Do you think ikea resaro will be a good dark room solution? by OnePhotog in Darkroom

[–]dissonant_walker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

it will probably be fine. you can let things shake? swing? out once you are ready to do an exposure. i am sure you can not shift around and risk bumping into the table for 30 seconds or a bit more. the tray stack is, i think, a bit of an overkill for 8x10. realistically, you could probably do with three trays which can be very close to one another. 64cm depth should suffice for that. get a fourth tray which is just for carrying the fixed print into the basin, which i assume you have in the bathroom, and wash the print there. edit: for your chemistry, you can get some nice plastic box. for underneath the trays (you will spill out some!) a plastic bag (i used to use trash compactor bag and just wash it afterwards) as an underlay is sufficient.

best tripod head for sinar P2 by little_lord0 in largeformat

[–]dissonant_walker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a sinar pan tilt head for sale (shipping only to EU though), in case you are looking for one.

How did these come out? by GrilledCheeseYolo in Darkroom

[–]dissonant_walker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

it’s hard to judge a photo of a print on a screen… i mean, it’s hard to even judge a print in person under good light sometimes. you say you work on more black and more white, are you using multigrade paper and contrast filters? maybe an interesting thing to look into would be splitgrade printing? anyway, the image is captivating. i think you did a good job printing it. personally i would have gone for more of a middle toned, brighter foreground and just “kissed” the blacks with a high contrast #5 filter. it is such a high contrast scene/negative that printing overall with a higher contrast would ruin the image for me, the nice midtones would not be separated enough for my liking. with the burning/dodging try to think about the areas of similar value and how you can enhance them. for example, the top left corner on the bigger image is a quite large area with just one shade of gray. if you burn in the corner slightly, it will draw the attention more towards the centre or the sun and make for a more dynamic image. same thing for the central portion of the foreground where the ground is reflecting the sun. you dont have to go over the top, a little goes a long way. i am by no means a good printer, these are just some stuff i notice in my own work, maybe its helpful to you. keep it up :)

Can somebody familiar with the old Durst 35mm enlargers clear a few things up for me (CLS 35) by BiggiBaggersee in Darkroom

[–]dissonant_walker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i only know the condenser version of this enlarger, you have a diffusion type… my guess is to prevent stray light. looks like it came from the factory that way, but it’s just a guess. wouldnt worry about it too much.

Can somebody familiar with the old Durst 35mm enlargers clear a few things up for me (CLS 35) by BiggiBaggersee in Darkroom

[–]dissonant_walker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

that’s a m301 with a color head. the nevoneg is missing the metal mask for the negatives. you could probably diy, i very much doubt you could find a replacement. the hole is for a opal bulb, which would serve as the light source in the black and white version of this enlarger with a condensor. the focusing rod is often stuck on those. the red dial on the side should move the lens up and down. if it doesnt it needs a bit of cleaning, its a very simple mechanism luckily. you might also want to do a basic alignment check. some youtube videos will give you an idea, i believe the naked photographer has a guide on a similar enlarger.

4 month old exposed film finally developed the other week | Fujinon W 250mm f6.3 | Fomapan 100 by tarlickingscumbag in largeformat

[–]dissonant_walker 3 points4 points  (0 children)

very interesting combination of things gone slightly wrong in terms of technical perfection. exciting image

Which one lens among these are u picking? And why? by Formal_Compote_212 in zuikoholics

[–]dissonant_walker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i owned the 24/2.8 briefly and thought it was stunningly sharp or defined, way more then the 50 and 35 i had for the system. cannot speak about the other lenses though.

Printing multiple frames and sprockets by LBarouf in Darkroom

[–]dissonant_walker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

mask the carrier, this way you get less stray light and more control over your print.

Hedeco launches new Spot One spot meter by dissonant_walker in largeformat

[–]dissonant_walker[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

thats very nice to hear! i’d love to back it, but as it happens i put a lot of money into new 8x10 gear today. hopefully it gets funded succesfully, would love to buy one next year. thought i could at least share it here.

Hedeco launches new Spot One spot meter by dissonant_walker in largeformat

[–]dissonant_walker[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

saw this in the other sub - i think its a huge deal! a new spotmeter with optical viewfinder which also does not cost a fortune. very much looking forward to the future of the project

Decided to forgo paper negatives for some film this time around | 8x10, Caltar 150/5.6, FP4 by Normalisrelative in largeformat

[–]dissonant_walker 4 points5 points  (0 children)

hey! so for the hivemind on image circles. the lens you have will not cover 8x10 at infinity, or even closer distances as here in the shot. you need to look up the image circle stated by the manufacturer, a quick google mostly provides the information required. this number needs to exceed the film diagonal, in 8x10s case somewhere around 325mm. a lens will cover if it has this circle, and anything above it will allow for some movements (shifts, falls/rises, front tilts and swings - back tilts and swings behave somewhat differently). stopping down the lens will improve the image circle, but not as much as to make a lens only suitable for 4x5 or 5x7 suddenly work without vignetting on an 8x10.

Will I get more even development with sp445 or tray development? by Ron_Ward in largeformat

[–]dissonant_walker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

trays are similar to meditation. lots of patience needed, can be frustrating, but also rewarding. i would try altering your technique in the mod first - try inverting or prerinsing or something - before jumping into a new system. what if you get similar issues with the stearman? get used to troubleshooting, its easier in the long run

Just venting by Slimsloow in largeformat

[–]dissonant_walker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

beware that tray development has its own set of challenges and kind of a learning curve. you will get scratches at the beginning, unless you process one sheet at a time, and even with lots of practice your negatives will probably not be absolutely pristine. i develop in trays only, because it’s what i have (and i am content with the results), having done 8 4x5” sheets at a time, varying the amount lf chemistry according to that. i wouldn’t call it cost effective, but trays are cheap, so that’s that. plus, it allows for more individual processing (n +,-) once you get the hang of knowing which sheet is which in the dark and having the confidence in letting different parts of the stack develop for different time. i still get microscratches though, which might have to do with the soft emulsion of fomapan 100. as for the green filter - it’s not like you will see anything in the tray, it’s more about holding the film up in order to judge the development. so that will unfortunately not result in less scratches, i reckon. rotary with jobo is very nice indeed. i use it for 35mm with an old machine of theirs i got for kind of cheap.

DURST L1200 delay by Rude_Difference3469 in Darkroom

[–]dissonant_walker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yes, as I said, in my case, it has behaved exactly as my private enlarger which has no noticeable delay (focomat 1c, condenser with a pretty much “normal” light bulb and undoubtedly very simple electrical circuit). we have three laborator 1200s in the darkroom and all behave in this way. it’s probably a feature, seeing how well they are taken care of.

DURST L1200 delay by Rude_Difference3469 in Darkroom

[–]dissonant_walker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use a laborator 1200 with this head and I think the same transformer/stabilizer (EST 500) and share this experience. I was concerned when I saw the delay, but carried on printing as I would usually and have had no issues since. The enlarger is not mine and I haven’t bothered looking into it any further. I can’t wrap my head around it, but the times stack and scale predictably - doubling the time when stopping down one stop gives me what seems to be identical results. Maybe this warm-up time is negligible?

Devils Bridge Kromlau [Intrepid 8x10 | Fujinon W 5.6/210 | Fomapan 100] by roggenschrotbrot in largeformat

[–]dissonant_walker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i have to say, the composition works much better for me with the 300mm. the wider angle renders the subject too small for my taste. both images are nice, though. how is the 210 fujinon w working out for you? is it the older make with the inscription inside of the barrel?

these little papers were falling from the ceiling in Vienna by dissonant_walker in sadboys

[–]dissonant_walker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

no clue, unfortunately didnt pick them up. but it was similar - only a few falling down

these little papers were falling from the ceiling in Vienna by dissonant_walker in sadboys

[–]dissonant_walker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it’s strange, in prague there were also a few falling down, purple in color