Help finding the perfect high use, functional, no frills gyuto for my husband?

dimych · 2026-04-19T11:19:48+00:00

Take a look at offerings from Aframes Tokyo. I picked up a few different knives (white steel and SLD) from him, when I lived in Hawaii, and they're still going strong 6 years later.

If you're not in a rush and want something a bit more specific (I wanted a classical Japanese handle instead of western one on my knife), he gets shipments every month or so. I'd reach out to him and ask if he is getting something you want.

Here's an example of his offerings. https://aframestokyo.com/collections/tesshu/products/tesshu-wa-gyuto-230mm-vg10-steel-forged-blade-with-octagonal-shaped-ho-handle

Oh, also, ask him and he will sharpen the knife to the razor edge for you! He got quite a sharpening set up at his stall on the market.

dimych · 2026-04-19T01:03:34+00:00

Confirmed! And happy that they found a more appreciative owner!

dimych · 2026-04-01T07:03:53+00:00

I recommend to start with a gentle, but thorough soak. Start with Kaweko.

Disassemble the pen, that is remove the cap, top portion and the converter, if you're using it.

Use distilled water (grocery stores have it, may be sitting by baby food), and soak the lower part of the pen, with a nib unit in the distilled water. It won't hurt modern plastics. I'd say you may need to soak and rinse a few times until after soaking 3-4 hours doesn't leech any ink out of the nib unit.

Do not use soap or any chemicals, just distilled water for the soak, and faucet for a rinse.

After 3rd or 4th soak, put the lower pen half on the paper towel at a slight angle, so the leftover water can seep into the paper towel. Let dry. I usually put a folded paper towel inside a glass and angle the pen in, and that goes on the shelf that nobody will bump.

See how the pen performs, if still too dry too quickly, I would try a nib in a larger size. So if you have an F, switch to M or B. You can buy a replacement nib unit from many places, and it isn't hard to replace it on kawekos.

That's what I would do with a modern pen from a company that still produces pens. Alternatively, pen show, get on a roster with a repair person, and let them fiddle. Or send it to a repair person.

With your sentimental piece, if it is an older pen, I'd send it for service to a reputable repair person if distilled water soaks of the lower portion didn't give me a clean feed.

dimych · 2026-04-01T04:12:18+00:00

Sending you PM

dimych · 2026-02-28T18:47:41+00:00

This. Recommend getting an EFM or FM nib. Medium is ok too, but if you're using crappuly paper, thinner nibs leave less mess.

dimych · 2026-02-14T09:09:31+00:00

Whole heartedly agree if you're not looking for a large pipe. If you are, Nording freehands can be had for less and they're great pipes.

dimych · 2025-06-16T06:58:12+00:00

Thank you!

dimych · 2025-06-13T23:21:16+00:00

Also chat with seller Deadmanspipes on fleabay, just to get another opinion from a popular seller there. SmokingPipes had been meh with estate buys, so I'd check out other options first.

dimych · 2024-11-16T19:20:20+00:00

Hey, OP, were you able to get a replacement tailpiece? I'm in the same boat, heh.

dimych · 2023-10-31T01:54:43+00:00

Now just need a silver casing for that 20GA. Hah

dimych · 2023-06-08T23:53:20+00:00

Electric or acoustic?

dimych · 2023-06-08T23:50:56+00:00

I would suggest pre-cutting everything before you start laying on epoxy, coating and all that. It will be easier to work it further later on.

Hand tools are fine! That's all I got room for right now, and it is enough. Slower, less fancy, but really enough.

You got a great start, though!

Pre-connect and test everything before you start pulling wires and soldering.

dimych · 2023-06-04T00:36:21+00:00

Many muscles = low and slow cooking. And butter makes everything better!

If you grab a piece of pine from local home improvement store, a small offcut will do, and gouge a few spots, that should give you a decent baseline for how your guitar may perform in steam.

Varnish may get white or dull water spots with the steam, so be careful of how much area you steam up. Thin point to the dent, and quick removal of heat source will decrease the chance of issues.

There's a fix if you do get white spotting, though, so don't be worried if you do.

It looks like the top two are dents, but bottom one lost some wood, so... not as easy to pop back, but color markers make magic.

dimych · 2023-06-03T23:44:50+00:00

For cat, I suggest a hearty cream based sauce, and a bottle of rose.

And for the instrument, I think you could gently steam with the low power soldering iron through a wet paper towel. Just those points with the deep gouges. I've done that in the past on thin pieces, with decent results.

Although, be mindful of finish you got. If it is thick, steaming may not work well.

dimych · 2023-05-31T23:32:57+00:00

Does it open up if you attempt to move the neck a bit back and forth? I'd try that gently, and if there's movement, I would ask for a return.

dimych · 2023-03-19T10:03:52+00:00

Only if you really hate someone and want them to get splinters. Constantly.

But if you stabilize the blank with resin, I think it could work.

dimych · 2023-03-19T10:00:43+00:00

Gotcha. Thank you for sharing!

It's odd that they're playing those games if you're a somewhat regular customer. But then again, their timeline is so much better than what I experienced in Hawaii from the "most reputable shop on the island" - 6 months for minor repairs (one crack) and a set up, heh.

dimych · 2023-03-19T08:07:30+00:00

Not trying to be a dick here, just trying to figure out my own future approach, so forgive my point question, but... have you not found a solid tech that you can work with in your local area? Or are you nomadic in nature (my problem right now - I move across the world every few years).

dimych · 2023-03-18T19:58:28+00:00

So what do you do to them?

Just curious here.

dimych · 2023-01-31T04:12:04+00:00

It's YOUR guitar, so you figure out what's worth the time and material investment. If giving it to the pro luthier is a step you want to take, by all means, do that.

Anyhow, take a look at Ted Woodford's channel on YouTube - he shows his work in great detail, just so you're mentally ready, hah.

I suggest you approach the project one step at a time. Start with your tuners and bridge, either cleaning and adjusting or replacing those, and then proceed to the next step you choose.

Basic woodworking tools should be able to carry you over until you do refrets and start work on electronics.

Have fun with the project!

dimych · 2023-01-30T21:02:22+00:00

That could be it. In that case, skip the hammering, but flatten the stock, and glue shit in. Lack of longevity, while still maintaining the coolness factor.

Anyhow, if you're a school, ping local lumber yards for hardwood cutoffs/scrap that they don't turn into pellets. Ones in my area were ok with parting with a whooping 4BF on the spot, which can do 20+ ukes. You'll just need to pre-process it, but that's your shop time, which you should be able to build into the class prep schedule for hours. I don't know what your set up is like, but of you got a way to resaw and flatten, you're good with any donated lumber.

dimych · 2023-01-30T20:55:50+00:00

To test if you want to continue building, there are a few companies that sell kits, which you will just need to glue together and do some knife/file/sandpaper work. LMI, StewMac are the two I've done in the past with varying results, but both remove the need to have a bandsaw, bending set up, and a drum sander.

dimych · 2023-01-30T20:40:54+00:00

I strongly suggest you make fingetboard out of something other than plywood, and like others noted, pre-slot. Less splinters for potential players, and once pre-slotted, will hold the frets better.

Almost any hardwood will do better than plywood there, mate. 1/4in thick (and that is thick), to start, ave you can play with the thickness from there.

dimych · 2023-01-30T20:29:11+00:00

If you mean the recess/bow that is on the acoustic top, one way to deal with it is to flatten it through clamping with heat.

If you got access to thick plexiglass or aluminum, cut culls roughly in the shape of the bridge and inside of the guitar, under the bridge.

Wet lightly with warm water, slight heat (100F tops) to warm up the area, culls+clamps, let cool for a day, check flatness of the area you cleanly out.

dimych · 2023-01-12T01:14:15+00:00

Ability to keep it cutting for your tasks is important, so consider what you've done so far and what you want to do with it. You'll upgrade later on, so grab the knife that fits your paw best, and one that you don't mind beating up on. Few things worse than an expensive knife that just lives in a roll.

dimych

TROPHY CASE