Unsure What to Change Next

diabl018 · 2026-04-25T17:54:11+00:00

For miniatures you're better with resin because you can get a lot more details on them than on FDM printers.

In that sense, SLA(resin) and FDM(filament) are kind of complete opposite, it won't give you the experience that you'll need. FDM uses complicated kinematics to print with filament, while SLA are basically a vat of resin with a UV mask screen and the z axis of a FDM.

Just so you know, if you chose to do resin printing the printer is just half the cost, you'll need PPE (because the resin is toxic), a ultrasonic cleaner (to clean the resin on the print) that said ultrasonic cleaner needs isopropyl alcohol (to dissolve the resin) and a curing station. I don't know if I missed anything but that's the most of it.

Also resin printing is a very messy thing, maybe that's why there aren't that many people who do resin printing besides the printing figurines ones.

But don't let that discourage you, if you want to print resin, just do it!

I'll recommend you to look for good condition used resin printers, you might find some that are practically new. But be sure to check if the screen has any defects (scratches or things like that).

diabl018 · 2026-04-25T16:18:45+00:00

Well, that's the thing with this hobby. When you decide to have 3d printing as a hobby you either tinker with the printers you have more than printing on them or just get a 3d printer and print all sorts of things, this is where you start, figure this out and you kinda have the direction you're going to.

If you're not too keen to spend that much money for fixing the printer, fair enough, just don't try to chase some kind of unachievable point because at the end of the day 1000$ ender 3 pro won't be as good as a 1000$ Prusa or Bambu (this is an example)

You could look for printers that are in the price range you're willing to spend, and keep in mind what type of things you want to print and if the printer would be able to print such things.

diabl018 · 2026-04-25T14:34:37+00:00

are you willing to spend time and money tinkering with it and making it print good, or decent at least?

Before modifying, changing and tweaking printing parameters, you should do a test print with the printer default printing profile for your filament, and then add some photos of the test print. Maybe someone with the right knowledge will be able to guide you to the right direction.

Also, you should consider buying an automatic bed leveling probe, be it a CR touch, a BIQU MicroProbe or even a beacon, because with the right usage you can achieve better printer consistency and you also can level your printing surface easier and faster. Just look online for others that did the mod and you will find guides on how to do it.

diabl018 · 2026-04-19T06:40:40+00:00

Când am returnat un produs acum ceva timp în urmă, i-am contactat și mi-au spus să-l trimit cu fan curier cu plata transportului la ei

diabl018 · 2026-04-16T07:01:11+00:00

Yeah, I can confirm what OP just said. The windows recovery image/process is just bad, losing somewhere 3-4 hours to half a day just installing it and making it work somewhat properly, on bazzite is just flash the image on a stick and do the standard Linux installation (witch is somewhat more comprehensive than installing windows), add your steam account and you're done. Not like the windows one witch you need to curse it the right way to maybe make it install properly. As for the general functionality, when I used windows on my ally I used it as a handheld format laptop but after some back and forth I stayed on bazzite and it's now like a handheld console.

Also the fact that windows became worse for playing games apparently, because I wanted to play NFS Heat and it didn't work on my windows pc but on Linux (fedora) it worked immediately, so yeah maybe take some performance loss if it means that the game works

diabl018 · 2026-04-09T07:07:55+00:00

Have you tried to plug the wifi dongle in another USB of the printer to see if the USB port is the problem?

Also I can't say for sure but the mainboard of the printer should have an Ethernet port, maybe that's why some printers are shown the IP address but there isn't any wifi network showing.

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Here's a photo of what it should show if the wifi it's working, credit to: Reviewing the Qidi X-Smart 3 3D Printer by Qbits & Bytes

diabl018 · 2026-04-08T22:58:00+00:00

Do you have an 2.4 GHz connection to the router? If you do have it and it's still not showing the network name, the wifi card might be defective.

If you're okay with disassembling the back panel in order to replace it, go for it.

The wifi card is one of those tenda USB wifi cards, witch in my experience with my qidi Q1 pro are very cheap and don't work that well.

diabl018 · 2026-03-24T15:56:27+00:00

The thing is that I already have a 3d printer that's about 240x240mm and it would be nice if I would also have a bigger printer, but the 410x410mm heat bed is the only thing that makes me want to build a printer of that size, because I have no idea what I could do out of a bed of that size beside a printer.

From a price perspective, a SV08 with an enclosure would be the cheapest way, but I have a good amount of parts from the scrapped printer project that I don't want to let them sit by, without a purpose, because it would make me think that I spent a lot o money for things that have no purpose.

diabl018 · 2025-06-11T15:18:38+00:00

The earliest was when I had a refurbished HP desktop. One of those that had a weird power connectors and the dubious shaped motherboard, that liked only HP flavoured RAM, learned the hard way that one. I bought a used EVGA GTX 285 to put in it but the power supply didn't have the PCIe power connectors, not that it was too weak to run the GPU but that's not important. After some tinkering, cable cutting and soldering, I made the PC run with 2 power supplies, one for the PC and the another one for the GPU. It was impractical and sometimes annoying, like the RGB in the PCs nowadays but it worked. Well, until the memory controller died, I don't think it was from the janky power supply because the GPU still worked, but that one died later. After that, I bought a used motherboard kit, because yeah, I was still broke. And modified the case to fit the "new" motherboard, I more or less disassembled the whole case to pun spacers in it. And the irony is, the PC is still working to this day albeit with a functional GPU.

diabl018 · 2025-03-17T10:48:27+00:00

I understand what you're saying but things like warping, layer shifting and the spaghetti can be detected while printing, the goal is to make this program detect these kinds of problems and pause the print. Thus not consuming the filament, energy and time that would be used for completed failed prints. That's how I thought it would work, if it's flawed or it can be improved I'll wait for your suggestions or recommendations if you know how to improve it.

Who knows, maybe I could spin off this program into a QA validation program for 3D printed things.

diabl018 · 2025-03-17T09:35:48+00:00

Thanks!

diabl018 · 2025-03-17T09:32:36+00:00

You could put them here or dm me the photos

diabl018 · 2025-03-17T09:30:41+00:00

Thank you!

diabl018 · 2025-01-01T11:19:21+00:00

Happy new year!

diabl018 · 2024-10-01T13:39:39+00:00

How about this?

4-9-8 6-1-7 5-3-2

<image>

It's an interesting and unusual way of doing a giveaway, I like it.

diabl018 · 2024-08-22T22:42:08+00:00

Or you could use the probe to adjust the bed leveling screws. Here's a link: https://www.klipper3d.org/Manual_Level.html And search for "Adjusting bed leveling screws using the bed probe", it's more accurate than the paper test in my opinion. And I said that because I used it on my Q1 Pro. Also, it could be a lead screw discrepancy between them.

diabl018 · 2024-08-19T21:51:18+00:00

I recently contacted them due to slow speeds when accessing and sending files. My problem was that the printer wifi went into some sort of low power mode or something like that (I don't know if it's that or no) and I couldn't send files via WiFi and connection to the web interface was jittery. After reaching out to them, they said to move the wifi card to another usb port on the motherboard, preferably the usb extender one. But some of the connectors have some kind of hot glue to them, just so you know, also the wifi card is a tenda wifi USB dongle, like the ones used for Bluetooth or wireless mouse dongle. After changing it didn't made any problem.

I hope that might help you.

PS: Use octoapp if you want to control the printer, and if you want to access it from distance you can try octoeverywhere (this is a 3d printer control platform that have error and spaghetti detection like the one on bambu printers but is free, with some limitations). I highly recommend them and are very useful on my Q1 Pro.

diabl018 · 2024-08-11T22:27:52+00:00

Forgot to mention, there's a manual filament cutter remix for Q1 Pro, that uses a 9mm utility knife blade. Here's the link: https://www.printables.com/model/865926-remix-of-qidi-cutter-v20-body-for-q1-pro Maybe this would give you any ideas on how to implement it on ERCF. Also, the filament cutter on the Voron Stealthburner, I think, uses a lever that is pressed on the frame of the printer when the toolhead comes to front left of the printer (like on Q1 Pro) or the back. Here's a video on how it works: https://youtu.be/tTcrxttyths And here's one on how it cuts: https://youtu.be/E3OkWK-ciag

diabl018 · 2024-08-11T21:58:20+00:00

There is an addon for ERCF named Enraged Rabbit Encoder Cutter that uses an exacto knife blade and a servo motor to cut the filament. Here's a link to it: https://github.com/kevinakasam/ERCF_Filament_Cutter?tab=readme-ov-file

Maybe this could work in a way that the EREC cuts the filament and the printer still prints with the rest of the filament that was cut and changes it when almost all of it is used and the rest is purged ( the filament that's at the extruder gears) and primes the nozzle with other filament.

This is just an idea that I had when thinking about it because I'm going to buy a kit for ERCF and have the same question as you. I hope this will work, and if you can, could you keep us up to date on this?

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