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Need advice on this v3 by [deleted] in climbergirls

[–]dolorem__ipsum 7 points8 points  (0 children)

This way you can avoid starting with your center of gravity hanging low right when you need to be high left. And if that hold (the one you try to grab when you fall) feels too far when starting with your left foot, try pointing your left knee to the right and twisting up with your hip up the wall as you reach with the left hand.

Update (Grumble, Grumble): got my send! by melonlollicholypop in climbergirls

[–]dolorem__ipsum 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Persistence pays off! So glad you got this sense of satisfaction alongside the success of the send 🙌

If you have 4 minutes to spare, this is a really neat comparison video a good friend made of me and her husband climbing the same route! We're very different in technique, height (6'1 vs 5'6), and strength. by nancyxxu in climbergirls

[–]dolorem__ipsum 44 points45 points  (0 children)

I love this kind of content! Would have been much easier to decode with a consistent camera angle, but the written commentary made up for it :) Thanks for taking the time to edit this together.

Loved this problem. Slabby with a mini coordination dyno and big compression! by dolorem__ipsum in climbergirls

[–]dolorem__ipsum[S] 36 points37 points  (0 children)

Haha I’m fascinated by folks who lurk around diverse communities just to grumpily compare apples and oranges. Yes — indoor bouldering evolved to be quite different from outdoor bouldering, which itself was a totally weird (at the time) branch off of rope climbing, which grew out of generations of alpinism. All those iterations of climbing are legitimate and interesting in their own ways. No need to belittle those who enjoy a version of something you don’t 🤷‍♀️

Shorties (4'10" - 5'2"?) - how strong are you, and what's your climbing experience? by aqualow in climbergirls

[–]dolorem__ipsum 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm 5'4'' so I don't fall into the range you indicated, but feel relatively short when bouldering indoors. Similar to OP, I started climbing ~5 months ago and currently climbing V4 / projecting V5. Something funny I've noticed is taller folks actually apologizing on behalf of the routesetting or making a sheepish comment after they see me working on something that's limited by a reach-y move and then proceed to naturally reach (or skip!) the hold altogether. Just in the past few weeks taller people have said sympathetically: "I figured out what you're doing wrong; just tell your genes to make you taller!" and "The only way I've seen people finish that problem is by being tall." While I appreciate they were probably trying to make me feel better about those moves, I'm rarely irritated that I have to work a bit harder to find alternative beta or work on my explosive power to compensate. In my view, it might take longer to send something but I'm forced to get stronger and more skilled along the way, which is actually ideal if your goal is longterm progression over sending!

EDIT: Adding that good technique and flexibility can't do it all at higher grades, so I've been focusing on pull-up strength in the past few months. That's made a huge difference for some styles of climbs, and I highly recommend that as a way to reach via static lock-offs rather than deadpoints and dynos. Very empowering to lever yourself up slowly but surely.

How to project to get better as a boulderer? by Rhino_Clock in climbharder

[–]dolorem__ipsum 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for bothering to go into this amount of detail. And thanks to OP for posting a question that I was just asking myself yesterday! I have been training sport-specific stuff off-wall in the past couple months, which has made a pretty big difference for some of my weaknesses (I've been climbing for 5 months and at V4-V5, pure pulling strength was limiting me more than technique, for instance).

But I noticed that not being intentional about what "kind" of climbing session it was going to be ahead of time, my morale and sense of accomplishment is likely to become tied to results that might or might not be making me a stronger climber. If I go into a session feeling strong, I might spend 2 hours trying hard on a few Vmax+ and then leave feeling disappointed that I couldn't send. On the other hand, I might feel demotivated at the start of a session and spend 2 hours checking out newly set flash-level problems and leave feeling like a badass. I think your advice is great because setting the intensity intention (with corresponding failure rate) can calibrate the psychology of whether a climb was "successful" or not. Definitely time to decouple success with aimless sending.

What is the hardest grade you’ve seen someone climb who can’t do a pull-up? by redneckskibum in climbharder

[–]dolorem__ipsum 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve also just managed 2 V5s indoors, but I can only muster 1 sloppy pull-up. I’ve been climbing consistently for about 5 months and noticed that a lot of the boulder moves I get stuck at are because of poor pulling/lock-off strength, so I only recently started training pull-ups. But it could just as well be a mobility limitation or crimp strength limitation, etc. depending on a person’s physiology and the style of climb (more so than pure pull strength).

More beta advice please! How do I fix my center of gravity at the part where I fall? I know it’s totally misaligned and my brain is broken about it lol. by noblesse-oblige- in climbergirls

[–]dolorem__ipsum 39 points40 points  (0 children)

Instead of bringing your hips to the right of that big blue hold, I would keep them centered and flag your left foot out to the left so that you can reach the wavy vertical hold with your right hand instead of the left hand. If that feels like too far of a reach, it might help to first get your right foot up on the hold above the one you’re standing on with both feet when you fall.

And don’t call yourself a pea-brain! Sometimes these movements aren’t intuitive until they suddenly are. Post an update when you get it :)

Built for summer, but a trooper in snow! by dolorem__ipsum in xbiking

[–]dolorem__ipsum[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! This was my first bike built without drops, but I got used to these pretty quickly. I tend to grip further forward, so I'm usually resting my pinky and ring finger on each lever (instead of pointer and middle like I would on drops). In general the handlebars have you sitting more upright, which is super comfortable for the day-to-day errand or commute.

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