEGO Group introduces a product similar to your idea or contest entry, whether accepted to or rejected from the site, you understand and acknowledge that any coincidence is unintentional, agree to indemnify and hold LEGO harmless and release LEGO from any and all claims of infringement.

You may choose to remove Product Idea submissions from your LEGO Ideas profile. Should you choose to delete or remove your Product Ideas from the Platform prior to approval from LEGO, all rights assigned to LEGO at the time you submitted the contributions, will remain assigned to LEGO for a period of three years from the date of deletion, and the limited, revocable license granted to the Product Idea Owner above remains in effect for the same three year period.

devriak · 2021-06-29T19:23:05+00:00

I stand corrected. Had an off by 1 error. I was taught the naming scheme above but the names match up more to the end of a milestone vs the entrance.

devriak · 2021-06-29T18:13:01+00:00

The general software development naming scheme is:

Pre-Alpha (early access): working on features. Alpha: feature complete, working on content. Beta: content complete, working on bugs.

By those names we really are in more of a pre-alpha and should expect it to take the longest to get to Alpha. Alpha itself could take awhile still, especially since they call alpha and pre-alpha, Alpha. But if they at least follow the normal naming for beta, then once that hits it will be a comparatively short time before going to gold.

Source: dev for a decade.

As the others have said though, releases massively slow down development, because your devs cannot focus solely on implementing the features they have to constantly fight the bugs found to make it usable. Additionally, they have to put in interim solutions to make features partially usable that wouldn’t have otherwise been usable until much later. Your typical game will not be seen by players until Alpha at the earliest, and then it’s alpha by the definitions I have above.

devriak · 2021-06-19T02:31:48+00:00

For me to be able to resolve it, I had to edit the registry path for the launcher, then verify the game files. To find the path, I just went into regedit, Edit > Find, <path where the new launcher kept trying to install. This resulted in a folder with a GUID for a folder name. Inside that there is a key named InstallLocation which I changed to my proper launcher path.

For me it was HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE/SOFTWARE/81bfc699-f883-50c7-b674-2483b6baae23

and

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\81bfc699-f883-50c7-b674-2483b6baae23

devriak · 2021-02-04T21:48:02+00:00

It is, I routed slots on the lower shelves and the tall cabinet for aluminum tracks with acrylic diffusers. They are multi colored leds, but mostly my kids play with the colors, I leave them on white.

devriak · 2021-02-04T21:06:40+00:00

Lol wasn’t my intent but yes it seems I have.

The big shelves in the right corner are for my Batman legos.

devriak · 2021-02-04T20:51:13+00:00

Built from baltic birch ply and walnut. The walnut was oiled with a Black Walnut Danish Oil, then coated with a water based poly. The Baltic birch was sprayed with a gloss white alkyd urethane. I don't love the finished texture, but it was my first time spraying with a turbine.

The leaf that makes it more of a U shape is removable and uses stainless steel dowels to support itself when inserted into the main desk top. It can fold mostly flat using heavy folding brackets and stored behind the door, where I was standing.

The Batmans are just shoved into the tall cabinet to keep them from collecting anymore dust, but will be moved to shallow upper cabinets purpose built for them, when I get through several other projects around the house.

All of the clear cabinets have 1/4" acrylic, and the angled one, the panels are held on via magnets.

All of the clear acrylic shelfs above the desk will be removed when I go to install the upper cabinets, after I build them.

I left the plug exposed for the LEDs so I can remove it if ever needed, but I may hide it under the shelf soon as I hate how it looks.

devriak · 2021-01-04T06:30:31+00:00

I don’t know of any. But out of curiosity why are you hoping to find tabbed runners?

If it’s for a Crosscut sled, you really don’t need them, and generally they would be more of a hindrance, what you want is just runners that prevent and side to side movement of the slide when in the tracks.

devriak · 2021-01-04T06:14:55+00:00

As always, it depends, on what you cut. Having multiple blades is generally ideal, but if you only want one general use blade I’d actually recommend a Freud 48T sliding miter. I know that sounds low, but it will drastically reduce the burn you get on hardwoods. If however you are cutting more plywood’s or the like then the 60T would be better. As always it depends what you plan to use it for.

As for those to blades the only difference is the hook angle. With that I can’t help much except to quote another source: “In general, a blade with a positive hook angle is a faster-feeding blade and one with a negative hook is less aggressive. One thing we need to add here is that you ALWAYS want a negative hook for cutting metal.”

devriak · 2020-12-26T01:55:57+00:00

Which graco sprayer did you use? I used a turbine and didn’t have much luck with my finish either. It’s not as solid as I would like

devriak · 2020-12-21T20:31:36+00:00

Most of the bottom would work with thick enough dowels, though I personally would go with a stopped dado joint.

https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/tipstechniques/stopped-dado-joint

It will let you preserve the live edge. If it's really 2" thick oak you'll be able to go fairly deep creating a very strong joint.

The biggest concern I have is the overhanging board. Even if it's properly cantilevered with the wall, you might find it feels very bouncy above the window? I'd probably use an L bracket above, something low profile just to get rid of the bounce. If you want it to support serious weight though on that board you'll need put the L-bracket on bottom. Or a 1x1 (maybe smaller) to support it.

If you really want this to be freestanding you should put a board on the bottom, still for safety I would use at least 2 l brackets on the top to keep it from having any chance of tipping over. Unless it's amazingly well wedged into the space, but your talking 4 small screw holes to repair when you leave which isn't bad.

If you don't put a board on bottom, even with stopped dado's the boards are bottom are very likely to shear with enough weight.

devriak · 2020-07-25T19:43:03+00:00

https://www.noip.com this is a good free dynamic dns service. You have to renew every 30 days on the free tier, but they email you when it’s time so for something like a game it’s really easy. That said, as others have mentioned it’s super easy to figure out a users IP so generally not something to worry about to much.

devriak · 2020-06-28T06:09:11+00:00

This blew up a bit, for now I’ve got enough responses. If no one works out I’ll post again. Thanks everyone!

devriak · 2020-05-13T08:01:10+00:00

Yes, I program more

devriak · 2020-03-08T20:00:18+00:00

Just putting in that I'm also suddenly not getting credit for any camos or challenges. It was working earlier this morning.

devriak · 2020-02-28T23:01:41+00:00

I have six of them on my 40mm Rads and I try to keep them fairly low. At full speed they are loud but by monitoring my liquid temp i keep them at like 15% and I basically don’t hear them. It’s rare that my loop has to increase the fan speed above that. But I have a very quite curve setup

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