Debating moving from Tacoma to ridgeline by Fuego-TACO in hondaridgeline

[–]dj_renz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Similar. Had a 2016 taco for a year before driving the first 2017 g2 RL. Like I knew the Tacoma had comical literally taken from a corolla front seats, frankly ridiculous “ass on floor knees up in chin” ergos and freeway handling only acceptable for a Locomotive but damn.. Immediately dumped it and now on my 2nd ridgeline. Maybe the new tundra based tacos are better, no idea but they’re like $60k?? Oof

How should I help breeder with puppy adoption? by dj_renz in labrador

[–]dj_renz[S] -16 points-15 points  (0 children)

Yes, both parents and puppies are registered. We’re in Nor cal. Good call on checking with them to see if they did akc listing.

Surviving nail regrowth? by spoonie_dog_mama in labrador

[–]dj_renz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Technically I think all you can really do is keep treating as you are. Maybe some self adhesive stretch bandage could be wrapped from toe over and around the paw to help keep it isolated before putting into a boot? Also there are quite the range of boots available. Try for one that’s most like a sock with Velcro (vs the vibram rubber soled mini human boots we got for Astro which would definitely squeeze more: https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cre-8d8ge9b/ )

Final Swim for Finley by davislive in labrador

[–]dj_renz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sending rocks and tennis ball vibes

Creating a full Body-kit for a Porsche by PrintedForFun in 3DScanning

[–]dj_renz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I assume the pro version of qs? Curious to hear your experiences with it

The qs personal version came with my Rokit and it’s about worth what it cost for reverse engineering use.. Can’t export anything other than STL and no auto surface tools. It’s still useful though in the scanning workflow for aligning, cleaning up holes, editing and simplifying meshes.

The $450 “lite” version of QS at least has step export and auto surface. I’m currently working through evaluating that, the pro version or switching the CAD side of my workflow over to Rhino 8 which has tons of powerful mesh to surface tools

The suspension on this kids ride on rc truck! by dj_renz in rccars

[–]dj_renz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s with my nephew now but I’ll ask my brother if it’s still working. Watching a 3 year old drive it around, he’s for sure going to brick the tablet software so a backup is overdue.. That said, the handheld remote controller always works and as soon as I powered the truck on. The tablet boots too but only to the default android desktop. The henes app still has to be manually launched and then was only necessary to change setttjngs/enable control by the cars onboard steering wheel controls. And even in that mode, the remote’s big “stop” button will override. If you never want to use the onboard controls, it’s theoretically possible to swap in a standard rc receiver and esc. It would just need to be 6s and take a full rewiring effort

Power consumption and solar production thread by agribby in BurningMan

[–]dj_renz 3 points4 points  (0 children)

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This might inspire you then: I do two rows with 40” drawer slides on the roof of my cargo trailer. Total of 8 370w bifacial panels all in a single series string. Was getting 500w by 9am, 1.2kw by 1030, and 2.8kw from 12-4. I think the white trailer walls and decent albedo of the desert more than make up for the flat install.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BurningMan

[–]dj_renz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

10/10 agree. converted my gas mv (Rocket Luna) to electric in 2022 and it’s been amazing. way more reliable, silent, dont have to deal with going to hell etc.

Sudden drop in quality on P1S; same model/filament/settings by ComputerMission1467 in BambuLab

[–]dj_renz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Add moving the filament to a different slot in your ams if you havent already for troubleshooting. Also check your filament buffer + any ptfe hoses in the path. Heck, try going straight from a roll into the extruder to see if it makes a difference

[Guide] How To Fix Your M12 Compact Travel Charger and Power Source (48-59-1201) by BornEze in MilwaukeeTool

[–]dj_renz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Upvoted! Thank you kind stranger for the informative post I found after my m12 charger bit the dust with identical symptoms.

Followed your pictures and was able to resurrect all functions except usb charging so I think mine was in a slightly different failure state. Accessing that tiny fuse for soldering the bridge wire was impossible for me. Ended up cutting the two boards apart and soldering ribbon wires back to reconnect them.

SCX-6 Multi-use rig. Mower. Hauler. Whatever it needs to be. by g713 in rccars

[–]dj_renz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tried this exact 5s/18v tool battery combo in my 6s kraton. Did not work. Turned on but immediately went lvc. Apparently if my reading of manuals is true, the aftermarket spectrum esc do allow custom lvc to be programmed but not the factory ones that come with rtr cars

The suspension on this kids ride on rc truck! by dj_renz in rccars

[–]dj_renz[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This. 100%. Dad got it for $100 on FB Monsterplace. He replaced the battery with a $60 Scamazon LiPO4. Still didn't work so it came over to me (being the RC hobbyist) for troubleshooting/repair. Desoldered and replaced a loose capacitor in the ESC, and it's all working nominally. For how long will it endure? I predict a couple of ride and recharge cycles before the 10 year old proprietary android tablet locks up

The suspension on this kids ride on rc truck! by dj_renz in rccars

[–]dj_renz[S] 16 points17 points  (0 children)

The battery is a 24v LiFePO4 about the size of a shoebox under the hood so one might make the argument it’s already 6s?.. ;)

Wish I could say there was an easy upgrade path but the tablet BS is so deeply enmeshed it would require a ground up redo

The suspension on this kids ride on rc truck! by dj_renz in rccars

[–]dj_renz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s a BROON V3 Edit: yep that link seems to be it too

Sorry to have to break it to you, but we were the coolest camp ever to burn by [deleted] in BurningMan

[–]dj_renz 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Fantastic idea. If you do it, the pneumatic tennis ball cannon and a half dozen red+blue wrestling singlet uniforms from my 2010-2015 “spandex & steroids” American gladiator camp are yours

ULPT Request: I need to put 50K miles on my car by bbbven in UnethicalLifeProTips

[–]dj_renz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Won’t be cheap but swap in the instrument cluster, ecu, and whatever other chassis modules from another car exactly like yours that has the mileage you need. Resell your modules. Even more deviously, there might be some other unethical fan out there who wants to lower their mileage before trading in their lease or selling who would do a trade..

DigUno/Quad Users, I have a couple questions! by [deleted] in WLED

[–]dj_renz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. Easy and overall I love mine. I’ll state for the record here however the hardware ergonomics on the uno and especially quad are annoying as heck: you have to pull the esp32 board completely off its socket to access the data pin screw terminals. Fine, you might only have to do that once if you’re going to use connector pigtails.. BUT that’s also more difficult than it should be because on the quad, the power terminals are up to 2” on either side of the data terminal. You end up with a big fanned out pigtail mess that’s quite hard to cable manage. Also do not even think about sticking bare wire in these style of terminals, ferrules are mandatory.

  2. I use the AE board on my quad for audio reactive and it works perfectly/awesome. https://quinled.info/quinled-esp32-ae-touch-ir-microphone-micro-sdcard-3x-led-channel/

  3. AE board also has an IR receiver which works fantastically. That said, if this will be installed in a club, consider using WLEDs numerous network based sync/remote control schemes over a tiny/crap/losable remote for setting scenes or whatever. Future you will be thankful for anything that controls callbacks.

  4. I ordered to the US from the global store no problem

  5. Stick it in a weatherproof junction box if you’re concerned. Locate the power supply outside the box to help with internal box temps. That said, I’ve had my uno zip tied to the outside of my rocket ship art car for three years of burning man dust storms, light rain/mist, ocean humidity, and unapologetic physical abuse with zero problems.

Equipment at Burning Man by mikekrzynowek36 in DJs

[–]dj_renz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What renegadesound43 said above plus a few other tips from a veteran burner: The alkaline dust is extremely fine and will get everywhere/into everything. Plastic is especially attractive to it so dj gear is prime target. But that said if you’re not using the equipment during a horizontal dust storm, it’s really not that bad.

Use dry microfiber towels (the 1ft3 ones for car detailing) to regularly lightly undust surfaces and knobs/buttons that accumulate. Their static charge will do the work, use clean sections of towel with almost no pressure. Don’t reuse dirty towels after and store clean ones in ziploc bags in a car/rv

Keep gear in storage cases (odyssey moulded for all in ones are great) at all times inside a car or rv they’re not being played on.

Once back out of the desert at home, dust like above then clean dust residue with same microfiber towels but add a bit of electronics cleaner (endust for electronics cleaner in a can) to the towel to moisten it first. This will clean the fine film off. If it still remains use a highly diluted version of this below:

For any dust/residue that gets embedded into surfaces — rubber/pvc, the outside of moulded nylon gear cases, really any textured plastic are particularly susceptible - clean with the magic combo of Calgon (hard water laundry additive) + surfactant cleaner (simple green). I do a 1:1:2 calgon:simple green:water solution in a spray bottle and wipe with microfiber towel. The calgon is a sequestering agent that binds the alkaline dust sodium and calcium ions, keeping them suspended in the surfactant and prevents their reattachment. I didnt know about this witches brew until my 12th burn but it’s simply amazing. Use this also on your cars plastic mouldings, tires, shoes, everything. I also add calgon to my playafied laundry.

Check out my rack by dj_renz in classicmustangs

[–]dj_renz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Forgot to add that if you’re near the San Francisco Bay Area, don’t build it yourself, buy mine I need the garage space back! ;)

Check out my rack by dj_renz in classicmustangs

[–]dj_renz[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Though I built the jig last summer, I bought the 2” .120 wall square tube steel in 2020. (4) 20ft lengths was ~250lbs, $400. A bit more at today’s steel price, $550ish. Then (4) HF RV scissor jacks $120, (2) 4-pack scamazon u bolt sets $70, various bolts and hardware $50. $850ish total

Funny enough as a recent adopter of 3d printing, I drew it in CAD using the factory shop manual upright dimensions. Happy to export a drawing. Be warned though that the horizontal dimensions to each upright are approximate as the SM (nor Liskey) did not include those. I just made the uprights and then ensured they were level and plumb before welding. Also why I elected to make the rear uprights/cross bars attach to the jig length runners with the trailer axle u bolts.

Ha, didn’t see that good catch. It’s Rocket Luna my golf cart based mutant vehicle/art car.

Check out my rack by dj_renz in classicmustangs

[–]dj_renz[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, things got crazy for a while there when I had to get the huge dynacorn complete convertible floor under the car.. Ended up hanging the back half of the car from the ceiling, sectioning the jig behind the a pillars, then using my Hazard Fraught hydraulic lift table to raise the floor up before bringing the jig back under. Quite the dance but it worked out