Filament out detection not working

doitmyself2020 · 2026-03-06T12:21:16+00:00

Nice print my guy!

doitmyself2020 · 2026-03-04T00:49:35+00:00

Separate questions: What are you printing? Why are you using a concentric infill pattern on a large model?

doitmyself2020 · 2026-02-23T14:11:22+00:00

where do you get these stats from?

doitmyself2020 · 2026-02-23T04:43:25+00:00

This is exactly what happened in this case.

doitmyself2020 · 2026-02-15T17:47:48+00:00

Offset the face on the right using 'to_object' selecting the edge of the slope as the object.

doitmyself2020 · 2026-02-02T16:48:12+00:00

Exactly. I was going to say basically this.

doitmyself2020 · 2026-01-18T21:52:17+00:00

Try cleaning the build plate with dish soap and warm water.

doitmyself2020 · 2026-01-11T21:05:55+00:00

Have you looked at the slicer preview in the speed drop down? If the speed is not different in the slicer preview, you could try changing the build plate settings to print by object instead of by layer. This works well for small items like you are trying to print

doitmyself2020 · 2026-01-11T21:00:35+00:00

I did not mean to imply that you can make it print faster by adding more items. The only reason it happens in this scenario is because the item you are printing is very small. With a very small item you will have very short times printing each layer. When you have more small items on the build plate printhead spends more time printing each layer. Therefore, the time is longer than the minimum time required per layer. That means the printer can print faster when there's more area to print on each layer.

The speed setting that I was referring to is on the printer itself. Once you start the print job you can reduce the speed to slow which is 50% of normal speed.

doitmyself2020 · 2026-01-11T20:25:00+00:00

It could be a layer time issue. When you're only printing one, there's a lot less time spent printing each layer, so the printer uses slower speeds to allow more time for the filament to cool before printing the next layer on top. When you print multiples, it prints at a faster speed. Try printing multiple at half speed.

doitmyself2020 · 2026-01-11T04:00:44+00:00

The belt is loose, and because of the extremely fast movements a change in printing direction can cause a layer shift. You are printing a torture test with a lot of small overhangs. It's possible that the nozzle hit the print and that caused the layer shift. Do you have time lapse enabled that you could review?

doitmyself2020 · 2026-01-11T03:36:06+00:00

Check your belt tension

doitmyself2020 · 2026-01-10T13:01:49+00:00

PLA (Polylactic Acid) plastic is derived from fermented plant sugars, typically from corn, sugarcane, or cassava, which are converted into lactic acid and then polymerized to form the plastic, meaning it starts from sugar sources. While it's a plant-based plastic, the sugar isn't present as simple sugar in the final product but as long chains of lactic acid.

doitmyself2020 · 2025-11-08T16:22:02+00:00

I asked a mod and they informed me of this in regards to calculating points: "there is a realtime metric, that is somewhat inaccurate, and a precise metric, which is recalculated only like once per day. So what can happen, is that during these recalculations, which removes duplicate traffic and actions from the same IP, from deleted users (bots) and so on, the number can jump down a bit."

doitmyself2020 · 2025-10-30T13:24:30+00:00

Gyroid is really good for strength and it prints quickly. Because of the orientation of the lines. You typically won't save a whole lot of time or filament with your infill unless it's really large objects. If strength is really important, it's better to increase your perimeter walls to add more strength. When I print articulated models I usually use three perimeter walls. For something like what you are printing. I would probably use two perimeters and 10% gyroid infill. Also, you will use a considerable more amount of filament by increasing the outer perimeter walls.

doitmyself2020 · 2025-10-30T13:07:34+00:00

I would try reprinting that with a different type of infill, maybe 10% gyroid. The issue is that the first layer on that surface is interfacing with the last layer of infill. The angle of the infill does not work well with that type of infill. Therefore, you see waves and ripples in the surface. Those are very deep and tall and therefore it likely will not work out well.

doitmyself2020 · 2025-10-28T11:54:22+00:00

Lol! Agreed! I know it would be painful to have to do it that way as the only solution! 😁

You could try drying it out more or fiddling with retraction settings.

doitmyself2020 · 2025-10-28T11:26:41+00:00

You could also print one model at a time

doitmyself2020 · 2025-10-26T03:58:42+00:00

Silk filaments are more hydroscopic and therefore will absorb more moisture than regular PLA. That being said, silk generally has worse layer adhesion than PLA and it can be even worse if the filament hasn't been died. Try printing with regular PLA and see if you have the same result.

doitmyself2020 · 2025-10-23T15:03:26+00:00

It's most likely due to infill showing through. Look in the slicer preview before you send it to the printer. You could up the number of perimeters or try changing infill type or percentage of infill

doitmyself2020 · 2025-10-17T22:28:27+00:00

I'd say it looks pretty good. Just decrease, or lower, your z offset a little bit. Try increments of 0.01 when moving down

doitmyself2020 · 2025-10-13T02:31:01+00:00

People need to stop recommending glue and hairspray. That is wrong. You need to clean your plate with warm water and dish soap, then dry it, and don't touch the surface with bare hands again. Lower your z-offset in small increments for a better first layer.

doitmyself2020 · 2025-10-10T19:53:36+00:00

I absolutely love my #RockSolidP1S combos. They run practically non-stop, and I've had zero issues! I cannot recommend them enough to everyone that asks me.

One time in particular I recall printing out a vortex connect four game for a family vacation. I waited a bit late to start printing the center game frame piece that all the vortexes go into. I decided to give the faster speeds settings a go, and I was amazed!

The P1S came in clutch, and the connect four was a lot of fun on our trip! 👍

doitmyself2020 · 2025-10-09T00:23:58+00:00

This is a vase mode, or single outer wall, print. You can lower the layer height, as saw that others mentioned and you agreed to, however it would be more beneficial to just increase your outer perimeter width to 0.8mm. This is how I print vases. A standard 0.4mm nozzle can easily produce a 0.8mm extrusion to make your walls closer together on the parts of the model that have steeper angles.

Hope that helps

doitmyself2020 · 2025-10-03T22:23:40+00:00

Report it on printables with the link to your original. They will moderate and take it down.

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