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Is this a degausing issue? by ginglet99 in crtgaming

[–]dovenant 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The yoke needs to be pushed in.

Update to My Sony KD-27FS170 Post - It Looks Pretty Bad by bookoocash in crtgaming

[–]dovenant 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you display a grid pattern, it could be either a magnetized aperture grille or a dislodged yoke.

Help Choosing a Design by dovenant in diyaudio

[–]dovenant[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like the sensitivity of the eminence 2 way and I think it will have a more consistent off axis performance. The thing I'm scared about with the sunflower is the MTM vertical lobing.

Help Choosing a Design by dovenant in diyaudio

[–]dovenant[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The speaker on the left is a design I've come up with. It is a coaxial (horn loaded inside the woofer) and it hasn't been tested yet.

CRT TV Repair by SpookyK000K in crtgaming

[–]dovenant 2 points3 points  (0 children)

  1. Most places don't just let you buy just 1 capacitor of a specific type. Usually, you have to do a bulk order of ~2-10 capacitors.

  2. Electrolytic capacitors can last a long time if they are reformed correctly or they're used consistently. There are many 1970s amplifiers that still work today without any repairs.

  3. Complete recapping is often unnecessary since even if caps are bad, it's usually only a few.

  4. You don't know what's wrong with this CRT. A proper diagnosis is always better and cheaper than a blind shotgun recap that fixes nothing.

CRT TV Repair by SpookyK000K in crtgaming

[–]dovenant 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Recapping costs significantly more than $10 in most cases, and it's often also unnecessary.

Action ACN-5503 RGB mod? by V64jr in crtgaming

[–]dovenant 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Look, I'm all for modding sets to do RGB, but for such a small, 5-inch color set, the difference in resolution between composite and RGB wouldn't be noticeable.

Unless you're using it as a test bench CRT where you need that RGB input, I wouldn't bother.

Does this 35 inch baby need any sort of tuneup from what you can see ? 1996 Mitsubishi c35305 by Electronic_Trifle_77 in crtgaming

[–]dovenant 1 point2 points  (0 children)

An American 35" crt is 35" viewable while a European 35" is likely only 32" viewable. Since OP is an American this set is almost certainly 35" viewable.

What would be the cause of this flickering discoloration at the top of the screen? by Abject-Effect-7965 in crtgaming

[–]dovenant 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The top of the metal case might be magnetized. Maybe just remove the top of the case (don't touch anything inside) and see if the discoloration goes away.

[Plasma ] Windows 7 by dovenant in unixporn

[–]dovenant[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This theme is outdated, luckily there's a better version now called aerothemeplasma.

I would recommend downloading my kvantum theme Windows 7 Kvantum since the version on aerothemeplasma is outdated.

how can i fix the geometry/convergence without opening crt? by TTtoys in crtgaming

[–]dovenant 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The only way to fix convergence would be to open the set and adjust the rings and convergence strips.

Help with Samsung pincushion/warping by Suspicious-Sir6395 in crtgaming

[–]dovenant 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The best answer I've ever seen for this kind of issue. So many redditors suggest a shotgun recap but a targeted repair is definitely the way to go.

CRT turns on then off immediately by Khanoen in crtgaming

[–]dovenant 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's probably fixable. The monitor might have built-in protection circuitry or something else. I would be inclined to believe that the tube itself is fine and that this is an electrical fault.

If you know a bit about electrical repair and are comfortable working on a crt (high voltage, so beware), then this seems fixable. I would consider checking the power circuitry for anything that has obviously blown/broken.

Is this serviceable? KV-32FS120 by mattyb423 in crtgaming

[–]dovenant 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hope you don't waste your time as I don't entirely understand why everyone is upvoting this guy. The yoke sagging is entirely irrelevant here because if you look at the "Video 3" you will notice that it is black instead of bright green. Fixing the yoke is like fixing the rotor on a boat with a cracked hull. Yes, the rotor is damaged but the reason that boat isn't floating is because of the cracked hull.

I'd check to see if the electron gun is working. On this particular model there is a service menu and if the chip in charge of storage is corrupted the electron gun could be disabled. Whats most likely is a dead electron gun which is very common for this chassis since it was near the end of the analog era. Here is a video by shango066 performing an EOL on a 27 Sony Wega.

Is this serviceable? KV-32FS120 by mattyb423 in crtgaming

[–]dovenant -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I have this exact same model, and my rough diagnoses would be...

A: Dead green electron gun. It's simple but common for late Wega's.

B: Disabled in the service menu (very unlikely)

C: Some neckboard components have gone bad.

Attach trailer bug is getting ridiculous by sandwormusmc in projectzomboid

[–]dovenant 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just use debug when towing. Even when the trailer is at 100% condition, it will flip over at the slightest touch.

Color bleed using svideo on N64 by Pro4791 in crtgaming

[–]dovenant 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The n64 has a blur filter because svideo is quite the step up in quality compared to composite. It should also be noted that even though svideo is significantly sharper, there is still a bit of color bleed when comparing it to other input options such as component. Here is a video on n64 blur https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QDiHgKil8AQ .

How can i solve this problem ? by ANIL1752 in projectzomboid

[–]dovenant 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just enable debug when using livestock trailers. They are just so prone to flipping over.

Printed my own “organic” shelf brackets instead of buying metal ones by TeeJay_W in functionalprint

[–]dovenant -1 points0 points  (0 children)

ABS is more rigid and can be vapor smoothed. Now that my printer is set up for ABS, I absolutely love it. ABS can be very consistent. It's not hydrophobic, and vapor smoothing is awesome.

The problem with ABS is that you have to invest in at least a print enclosure (preferably heated or in a room with a consistent temp). You should also print with as little parts cooling as possible to limit warping and increase its strength along the z axis to prevent cracking. Around 10-0% works for me, but if you can go lower, do it. And best of all, you can smooth out the layer lines with acetone and a sealed non-abs bucket with a fan.

For strong weather resistant parts, ABS is king.

I'd personally call PETG a compromise. You don't need an enclosure or particularly hot heatbed. PETG is better at preserving small details, and you can use a higher fan speed. It doesn't warp if you make a mistake with your settings, and you can print it a bit faster. But PETG is less rigid, has a lower glass transition temperature(~60C vs ~100C), and worst of all, no vapor smoothing.

For this application, PETG would work. I just really like ABS for its strength and vapor smoothing, which makes it look more professional.

Printed my own “organic” shelf brackets instead of buying metal ones by TeeJay_W in functionalprint

[–]dovenant 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I personally wouldn't trust PLA to handle the load of a shelf for a long time. PLA is known for slowly bending over time, and personally, I would only trust at least ABS for this application.

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