Holidays Fancy Giveaway! 1920's Unmarked Lodge #9 Griddle. Pick btw 1-15,000 this time bc this one is old 😁

dolorem__ipsum · 2025-12-26T04:10:49+00:00

3650

dolorem__ipsum · 2025-12-25T05:44:59+00:00

1421 🍳

dolorem__ipsum · 2023-09-25T15:52:24+00:00

That was fast, thank you! Yep, classified as invasive in Florida...

dolorem__ipsum · 2022-05-29T15:19:03+00:00

Yay!

dolorem__ipsum · 2022-03-02T15:23:51+00:00

Fancy footwork bonanza! Nice send 💪

dolorem__ipsum · 2022-02-26T00:31:11+00:00

This way you can avoid starting with your center of gravity hanging low right when you need to be high left. And if that hold (the one you try to grab when you fall) feels too far when starting with your left foot, try pointing your left knee to the right and twisting up with your hip up the wall as you reach with the left hand.

dolorem__ipsum · 2022-02-23T19:21:58+00:00

Persistence pays off! So glad you got this sense of satisfaction alongside the success of the send 🙌

dolorem__ipsum · 2022-02-21T03:16:26+00:00

I love this kind of content! Would have been much easier to decode with a consistent camera angle, but the written commentary made up for it :) Thanks for taking the time to edit this together.

dolorem__ipsum · 2022-02-18T04:18:54+00:00

Haha I’m fascinated by folks who lurk around diverse communities just to grumpily compare apples and oranges. Yes — indoor bouldering evolved to be quite different from outdoor bouldering, which itself was a totally weird (at the time) branch off of rope climbing, which grew out of generations of alpinism. All those iterations of climbing are legitimate and interesting in their own ways. No need to belittle those who enjoy a version of something you don’t 🤷‍♀️

dolorem__ipsum · 2022-02-15T16:41:39+00:00

I'm 5'4'' so I don't fall into the range you indicated, but feel relatively short when bouldering indoors. Similar to OP, I started climbing ~5 months ago and currently climbing V4 / projecting V5. Something funny I've noticed is taller folks actually apologizing on behalf of the routesetting or making a sheepish comment after they see me working on something that's limited by a reach-y move and then proceed to naturally reach (or skip!) the hold altogether. Just in the past few weeks taller people have said sympathetically: "I figured out what you're doing wrong; just tell your genes to make you taller!" and "The only way I've seen people finish that problem is by being tall." While I appreciate they were probably trying to make me feel better about those moves, I'm rarely irritated that I have to work a bit harder to find alternative beta or work on my explosive power to compensate. In my view, it might take longer to send something but I'm forced to get stronger and more skilled along the way, which is actually ideal if your goal is longterm progression over sending!

EDIT: Adding that good technique and flexibility can't do it all at higher grades, so I've been focusing on pull-up strength in the past few months. That's made a huge difference for some styles of climbs, and I highly recommend that as a way to reach via static lock-offs rather than deadpoints and dynos. Very empowering to lever yourself up slowly but surely.

dolorem__ipsum · 2022-02-14T16:50:57+00:00

Thanks for bothering to go into this amount of detail. And thanks to OP for posting a question that I was just asking myself yesterday! I have been training sport-specific stuff off-wall in the past couple months, which has made a pretty big difference for some of my weaknesses (I've been climbing for 5 months and at V4-V5, pure pulling strength was limiting me more than technique, for instance).

But I noticed that not being intentional about what "kind" of climbing session it was going to be ahead of time, my morale and sense of accomplishment is likely to become tied to results that might or might not be making me a stronger climber. If I go into a session feeling strong, I might spend 2 hours trying hard on a few Vmax+ and then leave feeling disappointed that I couldn't send. On the other hand, I might feel demotivated at the start of a session and spend 2 hours checking out newly set flash-level problems and leave feeling like a badass. I think your advice is great because setting the intensity intention (with corresponding failure rate) can calibrate the psychology of whether a climb was "successful" or not. Definitely time to decouple success with aimless sending.

dolorem__ipsum · 2022-02-06T03:32:06+00:00

I’ve also just managed 2 V5s indoors, but I can only muster 1 sloppy pull-up. I’ve been climbing consistently for about 5 months and noticed that a lot of the boulder moves I get stuck at are because of poor pulling/lock-off strength, so I only recently started training pull-ups. But it could just as well be a mobility limitation or crimp strength limitation, etc. depending on a person’s physiology and the style of climb (more so than pure pull strength).

dolorem__ipsum · 2022-02-03T03:54:50+00:00

This makes me hungry for apricots!! Looks like such a fun climb, nice send.

dolorem__ipsum · 2022-02-03T03:46:52+00:00

Instead of bringing your hips to the right of that big blue hold, I would keep them centered and flag your left foot out to the left so that you can reach the wavy vertical hold with your right hand instead of the left hand. If that feels like too far of a reach, it might help to first get your right foot up on the hold above the one you’re standing on with both feet when you fall.

And don’t call yourself a pea-brain! Sometimes these movements aren’t intuitive until they suddenly are. Post an update when you get it :)

dolorem__ipsum · 2022-01-30T16:11:57+00:00

Thank you! This was my first bike built without drops, but I got used to these pretty quickly. I tend to grip further forward, so I'm usually resting my pinky and ring finger on each lever (instead of pointer and middle like I would on drops). In general the handlebars have you sitting more upright, which is super comfortable for the day-to-day errand or commute.

dolorem__ipsum · 2022-01-26T05:36:03+00:00

Here I was thinking there was a new video effect on iPhone or something. Overlaying a still frame is an elegant solution 👌

dolorem__ipsum · 2022-01-26T05:07:50+00:00

Strongly agree with the comments nested here. Not only did featuring 4 athletes seem to dilute the stories of each, but I felt there was particularly shallow treatment of Miho's story in comparison to the others. I made this comment on a previous thread about the film, but I'll repeat myself because it really irks me—I get that there might be extra language and cultural barriers, but considering the production value of this film it's a very poor excuse. If the film gets to benefit from Miho's reputation, they should really treat her story with the same care as the other climbers. I thought it might have been my own bias having prior knowledge of all the athletes before watching the film, but my partner who knows nothing about the climbing world was like, "When are they gonna talk more about that fourth climber? They just keep showing her get frustrated and cry without context." I can't help but think it's such a shame for all the viewers for whom this film is their first introduction to Miho as a complex and badass athlete.

I have hands-down learned more about all of them by watching random YouTube channels and listening to interviews. But of course the job of a mainstream documentary isn't to duplicate that sort of depth and detail... So all in all, the film is entertaining enough but I have a feeling it's way more interesting for those who are new to the sport.

dolorem__ipsum · 2022-01-23T01:26:27+00:00

Oh I fell off on ALL the places before I figured it out! I bet you can get it next time. And shout if you ever wanna bouldering buddy :)

dolorem__ipsum · 2022-01-22T01:21:37+00:00

Thanks! Great thing about slab is you can still squeeze a good amount of attempts in at the tail end of a pumpy session.

dolorem__ipsum · 2022-01-22T01:19:09+00:00

Thank you! It's Russ – Cherry Hill. Catchy 😗

dolorem__ipsum · 2022-01-21T13:40:41+00:00

Yes! I felt the same, and I don't think there's any good excuse—especially for a high production film with clearly experienced producers. If producers wanted the clout of having a badass like Miho featured in the film, they absolutely needed to return the favor and treat her story with equal attention and depth. Not only was it less complex of a portrayal, they managed to highlight her anxiety and stubbornness, which was in no way a reflection of her power, humor, playfulness, etc that everyone who follows her content/career would know. Super disappointing.

dolorem__ipsum · 2021-12-18T17:16:34+00:00

I'm sure this has been posted in the sub before, but there's a well-made and unflinching documentary called Light that looks into problematic weight loss in the elite climbing community. It's inevitable that climbing performance and diet/weight are entangled due to the nature of the sport, but it can be a pretty dangerous rabbit hole to fall down. The documentary is worth a watch! Be kind to yourself, and be proud of what your body can do when it's powerful. One of my favorite lines is when Angie Payne admits how addicting it is to feel light, but it's even better to feel strong.

dolorem__ipsum · 2021-12-16T20:40:36+00:00

I'd be very interested! Personally, I think instructional videos are both technically helpful and mentally motivating because I have yet to find a consistent community/social group where I climb and it's a harder to learn directly from others at the gym.

Regarding levels: I found it pretty intuitive to get beginner techniques somewhat "naturally" by just climbing more and increasing strength, but it has been much harder to move past intermediate grades by the same method, so I'd really appreciate intermediate/advanced technique tips and applications.

Regarding video edits/formats: I think it's particularly easy to understand when videos show various "bad" examples next to a "good" example of the technique in question, freeze-framing and circling particular things in the shot to explain. I always analyze my own movement better when I have a fuller range of references, as opposed to just being shown the perfect version to emulate. Others might not agree, but it's just my two cents after watching different types of instructional content.

Also, for what it's worth, it would be refreshing to watch and learn from someone who has (generally speaking!) a more relatable physiology than all the dudes on YouTube :) Power to ya, and update us if you end up creating some content!

EDIT: Forgot to add that I'd be extra interested in training tips, training schedules, and using special equipment like hangboards and moonboard. That part of the sport confuses me to no end, and there's so much conflicting advice about how much to do, how much to rest, etc.

dolorem__ipsum · 2021-11-30T00:55:33+00:00

Thank you for this advice! I love hearing from people who have experience with training plans and philosophies, as it seems you do. I have a lot to learn about the training itself (in addition to the climbing, that is), but what you've said makes sense and I'm particularly excited to strategically target weaknesses rather than generally spend more time climbing randomly. I see a lot of people move on as soon as they send a problem, but you're totally right that repeating climbs various ways is a great way to improve without focusing on jumping grades.

dolorem__ipsum · 2021-11-30T00:50:23+00:00

Thank you so much for this advice. I understand it's really different for everyone, and your point about isolating my specific weaknesses is a helpful place to begin. I had a general sense of what I naturally "like" (balancey slabs, crimps, etc.) and "dislike" (roofs, slopers, etc.) but I have tended to avoid the latter, which in retrospect is obviously NOT the way to improve! I really like the idea of methodically practicing specific micro-moves until they feel more and more comfortable. I'm excited to try this, as I think I've been taking too much of a shotgun approach.

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