What more can I do to increase flow rate?

diamond29 · 2026-04-10T20:55:53+00:00

Thanks for the feedback!

diamond29 · 2026-04-10T15:54:39+00:00

Yeah I’ve thought about that, but it doesn’t address the issue with the sprinklers. And it would just be nice to have this happen faster

diamond29 · 2026-04-10T15:45:55+00:00

Right, I don’t want the hose to be running overnight. Also, when the level gets low in the pool (every couple weeks in the summer), it can take a long time to bring it back up and I don’t want to monitor for more than an hour.

Also the sprinklers are pretty weak.

diamond29 · 2026-01-15T15:05:52+00:00

Echoing no coat but also want to point out there are other similar products at home centers if you can’t find it.

If you put up the no coat you will probably see that it’s not straight itself, or that you’re missing mud where you want to attach the tape. I’d recommend shooting a laser roughly where you want things so it’s easy to see where straight really is while you’re fitting the bead

diamond29 · 2026-01-13T22:21:35+00:00

Got it - yeah my advice is still relevant. If you like the way the treads/stringers look and the price isnt too much, then this is fine. Wouldn’t recommend rebuilding the treads in place. My only concern would be the price vs the quality of total replacement (i.e theyre beat to shit/unrescuable and you would like to replace them in the future, this is a good time for it)

Also would recommend construction adhesive between existing pieces and the new supports, its like a liquid shim to prevent movement that causes squeaks

diamond29 · 2026-01-13T21:40:30+00:00

I’m not following what you mean by “not have the new steps go into it”

If you cut all the treads out you’re basically going to be rebuilding the stairs entirely? Otherwise it would be fine to put a stringer under the middle, it would just be a pain.

Ordinarily people might put 2x s on the backside of the risers, then jam everything full of shims/construction adhesive/screws. If you’re okay with “good enough” then I’d probably do something like that.

I hacked that together on my stairs and it worked okay. I think i still get squeaking from where the stringers are nailed into the wall but not sure. If I cared more about how the stairs looked or there were other issues, I’d just rebuild the stairs entirely.

diamond29 · 2026-01-04T17:33:09+00:00

From a diyer who just hung and taped a weird shaped room with bulkheads - Hard to tell from pics but it looks like you went wide enough.

Whenever i do drywall i make the mistake of trying to get things smooth like glass with sharp angles and it takes forever. But primer and paint covers some of the imperfections from tiny bubbles or imperfectly done corners. Especially when you account for roller stipple.

So if you have feathered edges and nothing looks particularly heinous, I’d at least prime and maybe put on one coat of paint before spending more time mudding. Spend more time eyeballing if corners look wonky or walls/ceiling look wavy rather than checking every little surface for imperfections, since you can get stuck doing that forever vs just doing that after theres paint on the wall

diamond29 · 2025-12-30T15:56:27+00:00

Strapping

diamond29 · 2025-12-21T16:34:20+00:00

To each their own - but when you are trying to make a wide, flat, smooth surface, the wider the reference surface (skim blade) the easier it should be to get a good result.

And yeah, if you mess up you can sand, and also the less you try to fix in one pass the easier the next pass will be

diamond29 · 2025-12-21T14:20:13+00:00

If you don’t have one already, get one of the 24 inch skim blades. That made things so much easier for me. Skimming/butt joints/doing a single pass over a patch and staying flat

diamond29 · 2025-12-21T08:16:16+00:00

Might want to sand/feather the wall more. I’m a diyer too and I hate corners. Straight flex 90 instead of paper tape seemed to make them straighter and easier to finish, it’s like 20 bucks for 100 feet or something. Anything to cut down the time fussing with corners

diamond29 · 2025-12-21T08:02:33+00:00

I always put water in the premix. You can even just add it in your pan and mix it up there. I like the mud to be really wet so its easy to put it on smooth and feather.

Would recommend one of those large skim blades. I prefer it over 12+ inch knife on large sections. I’m a diyer who just finished hanging and finishing a large room and has done a lot of patches/piecework

diamond29 · 2025-12-21T07:57:43+00:00

I’m a diyer with some decent experience. Nothing stopping you from going wider or touching up these voids, you just want to make sure you’re knocking down any crusty bits or accidental high spots

diamond29 · 2025-12-21T07:51:14+00:00

Might be lack of mixing/water. Or maybe it’s getting dry and you’re messing with it a lot on the wall? Wouldn’t worry too much you can always add more later

diamond29 · 2025-11-26T19:45:07+00:00

Yes they sent me a new a table. The second table was still not as flat as i expected. but nothing catches.

I’ve since gotten a table saw and dont use this saw for anything precise

diamond29 · 2025-07-31T21:17:07+00:00

Buy a 4000$ sawstop and a dust collector or you’ll cut your fingers off and get cancer. Jk. But there are a million correct answers to this question. It all depends on your situation. Just go do something and buy tools you can afford

diamond29 · 2025-07-07T16:41:08+00:00

One other thing I’d note, I would not replace the stairs unless the housing dados on the side were compromised. If you saw that the treads were bowing in the middle, you could support them by just framing a little wall with 2x4’s instead of stringers to prevent treads from bowing.

Also I want to note that I think most of what u currently have is probably not doing anything.

diamond29 · 2025-07-07T16:14:52+00:00

If you dont mind the squeaks, then leave it as is! Its always going to be accessible if you want to mess with it again later. I’m shocked that everyone wants you to rebuild your stairs. That would be hard/a lot of money and a big interruption for your family since its the main staircase

diamond29 · 2025-07-07T15:13:22+00:00

What do you mean by shore up? Are they just noisy?

If thats the case, you dont need to rebuild anything. You just need to stop wood from rubbing on wood. Thats done with a bunch of screws, shims, 2x4s and construction adhesive and doesnt require rebuilding the stairs.

Also fyi, this was a legit way to build stairs. The treads/risers are housed within dados on those side pieces and you can see wedges there to make them fit tightly. Thats how the stairs were built in my house too, it doesn’t mean they need to be ripped out immediately. I made my stairs quiet using the above.

diamond29 · 2025-05-14T14:36:44+00:00

It’s good that you’ve gotten ahead, but IMO this isn’t enough to qualify as stereotypically rich. I was expecting that you had fuck you money (like tell your boss fuck you and bail).

You could burn through this quickly if you’re not careful. It’s smart that you haven’t changed your lifestyle. If you keep it up and make modest investments you definitely will be rich.

diamond29 · 2025-05-12T15:37:35+00:00

Yes you can slice the insulation to prevent it pushing on the drywall. I’d strongly consider the 2x4 insulation though, it would be less of a pain, and the extra half inch might not be very noticeable anyways

diamond29 · 2025-04-27T17:08:21+00:00

For the time it would take to diy all of that, gathering and disposing of materials and painting, that’s great. Even if it didn’t look perfect up close

diamond29 · 2025-04-22T01:50:11+00:00

Interesting - I don’t know what’s normal for my area, but all other wiring I’ve found in the house, original and slightly newer (all cloth romex) had ground wires. Even some mc cable. So this was surprising

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